Escape from Russia: Version 1: 1 Bus, 2 Planes, and 9 Trains

Seaboard92 · Apr 1, 2022

Planning

Well initially I hadn’t planned on having to need to escape Russia. I had seen the news about Ukraine but I’ll be quite honest I thought Putin was bluffing trying to mess with midterm elections in the USA, and elections in the European Union so I just planned my normal trip. Both my girlfriend and her mother caught Covid Shortly after my last trip so we planned to have a relaxing weekend for all of us in Zelenogorsk. I moved my days so I could have the end of February off.

Then the plan was to take the beginning of March off and have my mother join me in Germany for a week for a relaxing time.

Day 0: Seven Legs in a day

I was very miffed when I woke up at O Dark and Early in Buffalo, NY because crew scheduling felt the need to force me to miss my transatlantic flight by extending me on an Indianapolis Turn from Philly forcing me to miss my flight by 40 minutes. Giving me a little bit of time to get to the London flight. I opted to self for my deadhead to Boston in order to get that flight with more of a margin for delays.

The flight on the B737-800 from Philly to Boston wasn’t really that bad. It was just a normal flight up the North East Corridor. I had an entire row to myself near the front of the plane. I then got a small dinner in Boston’s airport because I hadn’t eaten at all this day because hotels have done away with free breakfasts and regional airlines believe in fast turns.

I then wandered around the airport for a bit before settling in the gate area for my flight AA 106 to London Heathrow the one transatlantic service from Boston. As I was waiting to board a woman collapsed so I dropped what I was doing to go and respond. I might not know Spanish but I do know basic first aid. And I stayed with her and the other employees till paramedics arrived. Shortly after that it was time to grab my B777-200 to London. I had my choice of seats because business class was completely empty.

Nothing quite like having a cabin to yourself. My initial plan was to go to sleep after takeoff and skip the meal but that didn’t happen because I still like free food. I had the Peppercorn Seared Beef Filet which was quite good. I’m still not a hundred percent sure on what Pommes Anna exactly is or why I forced myself to eat it. While eating dinner I watched the first half of BlackkKlansman and then I fell asleep. I made a mental note to finish watching the movie though because it was beyond fascinating.

Day 1: London Heathrow to Pre-War Russia

I woke up too late for breakfast but the FAs made me a lovely Togo breakfast bag that I could eat on my next flight with all sorts of snacks for me to eat. As everyone forgets Russia is a long flight away from London. At this point I’m used to the strange looks going to Russia but the crew understood when I told them who I was going to visit. I was happy that this flight was landing in Terminal 3 instead of where my normal flights into I think Terminal 5 or 1 I forget which it is. That made the connection so much easier.

I was one of the first off as my connection was a bit tight and I have to leave security and customs then check back into it all. This time I had my suitcase though which made the process faster. Unfortunately I did not have all of my gifts for her because they were all in my car. I was going to pull my work clothing out and replace it with all her gifts. But because I didn’t get to Charlotte I didn’t have her stuff. She was just thankful I was coming and couldn’t care less about stuff.

Then I went to the FinnAir check in counter and checked in and left my large bag with them. Then I went thru Heathrow security and for the first time I finally did it right. I’m not used to security anymore so I never remember what to take out anymore. I had a lot of time before my flight so I shopped in the Duty Free shop and got gifts for her nephew for the Defender of the Motherland Day, and gifts for my girlfriend. I already had a gift I bought in the lego store for her niece.

I then went to the end of the concourse and found a great place to plane spot for a bit while I waited for my gate to be posted. One thing about LHR there is amazing variety to be found if you enjoy plane spotting. I saw a special British Airways livery that might have been the best catch though. Then it was time to get on my A321 on over to Helsinki. The flight was fairly full and both seats next to me were occupied but at least I was headed the right way and not ending up stranded in London.

I tried to sleep for most of this two hour flight which proved a bit difficult. One thing I don’t like about Finn Air is no at seat outlets. So I turned my phone off to conserve battery. We arrived in Helsinki and I was surprised we were brought to a hard stand. I have to say I really enjoy that though because it’s so rare to get off a decent sized aircraft by the air stairs. It was fairly chilly but not that bad for the moment. My camera went into overtime mode for our drive around the airfield which was great because it took us right to where the flight to St Petersburg left from.

So I didn’t have anywhere to go and I got a seat on that plane and was ready to go again. Again another hard stand for our E190 flight over to St Petersburg. I had to use the bathroom so the minute after the seatbelt sign came off I was headed for the bathroom which was after the beverage cart passed my seat. So I just took a jumpseat in the back for a few minutes while waiting. After all I’m in uniform and licensed to occupy them.

Once the cart came back then I went back up to my seat and filled out my paperwork to enter Russia. I ended up talking to my seat mate who was a really friendly Russian guy who now lives in Germany. He was quite charming to talk to. Виктория (Viktoria) had made me an appointment to get a Covid test done at her house so I had to be in her apartment fast and I’ll be honest I was a bit worried about that.

St Petersburg airport May be small but leaving it can be a pain as you wait for your luggage, customs, and getting a taxi and finding said taxi. We landed a bit late which also made me worried about that because I know how she can be when plans are interrupted. I cleared customs rapidly, then I waited for my bag. That’s where the problem was because the belt got jammed. Eventually they got that fixed and my luggage came after a five minute delay. Then I left customs and went straight for the cab area after hitting an ATM for cab fare.

She set it up for me to get a cab on her app and I had no trouble finding my driver Gregory who was quite talkative. And I’m always trying to be friendly even though I have trouble understanding his Russian. It’s really funny I understand my friends but almost no one else. Once out on the road there was no traffic which was rather strange to be truthful. There is never this little traffic. I then got to her apartment where she wasn’t ready so I stood out in the cold till someone left the building and I went in. Then I waited by her door in my work uniform.

She let me into her apartment but wouldn’t hug, or kiss me till I had changed clothes and taken a shower to which I couldn’t really blame her to be honest. So I took a quick shower. It has to be quick because she only has a 15 gallon hot water tank so you have a second to get the water right and then a minute or two of good water before it gets cold. It’s even worse this time because she’s also cooking meaning less hot water to be had.

