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Day 7: A new day a new continent

I woke up just before our stop in Yekaterinburg home to the last moments of the last tsars life. Our stop was at 5:33 in the morning for 28 minutes. I had plenty of time to walk the length of the train. I then saw the train I almost took to Novosibirsk the Adler (Sochi) to Tomsk train arrive. After that I went back to bed after we left Yekaterinburg’s cell coverage zone for a few more hours. Once you get East of Yekaterinburg the line is fairly straight forward and uneventful. I wanted to have lunch in the diner to have those amazing fries again so I needed to hit an ATM at a longer stop.

At our next long stop of Tyumen which is carded at 20 minutes exactly I rushed over to the locomotive then crossed the tracks into the building. I love how Russian stations have over and underpasses yet most people just cross the track in the gauge. I ran into the station and found an ATM and rapidly worked on withdrawing enough money to have another meal in the diner. Then I crossed back over to my train shortly after another train cut the path off to the station but I safely made my train. When I got back on I had a new roommate bound for a stop after mine.

So I got to meet my new friend Anna and again the general consensus is that our two people are very similar and that if we would just meet each other we could solve the differences between our peoples. We both hope for a future where we are no longer pitted against each other. But as long as politicians like Mr. Putin need a bully in order to scare people into voting for them our countries will never truly be at peace.

What people don’t realize is how weak Mr. Putin is he needs an enemy in order to keep the people focused on him. That’s the same as any other strongman the theory is the strongman will save us and protect us. Then people vote for that strongman. It’s the same reason Putin is massing troops on the Ukrainian border right now it’s because he’s really weak. The economy is struggling, inflation is going up, wages are stagnant, Covid is out of control, and inequality is running rampant he needs a war or an enemy to keep his grip on power.

Honestly if we in the west would just ignore him he would probably lose power relatively rapidly. Anna went to sleep and remained that way for most of the day. I looked at the window which was mostly just west Siberia. While she slept I went to the diner with Ivan and had the same meal again which was again amazing. This time I had money so I didn’t have to rely on the kindness of strangers. After lunch I then went back to my room.

Our next stretch stop was a short five minute one at Ishim and I befriended the train managed a middle aged man. He was beyond impressed when I told him about my car the Pacific Park and he asked many detailed questions about it. And the running gear which really all of their attendants also ask as well. In Russia in winter it is the attendants job to clear the running gear of ice and snow build up so they have an interest in it.

After departing Ishim it was a few hours of normal scenery till our stretch stop at Omsk. Now Omsk is a special stop though because it’s one That RZD has arranged delivery services to for passengers to get food brought to the train. So naturally I want to experiment with all the services RZD offers so I can note it in my trip report. Now add the fact this is a 16 minute stop and I want to visit the locomotive as well. Instead of fighting the large amount of people waiting to get off on my cars vestibule I used the service cars vestibule and looked for my food.

The person delivering my food sent me a text and I located him. I then signed for my food and took off to the locomotive. When I was down by the locomotive I noticed a steam engine I quickly photographed before going back to my car to eat my dinner. I ordered beef shashlyk which is basically Russia’s version of BBQ with potato wedges. The food was really good especially when you count the handy cap of delivering it from its kitchen to a train station. Then the whole I must photograph the locomotive at every chance mentality.

After I ate Anna and I then shared photos of our families and our travels before bed. Tomorrow would be an early morning because my stop was carded at 6:01. When we went to bed it was just us in the room.
 
Day 8: The Pearl of Siberia

I woke up about an hour before my stop to find we gained an additional roommate somewhere in the middle of the night. I tried to quickly silence my alarm so it wouldn’t cause any difficulty for the others sleeping. I was told to come get my bag fifteen minutes before the arrival so I did that and figured I could get off at the vestibule next to my room so I waited there. For some reason all of the inner doors were locked after I claimed my bag. So after we arrived I had to fight the now busy aisle as everyone was getting off for their fifty minute nicotine fix.

As we pulled in I saw my good friend Ксения waiting on the platform for me in her winter coat that I nicknamed the Adorable Snow-woman. I put one bag on the platform and then went back for my second bag before going to hug her. Again a year or so in the making. And oh so good. I told her I wanted to walk up by the locomotive so we did and she took my photo with it. At some point during the night probably Bababinsk they changed locomotives. After that we took a taxi to my hotel so I could shower for the first time in days.

I was adamant if I’m going to be around a beautiful girl I must at least feel clean. So we went to my hotel the Marriot Novosibirsk which is where she recommended that I stay. She says it is the nicest hotel in town and I do agree that it is a lovely property. My large room had a great view over the NOVAT which is the largest theater in Russia. After taking my shower while she took a nap on the bed I felt clean and ready to go after the day.

She designed an amazingly detailed map of where she wanted to show me in her city. Literally so detailed it was almost planned to the minute. We started with the thought of let’s get breakfast. The city was still waking up so it felt almost like we had it to ourself. We went to People’s which was a very classy looking restaurant and bar. In the American theme but still with plenty of russian touches like a coat rack at every table, as well as waiters who don’t work for tips.

I had pancakes while I soaked in the ambiance of being with my good friend. After we ate breakfast we started our walking tour of the city. Ксения (Kseniya) put so much work into learning the history of her city. One of the perks of being with a local is you also get the local nicknames like the building nicknamed Batman because the top resembles Batman to a degree. When we left the restaurant we rounded the corner around the West Siberian Railway headquarters which is next to the restaurant. She took me to the Pobeda Cinema.

To her this theater has a personal history as her grandparents helped in the construction in 1925. It is by far one of the most beautiful movie theaters I’ve ever been in. I was a bit Leary to go inside without going to a movie because that’s somewhat weird. But I’m glad she dragged me in there. After that we went across a triangle shaped park over to the Pervayskiy Skver which is a park that was opened in 1932. The park is full of various sculptures that are tough to decide what they are. The best piece of art in the art park was a dumpster with the word “art” graffitied onto it. Now that’s Russian humor.

The fountains weren’t on which was a bit sad but it’s approaching winter so it makes sense. Fountains are something russians love. After that we went over to the Skver Geroyev Revolyutsii Park and we discussed race relations in America. Mainly trying to explain the various nuances of it. Remember on state television you only get the whataboutism Putin uses to deflect blame on him.

