The Big Nowhere: San Antonio Alpine/ Part Ii

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Bob Dylan

50+ Year Amtrak Rider
AU Supporting Member
Joined
May 31, 2009
Messages
26,335
Location
Austin Texas
I was asleep after the Switching, woke up @ 245pm as we rolled out Right on Time.

Woke up @ the Del Rio Stop, again Right on Time,Quick Pit Stop, Gentlemen of a Certainn Age understand, then back to Sleep till 7am when the Breakfast Announcement was made.

After cleaning up and walking the Train to fully Wake-up, headed for the Diner for Breakfast.

The consist was somewhat unusual for this Train, the Regular 2 P-42s, No Baggage Car,
the #1 Sleeper ( a Rehab I, no Transdorm),the Diner( a Regular Diner, not a CCC ),a Sightseer Lounge 🥰, 3 Coaches( 1 a Coach/ Bag) and the #421 Sleeper on the end where I was in Room #4.

All the Cars were really Clean, and in Good Shape! Everyone had Masks on.( there were Regular announcements ).

The 3 Coaches had about 15-20 in each Car, plenty of Seats, there were folks traveling together sharing seats.

The #421 Sleeper had the Family and H Bedrooms empty, and Bedroom B was the only Unoccupied Room Upstairs.

I ordered Coffee, Apple Juice and the Mix and Match Continental Breskfast.( Yogurt,Rice Krispies,Blue Berry Muffin which was Warm and came with Real Butter.

The Diner was fairly Full, ( only Half being used, with 2 LSAs, one taking Orders/ Serving, 1 heatin the Food up downstairs) )but if you wanted to sit by yourself, you could..

After finishing, I got a cup of Coffee and another Apple Juice to go( the LSAs earned their tips, great service!)

Went to the Sightseer Lounge( No Cell Service out in the Big Nowhere for Sprint/T-Mobile, others told me the same for other Carriers.

I talked with a couple of folks from my Car as we rolled along on a Brightning, but still Hazy/Smokey Morning.( theres been Fires in Big Bend)

My SCA, Andrea, an Amtrsk Veteranon this Route( 14+ Years)put up my bed, put Fresh Water in the Room andxshen I returned she was Downstairs Cleaning the Restrooms and Shower!😎

I talked with her awhile, shes First Rate, for those of you who know Leo from the Silver Trains, that Good! Amtrak will hear from me!

We did a Quickiestopped in the Semi-Ghost town of Sanderson, 1 off, None boarded.

As someone had posted here, they've built a " Station" to replace the torn down old SP one.

Between Sanderson and Marathon , we went into the Hole for 3 Long UP Freights, but they were moving Fast, so soon we got the Signal we hauled the Mail into Alpine artiving Right on Time!

There is a nice New ADA Platform @ the Station, but it's not Long enough for the consist, so we did 2 Spots, one for the Crew Change ( T&E) and One for us on the Tail.

I thanked my SCA, tipped her well, and was surprised to see about 20 people Detrain with their stuff.

Tourist season has begun in the Big Bend, lots of Van's, Mom and Pop Rent Cars, and people picking up in their Trucks and Cars.

It was a Nice 61 Degrees, with the Sun starting to burn through, going to 80 today, Clear and 50s tonight! 😍

I went across the Highway to check out the Holland Hotel,an old Railroad Hotel, where I have stayed Several times, and and plan to when I bring my Grandaughter on a Star Party Trip to Ft Davis this Summer.( Driving so we have a Car).

The Really good Resturant is Closed, its Cashless, but the Lobby Bar is Open in the Evening.Theres plenty of eating places around close to the Hotel and Station, from Fast Food, to Mom and Pops, to White Table Cloth. Lots of Pubs and Clubs too, Alpine is a College Town( Sul Ross State U.)

Alpine is followng the Governors
COVID Guidelines, which pretty much leaves it up to Businesses to decide their policies, I used lots of folks in Masks, most places require them !( I'm wearing my UT Longhorn Mask, Hook 'em.

Having internet here allows me to see that as of Noon, ( CDT)#2/#422 is 44 Minutes Late. in Benson,AZ, but it's a long way from El Paso to here and their OTP for the Eastbound Sunset hasnt been good lately due to Freight congestion.😟

Time to head for Lunch, I'm gonna try a Food Truck called "Cow Dog" that gets raves on Line, will decide on Dinner later this evening, probably good West Tex Mexican Food or a Steak!😁

I'll finish this up tomorrow once I'm back in Central Texas since there wont be any internet during the nights journey.