So it was a very rapid shower as I tried to not freeze and I had only a few minutes till the Covid test. I had to have a Covid test to enter Russia but another one to enter the hotel from a Russian firm. Shortly after my shower the courier came and my girlfriend did the Covid test to me in her kitchen as the cat looked on. You have to find someone who loves you enough to shove a Q Tip up your nose and a popsicle stick down your throat. That to me is a sign of true love. After that we ate dinner which was a Russian salad, mashed potatoes and chicken.

I don’t know if I was just hungry or the food was actually good but I could have inhaled the entire meal. After that we spent some together time before her mother came home. Doing dishes was really fun because recently I bought her a new Bluetooth speaker so we can listen to music while we cook and clean. When the 1973 Stumblin In by. Smokie came on she was just overwhelmed by wanting to dance. So we danced in her cramped kitchen trying not to bounce into the table, the stove, or the sink.

In all honesty no Part of her house is designed for random dancing but it was none the less enjoyable. It was actually more than enjoyable in its own way it was just perfect like there was no fear of tomorrow, we were just two lovestruck people just enjoying each other. And because of the small space it wasn’t even conducive to dancing but in that moment I was just so in love with everything. I think when her and I get married (as that’s a definite thing at this point) this will be the song I request for our first dance because it was just perfect.

After we got dishes done which always takes way too long we settled down for bed. I was tired from a seven leg day, and she was just tired herself. It still took her however forty to fifty minutes to get ready for bed where I was struggling to stay awake as tired as I was. But this is normal for us. I would love to know why it takes that long to be ready for bed.

Seaboard92 · Apr 1, 2022

American Airlines B777-200ER at Boston

British Airways Better World

Finn Air deplaning on the tarmac

The forest in Zelenogorsk

Our snowmen on the beach

Viktoria making the snowman

Our hotel in Zelenogorsk

Seaboard92 · Apr 1, 2022

Viktoria on the outdoor swing.

I really like how relaxed Viktoria looks here, the light was something else though.

This is the beach when we were there.

The two of us on the beach in some of the brightest light I have ever seen.

She didn't understand chasing and she accused me of looking at trains with more admiration than I look at her. I can't help that trains are my first love.

My dinner at BBQ and Beer

The switch engine that brought the Metropolis into the station.

The Metropolis waiting for it's departure.

Seaboard92 · Apr 1, 2022

Day 2: The Invasion Begins

This was the only day Виктория really let’s me sleep in because she thinks I need to take care of her needs and be awake ahead of her. Which i do tend to agree with but the news we woke up to wasn’t good. I must have had sixteen messages from various loved ones asking me to leave. But to be honest I really didn’t want to leave and I tried to make sense of what was going on.

Based on my limited interpretation of the news in the few minutes I had to read it, it only looked like Russian troops went into the two breakaway republics. That in itself really didn’t seam so bad to me after all it didn’t seam to look like they were rolling into Kiev. We then ate breakfast after that and got ready for the day. The First Order of Business was a haircut for me because she wanted me to get one. So she had me go to her normal hairdresser which was a good haircut and relatively inexpensive.

She told her hairdresser what she wanted done and then went back to the apartment to pack. I then went to the pharmacy and purchased something she texted me to say I needed to get. After that I went back to the apartment so I could pack the few items I was taking to Zelenogorsk. She then cooked a small lunch for us before we took a cab to Zelenogorsk. She ordered a cab to take us out to the countryside but I was surprised by the routing. Instead of going the way I thought it would go via center city and then closely paralleling the rail lines.

Instead we crossed the Neva on her street and continued out past the Mega which is a shopping plaza that now as of the writing is probably a very lonely place as most of the brands are foreign and are now closed in Russia. Then we got on an interstate like road to run around the eastern outskirts of St Petersburg passed a handful of large apartments and a lot of trees. I dozed off some and for some reason every time she would wake me up to see the scenery. Eventually it became a two lane road and there were some interesting older buildings.

And I dozed off once or twice before I just stayed awake. It got easier to stay awake though because we were now paralleling the mainline from Finlandsky Station to Vyborg and I’m still a railfan. However nothing ever passed us in a good clearing always behind a handful of trees. A little secret about me I’m very much afraid of taxi cabs so every time our driver would go to pass a car or more often a line of traffic I would reach to the backseat and hold her hand.

I don’t think she quite realizes that I’m so afraid of taxis that I would do a lot to avoid them. Eventually after at least an hour and a half in the cab we arrived at our hotel. Hotel Aquamarin and we went into check in. We turned my passport in for them to make their copies, and sent them my Covid test and then we’re able to go up to our room. Much like Russian apartment buildings the interior halls do not run the entire length of the building half of the rooms are on one side, while the other half are on the other side with two larger rooms occupying the middle ground.

So where most american hotels have two elevators that service all the floors this hotel has two elevators that each serve half the hotel. We were on the fifth floor in a beautiful room. We had a large bathroom unlike their apartment, a small kitchen area, and a living room area that has a folding bed where her mother slept. Then a bedroom with a king sized bed where we would sleep.

As soon as we got settled in we went back downstairs and got my passport and then got the good news that I could go to the banya (sauna) which initially they said I couldn’t without a Russian QR code. So we went back to the room and changed for the sauna which basically means your underwear and a robe. Виктория forgot her bathing suit so she had to borrow her mother’s which didn’t quite fit well enough. But then we walked down the 3 1/2 floor where the sauna was and went in. The First room we went into was the Turkish Bath and she asked what I thought.

I told her it felt like a South Carolina summer which really isn’t that much of a stretch. Obnoxiously hot and humid it felt like home. Initially it was empty in there but more people came later. Then we took a shower and yes in our underwear. Probably the first time I’ve ever taken a shower in my underwear. Then we went into the Russian sauna which was much hotter. But honestly it didn’t bother me it had a hourglass for fifteen minutes in it and I’m proud to say I made it at least 11 minutes.

I wasn’t about to let her outlast me so I waited till she was ready to leave the 2nd tier of hell. Then we went into the freezer for a minute which is a room I definitely can outlast her in. Then after that we took another shower and then had some water before going in the finish sauna. That one is so hot I don’t think I made it four minutes in there. All of this without my phone too so I entertain myself with my thoughts till eventually she’s like you can leave if you want.

She didn’t have to tell me twice I went right back to the walk In freezer and was In there for a solid five minutes. Then I went into the Turkish bath with her one more time but this time I couldn’t tolerate it for nearly as long before I had to get out. Then we showered again and went back to the room. Then we changed clothes well really put clothes and went to dinner. Our hotel includes three meals a day and the sauna as much as one wants to go.