Then we crossed over to the next things Russian people love the Globus Theater. The building is shaped like a ship and was built in the 1980s. We strolled around the grounds and spent a lot of time in between sights talking about life. We then crossed back to the Krasnyy Prospekt

We stopped by one building where she showed me the before and after pictures of it. Most of the history she told me was coming straight from Wikipedia but what mattered was the attempt to give me the best experience. And I appreciate it. We walked by the Sobor Aleksandra Nevskogo church before turning East. We crossed over the four lane expressway in the middle of the city that was built on top of the Reka (River) Kamenka. The river is still down there just buried in a channel under the road. After that we went to the Park Imeni Kirova.

This park is one themed to Russian fairy tales and it is very nice. We were the only ones in the park and we stopped for a few minutes to talk on a park bench. She has been struggling with a desire to be loved at all times and is stuck in a loveless relationship she sees no future in. And my big piece of advise was “do what makes you happy because life is short. I can be dead in two seconds so I’m going to maximize those two seconds doing the things I love. After that she took me to a grocery store figuring that would be a big sight I guess.

Honestly the grocery store is exactly the same as it is in the USA laid out in a smaller footprint but it has all of the same items. I bought a little chocolate bar with the famous NOVAT on it. Then we walked over to the Public Library and posed for photos with the model of the leaning tower of Pisa. We didn’t go into the library but she did show me some photos of her previous visits. We then walked down the center median towards the Banks of the Ob River. We again stopped on a bench for another discussion about just living everything in the moment it was magical.

Then we went to the bank of the river via the pedestrian bridge you have to pass they a connivence store to reach. We then strolled a ways towards the Trans Siberian Bridge. Have you ever noticed when you really want to see a train one never shows up, but when you are running late to work they always show up. We ended up at a playground and it was like being young again. I mean yes I’m young in 27 and she’s 24 but it was like being 10 again just happily playing. There was a large swing/hammock type thing and the two of us got stuck in it which again felt perfect.

After that we eventually went to the Metro Station and went across another thing Novosibirsk is famous for the worlds longest covered bridge. Now the station we caught it at is equally interesting because it is half above ground on a bridge and half below ground in a tunnel. I also got to hear how her parents had worked on building the metro in the 1980s. Then we took the metro cross the river the approaches have plate glass windows that are hard to see out of. Then we plunged into a semi darkness once out over the Ob.

We then got off the metro at the stop on the opposite side of the bridge because I had to buy new shoes. We were planning on going to the theater and I was told that this is a formal event. And of course I left my dress shoes in the USA. So Ксения found me new shoes to wear for the theater. I got a great pair of shoes for like thirty dollars. After that it was time for lunch so we continued walking down to Karl Marx Square and went into a basement German restaurant.

Again it was magical spending time with a good friend and sharing a good meal. I had a schnitzel and learned really quickly that if I ordered something it meant she was taking a bit off of my plate. Again we just discussed life in general it was magical. After lunch she was tired so she went back to her house to take a nap for a few hours. So we came up with our logistics to figure out when we would meet back up.

We took the metro back across the Ob and went our separate ways. She gave me a list of places that I should see while she sleeps namely the centralny park. Instead I remembered when coming into Novosibirsk I saw a steam engine so I resolved to find it. So I crossed in front of a well lit NOVAT. I love that even in the beginning of the fringes of winter the flowers are still growing. Then I continued back down the down the Krasnyy Prospekt to the Sobor Aleksandra Nevskogo which is right next to the Pravaya Ob Station.
 
Now that I was trackside I could trace the track back to the steam engine. At some point I found a pedestrian crossing across the Six track transsiberian mainline so I figured I would watch one train. So I crossed the track to the Sunnyside of the trains. Well that turned into thirty minutes because once the crossing signal activated it stayed activated for about thirty minutes consecutively between freights, elektrichkas, and long distance trains. Eventually I got back across the main and continued till I found the 2-10-2. after leaving the steam engine I went over to the train station to photograph the building in daylight.

I actually made plans to meet my friend christina for coffee after work for her. So I had a little bit of time left. So I went back up to the novat. A beautiful thing of about Novosibirsk is all of the major axises of the city are revolved around culture the library, the NOVAT, and parks. So I walked over to the Centralny Park and it was amazing.

It wasn’t the park or the Russian knockoffs of the Big Apple or Wildcat roller coasters. It was the people around families with kids running around. Everyone in the us it seams wants to make the Russians look evil and I’m just standing in this park and they are literally acting just like we do. When you are here you realize they are literally just like us.

It was getting close to my time to visit christina so I started going to the address she sent and I actually went to the wrong place. I went to a residential block a few blocks away because that’s the address Apple Maps took me too. It took me five minutes to get over to the address and we had a great time. I also told her somewhat of the Predicament I was feeling in the middle of. With both Виктория and Ксения acting both in romantic ways. It definitely made for a comedy. I honestly feel like this could make a good movie.

Christina had previously lived in the USA in Denver so we had some great chats about that. She wants to move back to the USA and bring her new puppy with her as well. She was a J1 worker at Elitch Gardens in Denver a few years ago. Now she is a UX designer. If anyone knows of a job for her I will happily send them on. She speaks fluent English, Russian, and Chinese. Towards the end Ксения joined us and then Christina had to go home to walk her dog.

After that Ксения had a sight she wanted to take me to which turned out to be the same 2-10-2 I walked to earlier. She said she knows about it because her family drives that way to go to their dacha. She also told me I was very Russian because I had no problem climbing into it for a photo. Of course here I can always use the foreigner excuse. After that we went to what I would assume is the best restaurant in town SibirSibir. Of course I think that because of Seinfeld confusing Rochelle Rochelle which was a movie in the show with something so fancy it’s named twice.

The dinner was really nice and the atmosphere definitely fancy. I had Venison for dinner because I wanted some revenge with Bambi. Before I came to Russia I hit a deer with my car and he got away so this was my childish way of getting revenge. It was actually quite good I have never had deer before. I forget what she had but again it was a lovely evening. After that we met up with her friend Alexander and she had a night of Karaoke planned for me because I enjoy playing music. Now normally when I play I do it with my piano karaoke isn’t something I normally do.

