Coast Starlight--Seattle to Los Angeles Travelogue

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Oreius

OBS Chief
Joined
Jun 5, 2012
Messages
696
I am currently sitting in the Lounge at 30th Street in Philadelphia awaiting my next great train adventure to Florida. Just about 2 weeks ago, I had the experience of traveling on the Coast Starlight No. 11 from Seattle to Los Angeles. I thought this was an excellent and very scenic trip. I took my parents along for the ride, as this was their first overnight train trip.

Seattle King Street Station is very nice. It looked to be recently renovated, with clean modern restrooms and a spacious waiting area. Our hotel in Seattle was located across the street so it was very easy to simply walk over and check our luggage through to LA. We needed RedCap assistance, as I have had four spinal surgeries in the past 3 years--two this year alone. My mom also has mobility issues. The gentleman was very nice and enthusiastic about the rails. He loved my Amtrak hat with all the pins of the different routes I have taken. He gave me a commemorative Amtrak 50th Anniversary pin!! When it was time to board, he drove my mom, a couple of other ladies, and myself in a Pargo to our assigned cars. We were in the first sleeper. I had purchased a Bedroom for my parents so that they would have their own shower and toilet. I was booked in a Roomette in the same car.

The Superliner 2 Sleeper was named "Washington" which is fitting since Seattle is in Washington State. I found the Roomette to be a bit roomier than the Viewliner I roomettes I have ridden in on my Florida to Philadelphia trips. They had no sanitary facilities, but there was a roomy communal shower on the car's lower level and a half-bath across the hall. My parents were pleased with their accommodation. The Starlight had 7 cars and 2 P42DC locomotives (No. 2 and No. 167). There were two sleepers, one business class car, diner, sightseer lounge, 1 coach, and 1 coach with a baggage compartment. We left Seattle on time.

The journey from Seattle to Portland ran along BNSF tracks. We saw the Tacoma Narrows Bridge (aka as "Galloping Gertie" due to the fact it would sway dangerously in the wind decades ago. As a result, it actually collapsed.) As we neared Portland, the tracks traveled directly down the median of Interstate 5. It was strange seeing 3 lanes of traffic on either side of the train. I also saw Mount Hood--highest mountain in Oregon. Portland Union Station was also very nice--with a ornate waiting area, and a snack shop. We were given time to go into the station and grab a snack or a smoke. From Portland, we stopped at Salem--Oregon's capital, and then Eugene. We passed several lumbar yards on the way.

One of the most scenic aspects of the trip began after we left Eugene. We turned east and began the long climb up the Cascade Range. By dinnertime, we were at almost 5000 feet. The scenery was magnificent, with rugged mountains, tunnels, and very tall Douglas fir trees. As night fell, we entered Klamath Falls, OR. Here, we were given our last "fresh air" break. The air was very smoky due to the numerous wildfires that have plagued this region. In fact, the moon shone orange.

During the night, we crossed what I call "The Miracle Trestle" near Weed, CA. This trestle was severely damaged by a wildfire in late June, and was expected to be out of commission for 2 months or more. I was a nervous wreck because I feared this great train adventure would have to be cancelled. However, Union Pacific quickly worked around the clock to repair the trestle, and it reopened after only one month. I settled in my Roomette and took a few hours sleep. I awoke, and we were stopped north of Chico, CA due to a disabled UP freight. We were delayed over 2 hours--the issues you face when being on a largely single-track line. At breakfast time we neared Sacramento--California's capital. I was very shocked and saddened to see an enormous number of homeless camps along the tracks. I saw many of these along the rails in all three states we traveled through.

We skirted San Francisco Bay, and I saw the skylines of San Francisco and San Jose. After leaving the Bay Area, we traveled on the UP Coast Line down to San Luis Obispo. Here, I saw perhaps the most spectacular horseshoe curve as we descended towards San Luis Obispo. We went through several tunnels, and over a trestle. The mountains were beautiful. I observed this at dinnertime. At this point, we were running 3 hours late as a result of the disabled freight near Redding and also technical issues in Oakland. The sun set as we left San Luis Obispo. We saw the Pacific Ocean illuminated by moonlight, and there were portions where the ocean almost seemed to touch the tracks. We finally arrived at Los Angeles Union Station just after midnight--3 hours and 15 minutes late.

Overall, I was extremely impressed with the Coast Starlight. It has become my new favorite Amtrak route. The onboard Staff were very friendly and helpful--our SCA was impressed I knew so much about railroading and scanners!! I highly recommend this route at least once in your lifetime. My parents also were impressed by the scenery.
 

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The CS always seems to be late. I have ridden it a few times between Chico/Seattle and Chico/LA. Since I board/disembark between 2 and 4 in the morning I have always ridden in coach.
 
I appreciate your report. Your photo of the ceiling of King Street Station is an enjoyable memory for me. The renovation of that Station has been so well done.
 
The CS always seems to be late. I have ridden it a few times between Chico/Seattle and Chico/LA. Since I board/disembark between 2 and 4 in the morning I have always ridden in coach.


Our SCA told us #11 was 6 hours late two days before our trip!! Jeez. I don't think UP and Amtrak are on friendly terms.....
 
Our SCA told us #11 was 6 hours late two days before our trip!! Jeez. I don't think UP and Amtrak are on friendly terms.....
Correct.

Good report, enjoyed the reaed and looking forward to your next one.
 
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