Hoping #2/#422 rolls in close to on time this evening!😷😉
 
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Great report! When did they build the platform at Alpine? I didn't think it was new.

And the consist you stated has been the usual for the Sunset/Eagle for many months now. :(
 
My Day in Alpine: Part III

Had a Wonderful Lunch @ the "Cow Dog" Food Truck a couple of Blocks from the Station.

A Really Huge Chili Dog with all the Trimmings, more than I could eat with a Diet Coke, $6!!( Good as any Dog I've had in Chicago or New York and I like their Dogs!)

Once the Sun came out, it warmed up to 80, but with a Nice Breeze off the Mountains and Low Humidity it was Nice out!

I wondered around Downtown Checking out the City, to see if old places were still there( for the most Part yes, but lots of Businesses have changed hands.)

One of the Highlites for me was visiting the Place I was Born, it was a Drs. office and Hospital ,and he and his family lived in the House next door. ( one of his daughters, Betsy Wright was born the same week as me, and ended up being Bill Clinton's Chief of Staff when he was Gov of Arkansas)

It is now an Air B-N- B thst rents Rooms to tourists, well kept, and reasonable.( Prices in Alpine are rising in now that Tourists are starting to visit, theres nothing decent under $100 a Night in Season!)

Talked with the owner, shes very nice and is the Grandaughter of the Dr that delivered me! Small World!😉

Lots of New Building going on too as Retirees and the Wealthy move to the Mountains.Lots of Tourists also, mostly Couples and Student types around, No kids.

Alpine has finally gone Modern and installed a Traffic Light by the Station @ Holland and 5th, the old 4 Way Stops signs are still there!

Alpine has a Promition called "Merchants and Music" on Thursday Evenings on the Street between Holland and Ave E with the traffic closed off.

There are various Venders selling lots of Homemade stuff,and Arts and Crafts, Food Trucks, the Stores stay Open Late and a Stage with a "Name Band" plays some from Austin which is still slowly recovering the hit to its Music scene.

Masks are mandatory, except in the eating and drinking areas, and Social Distancing is practiced.

I had a couple of Good Fajita Tacos on Corn, and a Topo Chico.and a Delicious Pan Dulce.

Number #2/#22 has been running on time since leaving El Paso and is carded to get here right on time @ 8:30pm.😎

The Unstaffed old SP Station ( now a UP District HQs) is Open 9am-9pm Except Fridays, or till the Train leaves.The UP and Amtrak Crews use the Station and keep it up Nicely.

It has AC/Heat, Clean Bathrooms and "old timey Wooden Benches" in the Waiting Room. Nice place to wait after a Long Day! 😍Even has a Lending Library with Books, Mags, Tourist info etc.

When #2/#422 Rolls in I'm going to put up my stuff, take a Shower, and kick back to read myself to Sleep, theres nothing to see in the Dark except the Beautiful Stary,Stary Sky,( The Milky Way!🤩)and I'm not hungry,so will skip the Diner.

Final Chapter tomorrow when we get back to Central Texas where theres Cell Service!

Looking forward to the Highball Call, I surely will return to this Gem of a Place!😊
 
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Interesting and detailed write up. I was sorry to hear the Holland Hotel restaurant was closed. Is that due to COVID-19? On a western auto trip a few years ago we had the best meal there of our entire very long trip.
Yep, the Bar is Open, and theres plenty of eating places from Fast Food to White Table Cloth! COVID really did a number on Alpine and the Big Bend last Winter!

The Lady told me theyll Open back since they have that nice Patio, but things will never be exactly the same again!

I too have had several Memorable Meals there!

Lots of Mom and Pops have gone under here and all over!
 
Just when I was finishing up the last Chapter, wouldn't you know it, the UP Dispatchers in Omaha put a 200 Car Stacker ahead of #2/#422 which was stopped on the outskirts of Alpine !🤬

Two my all time Favorite Conductors from the Eagle, one a 40 year Veteran,and the other a 14 Year hand ,plus a Trainee A/C, were waiting on the Platform with about 30 people waiting to board, had already scanned tickets.

It took the Stacker 30 minutes to clear the Single Main thru town.



Finally the Sunset chugged into the Station 40 minutes down, did the first spot to do the Crew Change, then pulled up so the we could board on the Tail end of the Consist.

There were Plain clothes LE with Dogs going up and down the Platform,nothing was found.

We boarded,were given our Seat Checks and told to pick out a Seat wherever 2 were Vacant.