Karaoke in Russia is amazing instead of a bar with a bunch of random strangers you so it in individual rooms with just your friends. We had such a good time with a mixture of American music and Russian music. It does surprise me though how little they know of some of the best American music like don’t stop believing, we’re not going to take it, and when a man loves a woman. Granted that one is a bit out of my range. Ксения enjoyed watching me sing because I’m a performer.

I’ve done theater before so I’m going to put the inflections in the voice and the movement to fit the song. That and I’ve actually played a few gigs with a band and I treat anything like a performance. My dad has always told me watching me play violin is entertaining because my facial expressions are amazing. Alexander and I really did a power duet of some Green Day from the American Idiot album.

After karaoke we told some ghost stories while walking by one of the most haunted buildings in Novosibirsk. Then they dropped me off. It took me a few minutes before I was allowed up into my room because my temperature was too low. Then I texted Ксения to find out what the plan would be for tomorrow.
 
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Me with Train No. 68 at Novosibirsk

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The view from my hotel room.

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Novosibirsk at Rush Hour

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The Globe Fountain

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Breakfast at People's

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Novosibirsk the pearl of Siberia

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Pobeda Theater

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Inside the Pobeda Theater

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Kseniya and I in front of the garden clock

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Novosibirsk art park
 
Day 9: At Home in Novosibirsk.

The night before she told me to come to her house at 1030 and to just take a taxi there. Well to tell you a secret I’m afraid of taxis from some horrible experiences in taxi cabs. So I left my hotel at 9:30 to walk to her house. Now I’m not going to give you instructions on how I got there because it’s like my house I don’t want people online finding me or friends. But I had my Gray American Airlines Designer Trash Bag that I was using to carry the many gifts for her and her family.

One thing about our trash bags they can carry a decent amount of weight because I was really annoyed with myself for how heavy it was. I retraced some of my steps from the day before like from Novat to the Globus and the area near the library. It really isn’t that bad of a walk a bit of downhill before the river/highway then up hill afterwards. I passed the S7 Airlines a fellow one world member Office Tower. After a bit I opted to take her street which is a few off the main drag once it started paralleling the main drag.

I was really surprised in the middle of the third largest city in the country to be on a dirt street. Now it was only dirt for one block before it was paved. I then kept walking till Apple Maps told me I reached her house. Well Apple Maps took me to the nearby Modern era high rise and I wandered around for a bit. In fact she lives in one small house surrounded by apartment High Rises. It’s really interesting walking into a small garden to a one story house surrounded on four sides by 17 story high rises.

I was ushered quickly into the house and met her mother Dr Elena after taking my shoes off and being led to wash my hands. The choice of water was cold or cold unless we wanted to turn the hot water heater on. After that I was welcomed to the kitchen where I was given breakfast and a drink. Her mother was very impressed with my Russian and such an amazing person. Probably the nicest person I’ve ever met. By far so sweet and appreciative of just small things.

They were both surprised that I walked from the hotel and I told them “I honestly feel much safer in Russia than the USA because I don’t feel like I’m going to get mugged or shot just walking down the street.” Then we talked about gun violence in America which was quite ironic given the timing. I was commenting how in the small city of Columbia which is the size of 34 percent of Novosibirsk, has roughly 3-4 killings per day on the news. They find that hard to believe.

After meeting Elena briefly it was time to go to the Planetarium with Ксения wanted to take me too. So we ordered a taxi cab from Yandex (Russian Google) which is like a merger of google, Uber, and grubhub. We took a nice scenic ride to the planetarium that went by the Novosibirsk Pedagogical University and then the Novosibirsk Coal Heating Plant which is a large brown coal power plant on the outskirts of town. The taxi ride took roughly 15 minutes and what was ironic is my mother texted me at the beginning of it and told me there was a shooting with a fatality on my street.

Not just in the greater Columbia metro but on my physical street. Apparently a man I met a few weeks prior had gotten in a drunken argument with his wife and he shot himself in the head. Talk about ironic timing. We then went inside and bought our tickets to the show. She wanted to see how her translation skills were so she translated the entire film about our solar system. They made an amazing film that really brought these far to reach planets alive to me.

I would have thought she went here as a child for school field trips but it didn’t open until 2012. We strolled around outside which has a lot of Soviet and Russian play equipment and again we are basically have the mentality of children. The thing about their play equipment though is most of it could be confused with gym equipment. Things that work various muscle groups.

I don’t know if it was because I was in front of an attractive girl or I’ve just built up the arm strength but I could actually do the monkey bars which were on a slope. It was probably a combination of both to be honest. Honestly the moments we spent climbing and playing around the play equipment and the walkways shaped as the solar system was just pure. Nothing else to it. It was good, clean, pure fun.

After that we grabbed another taxi cab and returned to the neighborhood near her house. The first stop was so I could buy flowers for her mother as that’s customary for a guest in Russia. Normally you do that first but I wasn’t planning on meeting Dr Elena so early. Then we went over to a bakery shop to get a cake for dessert because they didn’t have time to bake one.

Once we had the cake we stopped by a produce stand to grab a few items and even got a free lemon. We were buying extra items for Okroshka. After we had that it was recommended that I get Russian ice cream because it is the best in the world so we got some ice cream from a kiosk near a school near her house. Then we went back to her house.

After the customary washing of the hands I gave her mother the flowers which really surprised her. She was so grateful for them as well. Then it was time for them to make the Okroshka. I offered to help in the kitchen as is customary in my family. They would have none of that. By this time I was introduced to Petrovich her father who is a very kind soul. Again her entire family is lovely. While her mother and her worked on the last bits of our obed (lunch) her father showed me pictures of their vacations. He’s very proud of his daughter as was obvious when he showed me pictures of her on various beaches around the world.

Honestly I thought I was being tested a bit with that in a way. Trying not to be a true foamer because my god is she beautiful. After awhile it was time to eat our multi course meal. Her father poured some Crimean Wine and then told me “you are under sanctions now for enjoying wine of the forbidden fruit. For violating Ukrainian sovereignty”. It was good wine they are surprised I drink it so slow but for a railroader and a flight attendant I actually don’t drink. I will drink it to be social but I don’t like to drink.

Then it was time for the first course which was the Okroshka which is a cold soup made of sour cream, vinegar, salt, chopped dill, green onion, beef/ham/chicken, potatoes, hard boiled eggs, and cucumbers. I actually never have had soup before (I grew up under a rock) and I found it quite nice. Now the women said it wasn’t that good that it didn’t taste good. Her dad said it was good but I think that’s because he also knows what is good for him.

