A train ride around Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar

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Jun 13, 2008
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Not really a full blown trip report, but I thought I would take a few minutes to write up a little something about a rail journey I took last week. As I keep chasing new countries to visit the list starts to include more and more places I know less and less about. Myanmar would fall into that category of a place I had some vague ideas about, an easy to use E-Visa and good airfares. That’s pretty much a recipe for me to pay a visit to a new place. If visiting temples isn’t something that you want to do from dawn to dusk you find that Myanmar runs a tad short on actual tourist sites.

I was aware that they had a long distance rail network that connected certain parts of the country, with my timeframe a long haul journey wasn’t in the cards, but after arrival I learned they offer suburban trains including a circle line that takes about 3 hours. What better way to spend a morning in Yangon then puttering around on a train slated to travel at an average speed of 10 miles an hour.

The ticket set me back the equivalent of $0.17 so it was the cheapest train ticket I ever purchased in Asia edging out a $0.80 ticket I had purchased in Malaysia. Although it still couldn’t touch my mere $0.06 subway fare in Kiev. A record I don’t think can be broken. Before I landed in Yangon I thought I had a pretty good handle on traveling through Southeast Asia, but Yangon was proving to be a little more challenging. I have ridden trains in Thailand, Indonesia, Vietnam, Malaysia, and Singapore and been to the only train station in Laos. So I figured it would be pretty straightforward here in Myanmar.

Armed with a piece of paper I had the hotel write up for me asking for a ticket on the Circle Line train in the local language I started the 20 minute walk to Yangon Central Railway station. The station is quite large, and oddly reminded me somewhat of Philadelphia 30th Street Station. Not that they were similar in their designs, but rather their functions. Both Yangon Central and 30th Street are divided into two areas; one serving intercity trains while the other serves the commuter operation. Once I found the ticket agent it was a pretty painless process he simply wrote the time of the train on the same piece of paper I had slipped him. He also spoke some English, and told me to have a seat and wait he’d come get me and put me on the right train.

I spent about 20 minutes on the platform waiting for my 9:35AM departure. All kinds of trains rolled in during that time. Some of the rolling stock looked well past its prime. There were absolutely no announcements of any type everyone just seemed to know what train was what. I was really starting to wonder what I was going to get myself into. I knew that expecting an air-conditioned coach was certainly out of the question. I guess in a sense I was rather looking forward to open windows and vestibules to look out from. At around 9:30 the ticket agent appeared and told 2 Australians and me that we needed track 4. We were standing on the platform for track 7 so of course no thought was paid by the employee in gesturing that we should simply walk over 3 active tracks to where we needed to be.

Two minutes later a train pulled up, and fortunately or maybe unfortunately it was by far in the best shape I had seen in the station. In some ways I was hoping to ride along on a wooden seat in a well-worn railcar. What was waiting in front of us was a set of diesel multiple units from Japan. I would guess the cars were originally made in the 1960s. Clearly they had a taken on a second life here in Myanmar. While it was still not air conditioned there were fans along the ceiling, and padded bench seating. It was a pretty stylish ride for a mere 17 cents. From here I’ll let the pictures do the talking. All told the loop took a little of over three hours. I spent about an hour standing pretty much behind the engineer with the front door open it was quite a view, and a refreshing breeze. Although after a while we got caught in a downpour, so I retreated back to a seat.

It was a pretty interesting experience, and I am glad that I made the journey. It seems like good practice for the trains that run through the Sri Lankan countryside that I hope to catch a ride on soon.

Anyway I will let my pictures do the talking for me.

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Thanks for taking a look. I hope you enjoyed! Feel free to ask any questions!
 
Nice photos. Passenger seating seems to be in good condition. Love the font on the train ticket. Do you have any other photos from beyond the train such as hotels, shops, or restaurants? Thanks for posting.
 
Wow, I am in awe of your globetrotting adventures, well done!

I visited Burma back in 1984, and remember having to run around that golden Shwedagon Temple due to the burning heat of the white marble floor on my bare feet!

I will take up your offer of asking some questions. :)

Did you just fly there and back, or was it part of a longer trip to the region? How long were you in Rangoon?

Do you have any tips on a hotel? (I have been thinking of Including a visit to Mayanmar with my next Indian train adventure.)

Is English widely spoken, as it is in India? It was in 1983, but maybe not so much now after years of semi- isolation from tourists?

What was the temperature and humidity at this time of year, and did you need to take anti-malarial medications, etc.?

Thanks again for a most interesting read !

Cheers,

Ed.
 