So we went down to the buffet which is included which is an experience in of itself. My first instinct was to just grab a plate and grab whatever I found interesting. There was fried chicken thighs, chicken fingers, some pork dish and a few other things. I then set about helping Виктория with gathering what she needed. I should have paid more attention to how she makes tea though.

After at least twenty minutes of getting food and preparing the table before we ate. I must have been fairly hungry because I wanted to get a second plate and I did. Which I don’t even know why because the food really wasn’t that good. The Company was great but the food wasn’t good. The only good item to ingest was the tea and that’s because Виктория is a true wizard at making tea. I have no idea how she got so good at making it to be honest.

After dinner her mother went back up to the room and we went for a stroll around the property. We saw what appeared to be a disco party going on in one of the buildings from the ground as we wandered around. Eventually we wandered outside the gates down the street. We made fun of a house out there that was a McMansion by American standards as Putin’s Dog’s Dacha. The tough part about walking down the street is having to clear the only real ice free area everytime a car comes by.

We eventually started walking down a path along the main road I thought I could walk next to her instead off the mostly compacted path I fell into the snow. By a good distance. Then we went back to the hotel to wait for her friend Jura who was going to a nearby Ski resort to swing by bringing her bathing suit for the spa. After that we then went to our room for the night and watched American movies in the tv.

Seaboard92 · Apr 1, 2022

Day 3: Snowman on the beach

We woke up in the morning in time for the breakfast service for our side of the hotel at nine. This time I was asked to make the tea and I royally messed up. One it would help if I knew anything about how to make tea other than watching Виктория make tea here once so I just threw a spoonful of everything in it. By far the most awful liquid I’ve ever consumed. But because I made it I drank every last sip. Meanwhile she corrected it by making her own version of it.

I honestly don’t remember what the breakfast was because I didn’t really enjoy it. I know we made fun of some of the outfits people wore downstairs to the buffet. And trust me there are some strange people. Then we went back to the spa and we followed the same routing thru it as we did the day before. I also made it my job to make sure her mother stayed hydrated.

Walking around the spa was tough too because the floors were all wet and it was tough to maintain traction. But I did spend a lot of time trying to keep everyone happy. After about two hours we went back to the room to relax a bit and unwind. But before you can get too comfortable it’s time for lunch. So we go back downstairs and repeat the process of the morning. Except now I’m more focused on helping prep the table before getting my food. So I made a point to get silverware, water, juices, and other small items.

After lunch and unwinding for a few minutes then Виктория and I then decided to take a walk down to the Gulf of Finland so we walked out the front of the hotel. Then walked up the icy driveway up the hill to get back to the street. On our way out we walk by the Helios hotel which is a Soviet built resort. Then we crossed the street and walked thru the sanitarium to the beach front. The Beach is completely iced over and covered in snow.

So what do you do when you can’t reach the sand you make a snowman on the beach. I think the reason we thought of this is I walked in the snow and sunk in a bit. And decided I should make a snowman as this is moist snow that is conducive to snowmen. So we made two snowmen. I was content to just leave our snowmen naked. She then explored the beach looking for sticks and other items.

So her snowman ended up with hair, a scarf, arms, eyes, a nose, and earrings. Neither one of us brought our cameras with us so we decided to go back to the hotel to get our cameras. And we figured her mother needed to get out somewhat. On the way back to the hotel she also told me that whenever we do get married I have to be ok with either buying an apartment for her mother near us, or let her live in the guesthouse.

I’m perfectly fine with that because family is everything to me as it is to her. So then we walked back to the beach and photographed our beachfront snowmen. Then we walked a slightly different method back to the hotel. And after that what time is it dinner time. I don’t remember what the food was but I remember we all thought the food was bad to the point it became a joke. We took her mother back to the room then decided we wanted to enjoy the live music in the rooftop restaurant.

We went up there and they were full so I only got a bit of the show. So we went back to the room and when we got there we were told a table was available so we went right back up. We chose to have tea and dessert which was a good choice. Now the food still wasn’t great but the atmosphere was great. The musician while he wasn’t super great he was truly magical.

In this Time of war and uncertainty it is really uplifting to hear a room full of people sing and dance along with an old Elvis song “can’t help falling in love with you”. I took a few videos of the singer because it was just a magic moment. Then after that we went back to bed.

Day 4: Going back to the city

Today we woke up at nine am so we could go to the breakfast hall again which was again not that great. It was by far the smallest meal I ate here because it was just not good. Then we went back to the spa and her mother didn’t last more than fifteen minutes in the spa this time.

Then after that spa visit it was time to eat lunch which again wasn’t any good but quality time with the family is good because we don’t get a of time together. Even though I’m somewhat worried about what’s going on and my family is asking me to come home. But I don’t worry because I am happy with her and I feel completely safe.

After lunch we packed our bags and checked out of the hotel at the exact moment we were supposed to. Then we stored our bags and went back out to the beach where we relaxed in the sun. The snow makes it excessively bright. After that we had her friend Jura drive us back home because he had to go into the city too. I had to get money from the ATM for some reason so we stopped at a Sberbank so I could get some money.

Then we took the road that parallels the railroad which was amazing because we left town at the same time as the Elektrichka bound for St Petersburg. And even though Jura wasn’t trying to chase it I did catch it four times as the train would leap frog us with its many stops. We then grabbed the toll road into town because I had an appointment at a vaccine clinic.

We had a time getting into the clinic but we got in. I got my Covid test done so we could go into a museum the next day then I got a Sputnik Vaccine. And no I don’t glow in the dark. Getting the vaccine was easy they have a doctor examine you first to make sure you won’t have a reaction. But the nurse who did it I called nurse hatchet was incredibly rough. Generally I don’t feel the injection but this one I could feel.

Then we went to the mall near her sisters house because a few weeks earlier I made her mad so I promised to buy her expensive handbag to make it right. I forget what I did because I’m a guy and I do something wrong at least twice a month. And I have to say I bought her a nice handbag. I had a choice between two but I basically know to share her opinion at this point. Then we took a strange route back to her apartment over the harbor by the soccer stadium.

Eventually after taking a hundred side streets we ended up at her apartment. Then she made everyone dinner as Jura stayed over for a bit which I didn’t like. I’m not a large fan of his to be honest just because he is her ex. She got angry at me because I didn’t understand what she wanted me to do which was give her her house shoes.

