Long Way to the Coast Starlight

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Maglev

Conductor
Joined
Sep 4, 2016
Messages
1,531
Location
Orcas Island, Washington
It had been over forty years since I rode the Coast Starlight northbound from Los Angeles, and I remembered it as being very beautiful along the coast around Santa Barbara. So for this year's trip to Hawaii, we routed through Los Angeles on our return so we could ride the train to Seattle.

We flew on a Kenmore Airlines Cessna Caravan from Orcas Island to Seattle. It was dark as we approached the city, but I was able to see a Sounder commuter train with its headlight and coach lights reflecting in the water of Puget Sound. We spent the night at the Edgewater Hotel on Elliott Bay. Dinner at their restaurant was fantastic, and the next morning the kind taxi driver from the night before drove us to SeaTac. We flew Delta Airlines on a Boeing 757 to Honolulu, with good service in first class (and the food was okay).

The weather for our week in Hawaii was perfect, with rain only on the last day (when I was feeling a little "under the weather"). One highlight was going to a Heiau, or temple ruins, above Waimea Bay. There was nobody else there when we arrived, and we were able to just sit on the grass and have a picnic including fresh ahi poke. After we finished our lunch, a shower greeted us with a rainbow and we packed up just as other people arrived. The first was a local woman in a SUV, who drove up then sat there in her car on her cell phone with her engine idling.

This was also the first time in forty years I have flown American Airlines, and it seemed fine compared to Delta or United. The service was friendly and the seats in first class on an Airbus 321 were fine for a five-hour flight. But the dinner entree we selected ("pepper beef") was not good.

Our cab driver from LAX to the Westin Bonaventure was fine, but our driver the next day to Union Station was not. First, he got in an argument with another cab driver, yelling out the window and blocking traffic. Then he opened the windows again just as we were passing an intersection populated with mentally unstable types ranting. And he did not set the meter. This made my wife feel very uncomfortable. Another experience my wife was not expecting (but I was) was the grilling by the Metropolitan Lounge attendant about the amount of luggage we were taking on the train (two carryons and two personal items per person). This set the tone for a less-than-perfect Amtrak experience.

But we had beautiful weather, a friendly and efficient crew, and our Bedroom was on the ocean side with the couch facing forward. I try to avoid spending my vacation looking through a camera or always waiting for the perfect picture, so I had determined that the one thing I wanted to photograph was the coastal running in southern California. I'll share three of those photos here. The food and conversation in the dining car was fine, but the LSA used a system I have not seen before for reservations. She took names and did not give out reservation slips. She announced that she would call people by name, but didn't always do that: sometimes she only announced the seating time, so if you didn't remember when your reservation was (because you don't have a slip), you were left wondering.

The night on the train was marred with an experience that may forever deter my wife from train travel. It was my fault, and I share details with you here so that others may avoid the same accident. Before I climbed into the upper berth, I folded up the chair seat to give us more floor space. Well, in the dark, my wife went to lean on the chair and instead fell with her shoulder hitting the very sharp corner of the table support where there is a cup holder. We had plenty of ice in our cooler for a cold compress, and she was lucky to not hit her face or head. But I felt responsible for not pointing out that I had modified the room.

As we were entering Eugene more or less on time, just at the switch onto the station siding our train came to an abrupt halt. We sat still for about twenty minutes, then continued on the mainline past the station and past the other end of the siding, where we stopped then reversed into the station on the siding. This gave us about a forty minute delay total, and we were about a half hour late into Seattle.

We had a fine room at the Embassy Suites right across from King Street Station, and slept in the next morning. We enjoyed a late breakfast at the hotel's 24-7 fine-dining restaurant, "13 Coins," which for proximity and quality ups the ante for King Street Station as a world-class transportation center.

We then had another bad cab experience to Boeing Field for our flight to Orcas. The driver literally forced my wife into her seat--she does not like her space violated, and has a lot of injuries at the best of times--shoving on the shoulder she hurt on the train. He then did something strange with the meter, charging us $2.60 fare and $18.00 tip when it should have been the other way around. It was a nice flight to Orcas, however, and we were soon back at home in front of the fire with our cats.