Nice photos. Passenger seating seems to be in good condition. Love the font on the train ticket. Do you have any other photos from beyond the train such as hotels, shops, or restaurants? Thanks for posting.

I actually didn't take a lot of pictures. Although I am surprised that I don't have any of my hotel room. It's usually the first thing that I walk into a hotel room is snap a couple pictures. On the streets I saw exactly 6 other Western people in 3 days. I just felt weird taking out my phone and snapping away. These were people simply going about their normal lives I didn't want to to make it seem like strange animals in a zoo. I guess in other places they see more tourists so they must be more used to people taking pictures of their baskets of fruit or small street side restaurant. While I was in Myanmar I felt like I was already drawing far to much attention to myself for simply being there. I tried to take photos as selectively as I could. At the train station I was a little more open about taking pictures since I had intentions of writing this report. I honestly have stopped worrying about taking pictures everywhere I go. Writing up full reports over the course of a 10 day trip is an incredible amount of work, and as for my friends and family they for the most part have burned out of looking at endless pictures of all the odd places I have been putting myself in lately. I guess the more I travel the more I realize how little anyone else cares about what kind of adventure you had.

Wow, I am in awe of your globetrotting adventures, well done!

I visited Burma back in 1984, and remember having to run around that golden Shwedagon Temple due to the burning heat of the white marble floor on my bare feet!

I will take up your offer of asking some questions. :)

Did you just fly there and back, or was it part of a longer trip to the region? How long were you in Rangoon?

Do you have any tips on a hotel? (I have been thinking of Including a visit to Mayanmar with my next Indian train adventure.)

Is English widely spoken, as it is in India? It was in 1983, but maybe not so much now after years of semi- isolation from tourists?

What was the temperature and humidity at this time of year, and did you need to take anti-malarial medications, etc.?

Thanks again for a most interesting read !

Cheers,

Ed.

I was in Myanmar for 3 days 2 nights. it was a part of 7 day swing over to Asia where I spent the remaining days checking off the last few parts of Vietnam I had yet to visit. This trip was really more for me to tie a bow around the whole of Southeast Asia. I have now visited each country in the region and in some cases done some extensive overland travel through them. Yes there are some parts of Thailand that I still am missing, but I think on a whole I will be taking a break from that part of the world.

I can only imagine what it was like in the 1980s there although I guess it was before all of the revolutions. I would say that English was not very widely spoken. Although I ended up staying in a hotel in Chinatown so the front desk staff there seemed more ready to help me in Mandarin then in English. I would recommend where I stayed though. It was close to a place called Barbecue street where the whole street was lined with restaurants that spilled out from their storefronts on to the sidewalks. I would say it was pretty safe to eat at some of the places, but certainly take a moment to take a look at all your options. There is one KFC in the whole country and it was walking distance from the hotel, so if you can't handle the street food scene there was an option. I didn't see any real traditional restaurants or even really any Chinese food places in Chinatown itself.

For a hotel there was a Shangri-La so if you have to enjoy a 5 star property it was certainly possible. There was also a Novtel but I wouldn't recommend it because it was kind off by itself near a lot of Western offices, so good if you were there for work but lousy if you were playing tourist. Having met you and also reading about some of your other adventures though I think you would where I stayed pretty satisfactory. I stayed at the [SIZE=17.6px]Daw Htay Hotel where a room could be had for around 30USD a night. It had a private bathroom en-suite and ice cold air conditioning. It also included breakfast on the roof which provided some decent views of the city. I would stay again and for a non chain hotel in SE Asia I found it to be about in the middle of the road. Not quite up to the FM7 Hotel in Jakarta that was in a similar price range but certainly better then what a 30USD hotel room looks like in Vientiane Laos. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=17.6px]It was stifling hot and extremely humid while I was there. Much worse then in Vietnam. I would say it was around 100 F each day and 100% humidity. I changed my shirt 3 times a day! With quick rinses in the shower between. Taxi ride from the Airport to the hotel was around 10 bucks no meters so everything had to be negotiated street side. I had my hotel write down where I wanted to go and also what kind of train ticket I needed, so I think that helped me out. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=17.6px]Overall I would say that I am glad it was the last new place I saw in Southeast Asia, because it was certainly the most intense and the least Westernized part of Asia I had encountered. I imagine it was a lot like India will be when I visit. The whole economy appeared to exist simply on the sidewalks. It was an interesting place, but I didn't see hoards of tourists overrunning it yet. [/SIZE]
 
India is much more intense and Modernized but with all the Third World conditions mixed in for spice!

Most people that go really like it and want to return!

Eddie and jis,being a native, are the India go to persons on this Forum, I'm sure they'll gladly share tips and info with you before you go!
 