The problem was she didn’t ask in a clear way. So she was angry with me for a bit. After eating I did the dishes while they talked for a bit. At this point the Swift sanctions were announced so I was like well I need to go get rubles so I have some. And so I could give her money for my largest gift yet a dishwasher. Part of that is also because I’m lazy and I hate doing dishes. This dishwasher partially helps me as well but it will save her so much time going forward.

After Jura finally left Виктория and I went to the metro station and emptied the ATMs. With the sanctions a lot of people started running on the banks to get their savings out so getting money was very difficult. After that I decided I wanted to get her some flowers so we went and bought flowers before going back to her apartment. It wasn’t a pleasant night because her mother was mad about something. While Виктория was taking a shower and getting ready for bed she had me finish her puzzle we were working on.

I finished the puzzle but I didn’t put the last piece in so she could finish it. Then we struggled with going to sleep as her mother’s argument was really bothering her.

Seaboard92 · Apr 1, 2022

Day 5: Starting The Escape

I made a point to wake up early so I could make us breakfast because she got on me a few months ago about how she tries so hard to feed and clothe me. Well I’m generally a good cook but In my kitchen so what I made turned out bad. But the important thing is that I tried.

After that she told me that I needed to book my ticket home while she got ready and that’s when I found my problem. As a flight attendant I fly non revenue on any airline and my price never goes up or down. So I was surprised to see that I had no options. After England banned Aeroflot from their skies that started a cascade of closed air space for airlines to and from Russia as they kept a tit for tat policy going.

I eventually found a flight from SVO to Stockholm but it was fairly full so I bought a full fare ticket for $400 on it. I then told my girlfriend my problem and she was relieved I found one flight. So then I showed her the possible trains i could take to Moskva and that made her incredibly angry. So we spent the next two hours arguing. And I didn’t even know what we were arguing about. Turns out she was mad because I was suggesting taking a train on a date we had plans for Pushkin on. After two hours I gave up and put my foot down and that ends the argument.

As much as she likes to lead sometimes she reacts positively to her man making a decision. I don’t understand this but it helped end this. I then looked at the train schedule figuring we could at least spend the evening there but she didn’t want to do that. We then took another hour to leave the apartment before going out to lunch. We got on a bus to Prospekt Slavy to a restaurant she wanted to try.

On the bus ride over we crossed over the steam shop and nothing was moving but a few engines were under steam. We got off at our stop and went to BBQ and Beer and got settled down. I then washed my hands when I got a text from my dad that my grandmother went to the ER so my mom was canceling her trip. Nothing was actually wrong with her she just works herself into a fit when life isn’t the way she wants. At dinner I also got the notification that my flight to Stockholm was cancelled. I texted a friend of mine who enjoys doing airline routings and he told me still go to Moskva there will be better routings from there.

I still enjoyed the meal which was Russian BBQ and dumplings. This was really the best meal we had not because the restaurant was great but because we were just by ourselves. After our lunch we went to a bank to get more rubles for me because we really don’t want me running out. Then we had to find a blood pressure measuring device for her mother so we went to three different pharmacies with no success. After that we went into the small shopping mall on this street and went to the food court. We picked up dinner for her mother and then she also ordered me a dinner to eat on my night train.

The Restaurant we went to was Teremok which is one of the few Russian owned fast food chains so this will remain open. I didn’t realize how extensive their menu was till I was writing this report but it’s an amazing little place. After we got our food which wasn’t really fast we then went to the grocery store to pick up some produce and some other things she needed. Then we took the Trolley Bus back home.

Once we were in I washed all the items from the store because that’s what she does and then we relaxed a bit before it was time for me to leave to go board Train No. 19. She ordered me a taxi cab and it took about twenty minutes to get to the station. However it was a scary ride as he edged between buses and street cars. But there wasn’t that bad of traffic considering the city.

My cabbie didn’t help me with the bags but I got them out. I also had a few paintings for her friend in Berlin to deliver. So I went into the station and grabbed most of my bags from the security check point and I proceeded to my platform. The Train i was taking the Metropolis is very noteworthy because of its paint scheme. So I didn’t have to look at the departure board to find it. I then took several photos of it till it was time to board the train. Then I got settled in my second class room where there was only one man. Then another one and a woman came in prior to departure.

We departed exactly on time as I texted Виктория as we left which was mostly the standard mushy I miss you. I stayed in the room till we passed her overpass and I ate my dinner. Then I walked to the diner to get a drink which was about ten cars away. Then I settled down to try to sleep.

It was very Difficult to sleep though because my roommates kept the light on. That and I was running out of all my options to get a flight. All the tickets I was finding were several thousand dollars. Eventually my dad texted me and said maybe you should just walk across the border.

Which led me to the following crossings Brest/Trespool, Grodna/Poland, and Kallingrad/Poland or Lithuania. So I told this to Виктория and she found me a bus from Kallingrad to Gdańsk and I found a super cheap fare on Ut Air from Moskva VKO direct. But I wasn’t sure if I would make it from the train or not so I didn’t buy a ticket. Then I got up and turned the light off and it stayed off.

Seaboard92 · Apr 1, 2022

Day 6: Detouring to Kallingrad

I woke up after getting maybe an hour of sleep at most as we were arriving into Moskva and I was the last out of my room because I couldn’t find my camera bag. So then I asked the car attendant and he couldn’t find it. They asked if I wanted to make a police report but as a foreigner in this political climate I opted not to. I then tried to check with the lost and found In the station. Виктория called her ex who called me to ask more about it. Now he works for RZD in their IT department doing something with PTC.

But he was able to make a phone call and see the security camera footage of me going thru security at the station where I had left it. And then Виктория went out to get it for me. I then went into the metro and had a time getting in as the machine gave me the wrong ticket but eventually the worker just scanned me in and I took the line 5 which is the circle.

I grabbed the first train and I think I ended up with the longer of the routes as the short route via Belaruskaya would be 5 stops to Kievskaya I took seven stops. I almost have the full circle covered now. Then I lugged my luggage up stairs and bought my ticket for the Aeroexpress to VKO airport. I went to wait on the platform and was surprised they are using a normal Lastochka for this route. On the train I tried to buy my flight ticket now that I was assured I would make it and my card kept getting declined.