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Thanks for the report.

Another experience my wife was not expecting (but I was) was the grilling by the Metropolitan Lounge attendant about the amount of luggage we were taking on the train (two carryons and two personal items per person).

Um, what? Why were you expecting that? If you are within limits, why the questioning? (We will be close to those numbers and at the Los Angeles Metropolitan Lounge soon, and I certainly would not have expected to be questioned if you hadn't mentioned it.)

The food and conversation in the dining car was fine, but the LSA used a system I have not seen before for reservations. She took names and did not give out reservation slips. She announced that she would call people by name, but didn't always do that: sometimes she only announced the seating time, so if you didn't remember when your reservation was (because you don't have a slip), you were left wondering.

We just took the Coast Starlight and experienced that reservation system. The LSA was Alexis; do you recall the name of your LSA? I wonder if this is standard on the Coast Starlight or some variation by one or more LSAs.

Before I climbed into the upper berth, I folded up the chair seat to give us more floor space. Well, in the dark, my wife went to lean on the chair and instead fell with her shoulder hitting the very sharp corner of the table support where there is a cup holder.

I'm sorry to hear that, and wish your wife a full and speedy recovery. It hurt just to hear about it.
 
I had heard on the forum here about the lounge attendant's strongly encouraging people to check luggage. I knew I was within my limits for carryon, but I had more with me than usual. I had sent to our LA hotel via UPS a suitcase with pillows and blankets to use on the train, so I had that in addition to my rollaboard. UPS charged $45, and the hotel charged a $16 service fee. Considering how much I spent for the Bedroom ($880), it was a small investment in comfort. Then I also had a cooler with me, which was within the size limits for a personal item (but technically not the 12 x 12 x 12 allowed for coolers), in addition to my backpack. My wife had a rollaboard plus another smaller underseat-size bag, and her purse. By the way, there is a brochure rack next to the coffee and snacks with copies of the carryon baggage policy.

The lounge attendant seems to just try to get people to check luggage. Maybe there have been instances when the downstairs luggage rack overflows. Or maybe they are trying to get more people to use checked baggage service for job security.

I thought the LSA's name was Alyssa, but it may well have been Alexis. The forms she was using appeared to be hand-made.

One more comment about the train: it had three coaches in addition to Business Class, and three sleepers in addition to the transdorm.

And one more picture, of #'s 158 and 26 pulling 14(16):

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I almost always take all luggage into the room, although the lounge attendant would not know that. The Eagle Creek Load Warrior usually fits under a seat, and it's easier to pull it out from there and get something than to go downstairs and rummage through it.

By the way, there is a brochure rack next to the coffee and snacks with copies of the carryon baggage policy.

Yes, there is a brochure rack, and it has copies of the carry-on baggage policies. I mention it because it has two different descriptions of the "2 personal items per ticketed customer" policy. Guess what? They are different. (One says the maximum size is 14" x 11" x 17"; the other says 14" x 11" x 7". I'm guessing the smaller size is correct. Interestingly, that smaller size is 1/8 the maximum size of a regular bag, but the 25 pound weight limit is 1/2 the 50 pound weight limit of the regular bag.)

Of possible interest to people planning to take the Pacific Surfliner (perhaps to the Gathering next year) is that the maximum bag size is 28" x 22" x 11", somewhat smaller than the 28" x 22" x 14" maximum on the rest of Amtrak. I know I would be irked if I traveled with a bag legal on the rest of Amtrak but had some zealous employee tell me I couldn't carry it onto a Surflner.

One more comment about the train: it had three coaches in addition to Business Class, and three sleepers in addition to the transdorm.

The Coast Starlight I was on had four sleeping cars in addition to the Transition Sleeper, although it appeared that at least half the rooms on the train were empty at all times. Maybe the extra rooms were needed for travel in the other direction.
 
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