I found #21/#22 which didn't have a Light above the Aisle, almost in the Middle if the Car!( Forgot to mention I changed my Paid ticket from a Roomette to Coach, saved $195 for the roughly 12 Hour trip, I'll see how I sleep, it's been awhile ( Years!) since I did Overnight in Coach.

Unpacked,set up my Camp and went to use the Restroom and walk the Traiin to stretch, Last Chance till San Antonio!

The Bathrooms were clean, the Car was in fairly good shape, and about 30 people were aboard. The other 3 Coaches had about the same, with several Familiejs and Couples sitting together.

The consist was 2 P-42s, a SLI for the Crew Car, the #2 Slerper was a SL II, all seemed clean and in good shape.

Then the Diner,the Sightseer Lounge, the 3 Coaches ( 1 a Bag Dorm, no Bag Car)and the #422 Sleeper on the Rear, a Rehab I.

We Highballed out about 945pm, 1 Hour Late, but the Trainee Asst. Conductor told us chances were good we'd get to SA close to on time!( Sure)

Its a really Dark night, Clear and Cooling off fast, the Stars are Unbelievable!

Going to read a bit before sleep, my Normal routine, so to all a Good Night and stay Safe!😷😉


,
 
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My daughter and I flew to San Antonio in 2018, rented a car and journeyed to Alpine as our hub. Went to Ft. Davis, Marfa (Jetts Grill was awesome), & Terlingua. Then onto Albuquerque, Santa Fe, Gallup, Flagstaff, Grand Canyon, hit Sedona on way to Phoenix for the flight home. Great trip, but must say I yearn to go back to Alpine and your write-up has stirred me. Just fell in love with that area. Trying to talk my wife into taking a trip there, just SA & West Texas. Hope to take the train this time. OP, how close are car rentals to the Alpine Station/Holland? Anyone ever cross the border at Presidio/Ojinaga?
 
My daughter and I flew to San Antonio in 2018, rented a car and journeyed to Alpine as our hub. Went to Ft. Davis, Marfa (Jetts Grill was awesome), & Terlingua. Then onto Albuquerque, Santa Fe, Gallup, Flagstaff, Grand Canyon, hit Sedona on way to Phoenix for the flight home. Great trip, but must say I yearn to go back to Alpine and your write-up has stirred me. Just fell in love with that area. Trying to talk my wife into taking a trip there, just SA & West Texas. Hope to take the train this time. OP, how close are car rentals to the Alpine Station/Holland? Anyone ever cross the border at Presidio/Ojinaga?
Thanks, Wonderful Area for a,Get-a-Way.Great idea!

The Rental Cars in Alpine are Local, no National Chains here.

Alpine Auto Rental.com,
They meet the Trains @ the Station.

I havent rented myself but friends who have recommend them highly.

There are others, Google is your friend.

As for Hotels, Alpine is getting back on its feet Tourist Wise, and in Season it's a very popular "Base".

Decent Hotels and Motels tend to charge over $100 a Night, but Air B-B and Mom and Pops( older Cabins and Motels) are available all over town.

Id book as far ahead as you can, it can be really busy on Weekends and during Special Events.

Week days are less busy, but lots of Places close on Mondays and Tuesdays during slower periods.
 
Jim, I don't know how many years ago I asked you about Alpine. Thought it would be a good round trip without staying overnight. Now I wish I had done it because there is more to see there than I thought. It's not a small town with one stop sign. This morning I checked youtube and there is a lot there! Murals, Saturday farmer's market, stores. It looks like a nice town.
 
Thanks, Wonderful Area for a,Get-a-Way.Great idea!

The Rental Cars in Alpine are Local, no National Chains here.

Alpine Auto Rental.com,
They meet the Trains @ the Station.

I havent rented myself but friends who have recommend them highly.

There are others, Google is your friend.

As for Hotels, Alpine is getting back on its feet Tourist Wise, and in Season it's a very popular "Base".

Decent Hotels and Motels tend to charge over $100 a Night, but Air B-B and Mom and Pops( older Cabins and Motels) are available all over town.

Id book as far ahead as you can, it can be really busy on Weekends and during Special Events.

Week days are less busy, but lots of Places close on Mondays and Tuesdays during slower periods.
Thanks for the reply. Like I said, I'd like to take the train, but not in the dark. I loved leaving San Antonio and see the landscape change, and crossing the Pecos area was just stunning. That's the biggest drawback. Also we'd like to cross into Mexico either at Del Rio or Presidio, and I'll need to look into how to do that with a rental car, and if it's safe to cross into those border towns.
 