So a quick message to Jura and he let me use his card and I would pay him back in Kallingrad. That worked so then I enjoyed my short little jaunt on the train to the airport. I checked in for my flight and had to pay for my carry on and the item she was shipping to her former friend. Then I went thru security with almost nothing which was a breeze and stopped at the Burger King inside the terminal knowing I would want to eat before flying. I barely had time to do this but they were late boarding my flight so I ended up with time.

I ended up getting a window seat right behind the exit row on this B737-800 which is enjoyable. For me I enjoy photographing planes and there were plenty of different liveries out there and a few old Soviet aircraft too. I managed to get a few photos on the take off roll of the Russian VIP aircraft that are used to carry Putin around. Then I slept for most of the flight waking up just before landing. But I was able to see the beautiful East Prussian scenery my grandmother has always told me about.

Normally this flight would have been an hour because it’s really not that far but with the Baltic airspace closed to Russian craft we had to fly out over St Petersburg then west and then lastly south to reach Kallingrad overall three hours flight time. We touched down and I claimed my bag. Interesting they were doing passport checks for people on arrival. Then I took the bus down to the train station.

I had my friend Cliff look up hotels near the train/bus station so I could stay and he found one. Then Виктория booked and paid for it for me. The bus was relatively scenic actually especially as we got closer to town. And once in town it passes a few of the medieval remnants of Königsberg specifically the old city gates before eventually coming up to the bus station right next to Kallingrad South railway station which when it was built was Königsberg Hauptbahnhof.

I then followed my map to where the hotel was and couldn’t find it. Turns out my hotel was inside the train station and operated by RZD. It was quite a simple place but it was charming. I dropped my bags off and then went for my next mission buying my bus ticket. My initial bus was sold out so at the counter I just asked for any western country Lithuania or Poland and she sold me a ticket to Warsaw for the following day departing at 1:30.

With that done I now had to get a Covid test to enter Poland so I looked for a place to get it and along the way I did some sightseeing because I had always wanted to come to this city and now I’m here. So I’m not wasting an opportunity. I was told of one place so I walked over there and they didn’t do any but they made me an appointment with a clinic across town that does. I told Виктория and she told me she would order a cab when it was close to time for me. So then I went down to what was once known as the Kniephof which was the historic downtown. It’s an island in the middle of the Pregel River.

One of the few remnants of the old Königsberg stands proud to this day the old cathedral on this island so I photographed it in all its Prussian glory. Then I walked over to the New Synagoge and got in my taxi to get my Covid test. I had a bit of a wait in a random old german courtyard but I got a Covid test more on that later. So the. I decided I could walk back as it really wasn’t that far of a walk. My phone was just about dead which is typical for it.

I started by walking to Victory Park and taking photos of an old German church before walking down past the zoo. There was a tram line but I never saw a single tram moving. I forked to the right and found an amazing vantage to photograph a train from near the north station in a cut. And because I saw something interesting I eventually ended up on Victory Square where the theater is a large shopping mall, and an Orthodox Church is. One thing about Russia that is growing ironic right now everything relates to the Victory in the “Great Patriotic War” or World War II.

I passed a German restaurant and said that would be a good spot to eat seeing this once was a German city. I also figured I could charge my phone which said it was on one percent while eating. Well my phone finally died and my charger plug was broken so no I couldn’t. And it made me enjoy dinner more with a completely dead brick than a smart phone. I enjoyed talking to the Russian woman next to me who is in the same boat as me. Her boyfriend lives in Italy and this was her only way out too.

Then after my schnitzel I went across the street to the mall and found a new adapter plug for my charger. On the way out I found a gelato place so I had two scoops of my favorite straticella. After that I just drifted down the street towards the House of the Soviet. Which is this very dystopian looking skyscraper that sits on the grounds of the former Königsberg castle. Along my walk I passed many former German houses and passed a former Soviet Hotel “Hotel Kallingrad”.

In front of the the House of the Soviet are the skeletal remains of a once proud Prussian castle. You can look in at them but there isn’t much to see. After that I went back to the Kneiphof and instead of going straight to the cathedral I detoured to the western shore of the island to photograph the World’s Oceans Museum which looks like a big globe. Then I walked around the Cathedral taking night photos of it and I visited the tomb to Immanual Kant who was born here. I picked up a few souvenirs from a vending machine selling magnets.

What was unique was Johnny Cash’s Ring of Fire was playing on some radio by there. More unique it was playing XM radio 60s Gold with my favorite DJ Phlash Phelps on the air which was incredibly unique. I’ll have to phone in and tell him I heard him there. Then I walked past the Fisherman’s Village which I think is just a new build designed to look old before eventually walking back to the hotel. My supervisor called me while I was there but again my phone was fairly dead so I didn’t talk to her long.

Then I got to the station and for some reason I decided that taking a photo of the Autobus Station was interesting and I did. On my walk towards my hotel I stopped into a Russian BBQ place and grabbed a quick bite to eat before going in for the night.

Seaboard92 · Apr 1, 2022

Another night train pulling in across from us.

The view from the train station at Komsolkaya Square.

A Lastochka on the Aeroexpress to VKO

My friend Anna works for this Russian Charter airline

I have no idea what type of plane it is.

Putin's Air Force One the quad engine IL-96

Arriving into Kallingrad. I will take my next vacation here.

A RusLine CRJ. As much as I hate flying on these I will always have a softspot in my heart for them.

A church on our bus ride in from the airport.

The Bus Station in Kallingrad. Got to love that Soviet Style.

Seaboard92 · Apr 1, 2022

Kallingrad South Station aka Koingsberg Hauptbahnhof

A statue of Lenin in Kallingrad

Here is an example of the prewar German city.

This was the Stock Exchange prior to becoming the city museum.

Koingsberg Dom the main church. And as you can see it's built in the North German style

Here is the fisherman's village. I'm pretty confident this is a new build.

The new synagogue next to Russia's only narrow gauge tram line.

A strange statue here in Kallingrad

The entrance into the stadium

Victory Square

Seaboard92 · Apr 1, 2022

A church on Victory Square

Another look at Victory Square

One of the few photos of trams I have in this city.

German heritage on display

Again some more German heritage on display

House of the Soviet and the remainders of Koingsberg Castle

A night view of the church, you can see it's North German style plainly here.

Such a beautiful building isn't it.

Here is a view of the Fisherman's building and the Synagogue on the Pregal

A very atmospheric photo of the bus station.