Next course was Kasha or buckwheat. It was very good but the next course was far better than it. Beef dumplings. Amazing absolutely amazing. Her mother realized I liked it so she kept adding it to my plate. This is a simple rule of the Russian house of you leave hungry you have done it wrong. The side to go with that was potato dumplings and again wonderful. And if you think we were done there you must be mistaken. Next came Russian pancakes with raspberry jam fresh from the dacha. Then after that I got gifts for me from her family to bring back to the USA.

And we still aren’t done with the meal we still have the cake we bought. We had great conversations but one thing that struck me was how they expect one day to lose their house so they can build another 17 story High rise in its place. Which I find a real shame because their house has so much character. Any building can be a house but this really is a home. One thing you can’t tell but each room was added on after the original structure. The first room was Ксения’s then after that came the kitchen and there is a step up between them. You step down to enter the living room/parents room.

If a house could have a song it would be “One Piece at a Time” by Johnny Cash. Truly the most appropriate song for this house. After lunch/dinner it was time to get ready for our show which was at 7. It was now 5:30. Her father and mother helped her change clothes into a beautiful dress. She truly did blow my socks off. Then it was time to take a cab to my hotel at 6:15. The only problem being there was horrid traffic at rush hour. So we got to my hotel at 6:45. She helped me change clothes and I was ready in under two minutes. Then we dashed across the street.
 
We went thru security to enter the theater and left our coats at the coat check. Then we hurried up the stairs to make sure we got there in time. As if you aren’t in the seat by the time the show starts you aren’t allowed in. Tonight we were going to Don Quixote the ballet. We were in the seat with a minute to spare and we went with her best friend Виктория. I’m great friends with Виктория if not best friends because we have so much in common.

I’ll be honest in act one I was dosing off a bit probably because of overeating. That and I don’t know the story and I don’t like ballet. We then spent our time during the intermission talking and I got to know Виктория more. We also explored the costumes on display in the cases. Then we watched the second act and Ксения struggled with staying awake. At the next intermission she napped while Виктория and I talked. What’s unique is her English doesn’t have a Russian accent but a British accent.

Midway thru the third act leaned over to the girls and ask them if they were noticing what I was. Now I’m sure by now you’ve figured out I’m as straight as they come. But there was his one male ballet performer who was incredibly well endowed and I struggled to tear my eyes away because it’s hard not to stare once you notice it. Yes they were watching it too. It became an inside joke between us.

During the curtain call I did manage to get a photo of the set which is the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. It’s amazing what a professional crew and a lot of money can make. After the show we took photos of us and got our coats. Then we walked back over to the same coffee shop I went to the day before. And then we talked about the show. Normally they don’t go out for dessert after a show but that’s the tradition with my theater friends. After that we walked back to my hotel and they waited for their taxi. And we made plans for the next day while they waited.
 
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The Highway built over the River

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Believe it or not this is her street a few blocks from her house.

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The Power Plant for Novosibirsk

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A small display outside the Planetarium

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Kseniya and I in a secret hiding spot she knew about inside the Planetarium

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The gym equipment masquerading as play equipment

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The Novosibirsk planetarium

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One of the many courses at lunch at her house.

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Victoria, Kseniya, and I at the NOVAT

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Look at the set of Don Quixote. And yes those are real arches with an entrance behind them.
 
Day 10: At home In Novosibirsk

Today would be my last day in what we joke is Novosi-What. It got that nickname because I was telling Ксения if she ever came to South Carolina and people asked where she is from they would question Novosi-What. As I doubt any americans can find Novosibirsk in a map. The plan for today was to visit the railway museum which is just a few miles away on the Turk-Sib Railway line. I was told be at the Elektrichka Station Rechnoy Vokzal which is by the metro bridge at ten to meet Ксения and Виктория to take he train over.

I’m a firm believer in being early so I left myself plenty of time to take the metro the two stations needed to be there. I was told to wait at the metro station and they didn’t come at ten. Turns out it’s because her father drove them over to the station. While I was waiting I saw a few special painted units though in the subway. Then we purchased our elkektrichka tickets. Виктория was heading home to her “small town” of Iskitm which has a larger population than most cities in my state. While we were waiting an inter-city train on the Turk Sib passed by then it was time for our Elektrichka which was made up of new equipment.

That actually disappointed Ксения as she wanted me to experience the real russia and the older equipment. I didn’t realize how long of a ride it was to the museum we were on the train for at least 25 minutes talking. It was a very full train and the conductor was doing vigorous mask enforcement on it. All too soon it was time for our stop so Ксения and I got up and got off. And watched the train go off. Then we crossed over the Turk Sib and went into the rail museum.

It was funny they gave me the price for a local and not the foreigner price. Almost everything in Russia has two prices one for Russians and one for foreigners. If you can speak Russian or keep your mouth shut you more than likely get the Russian price. The museum is a large six track affair with several pieces. It was a cold drizzle so we tried to keep the time as short as possible. I explained how steam locomotives work to her and we had a great time.

It’s amazing to me to see a car that looks like any others in the system to have a prison on the inside. And yes I shut the door on it so I could open a Russian trap door. When I worked on the railroad that was and still is my favorite part. We didn’t linger at the museum and managed to see everything they had on offer. Then we walked over to a local coffee shop and I had cinnamon rolls and a milkshake. The milkshake was significantly different than an American one. It wasn’t as cold and it had a really rich flavor. It was lovely.

After our little snack break it was time to catch our train back to the city. This train was made of older rolling stock and quite warm. Almost uncomfortable warm to be honest. I was happy to go back outside after that short train ride on the Turk-Sib. I need to make a point to ride the rest of the Turk-Sib at some point. Once we reached the town I talked her into getting lunch instead of taking a nap. So we went to a lovely Georgian Restaurant (not the georgia the crescent runs thru). The atmosphere was amazing though sitting out over the street.

I forget what I had however. I do know that the drink she had was far better than the one I ordered. One thing I love about Russia is the fact I can order a full service meal with an appetizer, an entre, dessert, and a drink all for about ten dollars. And it doesn’t tear my system up. American food always tears me up for some reason so I try to avoid eating out at all costs. After lunch she took the bus back to her house and I had some free time in Siberia. My friend christina recommended i go to the USSR Museum so I decided to walk over there.