Thank you so much for the info. :)

Although writing up travels can be time consuming, many folk love to read the reports. I like nothing better than reading travel writing, so stimulating.

I remember reading your N. Korean report with amazement at what you had achieved. I can see that friends and family can get over familiar with our trips, and my family are the same, but I feel that if you could publish some stuff on wider "travel interest" internet sites, as well as the train forums, you would be rewarded with high readership.

The "tourist season" for that part of the world, India and Mayanmar, seems to be Oct-Feb, to experience more comfortable weather, so your recent adventure is all the more admirable as an off season jaunt... Possibly the reason too for lack of other western tourists.

Certainly if you choose to visit India I can assist to the limit of my past experiences, but somehow I feel you are pretty good at sorting your travel stuff out !

Thanks again,

Ed.
 
Thank you so much for the info. :)

Although writing up travels can be time consuming, many folk love to read the reports. I like nothing better than reading travel writing, so stimulating.

I remember reading your N. Korean report with amazement at what you had achieved. I can see that friends and family can get over familiar with our trips, and my family are the same, but I feel that if you could publish some stuff on wider "travel interest" internet sites, as well as the train forums, you would be rewarded with high readership.

The "tourist season" for that part of the world, India and Mayanmar, seems to be Oct-Feb, to experience more comfortable weather, so your recent adventure is all the more admirable as an off season jaunt... Possibly the reason too for lack of other western tourists.

Certainly if you choose to visit India I can assist to the limit of my past experiences, but somehow I feel you are pretty good at sorting your travel stuff out !

Thanks again,

Ed.
Yeah I admit I didn't really check out when the best time to go would be. Fares and timing were correct here, so that is where I headed. Although I guess hitting a high tourist season can give you a different experience I think these days I find myself further afield I don't have to worry about a "rush" certainly a visit to Paris over the next weeks would probably leave one with a much different experience then a visit in January.

Yeah I realize there are plenty of different sites and forums I could contribute to, but it's not really about overall raw readership. Sometimes I feel like writing something up is appropriate, and some trips I make sure I power through the whole report. I would say there are probably 50 pages of half finished reports that are just sitting on my hard drive.

This short write up was just a way I try and give back here to AU. I have learned so much here including the joys of traveling just for travelings sake. Although last year I did knock off another few thousand miles of travel on Amtrak trains I don't ride them nearly as frequently as I used to be able to contribute anything useful. I figured this small rail journey was a slightly unique experience that I could write up quickly, and possibly introduce something a little different to the forum. I know after 8 years of browsing here I had not realized just how many trains run through Myanmar everyday. I honestly don't think you spend 17 cents a better way :D

Yeah I'm not sure how I will handle planning my trip through India other then it will not be nearly enough time on the ground to do justice for a place that is so large and home to so many people. Just hopefully spend around a week there, and take back as much culture as I can. Although lately I have been leaning more and more toward going to Sri Lanka first the more I read about traveling there the more interested I become.
 
I like being in "foreign places", and experiencing different ways of life... Somehow, a train ride can allow a traveller to mix and observe "real life" without needing an excuse to be there.

I try to add a few items to my reports which may help anyone with similar travel plans, such as prices, where to get tickets, etc.

I have not been to Sri Lanka, but it seems a popular place. I believe it is less populated, and possibly more relaxing than India? One issue with India is the problem of getting train tickets. Trains can get fully sold out within minutes of the tickets becoming available, and that is 4 months ahead!

The other difficulty is getting "registered" with Indian Railways to buy internet tickets. It requires an Indian mobile phone number to register. There are ways round this via email, but it is not always smooth. Info on "man in seat 61" under India explains it.

Buying a railpass is another option, there may be a USA agent, there is one in London? The agent can avail of "tourist quota" reservations with the railpass.

Please let me know if you do decide to visit India.

Cheers,

Ed.
 
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You should enjoy a trip to Sri Lanka.

The railway staff are terrific: there are British and Australian-style semaphore signals everywhere.

The main line from Colombo to Kandy is great: tunnels, a summit, signal boxes galore where the staff will invite you in, numerous crosses with other trains.

The branch line from Kandy to Matale is fantastic: a true branch operation. The main line to Badulla carries many tourists including foreigners.

The Galle line has seaside running.

There are Edmonson cardboard tickets regularly in use with proper ticket racks at booking offices.

Mainland Chinese have probably been pushing up hotel prices but if you are happy to stay in guesthouses, rooms can be had quite economically. I don't think they are all airconditioned though.

Beaches not as beautiful as in Philippines but you can't have everything!
 
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