Seaboard92 · Apr 1, 2022

Day 7: Detained at the Border

I woke up with three missions for the day.

Mission 1: Pay the money back to Виктория and Jura

Mission 2: See the city gates of Königsberg

Mission 3: Actually escape Russia

So the night before Виктория and I devised a plan to get the money back to them. I could scan Jura’s QR code and make a deposit direct to his account at one of Tinkoff’s ATMs. So I knew there were likely ATMs at that mall I was at the night prior. I also knew there was a way I could walk to it where I saw a lot of the medieval city gates. So I set out around eight in the morning to do this. I started with the Brandenburg Gate which shares its name with the famous one in Berlin.

At one point the trams went thru the gate but that has long been abandoned yet the rails remain in place. Then I followed the rail line down to the Pregal. And along the way I managed to see a small DMU train pass by. I had to jaywalk across a busy street but it was worth it. Then once I got to the bank I went to the next gate which if memory serves me right is the Kings Gate.

After that short detour I crossed the river on the double level lift bridge that is traffic and pedestrians on the lower level and rail traffic on the upper level. And I followed the railroad as that basically marks the medieval city limits. My next goal was the Railway Gate but that one is tricky if you aren’t looking for it you miss it because it feels like an overpass. It is right next to a World War II memorial with an eternal flame for those who died defeating fascism the first time. What’s ironic is people are calling Putin a fascist.

I then found the Ausfall Gate again by accident because if you aren’t looking for it you’ll miss it completely. I tried to see the train passing nearby but didn’t get a photo. At this Point i googled the commuter train schedules to figure out what they were and I paralleled the railroad cut. But it wasn’t a cut it actually was the old city moat just drained of water. There was a train coming shortly and I lined up the shot I wanted from the night before for the Lastochka. Then after that I went into the mall and I withdrew the 20,000 rubles or however many it was I owed in five small transactions to hit the maximum allowed transaction limit.

Due to the run on the banks all the ATMs limit how much you can withdraw at a time. The. I walked over to his atm and I was able to get half of it to take but it refused to take the rest. No problem I just walked over to another atm this time at the Виктория supermarket which was by the fisherman’s village so I enjoyed a daytime walk to the house of the Soviet and across the Kneiphof. This ATM only took three thousand rubles before it wouldn’t take anymore and I was frustrated.

Then a college student who was shopping with his mother had to withdraw money he offered to help me. His idea was if I put the money in his account he will transfer it to Jura and it will be done. And that worked like a charm. Then he’s like “now you tell your countrymen we are not all bad people it is only Putin who is bad”. And that’s the message I’ve been trying to get across to people. Russians are good people but they have no control over their future.

After that was done I was running short on time for my cutoff to be at the bus station. In my opinion the bus was the most important event today so I wanted to be at the bus station at least an hour in advance. I got back to the hotel at noon and checked out. Then I stopped at the BBQ fast food place again where I bought both lunch and dinner. Then I walked over to the Soviet era bus station. I went straight thru security and thru the ticket inspection out to the platform and the bus wasn’t there.

But what I didn’t notice the day before was the steam engine on display right above the bus station. So I photographed it while I ate my fries. Then the big yellow Ecolines bus pulled in and I queued up for it as the second bus pulled in. I was directed to the second bus and I had a window seat in the second row behind the driver. I then ate the rest of my lunch once I was in my cramped seat. I had only one checked bag and my carry on wouldn’t fit over the seat in the overhead so it got to be where my legs go.

Then I relaxed the other bus left a few minutes ahead of us and then we got rolling after the driver briefed us about the safety procedures. We passed another medieval city gate on the way out of town and shortly thereafter we were in the east Prussian countryside my grandmother talked about from her childhood. Which is mostly bucolic farmland. We passed a few former German villages on our way to the border at Pruß Eylau——— as the German name. Our drive down we would occasionally see the former ________rail line. Right at the border we crossed over the now abandoned rail line. When this region was taken over by the Soviet Union and later the Russian federation a lot of the infrastructure was neglected.

Then we pulled into the border right behind the first bus which was probably the first problem. They were only capable of handling one bus at a time and we sat outside the customs area for at least two hours. I then ate my dinner Fearing I couldn’t bring it across. Every once in awhile the bus would be completely silent not even the sound of the motor was heard that is how thick the tension was. Then there was more tension whenever the air raid sirens would shriek and we would here dogs barking.

And occasionally we would hear some yelling for good measure from outside. Eventually the Ecolines bus ahead of us cleared and we made our way into the checkpoint. Now it becomes a real disorganized mess as 70 people have to take all their baggage off the bus then go into the building. And instead of there being a queue of any sort it’s just a mob that slowly pushes from an entry into a small room with two medal detectors one which isn’t working and two customs officers.

Somehow I ended up at the end of this line and I ran my phone charge down fairly effectively playing sudoku on my phone. Normally I would play Risk but my favorite maps are all in Russia now so I figured that might look suspicious. Eventually I reached the women in the customs office. She asked me “how many more are behind you” she was relieved when I said none. Then I got back on the bus and we sat for at least another hour waiting on some people with supplemental questioning to return. And I was able to charge my phone a bit.

The Russian border crossing was scheduled for thirty minutes. We actually took five hours to clear the border. We then stopped in the middle at the duty free because the bus driver figured we needed provisions. I was Swift and grabbed a large bag of gummy bears and some chocolates. I should have bought drinks too.

Then we moved onto the polish side and the other Ecolines Bus was nowhere to be seen. And again we unload the baggage and get in line. And again without a queue. But this line is half outside in the cold before it moves into a much too small building with people body on body. No social distancing here. I could watch the people who were driving to the border walk outside to those border guards that weren’t really gainfully employed too much.

I hate to say it but the smartest thing at the border crossing was the dog. And he was a German Shepard that looked really happy and sniffed everyone’s crotch. I eventually made it to the customs woman and I don’t think she had ever seen an American passport before as she looked at it with a lot of confusion and had to call like ten people over to look at it. And there was a problem with my Covid test. So I got detained which meant standing in a hall with a few others that was really too small to do anything.

Then after an hour or so they gave my passport back to me. All of this was while my phone was dead as well. Eventually we got back on the bus and the bus driver insisted I put my carry on under the bus too which gave me so much better leg room. Such a nice guy. Then he said go run to the restroom because our bus doesn’t have the facilities.