Also we'd like to cross into Mexico either at Del Rio or Presidio, and I'll need to look into how to do that with a rental car, and if it's safe to cross into those border towns.
When I was around out there, I crossed over from Del Rio to Ciudad Acuna. I'm not sure I'd do it now, I've heard some hair-raising tales about cartel activity. And some of the places that catered to tourists, like Crosby's have closed. When I did it, though, I never took a car across. There are parking lots on the American side, no need to bother with the hassle of taking a car into Mexico. And it's a no-no for rental cars unless you buy special Mexican auto insurance. Just walk across the bridge and walk around in the downtown area, which is interesting and walkable. Bring change for the bridge tolls, and your passport for border formalities on the way back.
 
Thanks for the reply. Like I said, I'd like to take the train, but not in the dark. I loved leaving San Antonio and see the landscape change, and crossing the Pecos area was just stunning. That's the biggest drawback. Also we'd like to cross into Mexico either at Del Rio or Presidio, and I'll need to look into how to do that with a rental car, and if it's safe to cross into those border towns.
The Border is closed right now except for Essential Services and Commerce.

You can fly to/ from certain Mexican Cities,but no land crossings are allowed except by foot for Medical Purposes😟( Passport is required)

Ojinaga,across from Presidio,isnt that interesting, and is a Drug Cartel controlled town,and the Crossing to Cd. Lacuna, across from Del Rio, is a few miles away from downtown., as the other poster said, not much going on now for tourists.

I'd stay on the US side, plenty to see and do in the Big Bend Country as you know.


That's a shame as visiting in Boquillos across from Big Bend National Park via Boat across the Rio Grande, and then riding on a Donkey ( you can also walk) up the Hill to the tiny town for Lunch and Minor shopping during " Normal" times is a blast.

The calling times for the Sunset in Alpine are OK, but as said most of the trip heading West is in the Dark.
 
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When I was around out there, I crossed over from Del Rio to Ciudad Acuna. I'm not sure I'd do it now, I've heard some hair-raising tales about cartel activity. And some of the places that catered to tourists, like Crosby's have closed. When I did it, though, I never took a car across. There are parking lots on the American side, no need to bother with the hassle of taking a car into Mexico. And it's a no-no for rental cars unless you buy special Mexican auto insurance. Just walk across the bridge and walk around in the downtown area, which is interesting and walkable. Bring change for the bridge tolls, and your passport for border formalities on the way back.
The Border is closed right now except for Essential Services and Commerce.

You can fly to/ from certain Mexican Cities,but no land crossings are allowed except by foot for Medical Purposes😟( Passport is required)

Ojinaga,across from Presidio,isnt that interesting, and is a Drug Cartel controlled town,and the Crossing to Cd. Lacuna, across from Del Rio, is a few miles away from downtown., as the other poster said, not much going on now for tourists.

I'd stay on the US side, plenty to see and do in the Big Bend Country as you know.


That's a shame as visiting in Boquillos across from Big Bend National Park via Boat across the Rio Grande, and then riding on a Donkey ( you can also walk) up the Hill to the tiny town for Lunch and Minor shopping during " Normal" times is a blast.

The calling times for the Sunset in Alpine are OK, but as said most of the trip heading West is in the Dark.
Thank you both good to know. I guess for now the future visit across the border will be by air into Mexico City.
 
@KSOC

We crossed the US-Mexico border twice by foot, at Del Rio about 6 or 7 years ago to spend a day in Acuna, Mexico, then 2 years ago at Tijuana heading north into the US, again by foot.
Both times during daylight, both times apart from being really interesting or more than that fascinating experiences especially Tijuana, we didn't feel any anxiety but stayed fully aware as I'm sure stuff was happening just out of sight.
Our short experience of non tourist Mexico (excluding Tijuana) has encouraged us to want to spend more time there. We rarely found a Mexican who didn't have a ready smile or was willing to help or offer good advice.

Obviously there is bad stuff happening in Mexico but just didn't get the feel that it was aimed at tourists.
 
Thank you both good to know. I guess for now the future visit across the border will be by air into Mexico City.
You can go to the Beach Resorts if that's your thing, I used to love going to them before they turned Wonderful Fishing Villsges into a Vegas/Disney/South Beach.

Mexico City is still a fascinating Place, but Guadalajara is nice too. I love the Mountsin towns where there arent too many gringos and Ricos! Lol
 
Obviously there is bad stuff happening in Mexico but just didn't get the feel that it was aimed at tourists.
If you bring flesh to a gun fight it doesn't really matter if they're aiming at you specifically. Mexico was my first foreign country and it was always a little dangerous but at some point the violence increased beyond my comfort level.
 