The only problem is the museum ended up relocating and didn’t bother to update their website to tell anyone. So I ended up in an old wooden house from Pre Soviet Novosibirsk with nothing to see. I ended up being relatively close to that grade Crossing so I watched a train depart and I checked the status at the same time for our train No. 8H tonight. I watched some of the commuter rush before losing interest and exploring some more of the city. At some point I went to Burger King just for the wedges figuring if they had more sales maybe they would expand them to America.

I know that’s not how it works but I really want them to bring them over. Then I went to the metro and went back down to the same station I went to earlier so I could walk to her house. She told me not to come before 7 and it was 5. So I figured I could stop in the library and see what it was like. I waited a minute at the Elektrichka station to photograph the mob of commuters boarding the train before I walked up the street to the library. The fountains were somewhat on. However the library was closed as the security guard told me nicely. But I did see some lovely Soviet artwork on one of the walls. Then I slowly walked towards her house taking a different route.

I stopped for a minute to photograph the only streetcar line in this side of the Ob as the metro replaced most of them. I find this streetcar rally photogenic as these old and new cars rumble along track that if it was in the USA would be declared exempt not fit for passengers. Yet here this little cars rumble for a few commuters on decaying infrastructure. Now that’s the real russia according to my friends. I ended up at her house about thirty minutes early but I was content to stay outside for a bit. I don’t like showing early.

Either way her dad came along shortly and let me in so I ended up arriving early. I think Dr Elena woke her up I apologized for being early. Then her dad and I watched a bit of I believe a fast and furious movie on TV. While she made herself presentable. I mean she doesn’t have to try hard she would look good in a paper bag if you ask me. Then her and her mother prepared dinner for us and food for the train. Again if you leave a Russian house starving you’ve done it wrong. They found a juice I really like so they sent me the ingredients and instructions to make it myself.

Again items from their dacha. I think the food was mostly leftovers from the night before but it was again so so so so good. Her parents pulled some of the items from cold storage which is literally just a hole in the floor. Then it was time for Ксения to pack. I can’t judge because you’ve read enough of my trip reports to know I’ve been packing less than four hours before a trip before. I was shown the yearbooks from her school years. Then Ксения gave me her stamp and her coin collection to look at.

She has a fantastic coin collection with all sorts of unique coins. After spending more time with her and her family in their house it was time to go to the station and pick my stored luggage up from my hotel. Her father didn’t understand the big deal about the heated seats in their car. But the back seat has heated seats it’s absolutely amazing. I would love for my car to have heated seats period and here her car has them both in the front and back it’s amazing. It was much quicker driving to my hotel this time and I quickly reclaimed my luggage and loaded it in the car.

It was a short journey over to the parking lot for the train station and we all got out. And then went inside the station and looked for Виктория and her family as Виктория was joining us too. Her family drove her up to the city to catch our train. I got to be in both family photos at the train station. Ксения helped me purchase my spot for the luggage compartment and then we waited on the train as a merger of the two families. A few minutes before train time Alexander showed up.

Our train technically didn’t depart till a few minutes after midnight but it has an hour long dwell time. Our train was leaving on track four so we had to cross under the tracks to reach the platform. What makes that difficult is that russia isn’t a big believer in accessibility so if you have luggage or a wheel chair prepare to use the stairs. Vadim Виктория’s father grabbed my large bag and then carried it to the train.

By the time we reached the train it had already lost the power and they were shoving it down the platform some more with a switch engine. We were in car eight which was the first car. I took a really good atmospheric photo of the standing train I’m proud of. Vadim made it his job to carry my bag and get it in the luggage compartment which was so sweet of him because even speaking Russian it’s confusing. Then we boarded our car and Ксения’s parents came into our room with us and set it up for us.

That’s right in Russia people can see you off and get on the train to help you get settled in. Then I opened up one of Ксения’s gifts from me Cards Against Humanity and explained the rules and started dealing the cards. Yes I was playing a dirty card game with the Russians which was fantastic.

They all speak fluent English but even then it is difficult for them with some of the slang and pop culture references. So that made the game even more enjoyable for me.
 
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The Metro Bridge from the nearest station

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A Long Distance train on the Turk Sib

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Elektrichka at the Railway Museum Station

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The Railway Museum

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The Railway museum

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Kseniya in the cab of a Decapod

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A snow plow from the Soviet Railways

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Vintage cars on display

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Vintage diesel locomotives

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Vintage Electric locomotives
 
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The first Russian High Speed Train

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Elektrichka at the station for the railway museum

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Kseniya in the Georgian restaurant

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The dumpster in the art park that says art.

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Downtown Novosibirsk

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Elektrichka

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One of the older houses in Novosibirsk predating the Soviet era

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The Metro at rush hour. Note everyone is in masks

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The tram near her house

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Dinner at her house. Did I say you wouldn't leave hungry.
 
Day 11: Best Train Ride I’ve Ever Had

This is a continuation to day 10 because the train doesn’t depart till just after the start of a new day. We were already several rounds in to the game when the train slowly started moving. Russian train handling is far superior to anything in the USA. The only way you can tell you are moving is to really look out the window to be honest. Our game kept on going I actually texted my friends I normally play in the states to tell them about it. Виктория who I can affectionately call Russian me because we have the same personality was beating me at my own game.

What can I say I worked on the railroad and work currently in aviation I have a very dirty mind. We were having such a grand time I actually didn’t take advantage of a long stop at the end of the Tomsk branch. Now you know it’s rare when I miss a fresh air stop at any hour of the day. Eventually we got tired and went to bed.

In the Morning Ксения and the others were like how did you manage to sleep. They were like we tried talking to you two minutes after we laid down and you were gone like the dead. My answer is strictly sleep on trains for 12 years professionally it’s like being at home. They did not sleep as well as I did. But none the less the four of us had breakfast which was basically a smorgasbord of food. Between two Russian families we had a lot of food.

Again no need to go hungry because we had food covered. The scenery around Krasnoyarsk is more mountainous than most areas I had seen previously which made it much more exciting. There were brief bits of conversation between everyone when people weren’t dosing off. I wasn’t dosing off because I was well rested. At Krasnoyarsk Виктория had to do her Chinese lesson on her phone. I walked up to our power to find out they cut in four more cars ahead of us at some point overnight. And cut in way more cars behind the original four that originated in Omsk the train was 20 cars long at this point.