We were again scheduled for 30 minutes to make the crossing and we ended up taking four hours. So now we are eight hours late on what was timetabled to be a nine hour bus ride.

Seaboard92 · Apr 1, 2022

The Brandenburg Gate

A Russian DMU Service

The Friedrichsburg Gate

This is the Eisenbahn Gate taken from the top of it. Like I said it is like a normal overpass just historical

The World War II Victory Monument

Ausfall Gate

A Lastochka running in the city moat

The German Heritage is clear as day around here.

The Remains of a Prussian Castle just lay here since the Soviet Era

The House of the Soviet

Seaboard92 · Apr 1, 2022

This is the Museum of the Worlds Oceans

The Bus Station platform

EcoLines Bus loading to go to Warsaw

A remnant of the German past on the road to the border.

Seaboard92 · Apr 1, 2022

Day 8: Riding the Refugee Train

At this Point we crossed the border shortly after midnight local time and I got a bunch of congratulatory text messages from various people in my family and their church. I ended up talking to our preacher Stewart for a good three hours by text about what I had seen and experienced. And it was a really cool drive to be honest.

Being in the second row I had a great view out the windshield so I could enjoy the passing scenery a bit better. It was a two lane road and very dark so the headlights illuminated various things. Our drivers driving was a bit scary at times as he liked to be over the middle line way more than I am comfortable with but in his defense the lanes are very small. Most of the bus had no problem with sleeping but I was enjoying this back country drive.

I love two lane country backroads and this was definitely one of them. The only difference is when we would come to a town you would see medieval squares, towers, and castles lit up at night. There was one really remarkable one at Warminsk that was definitely out of the Prussian times. Eventually our road turned into a four lane highway to Warsaw. The entire time we were driving dow the two lane I was eating gummy bears from what must have been a three pound bag. It took me the better part of two hours to finish them.

Then once we got on the four lane and I had finished them I tried sleeping. I tried every position. Then I started feeling I’ll probably from having eaten three pounds of haribo and was wanting water and regretting that I didn’t buy any. I was also closely monitoring our schedule to see which train I was going to take.

My initial plan had we been on time. Was to take the night train to Breslau/Wroclaw and transfer to the NightJet to Berlin at five in the morning arriving at ten am. So I was watching how far we were to see which train I would take onward to Berlin. There was a four am train that looked doable that would also arrive at ten am. Then we stopped at a gas station because the driver felt that we could all use a restroom break and snack break. So I bought some Fanta and water for the last like thirty ish minutes of our bus ride.

I felt so much better after the water that I didn’t even touch the Fanta. Then eventually we arrived at the bus station in Warsaw next to the west station. Walking they the bus depot was like walking into a different world. In the middle everything you could think of was piled up, diapers, water, strollers, you name it it was there. The polish people know what it feels like to be invaded as a culture so they had everything ready for the incoming refugees.

I then walked next door to the train station and it was body on body with people just trying to find a train to go west into Germany. I tried buying my ticket on my phone but it said train sold out. I eventually found a ticket machine and I was able to buy a seat halfway on the train I wanted to take the 4 AM train to Berlin. So I bought a first class ticket to Poznań. Then Deutsche Bahn let me buy another first class ticket on the same train to Berlin from Poznań this one with a seat reservation.

I then went out to the platform which was crowded with people and the train eventually pulled in not behind its normal power but behind a heavier duty freight engine. I found my car and proceeded to board all while women were racing up and down the platform with strollers in tow and their husbands with bags. I squeezed into the vestibule of the first class car but that was literally the furthest I could go in the car because there were people body on body everywhere.

Some even got off the train at this stop to try running along the outside to find a better seat or place. After everyone that could cram inside did they finally departed a few minutes late towards Berlin. The Train gathered speed and i was positioned in the vestibule with my bag in the step well and my body leaning against the wall.

One of the refugees there was really concerned that the electrical locker kept opening so I attempted to fix it twice. Once by forcing it back closed the second time using a checked baggage sticker off my suitcase. But that didn’t do a good job so I told him you watch my suitcase I’ll get the conductor. So I went to the dining car where the conductors normally are and the counter staff didn’t understand what I was trying to say. But the conductor did.

Her and I talked for a minute while we fixed it with a bigger sticker for door out of service. And I volunteered my help seeing i speak fluent Russian which is the dominant language of the refugees. And that I’m from a transportation background she accepted my help. I changed into my work uniform to look more official and she locked my bags up with hers. Now I know your like people can tell the difference between a flight attendant and a railroad attendant the answer is no. So many people ask me Amtrak questions on board Amtrak when I’m in uniform so no one knows a uniform.

I then worked the 11 car train to Berlin working on mask compliance, and trying to at least make the hallways passable in the event of an emergency. While doing this I really got to know the refugees really well. They would show me their pictures, their scars, and tell me their stories. And then they would listen to mine and be like you’ve been up all night you need to drink. Here is water. Now keep in mind they had already drank some of it so I refused politely. Then they are like you need food I go get you food.

And again I’m politely refusing because I can afford my own food these people would literally give the shirt off their back if someone asked. There was no problems with luggage thief’s, or people taking advantage of others. They had formed some unique community and they were all in this together. Midway thru the journey I decided I should do something for the refugees financially so I decided to start photographing, and interviewing the refugees for the American news.

In the past I’ve done Freelance stuff for various magazines and various television networks and they pay well too. So I figured I could take this material and then sell it to the networks in the USA and I could then donate those proceeds. So I spent a bit of time while working the train doing that and the train ride passed rapidly. I had a chocolate cake in the diner for breakfast and eventually we pulled into the German border station. I was introduced by the outgoing polish crew to the German crew and they kept me working. It was fairly uneventful till we got near Berlin the doors on the polish cars will open when the train is stopped regardless of the fact if it’s in a station or not.

So one of the refugees attempted to get off on the Stadtbahn and I pulled him back just as an electrified S Bahn wizzed by. But other than that it was fairly uneventful. We arrived at the first station and we were told no one was to detrain there so we had to keep the masses on the train then we moved over to the main station. I retrieved my bag from storage and went to the head end of the train to take a photo I’m still a railfan after all. And I met Виктория‘s friend Vikas there to give him the package from her. I then watched the train depart while the state police worked on processing all of the refugees coming in.

