[SIZE=14pt]Canada Rail Trip June 9-16, 2015[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14pt]Ohio-Buffalo-Toronto-Cobourg-Ottawa-Montreal-Halifax [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Tuesday June 9[/SIZE][SIZE=12pt]After some detailed planning and acquiring our VIA Rail tickets, we decided to ride The Ocean from Montreal to Halifax. Our trip would involve driving from our home in Ohio to Buffalo, NY where we crossed the border over the Peace Bridge. The drive to Buffalo was uneventful with just a little rain shower and low traffic volumes, even on the NY Thruway on this Tuesday morning. Stopped for lunch at the Angola, NY rest area and then continued our journey to Buffalo.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]The Peace Bridge crossing is a busy one with long lines of trucks and autos stopped on the U.S. side for brief inspections. Today it was slowed by an intensive search for two escaped prisoners from a NY penitentiary who may have been headed for the border. All trucks were being searched and our van received a quick once over before being waved on across the bridge. The Canadian border entry went quickly as a personable young agent asked for our passport cards, a few questions about our reason for entering Canada and length of stay. She was intrigued by our journey on the train and wished us a happy visit. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Just as we headed out on the Queen Elizabeth Way freeway the skies opened up and a heavy rainstorm nearly drove us off the highway. With the heavy traffic and limited visibility we decided to pull off, get some gas and wait for the storm to pass at Niagara On The Lake exit. Since it was already 1:30 and we wanted to get through Toronto before rush hour traffic began, it was time to make haste. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]The rain let up as we followed the QEW highway through St Catharines, Ontario and had a nice view across Lake Ontario. We crossed the Skyway Bridge over Burlington Bay at Hamilton and quickly made our way up to the Rt. 407 known as the ETR (Express Toll Route). We had been advised that traffic in Toronto is very heavy and the 401 highway was both dangerous and slow at many times during the day. So we opted to pay the rather expensive toll and were glad we did. Traffic was much less congested on the three lane roadway and we made it to the eastern terminus (107km) in about an hour. There are no toll booths, just large camera towers that take photos of your rear license plate and send you a bill. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We reached Pickering, Ontario around 3pm and found the traffic on Rt. 401 to be picking up greatly and got caught in some minor traffic jams as we headed east toward Cobourg, our destination for Day 1. Another hour brought us to Exit 474 and our hotel at the Comfort Inn Cobourg. A nice two story building, (but no elevator to the second floor room), that had recently been refurbished, (the smell of paint in the halls still evident). Checked in and then made our way downtown to find the VIA Rail station and some eateries for supper. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] But first we remembered we had not yet picked up any Canadian money and since it was almost 5pm we just made it to the Bank of Montreal where a pleasant staff welcomed us to Canada and helped exchange our Greenbacks for some loonies, toonies , and very attractive Canadian paper currency. Interesting that Canada has done away with dollar bills and moved to coinage. We then drove out to the mall area where a number of restaurants were available. We hoped to try some of the downtown establishments on our return trip next week. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We chose Mario’s East Side with several varieties of Italian dishes that stimulated an appetite. Service was impeccable as wife enjoyed a spaghetti & meatball dish and I had the lasagna, an unusual blend of pastas and cheese in a huge serving. Great salads and breads, but no room for dessert this evening. The décor was interesting with a large “statue of liberty” figure in one hall, lots of historic memorabilia on the walls and ceilings. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Decided to check out the Cobourg VIA station after dinner. The station has recently added a modern walkway with elevator over the tracks. The original station is still located next to the new facility and contains the ticket windows, baggage area and waiting room. Efforts are underway to refurbish the old waiting room areas. We chose this station because a Canadian friend lives nearby and his railfan buddies hang out at the station and would watch our car for the week we would be on the train and in Halifax. It also would allow us to ride VIA Rail trains along the corridor between Toronto and Montreal without the hassles of using the Toronto station. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Lots of commuters are arriving on VIA Trains 55 from Montreal and Train 650 from Toronto. These trains have three passenger cars attached and were pulled by a P42 locomotive painted in brilliant yellow and turquois colors. Train 55 arrived right on time around 6:30 with Loco 915 heading the consist. About a half hour later Train 650 arrived with Loco 900 at the lead. Enjoyed the nice sunshine as train activity would now slow down for the evening. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]After a long 500 mile drive from Ohio it was time to head back to the hotel, watch some NCIS and then enjoy the Cavaliers victory over Golden State in the NBA Finals. Lots of sporting activities going on in Canada as well with the planning for the Pan Am Games in Toronto and Womens FIFA Soccer games all over the country. A pleasurable day of travel and looking forward to tomorrow’s ride on VIA Rail. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Wednesday June 10[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We awoke from a restful sleep and went downstairs for breakfast. A selection of breads, cereals, waffles and eggs and sausage were available along with fresh fruit, etc. Eating area was small, but there were only a few couples up eating this morning so not a problem. With the positive exchange rate and using our Chase Sapphire card, we saved a bit of money on the whole affair. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Left the hotel around 8:45 am and headed for the VIA station. Met some of our railfan friends watching trains at the west end of the station lot. Ted, Keith and Phil were avid train watchers and welcomed us to Canada. We caught westbound Train #41 lead by Loco #919 pulling into the station from an early morning departure in Ottawa. A half hour later a local CN freight made its way westbound on Track 1. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] Checked in with the station agent who noted our train would be arriving on Track 2. Therefore we would need to use the overhead walkway to reach that track for boarding. Since Train 52 does not have checked baggage, we were told we could place our larger carry-on bag in the storage booths at the front of the business car. We would then need to check that bag when we arrived in Montreal because storage space on the Ocean Renaissance cars was very limited. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]After saying goodbye to the guys, we moved to trackside. Several more passengers joined us on the platform as we anxiously awaited our first VIA train ride. I had arranged for Business Class tickets on Train 52, which took the scenic route to Montreal via Ottawa. A two hour longer ride, but wanted to see some different scenery than our direct straight line on #63 return trip. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Some CN freights made their way down the track as we waited. Then our train came into view. But surprisingly the announcement was made that both Train 62 and Train 52 would be in the same consist with Locomotive #904 on the lead and our #906 heading the second section. I have seen photos of VIA trains running this way and was interested to see that our train would operate in that fashion. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We boarded Car 5201 Business located directly behind the locomotive and found the crew to be welcoming and helped get our large bag into the three level baggage holding area near the kitchen section of the car. We found our seats 5C & 5D on the north side of the train. Nice wide windows for viewing. This car had 2-2 seating and had plenty of leg room and comfortable seats.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] As our train moved quickly out of Cobourg we were very pleased with our initial contact with VIA Rail. Our two attendants, Danielle and ? immediately went to work offering a succession of drinks, hot towels, snacks, wine, etc. in the first hour of service. Their service carts worked well except when someone needed to get down the aisle where maneuvering was a bit tight. The overhead storage compartments were similar to those found in airlines but much larger and held our two carry-on luggage plus C-pap machine easily. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Soon after our journey began we passed through Brighton, Ontario and noted the Memory Junction Train Museum with its old steam locomotives and rolling stock on the grounds. Across the Trent River and soon passing through Belleville, Ontario we noted they too had a new overhead walkway similar to Cobourg to allow safe passage to opposing tracks. We enjoyed the announcements in French & English which gave a European flair to our trip. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We passed through Kingston, Ontario around 11:30 and were served our (First) luncheon soon afterward. Choices of wines and soft drinks precluded choices of several entrees including salmon, a vegetable pasta and low fat chicken and a beef dish. We chose the latter two combos and both were served hot and were delicious. Follow up visits for after dinner chocolates and more coffee or wine. A class act indeed. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We made it to Brockville, Ontario around 12:45 where our two trains would now be separated with Train 62 moving directly to Montreal while our Train 52 would turn north to Ottawa. It took only a few minutes to separate our engine from the rear of Train 62 and then we turned north toward Smith Falls and a more wooded terrain. Our run to Smith Falls went well until we encountered several freights and a southbound VIA train that put us on a siding for a delay. We were assured by announcements that our train would soon be moving and our arrival into Ottawa delayed only slightly. We passed through the ruins of an old cabin and other structures in a field and did not find any information about what it was. We moved quickly toward our Fallowfield stop in the suburbs of Ottawa where many people left the train for commuter rail nearby or their cars in the large lot. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We arrived in Ottawa about 15 minutes late but plenty of time to get off for a walk on the platform. The station is very modern but I did not have time to venture inside since our attendant said the train would leave as soon as the new passengers boarded. We were one of only a few who remained from the original trip from Toronto and our attendant Danielle said we would be served another light lunch on the way to Montreal. Such a deal. Our second attendant left the train in Ottawa and two new male attendants took his place. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We left Ottawa around 2:15pm and immediately went through the same distribution of hot towels, wine, snacks, etc. for the new passengers as well as those of us who were continuing our journey. Lunch was a light sandwich or cheese & fruit plate. We chose the latter which was excellent with a variety of cheeses, melon and grapes and a small salad. Beverages and chocolates continued after dinner. The scenery brought us nice views of the river as we moved closer to Montreal. As we passed into Quebec province, the announcements changed order with French coming first, then English. We arrived at the Dorval stop around 4pm and started to see the commuter rail stations as we edged closer to Montreal. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Agence Metropolitaine de Transport (AMT) operates the metro system and has some sleek double deck Bombardier cars similar to those run in Chicago Metra or California Corridor trains. We pass locomotive 1362 as we enter the tunnel into the station and also notice Amtrak train (Adirondack) sitting on a far track at the platforms as well. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We have never been to the Montreal station but found the signage to be helpful and the people always nice in guiding us up the stairways to the main concourse. What a beautiful modern station as we walk along the large aisle looking for the Business Lounge known as Panorama. The entryway finds an attendant looking very classy in his suit and tie welcoming us to the lounge and giving us information about seating, amenities available and when to expect check-in for our Ocean train. We walked across the hall to check in our large bag and then spent the remainder of the time viewing the art deco wall designs and taking in some shops and just watching people. The Big Board in the center provided information about trains coming and going and noted our Ocean train would be boarding at 6:25 for the 6:55 departure on Track 13. Nice to know all this two hours before the train leaves. Rush hour traffic in the station began in earnest and it reminded me a bit of Chicago at 5pm.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] Returned to the Panorama Lounge and at 6pm an announcement was made to line up at the kiosk outside the entry door to sign in with Ocean staff and make arrangements for dinner. Others who have ridden the train knew to line up early so we ended up at the end of the line. But three train crew members made the process run very smoothly and we were given our blue wristbands that designated us at Sleeper Plus passengers and a scan of our tickets confirmed our Room 10 in car 1438. We moved back to the lounge for a few minutes until our train #14 was called to Gate 14 for boarding. A nice agent welcomed us to the escalator and we quickly moved downstairs where our train was waiting. We were directed to car #38 which was the last sleeper and close to the Park Car. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Our car attendant Janet met us at the door and since we boarded via the end of the 37 car our #10 sleeper was right around the corner. Impressed with the glass doors that divide the cars and the prints on the wall depicting scenes along the Ocean route. Also liked the door keys that allowed one to lock your door when not in the room. But the room was a bit small. Smaller than an Amtrak bedroom with a bench seat only on one side of the window. The door to the bathroom located near the window is a tight fit for those of us of larger size. Janet went over the amenities in the room and suggested I might have to sleep in fetal position in the upper bunk. Yikes. But it was a cozy room with outlets, small storage area for coats, etc. but not really enough room for our two duffle bags. Sure glad we checked our larger bag since there is no room for storage in the car. Restroom was nice and clean and the car overall was immaculate, unlike our old Amtrak Superliner cars. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Janet suggested that since our dinner reservation was for 7pm we might want to start toward the diner. Yes, it was 10 cars away and the narrow hallways of the Renaissance Cars led to some rocking and rolling as we walked the trail to the diner. All of the sleepers had 10 rooms and each car attendant was in charge of two cars since the train was not nearly full. Janet asked if I would be the designated safety officer in the car and she went over the emergency procedures and explained out to knock out the windows in case of an accident. Apparently every car has one room whose occupant can volunteer to help the attendant if the train crashes. An interesting concept that Amtrak might want to consider. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]On arrival into the diner-lounge car we noticed the nice lounge seating, a TV screen, WiFi access and the café bar where meals could be served to those not on a meal plan. Around the corner was the entrance to the dining car and we were met by a tall middle age man whose humor would make the trip even more fun. His name tag did not denote a first name and his last name was a long French name starting with a B.. sorry did not write it down. There were actually four servers in the car for the two sections of the diner. And the diner was so nice..cloth napkins, nice modern lighting, individualized menu cards with the selections for this particular meal and a decent wine list. Seating was booths for four on one side and table for two on the other. We were seated in the two person booth and this would be our arrangement throughout most of the voyage both ways. We do like to meet new people and thus we had little opportunity to converse in the diner. But it was nice to have a quiet meal with your spouse while the countryside rolls by the large picture windows. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]The meals are pre-prepared by a caterer and then heated in a convection type oven on board by a chef/microwaver..smile. Choices for this evening were Thai Chicken Risotto with curry sauce and vegetables, Pork medallions in wine sauce, Parisianne potatoes and veggies, Mustard glazed salmon in a wine sauce, red pepper mashed potatoes, green beans and red peppers, and smoked duck with raspberry sauce, oyster mushrooms, and new potatoes. We started off with a lobster bisque soup and salad and finished with a chocolate lava cake that was scrumptious . We had the pork dinner and it was excellent.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]After dinner we made our way back through the cars to our room to freshen up and then up to the Park Car. The transition car that allows the Park to connect properly with the Renaissance cars was very interesting. Flags of Canadian provinces, maps on the wall and a wide aisle to maneuver through the car until we reached the Park Assiniboine #8702. There are two sleepers in this car in the entry hall and then you walk along a narrow hall, past a small café lounge and then up an incline to the sitting room of the car. Semi-circular seating and snack table as you gaze out the back of the car. But the highlight is walking up the staircase to the dome where double rows of seats face the front of the train and the view was quite nice. Unfortunately, the front windows of the car were very dirty with insect remains smashed all over the glass making it difficult to take photos in a frontal view. The side windows were clean and thus I was able to get some nicer photos from the side views. Seats were very comfortable and our car attendant Kathy was very nice and friendly. We would spend the remainder of the evening watching the Quebec countryside pass by as the sun would slowly set in the west. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We were schedule to arrive in Quebec City (ST Foy) around 10pm so we wanted to stay up to see the bridge crossing over the St Lawrence. We ran into some freight traffic that slowed down our progress. Kathy told us about the programs she would be doing on Wednesday morning and afternoon and offered snacks , soda and water as we zoomed through the night. We arrived in St Foy after an interesting trip over a large bridge. Lots of passengers got on there and the sleepers had some additional guests. A conductor had to board the Park Car as we backed up across the bridge to get back to the main line. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]It was now time to head back to our room and get some sleep after a very long day of train riding. There was a sign that was to hang on your door when you wanted the attendant to make up your room or if you needed assistance. We had forgot to put it out so I found Janet and she quickly changed our room into night mode. I managed to crawl up the ladder and into the bed. It was not as tight as I had thought and the nice quilted bedding was certainly high end compared to Amtrak’s thin little blankets and mattress. The ride was relatively smooth and I slept pretty well. But since we were to change into Atlantic Time Zone in New Brunswick I wanted to get up early to see the sunrise and enjoy the Park Car in the morning. Good night.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Thursday June 11[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]I awoke around 4am and it was light outside. Decided to get ready, change clothes and freshen up. Since our room did not have a shower and there is no community shower in these cars, one is given to use washcloths and towels for refreshing, which actually worked quite well since there is plenty of room in the bathrooms for such activity. I told Claudia I would go up to the Park Car while she prepared for the morning and then we would meet up to head for breakfast at 6am. I was the only person in the Park Car at this early hour and so it became my own “private varnish”. Such a deal. Some snacks were left on the tray and I proceeded to get some photos of the car (sans passengers) and enjoy the sunrise from the dome. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We were still in Quebec but just about ready to cross over into New Brunswick. A few other early risers came up around 5:30 and we enjoyed some conversations about train riding. They were from England and traveling across the pond for a month long train excursion in the US and Canada. Some other US residents from Texas and another man who once lived in Ohio joined in the conversation as well. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Claudia came in around 6 and we headed up the long walk to the diner for breakfast. Our server was ready to go with his wit and charm as we had another private table. We had the pancakes with strawberry rhubarb topping and sausage, juice and milk. The sausage was a bit too spicy for my stomach and the server noted that many had not found them to be as tasty as they looked. There were some salmon, continental breakfast choices as well. Our server noted we were his designated milk drinkers on board and always had a fresh glass ready to go when we arrived. We decided to move back to the Park Car after a brief respite in our room that had already been made up by Janet when we returned. (Remembered to put out the sign on the door this time).[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We had crossed over from Quebec to New Brunswick at Matapedia as we had breakfast and our clocks could now officially be turned ahead an hour. As we entered Campbellton at 8am, we were close to OT. We entered a railroad yard and then could see the large bridge that crossed the Restigouche River across from Pointe a la Croix, Quebec. There were crew changes taking place here so we had time to jump off the Park Car and enjoy the fresh air. It was nice that at all of our stops, Kathy could open the door to the Park Car so we did not have to go back to our sleeper to step off the train. Campbellton had quite a history with it being near the site of the last battle between French and English forces in the Seven Years War, a railroad history dating back to the 1870s and the Intercontinental Rwy, and the large bridge that crosses the river (Bay De Chaleurses). Kathy gave us some historical features and the politics that brought the bridge into being. We spent about 20 minutes at Campbellton and after waiting for a CN freight to pass we were finally on our way again. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We followed the path along the Bay De Chaleurses through Charlo, Jacquet River and Petit Rocher through much of the morning with nice views of the water. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We had very nice color route guides provided with information about the cities along our route and a nice map. There were also many travel guides and magazines in the Park Car for perusing if the need arose. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We reached Bathurst around 10:15 and now running about 30 minutes down. It is raining a bit now as the skies darkened. We now pass through miles of tree lined rail and some swampy territory as we move toward Miramichi, known for salmon fishing industry and Rogersville where we start to see the large tidal basins with broad mud flats. We arrive in Rogersville at 12:45 and are now only about 15 minutes behind schedule. We are having lunch back in the diner (forgot to write down what we had for an entrée but we were introduced to Sugar Pie for dessert and it was a culinary delight.) [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Our next stop around 2pm was Moncton, NB where another crew change took place. We have now made up time and are running a few minutes early, which allows for additional time to get out and stretch. I take some photos for a couple of young girls from Australia who are traveling across Canada and check out the modern station. There is a lot of activity here as the FIFA Women’s Soccer Tourneys are being held at Moncton and so many people rode the train from Montreal and Quebec City to view the action. Finally get a nice sunny view of our Park Car, but it is too long a walk to reach the front of the train for loco photos. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]As we leave Moncton we start to see the massive mud flats that are the tidal basins for the Bay of Fundy. The tide is out, but slowly moving back in and the water is flowing quickly. Kathy gives several programs along the way about the tides, the Acadian history and their role in saving the land from erosion. Aboideaux were constructed to help drain a piece of land and eventually utilize it for farming. The history of the removal of the Acadians is a dark one in English Canada history. Kathy also talked about lobster traps and the industry in New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. There was also a wine and cheese tasting that we missed on our eastbound trip but I will describe later on our western return trip. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We arrived in Sackville, NB around 3pm. This is an unmanned station now but there were several passengers moving in and out of the train as we stopped. This is where the Acadian population was expelled from New Brunswick for their deportation to Europe and to the Louisiana bayous where many reside today. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We arrived in Amherst at 3:20 ontime and are now in Nova Scotia. A nice station and a town with many old mansions left from a prosperous history in the early 20th century. We begin to have a few delays due to freight traffic as we move closer to Truro. Springhill Jct. was an old mining town settled by Loyalists who fled the colonies during the Revolutionary War and is the home of Anne Murray, one of my favorite singers from the late 60s. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We now arrive in Truro whose station area is adorned with artwork depicting a long train with cars representing all facets of life. Library cars, Native Americans (referred to as Aborigines in Canada), old cars, parks, etc. Residents in the town were commissioned to paint their favorite subjects on the walls and most did a wonderful job. People come here to view the great tidal flows into the Bay of Fundy.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We are getting closer to Halifax now as the large bays come into view and the city skyline emerges over the tree lined tracks. We see lots of cargo ships in the harbor, a large container yard and CN locomotives adorning the tracks. We pass through a large granite- like cut to emerge into the Halifax VIA yard and the end of our journey. We say goodbye to Janet and Kathy and the other crew, but find out they are scheduled to be on our train on Sunday for our return trip. What a nice surprise that is as they were all top notch VIA staff. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We have a long walk down the platform to the station, but it is a nice sunny evening and there is time to finally get some photos of our two locomotives. # 6405 & # 6425 (GPA-30H). We move into the station and find everyone waiting near the circular turnstiles for the luggage to be brought in. It is then a mad rush to grab your bag and be gone. Since our bag has an Amtrak tag hanging on it, I am able to locate it with the other similar looking black suitcases. Yeah! [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Since we are staying at the Westin Nova Scotian hotel we have a short walk up the hall to the front desk for check-in. We are Westin Rewards members so they give us a nice room on the fourth floor overlooking the harbor and George Island lighthouse. A great view of the pier and harbor with sailboats and even a tall ship cruising. We unload and clean up for a walk downtown to look for supper. It was noted there was a large supermarket across the parking lot to load up on munchies and a Tim Horton’s nearby (They are everywhere in Canada) to have breakfast. Very convenient place to stay. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Lots of activity at the hotel since there are many graduation parties taking place, wedding receptions, etc. in this large hotel facility. Live entertainment in the hallways and several bars and restaurants. We head down Hollis Street to enjoy the varied architecture of many old buildings, shops, and apartments. We find an exotic pizza place called Piato Pizzaria which has certified pizza crusts and a broad variety of really wild combinations for pizza. Lots of 20 somethings were enjoying wine and other spirits and of course the pizzas. Special ovens used to bake the pizzas and you watch the chefs throw them up in the air once your pizza is ordered. An interesting place. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]As it was getting late we decided to walk down the street to the docks and return to the hotel along the Harbourwalk. There are numerous historic markers providing information about historic homes and events in the city. One depicted what is known as the Great Acadian Upheaval in which over 10,000 French Acadians were shipped out of Nova Scotia in 1755. Many were boarded on George Island across the bay until the ships took them away. Some escaped to French Quebec but they were never to return to their original home around Halifax. We continued our walk to the area around Pier 21 where a new immigration museum will soon reopen depicting the thousands of people who came from other lands to settle in Canada. We finally walked back to the hotel and enjoyed the view of the harbor. Another long day. Unfortunately ended with a Cavaliers loss to Golden State at home. Good night. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Friday June 12 [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Started the day by walking over to Tim Horton’s for breakfast and found the selection of pastries and other breakfast items to be quite different from the fast food American choices. A short walk from the hotel and then a quick stop at the Atlantic Superstore market to pick up a small umbrella and check out the selections from this very nice food store. Back to the hotel and a brief visit to the Halifax VIA station for some photos of the waiting area and the lounge available to sleeper passengers. It was a small two room area in the aisle leading to the hotel but nice chairs, coffee, soft drinks, but no TV. Today’s Ocean was waiting on the tracks outside for its noon departure back to Montreal. Glad we decided to stay a few days in Halifax rather than jumping immediately back on the train. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]After a quick stop in our room we set out for a busy day of sightseeing in Halifax. We walked down Hollis Street and followed a gentleman dressed in Scottish kilt attire marching up the street, probably heading for his day of work at the Citadel. We passed the Government House and the Alexander Keith Brewery before turning on Sackville Street for our long climb to the top of the hill to reach the Public Gardens and the Citadel complex. After a few stops to catch our breaths we eventually reached the very nice Halifax Public Gardens with its lakes, walking paths, statues, and beautiful flowers. The gardens were opened in 1867 and contain some historic markers and a gazebo and theatre area where concerts are held throughout the summer months. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We then moved across the street and climbed some more inclines to reach the entrance to the Citadel, a large fortress protected by star shaped masonry structure, barracks and numerous cannon and gun emplacements. Lots of school groups taking tours today along with tourists from all over the world. We spent a couple of hours touring the fortress, this structure was the fourth built on the site in 1856. Some cannon fire and soldiers marching around the grounds added to the excitement of the visit. Had some chicken club sandwiches at the commissary building and talked with some of the reenactors who manned the various buildings. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Worked our way down the hill past the Old Town Clock and then down Carmichael Street to a small park called Grand Parade where many people were having lunch on the esplanade. To the north was the City Hall and to the south was St. Paul’s Church, built in 1750 and said to be the oldest Protestant church in Canada. We continued our trek down the hill to the harbor where we stopped to watch some glass blowers at several artisan shops on the boardwalk. Decided to take a ride across the bay on the Dartmouth Ferry, which was a reasonable $2.50 roundtrip excursion. Nice ride on a sunny day and we had a great view of the Navy Yard and the growing Halifax skyline (many new buildings going up among the historic ones).[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Walked around on the Dartmouth side and at the shops in the Alderney Landing Mall complex. Found a small Canadian National yard to shoot photos and then stopped at an ice cream shop for some sundaes. CN 4707 (GP38-2) and CN 9411 (GP40-2) lead a consist pulling some autoracks through town as we enjoyed the delightful day on the waterfront. But it was time to return to Halifax on the ferry so as to make it to the Maritime Museum for a visit. While we waited for the ferry, a young man playing a piano in the waiting area entertained us with his musical talents. As we traveled across the bay, the Tall Ship Silva was returning from its voyage. It is a three mast schooner that takes tourists on a two- hour excursion around Halifax harbor. We did not get a chance to ride this time as there were private parties who had the ship reserved for the weekend. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Around 3:00pm we entered the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic on Lower Water Street and found the displays to be very educational. A program on the Halifax Explosion disaster in 1917 provided information about this deadly accident that killed hundreds of people. A nice Titanic exhibition and stories about the rescue and recovery efforts made by ships in Halifax and the cemeteries that hold Titanic victims. Many models of sailing ships, artifacts and memorabilia. As part of the admission one can visit two ships docked in the harbor. The CSS Acadia and the HMCS Sackville. Unfortunately they were closed to visitors during our trip so outside photos had to suffice. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]After our tour, it was time to find some supper and our craving for some fish lead us to a little outlet near the harbor called The Battered Fish. Great fish & chips and seats along the boardwalk to enjoy people and sailing vessels in the harbor. Tourist boats abound as we saw Harbor Hoppers, an amphibian vehicle painted in bright green that made its way on both land and sea with tourists enjoying the ride. The Theodore Two was a little tug boat with a large red hat over the steam port. The Harbor Queen, a double deck steamboat that could be rented for parties and private affairs. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]After a long day of walking and touring it was time to walk back toward our hotel to enjoy the sights of the Harborwalk and the view from our room overlooking George Island. We had planned to do the Halifax Museum of Art but ran out of time since they close at 5pm on Friday evenings. Although there is a prediction of rain for tomorrow morning, we hope to make it to the Farmer’s Market at the Pier and check out the artisans and food. Good night. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Saturday June 13[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]A heavy rain welcomed us this morning as we made our way across to the Farmer’s Market. Although there were many choices of various vegetables and some pastries, none would work for my sensitive stomach so after perusing the crafts persons, we headed out in the rain to Tim Horton’s for an egg & cheese roll and a blueberry muffin. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]When we returned to the hotel we found a charitable organization raising funds for Make A Wish Foundation sponsoring a repelling challenge from the top of our 12 story Westin hotel. Several young people donned their rope connections and came down the walls outside our room. We made a donation, but decided that this event should be left to those with more spirit and better legs. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]The sun had now emerged and it was turning into a beautiful day for all. We started our morning walk to town along the waterfront and observed Canadian police boarding a large catamaran and questioning the boat’s operators. We moved on down the boardwalk and found some new statues and historical markers commemorating Norwegian sailors who lost their lives during World War II and Canadian Merchant Marines who died as well. We continued down to the Marriott Hotel where the local fire department was grilling dogs and burgers to raise money for Muscular Dystrophy. We had a burger and observed some of the Highland flingers who were part of the entertainment for the event. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Decided to move toward the art museum but first a stop at the Provincial House where the Nova Scotia government meets. The gate was open and we walked in the front door to be greeted by the security guard who informed us that because of a noon luncheon there would be no tours today. He was very friendly and escorted us down the hall to see some of the rooms of the magnificent building built in 1818. He invited us to return next week for a tour but unfortunately, we will be on our way home. He showed us the cannons on the grounds that were once on the American ship Chesapeake captured in 1813 by the HMS Shannon during the War of 1812 in Boston Harbor. We also talked about his trips to Ohio and our enjoyment of Halifax and the friendly Canadian people we have encountered.[/SIZE]
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Next it was across the street to the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia. Although not a large museum, there were two buildings that were joined together via some rather confusing hallways and entryways. The configuration made it somewhat difficult to follow the exhibits. We were also disappointed to learn that the third floor gallery, which held an interesting exhibit on Nova Scotia art, was closing in five minutes for a luncheon reception and would be closed for the remainder of the day. Other exhibits of note were Northwest Arm, a study of art and culture of the bay area of northwest Halifax, which had some interesting oils and photos/maps. Shifting Ground navigates, in both figurative and literal terms, notions of transference—the movement from one place, form, or position, to another—through the intrinsic connections between the past and the present, nature and culture, time and space. Charting the changing currents in contemporary Aboriginal art across Canada as seen through the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia Permanent Collection, this exhibition takes a circuitous route that begins on the East Coast, and finds its way to the Arctic. Also a John Greer perspective; some very modern art interpretations that we found lacking in substance from our perspective
The most interesting exhibit brings to light the life of folk artist Maud Lewis, whose small home was actually moved to the museum and sits amidst her artwork from the 1930s to her death in 1970. She painted what she saw in her rural surroundings; animals, farmers, the harbors, flowers and birds that adorned her gardens, and even a couple of trains that ran through her village. We found this display to be a fitting history of this unusual woman’s life.
After a brief stop at the Harbor for refreshment and an interesting conversation with two young women who were starting their careers in the Halifax area, we moved further up the Harborwalk. A stop to watch some golfers trying to land a shot onto an island green in the bay and then a long walk to Halifax Casino, where high rollers and grannies were risking it all at the slot machines and blackjack tables. Sad to see them wasting such a beautiful day on their gambling adventures, but to each, his own.
It was now time for supper and we found a nice restaurant called Bluenose II, named after a local sailing ship. We beat the crowds and order a seafood platter full of fish, scallops, clams and shrimp. With potatoes and salad we were thoroughly stuffed at the end of the meal. Not a fancy place but food was excellent and service good.
We now worked our way back up Hollis Street past some nice architectural examples of Victorian and Georgian homes and a few art shops before arriving back at our hotel. It has been a good visit and now it is time to prepare for our return train excursion on the Ocean tomorrow.
Sunday June 14
Started the morning feeling a bit under the weather as my stomach needed some TLC. Claudia ran over to Tim Horton’s and returned with some breakfast. A nice sunny morning and after a shower and rest my health improved. Our train did not leave until noon but wanted to make sure our checked bag was taken care of and our hotel check out went smoothly. Enjoyed our staff at the Westin Nova Scotian and would highly recommend it for quality and convenience especially for those taking the train to Halifax.
The VIA station agents were very friendly and quickly checked our bags and reminded us of the lounge for sleeper passengers. But by the time we arrived there, all the seats were taken and we preferred to sit out in the station lobby and watch people. There would be another check-in for sleeper passengers similar to what happened in Montreal and this time I wanted to be at the front of the line….smile..
At 11:30 the attendants called for us to line up to have our tickets scanned and set up times for lunch. I was second in line but a woman with her daughter and grandchildren crowded in front and threw her tickets on the counter. To my amusement, it turned out her tickets were dated for the previous day..yes one would think embarrassment would set in..but she demanded that the mistake had been VIAs and that she expected to ride today and have access to the dome Park Car. The VIA agents were very accommodating considering the long line of passengers waiting for her mistake to be addressed. Finally they took her aside and those of us in line proceeded to check in.