Then I walked with Alexander and Ксения to find alcohol we could bring so we left the station to determine there was nothing close by. I did manage to get some ice cream in the station though. Yes Russian ice cream is so good I will eat it despite it being in the 40s outside. Then we all regrouped on the platform and took a great group photo of all four of us before it was time to reboard. At some point after leaving Krasnoyarsk I wanted to go to the dining car because I’m a big fan of supporting the diners on all trains I ride.

By friends don’t go to the diner because they say it is too expensive. But none the less the girls join me to walk down to it. It was a very long ten car walk to the diner across first, second, and third class. Have to say third class is definitely strange to see and stinky. We reached the dining car and all we wanted was a drink and a bag of chips we were told to sit. And they brought three glasses, and a plate. They then poured the bottle into the glasses for each of us and then poured the bag of chips onto the fine China.

That’s night and day different than Amtrak. I remember when I was a kid we weren’t allowed to eat in the diner because all my family could afford was for me to get a kids meal in it and they thought I should have that experience. After we ate the chips we went back to the sanctuary that is our bedroom. Then we had lunch after awhile from our nice variety sent by our families. Potato wedges, chicken, dumplings, pancakes, you name it we had it. Plenty to chose from.

After that they attempted to nap some and I was just deep in thought. I told them i would wake them for the next stretch stop. I made one attempt for Ilanskaya which was a 17 minute stop. I wasn’t able to get to our locomotive as it was stopped off the platform. In the USA i might attempt it but not in a foreign country. None the less I enjoyed the fresh air stop in a small town. After that everybody was awake for awhile.

So the new mission was to help me with the one letter I mispronounce in Russian “Р” which is a rolling R sound in English. Виктория had me going with this Russian phrase.

Ехал Грека через реку
Видит Грека в реке рак
Сунул Грека руку в реку
Рак за руку Греку цап

The difference between her and my tutor though is Виктория puts soul in it. She makes it fun. She puts her heart in it. I had everyone laughing though because I majorly struggle with that one sound. But I’ve been practicing and it is getting better. Slowly but it is getting better. We are making major headway. Then for a bit Виктория and I listened to some music together on the top bunk for a bit. We’re both musicians with an old soul. I actually felt somewhat bad about it because Ксения was sitting all alone on the bottom.

My heart was split between talking to her and my Mile a minute conversation. And that’s a tough battle sometimes. I was having a great conversation that was really enjoyable. After that we had dinner on the bottom again and we opted to play another round of Cards Against Humanity. By the end of this game we had played all of the cards in the pack. After that it was time for truth or dare. Honestly I’m a bit of a child compared to some people like Ксения I thought I had a dirty mind because of the railroad and turns out I am nowhere close. Which is fine by me.

I learned so much about everyone and they learned about me too. I’ve never laughed so hard on the train before. And again the games with my friends caused me to miss not one but two stretch stops.

After awhile we eventually went to sleep probably well into the next day but still.
 
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Near Krasnoyarsk

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Train No. 8 at Krasnoyarsk

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Krasnoyarsk Station

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Downtown Krasnoyarsk

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Kseniya and I at Krasnoyarsk

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The four of us in Krasnoyarsk

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Rural Russia

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A rural village along the Transib

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A passing freight behind an ABA set

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A rainbow from the train
 
Day 12: Exploring Irkutsk.

Our stop was scheduled for 8:17 so we planned to be awake in the 7:00 am hour. Again another hard night of sleep for everyone but me. No surprise there. We had a quick breakfast and then started tearing down our room in preparation to detrain. We arrived on track 3 while the faster train No. 62M arrived on the track closest to the station. So we had to lug our items under the tracks which is a pain when you have two suitcases. None the less just a slight inconvenience. Then we walked around the station building to exit as you exit stations usually by a courtyard not by walking thru them.

Then we caught a KTM-5 street car on line one to our apartment we rented. We only went two stops down the line and it took awhile to get everyone paid up to the conductor in exact change. One thing about these old tram cars they’ve been soldiering on for several years and are quite tired and weary. Then we lugged our stuff off and the tram car kept on plodding down the track while we met the owner of the apartment for the key. We were staying in a quintessential soviet era apartment building.

Everyone took turns getting a shower in before anything else. While Виктория and I waited to see what the others wanted to do we watched John Oliver on Putin of which she spent most of her time rolling on the floor laughing. And she now follows him as well on YouTube. Then when the others decided they would rather sleep Виктория and I hate to waste a good day so we started walking. Our apartment was on the West Bank of the Angara River. So we started by walking straight towards the river.

And the two of us just talked about everything we want in life. Which is mostly the same things there is a reason I call her the female or Russian me. We got to the river as we were trying to determine which bridge to cross based on which was closer. So we paralleled the river and the Trans Siberian for a minute and then went back inland away from both to the Main Street. It is amazing talking about life with someone who sees things the same as you do. The decision was made on our route by my obscure knowledge of the children’s railways.

I knew the bridge on the south side had sidewalks from researching photo locations for the children’s railway. However the difficult part was finding where those sidewalks started. We couldn’t go down to the street level because it was a four lane divided highway and we figured that wasn’t a good plan. So we walked over to the ice skating rink and from there we found a set of stairs going up to the Akademichkiy Bridge. Once up on the bridge it was a beautiful but windy walk across.

We talked about our philosophy on life and how Ксения needed to grow up some and explore her world some more. Then we reached the spiral staircase that drops down onto an island the children’s railway runs on. So we descended that stair. Then we used the right of way for the Children’s Railway to head closer to the causeway/bridge into downtown. Honestly this little railroad maintained by children looks vastly superior to some lines in the USA that carry petrochemicals. At some point Виктория and I looked at each other and both said yeah I love you but I’m not attracted to you.

So at that moment Виктория became my new sister and honestly better than my real sister. We were having such a good time just strolling. We saw a Ferris wheel on the island so we’re like that sounds like fun so we went to do it. Totally random but that is literally the life both of us like. Spontaneous is key to our happiness. It was funny when walking with her the real Trans Siberian was almost always in view and it was incredibly active. After the Ferris wheel we walked over to the causeway and thru a park. We then walked up Karl Marx Ulitsa.