I then went and stored my luggage in a locker and took the s Bahn one stop over to frederichstrasse for lunch. I figured I could go to one of my normal haunts on the river but they were closed so then I just walked down frederichstrasse to unter den Linden to a schnitzel restaurant where I was able to charge my phone. The Schnitzel was decent and then I started my hike looking for a camera charger knowing I would need one soon. So I tried the first stop further down frederichstrasse near checkpoint Charlie and no luck. He recommended some places that might have it.

And he checked their inventory as well for me going really above and beyond. So then I started walking back up to Unter Den Linden by taking a different route somewhat. I went all the way passed the new city palace which isn’t quite new because it’s a recreation of an old building and then into alexanderplatz. I went into Saturn and bought a universal charger which would work for my camera. Then I walked back to the Brandenburg Gate and along the way I passed the Russian embassy.

Outside there were many protesters and signs against the war in Ukraine. And the place was surrounded by German police. That didn’t stop some enterprising Germans though from lighting human fecal matter on fire and throwing the bag of it towards the building though. Then I went over to the Soviet Memorial to see if there was anything going on there in the Tiergarten. And to my surprise not a single person was there. Now that isn’t unusual it is a strange monument most overlook. Then I walked past the Bundestag to the train station.

Seaboard92 · Apr 1, 2022

I reclaimed my bag and purchased a first class ticket to Wernigerode via Magdeburg and Halberstadt. My theory is after such a stressful week I deserved one stress free day to ride narrow gauge steam in the mountains. Then I boarded my regional express in first class. Found two empty seats laid down and I didn’t wake up till ten minutes before Magdeburg. The conductor never came to lift tickets. I got off where my connection was touch and go and was lucky because we made up ten minutes right before our stop.

So I changed platforms and got on my new regional. On one of the open access operators. The Ride was uneventful and now I felt awake enough to enjoy the evening. I was the only person in first class and this conductor did bother to lift tickets. It was an enjoyable quick ride with a beautiful sunset on the north German plains. Then soon after sunset I made a cross platform connection to another regional bound for Goslar. After fifteen minutes I got off at my stop in Wernigerode.

Already when I got off the train I could smell steam engines so naturally I drifted that way and found a decapod tank engine sitting in the Harzschmallspurbahn Yard. I photographed it and the. Navigated my way to my hotel the Erbprinzenpalais which is located right underneath the castle. And I do mean right underneath it is a very steep hill from the train station up to the hotel. I was awestruck with how beautiful the hotel was when I got there.

And inside was just as beautiful to be honest. I checked in and was then guided to the room by the woman running the front desk. I had a room in the backside of the hotel overlooking the castle. Well I had to look up as it was still uphill. After I put my bag in the room I grabbed my camera and I was off to explore the town. For years I have always wanted to come to Wernigerode because I’ve seen photos of it and loved dreaming of going here.

So I retraced my steps down the hill to the Main Street because the town is built in The Valley for the most part. And I started walking down a quaint street that was almost entirely half timber houses from the medieval period. Literally walking in this town feels like a fairy tale. Now I wasn’t hungry but I also knew at eight thirty at night I had to find dinner or risk places closing so I popped into a local guest house. There weren’t many people in this elaborately decorated place.

On the Inside they made it feel like it was sitting outside with building facades on both walls. I had a schnitzel which was absolutely massive and well worth the price. After leaving the guest house I went down by the main square by the Rathaus. At this Point i saw a sign for the city gate and another for the steam shop. You know you are in a good town when there is a sign for the steam locomotive shop. So I walked to the city gate which is right by the rail line and followed it around till I was north of the main square and I walked back into the old town. Then I investigated a church steeple for photos.

Eventually I ended up exploring almost every street in the city. Then I eventually went up an alley which took me to a route up to my hotel. So I went back in thru the side door as instructed and went to my room. I didn’t feel the need to go to bed just yet I sat on my balcony for a few moments and ate the two small bags of gummy bears they placed on the pillows. Then I set my alarm and went to bed.

Seaboard92 · Apr 1, 2022

I have to go to work now so I'll continue these postings once I'm off. This is my trick to get used on hot reserve

Metra Electric Rider · Apr 1, 2022

Fascinating story - perhaps I missed it, but was it not possible to leave via Estonia or Finland? I haven't followed whether or not they closed their borders or not...

jis · Apr 2, 2022

IIRC only Russians and Fins were allowed to cross the land border between Russia and Finland while it was open.

jiml · Apr 2, 2022

Another amazing story J. It was interesting to note how often Covid still popped up in the narrative despite being overshadowed by the other events. Looking forward to the remainder.

Metra Electric Rider · Apr 2, 2022

jis said:
IIRC only Russians and Fins were allowed to cross the land border between Russia and Finland while it was open.

Thanks! I saw in an unrelated article this morning about academia that Finns aren't even allowed to email russia. And Norwegians (in the North anyways) aren't allowed to have russians in zoom calls - understandable since they have a and border with russia.

Barb Stout · Apr 3, 2022

Fantastic tale. You should consider getting this published as well as the stories of the refugees.

Seaboard92 · Apr 4, 2022

Metra Electric Rider said:
Fascinating story - perhaps I missed it, but was it not possible to leave via Estonia or Finland? I haven't followed whether or not they closed their borders or not...

No the train is only for Finland and Russian nationals right now. I'm not sure about Estonia I know the train was canceled for Covid and I can't find the schedules anymore for those trains. I know Ecolines is still running buses as I've got a reservation for them.

jis said:
IIRC only Russians and Fins were allowed to cross the land border between Russia and Finland while it was open.

I was under the impression it was only the train that had a problem with that because I can still book a bus between the two.

jiml said:
Another amazing story J. It was interesting to note how often Covid still popped up in the narrative despite being overshadowed by the other events. Looking forward to the remainder.

The remainder is about to come here in a few minutes. I'm home for two nights. Covid is always going to be a problem.

Barb Stout said:
Fantastic tale. You should consider getting this published as well as the stories of the refugees.

I really should write a book at some point and it is something I would love to do. I'm actually donating all the money from my credit card kickback money from work. As you know we make the credit card announcements on the flight and right now my kickback is $115 per open account with my number. So I'm donating that to the refugees and victims of Putin's aggression for every month till the conflict is over. In March when that paycheck comes in I'll be donating $7,000 and some change.

I'm also working on coming up with a dinner train using Ukrainian foods to raise some money.