@KSOC

We crossed the US-Mexico border twice by foot, at Del Rio about 6 or 7 years ago to spend a day in Acuna, Mexico, then 2 years ago at Tijuana heading north into the US, again by foot.
Both times during daylight, both times apart from being really interesting or more than that fascinating experiences especially Tijuana, we didn't feel any anxiety but stayed fully aware as I'm sure stuff was happening just out of sight.
Our short experience of non tourist Mexico (excluding Tijuana) has encouraged us to want to spend more time there. We rarely found a Mexican who didn't have a ready smile or was willing to help or offer good advice.

Obviously there is bad stuff happening in Mexico but just didn't get the feel that it was aimed at tourists.
Valid points Jaime, but away from the Border Cities,Mega Resorts and the Cartel Warsin the Cities is what I know yall Love,as do I.😍
 
You can go to the Beach Resorts if that's your thing, I used to love going to them before they turned Wonderful Fishing Villsges into a Vegas/Disney/South Beach.

Mexico City is still a fascinating Place, but Guadalajara is nice too. I love the Mountsin towns where there arent too many gringos and Ricos! Lol
I was in Piedras Negras back in 1968 as a kid. I haven't left the country since. Wife and I retired late 2019, got passports just in time for Covid. We just got both of our shots and are ready to travel. I'm the train nut, she likes planes. Mexico's culture and history have always fascinated me, and of course the food. Not in to going to Mexico's beaches for the reasons you stated.
 
Homeward Bound on the Eagle:The Final Chapter

After getting to sleep( restless, on and off)I kept waking up every time we stopped ( Lots of Freights @ nite on this Route), woke up @ the Del Rio Stop, we were still and hour down @230am


The Coach was extremely Cold, best advice to Coach riders is to take a Light Blanket and Travel Pillow and Layer up.

Went back to sleep till we stopped on the edge of San Antonio for Feights, still 1 Hour Down on a Rainy, Windy, Dreary Day as the City Lights reflected off the Mist and Fog/Haze.

Took the usual Route into the SA Station, stopped by the Alamo Dome while the Conductors lined the Switches .( Hand thrown here)

We finally pulled in to the busy Station with Yard and Station Workers bustling around serving 2 LD Trains departing soon ( #2 on to NOL after Switching our Cars off, and the Texas Eagle #22/#422, my Train to Austin.

After de-training a large amount of passengers, we started the Switching Moves to get our Coach and Sleeper into the Eagle consist.

Once again, we passed the Sleeper snd Coach that is kept @ the Station on Ground Power.

With the Power off, it warmed up in the Coach as we started, bumped,started stopped etc.

The yard Crew put the #422 Sleeper @ the Front of #22s Condist,zand our Coach on.the Tail.

The Sunset was still there, and when we had finished all the Tests and Station Work, and everyone was boarded,we backed out of the Station @ 700AM, a long way as usual, got the Signal and headed out for Austin on the usual Route.( I see the Sunset left about an Hour Late)

I cleaned up, decided to skip eating since I will be home in 2 Hours, and took my usual morning walk thru the Train.

The consist was the usual COVID one with a P-42, a SLI Sleeper in place of a Transdorm,the CCC where lots of people were eating Breakast from the Sleepers ,and there was a waiting Line for Cafe Service on the other end, there being 2 LSAs aboard today.

There were only 2 Coaches,about 1/3 Full, but the Conductor ( an old Friend from the Eagle)told me that they would Fill up to their 50% Limit by Dallas.(this ends May 23, all Seats to be Sold).He said about 20 Rooms were Occupied in the 2 Sleepers with more getting on up the Line.

I returned to my Seat, relaxed as we rolled thru New Brsunfles @ a steady Clip, made the brief San Marco's stop and then Highballed towards Austin, fastest Ivd seen this Trsin here in years!( No Freights in Sight!)

We slowed for the Crossing of Lady Birs Lake on the 1881 Bridge, came around the Bend on a Drizzly, Blah Day ( Rain later and a 20 degree Cool down!😍)

Stopped right on the Number @931am, had made up the Hour!!

I said goodbye to my friend the Conductor, and the friendly Austin Agent busy unloading baggage on the Coach Bag, got in my Car and headed for home through the usual Austin traffic! Hit the stops @ Home @ 10:05am!!!

I'm tired, and sore from the Coach ride, I realize I'm too Old for Overnights in Coach, even the 12 Hour ones!

But it was a great trip, now to get to Work planning the Next one!😁
 
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