We passed the Irkutsk Academic Drama Theater where we would go on the next day. We then sat on a park bench under I V Lenin while we figured out plan out. Lucky for us Irkutsk anticipates tourists wanting to see the older sights so they designated a trail in which to follow. So we walked over to the Holy Cross Cathedral and then went inside. Of course before entering we did the orthodox trinity sign and went in. Then we lit 12 candles for all of our loved ones and for the world as a whole. Then we explored the church grounds for a bit.

They have a colony of feral cats that live on the grounds to keep the mice away. Then we walked down a pedestrian mall that is probably a new build but designed to look old that’s right next to the cathedral. I took some photos to show my friend Andrew whom Виктория is interested in. She jokingly called him her future husband. Not going to lie I was a bit jealous to a degree. Then we retraced our steps to the Lenin statue and turned on Karl Marx Ulitsa again. We continued just strolling down the sidewalks laughing and just having a great time.

For being very far into Asia by over a thousand miles it feels very European. Eventually we turned onto a pedestrian street that doesn’t have a name on google maps and it had a few street musicians we appreciated. Again it’s a very European feeling city. After doing a round trip on that street we walked over to the Circus on Proletarskaya Ulitsa. I think you can translate this to be honest. Then we found a small Soviet type canteen to eat at. It was really good and also really cheap the two of us ate for like $7 I can’t even eat for just myself in my airport for that. And that’s with the crew discount.

After that we walked over to the Nizhnaya Embankment passed a few orthodox churches. On the way to the Moscow City Gate on the river we stopped at a playground and swung for a few minutes. Again we’re basically children who are old enough to have money. We had a great time just playing there but the chair was flat unlike normal ones so it was quickly uncomfortable. Then we walked back to the Eternal Flame for the men who were lost in the Great Patriotic War (Second World War).

I’ll be honest at some point Ксения wanted us to come meet our tour guide for the next day but the two of us somewhat ignored her because we were just enjoying a spontaneous day. And that is a good thing. Eventually we decided we would actually go visit with Ксения and Alexander but it was more grudgingly. We went to meet them at the coffee shop and we missed meeting our guide. Then Ксения wanted to go out with me and Alexander to the sights I had been to before and Виктория wanted to buy shoes.

I probably should have went with her instead because I felt like a third wheel the whole time I was with them. And they were always walking ahead of me by a decent distance so I got mad and walked back to the apartment and didn’t tell them. Apparently it took them fifteen minutes to notice I was even missing and I laid into her for it. That spoiled the dynamic between us. But I was just a bit angry at being a third wheel.
 
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Train No. 62 at Irkutsk

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Victoria admiring the wooden carvings

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The view from the end of our street. Where is a train when you need one.

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The Ice Skating center

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Looking out over the River Towards Baikal

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The Irkutsk Children's Railway

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Maintained by children to a professional standard

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I am Home

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The Irkutsk Theater

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Downtown Irkutsk
 
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The new build old neighborhood

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Inside an orthodox church

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A beautiful church

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Downtown Irkutsk

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A pedestrian street that feels like Europe

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A church near the River

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Our country builds statues to glorify "Heroes" of wars. The Russians build them to glorify school teachers.

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Downtown Irkutsk

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The eternal flame for the fallen Russian soldiers
 
https://www.amtraktrains.com/attachments/msk-trams-2-jpg.25821/
The building with the star-topped tower is the main building of Moscow University.
From Wikipedia: Designed by Lev Rudnev[1] as the headquarters of Moscow State University, it is the tallest of seven Moscow skyscrapers in the Stalinist architectural style constructed between 1947 and 1953. It was until 1990 the tallest building in Europe;[2] it remains the tallest educational building in the world.[3]

Nice looking LRV in the foreground!
If that Stalin Gothic building is on or close to the walking path from Red Square via old Arabatskaya to Kievsky Voxal (station) then surely it is the Ukraina Hotel (it is now a Radisson Collection Hotel) on Kutusovski Prospekt and not the Moscow University, which is quite far from there outside the Third Ring Road. The two building look deceptively similar. Here is a photo of that building:

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It would be visible very close by if one crosses the river on the Ultista Borodonskiy Most (most likely if one walks down old Arabatskaya) and even closer if crossed on the Arabatskaya bridge.

I stayed in that hotel and took walks to both Kievsky station and to the Red Square along Arabatskaya. I even almost got mugged on one of my walks to the station in a pedestrian tunnel under Kutusovski Prospekt. Incidentally where the McDonalds across from Kievsky station is located there used to be an Ulki-Palki where I ate several times. Pretty good Russian fare for a reasonable price back then.

As you could surmise I spent a week in Moscow and walked around a lot. I stayed at what then was the Ukraina Hotel in that Stalin Gothic structure on the river overlooking the old White House, and a short walk from a lot of very interesting places.
 
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Day 13: Lake Baikal

Well this day felt a bit off because I spoiled the mood the night before with the third wheel and leading people on bit which is understandable I think to be mad about. So today by far was the worst day of the entire trip. We woke up early so we could meet our guide Valentina. I have no idea how Ксения found her but she did find her somehow.

So Valentina drove over in her small Chevy Volt to pick us up. And let me say five people in that small car is a real stretch. I offered to cram in the back with the others but they wouldn’t have any of that because I’m the guest. I personally didn’t have a problem with it then we took off down the roads and I have to say Russian roads really aren’t that bad and in many ways nicer than South Carolina. We stopped in the affluent outskirts of Irkutsk where the politicians live so Valentina could drop something off with her boyfriend who lives out that way.

Valentina speaks good English but it’s full of grammar errors and some poor word choices. The scary thing is she is an English teacher but she’s a fantastic guide. In the back they were trying to figure out how to buy tickets for the circum Baikal railway trip. To be honest because that was important to me I should have taken care of those logistics the day we booked our train and hotel. But I put my trust that Ксения would get it done. She didn’t get it done but this is life. Just another reason to return to Lake Baikal.

I learned there is such a thing as manners on the road. Where Americans have road rage Russians have manners to communicate. When someone passes you you thank them by flashing your lights and they say your welcome by tapping the brake lights. In the USA the only Symbol i know is the middle Finger. Once outside of Irkutsk the road to Listyanka becomes a two lane road. Relatively hilly, and a bit winding but well maintained. I actually thought for a moment about what Americans must picture when they think about this and my thought was they really don’t see this side of Russian they see what is in the news like the tanks, the warplanes, and Putin. But they don’t see the nature or it’s real people.

We pulled off the road as it was starting to snow at an open air museum of historical buildings. They opened a historical museum of buildings from all around Siberia to tell the story of the land before. So they’ve actually damned the only river that flows out from Lake Baikal a few times and these buildings mostly came from what was flooded when the dams were built. It’s an interesting museum.

It was a bit icy so I moved a lot more carefully than everyone else because I’m carrying tons of camera equipment. There was one old fashioned two person swing and again were all basically children so we did that. I did it with Виктория because I figured she was the least upset with me. Actually it was Alexander who was least upset because he understood completely. It was a very fun thing but very hard to stop when the ground around is icy.

One thing that is surprising is there are TPs just like you would expect of the American Indian tribes here in Baikal. Then we walked to the shore of the river and Alexander and I tried to see who could throw further. Honestly that’s a tie but it was a lot of fun. We then stopped in the gift shop with items made by local artisans in the area. I didn’t have any rubbles so I didn’t buy anything but that’s perfectly fine. After we left there we drove to the shores of Lake Baikal at Listyanka where we stopped in the village for lunch.

Obviously we tried the local speciality which is fish only indigenous to Baikal. Personally I don’t like fish so I just ate some really good home made bread. Then we walked and put our feet in Baikal. It is said that if you wash your feet on this beach all your problems will go away and I can say I definitely saw a small thawing in. Виктория. I know this is weird but the one friendship i was most interested in saving us Виктория because there is a deep connection between us. Something that is definitely special and to lose her would upset me greatly.

Don’t get me wrong I would be hurt to lose Ксения but not like if I lost Виктория. Alexander I wouldn’t care one way or another to be quite Frank. After that we drove over to the Baikal museum to look at the seals. So Baikal also has its own native species of seal that is only found in Baikal and this museum has two of them. While we visited one was practicing for the olympics swimming back and forth the same route each lap. The other was an entertainer who was practicing for the circus.

He was up against the glass posing for photos with people and looked to be quite cheery. Then after that we went to the ski lift. Now to get to it you drive across a lumber yard which is different but then you take it up. It was very cold I rode up with Valentina and Виктория on one cart and we talked about education in America and how people need to be exposed to more of their world. Once up at the top we started on the trail to the overlook over Baikal. Then in true Russian fashion we left the icy trail to walk on the rain soaked mud on a cliff to get better photos of the lake.

I only slipped on the mud once which I’m proud of. It was treacherous but it was worth the photo. Going up and down may I recommend using the various bushes and branches to hold a grip to because it’s a long long way down. The chairlift back down was exceptionally cold. And if Виктория wouldn’t have been as mad with me I would have so hugged her for the additional body heat she could provide. Once down we piled back into what I affectionally call the clown car and we drove to a restaurant on the outskirts to have tea and dessert.

Remember russians are big tea drinkers and believe in dessert. I had ice cream despite it being cold outside because Russian ice cream is so good. My friends say it’s because Russian dairy is just a good. Then we went back outside to the car and drove back to Irkutsk. An uneventful drive but no one believes me when I say Russian roads are better than South Carolina Roads. They don’t have as many holes. On the way back we took the road over the dam back to Irkutsk.

Then it was time to rapidly get dressed for the theater. Tonight we would see Cholstomer by Lev Tolstoy. It’s a rather interesting show I’ll describe in a bit. So we got dressed and took a cab I was appalled to hear they even get free veterinary care for their animals as well as free health care for people. The cost it costs to spay or neuter a pet in the USA in my town is like $300 for a simple surgery. In Russia you can do it for $4. Quite a big difference.

Then we went into the theater Виктория and I had a box while Ксения and Alexander were somewhere near the stage. At this point it was very obvious those two were dating and Виктория and I looked like a couple that has kinda done it all. But it didn’t take long for her to start thawing. So we made idle chit chat till the show started. Mostly me trying to figure out how to right the atmosphere between everybody. And my god the show was so profound and I don’t think I’ve ever had a show that has made me think so much.

And it’s a show without any words at all. I mean I benefited too because Виктория had read the book so she knew the basic plot. The basic plot is the lead character Kholstomer is a horse who grows up on a farm as the outcast because he is different. And because of that he is treated poorly by the other horses. He the. Falls in love with a mare but she leaves him for the others because he is different. He can’t get over that and becomes a bitter old horse dragging a cross across the stage to symbolize the load from the emotional and psychological damage dealt to him.

He then finds a good owner whom he loves and will do anything to please. The owner falls in love with a woman who only loves the owner for his money and leaves him penniless. And the horse is hurt when his owner sells him to make some more money to attempt to win her back. The ultimate Act of betrayal to his friend.

In a few words the whole show is about how the damage from the past holds you back and how abandonment feels. It’s really a hard play to put into words I highly just recommend go watch it.

At the end of the show my mind was completely in full motion just thinking back to what I had just seen and Виктория and I met back up with the others. They thought it was a good show but Ксения was mostly looking at the dancing part of it. The part that would interest her the most. Meanwhile Виктория and I were going a mile a minute about how profound the show actually was. We think they missed out on a great show. I’ve never cried in a show before but this one had both Виктория and I going. After the show we walked over to the new build old style building area with plenty of bars and restaurants. Then we went into Syberia for dinner. There was a bit of confusion getting a table. And I thought we were going to leave after using the restroom to find somewhere else.

But somehow we had a table and we discussed everything. Alexander wasn’t pleased his beer was warm so he sent it back to get a cold one. We had a lovely dinner I forgot what I had but it was good. The shocking part is i paid for all four of us and with an appetizer, alcohol, entrees, and desert in a nice classy Gastropub about 40 dollars. Russia is amazing. After that we watched some random fireworks before taking a taxi back to our apartment. Виктория and I spent a lot of time talking and she actually was the one to clue me into the other Виктория’s feelings for me.

I promised Виктория I would make her some American soul food so I made plans for the next night. Then we went to bed after talking for several hours about life. By the end of this she had completely thawed.
 
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The four of us on the shore of the River

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Victoria and I

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A rural Russian road no different than South Carolina

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Boats on Lake Baikal

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Lake Baikal

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Me and the fun seal

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Me and Lake Baikal

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Lake Baikal from above

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The theater in Irkutsk on the inside
 
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