We scheduled an early lunch and since we had the exact same room #10 Car 1538 as our first trip, we knew where we were going. Our excellent Park Car and Sleeping Car attendants were there waiting to welcome us back to the train. I was designated as Emergency Assistant again for our car and had time to take some photos of our new Park Car.. Evangeline Park. At 12 noon the All Aboard call came and we were told to head to the diner for first call for lunch. It was still a 10 car walk but now we are accustomed to the event.
Our favorite server was aboard as well along with a new young woman who I believe may have been on her first trip. We ordered the chicken penne pasta and had a delicious chicken soup to start the meal and that scrumptious sugar pie for dessert. My pasta needed a little extra time in the convection oven which is a down side to cooking these meals from frozen containers.
Across the hall from us were the grandma and her family who had caused such an uproar at the station. Turns out she had just paid for a short train ride from Halifax to Truro. (a 1.5 hour ride) in sleeper plus so she could ride in the Park Car. Of course by the time the group had eaten their lunch they had only a short time to ride in the Park Car before departing. And the little granddaughter did not like riding in the train and thus cried and carried on through much of the lunch. The good thing was they got off in Truro and then had someone pick them up to return them to Halifax. That was an expensive train ride…
After getting re-settled in our room, we moved to the Park Car for some more scenic views. Sadly this car also had very dirty forward windows and eliminated any good photos being taken ahead of the car. Kathy gave some of her programs on Acadians, tidal basins, etc. to the passengers who were all new except for us.. We did partake in the wine and cheese tasting this time and found the cheeses to be very good. Claudia tried the wines and found the white to be excellent while the red was a bit too strong, a view shared by most of the riders. Kathy had previously worked at a local winery and thus had some inside knowledge about the industry and the various brands.
It was a nice sunny day in the mid-70s and although much of the scenery was similar to our first trip, the ride was still a pleasurable one. Tidal rivers were running in with waters and we looked for some of the terrain changes that Kathy had mentioned in our last voyage.
Since I did not have time to view the head end of the train at Halifax, I did not initially notice that we now had three locomotives on our train. At our elongated stop at Moncton, I had time to run the length of the train and get some photos of our three locomotives. #6426 (GPA-30H) lead the way with # 6454 & # 6445 following. The second unit seemed to be smoking a bit and I wondered if perhaps it was having some mechanical problems that were addressed by having the extra unit on the train.
There seemed to be little freight traffic on our line and except for one delay our train ran within a half hour of on time throughout the day. We chose a 5pm dinner sitting and had beef tips, mashed red potatoes, veggies after an excellent lobster bisque soup appetizer and a chocolate dessert. Food was well prepared and hot. We traveled at full speed across New Brunswick arriving in Miramichi around 6:15pm and Bathhurst at 8pm. We now would be able to watch the sunset over Bay de Chaleur as our train moved into the darkness. We stayed awake until Campbellton and then had Janet put down the beds for some rest.
Monday June 15
I awoke early and prepared to move to the Park Car so I could see our move across the bridge to St Foy, Quebec. It was 4:30am but the sun was up on this early morning. We were stopped at the CN yards near Charny waiting for clearance and I had some concerns since our train had lost more time in the night and was now running 45 minutes down. Since we had a very tight connection to Train #63 in Montreal, I hoped we would not lose more time. While sitting in the yards I found CN #7275 (GP-9) and yard slug 220 (old GP 9) waiting for assignments as well as CN #4787 (GP-38-2W) sitting near the tower. #7200 and 7220 (more old GP-9) farther up the track. Not sure if CN is using these as yard power or they are waiting to be scrapped.?
We finally begin our move on the branch line across the great bridge over the St Lawrence River and glad I awoke early to see the crossing. Not as much passenger movement at our end of the train but I suspect there were numerous coach passengers boarding, even at this early hour. I was able to go out on the platform for a brief time while one of the trainmen moved to our Park Car for the reverse move over the bridge and back to the main line.
As we sat waiting for a signal to proceed westbound, the clock was ticking. Kathy had checked with the Montreal agents and they said our #63 would be on the platform next to our Ocean arrival and a platform transfer may be necessary. We continued to be stopped or slowed by freight traffic and were running an hour late by the time we reached Drummondville. There was another VIA train leaving for Toronto and stopping in Cobourg after noon today so we could still reach our destination if necessary on this other train, but Business Class may be full and it might be a coach ride via Ottawa again.
At 6 am Claudia and I went up for breakfast and I opted for the notorious cheese omelet and fruit. It actually was not that bad and only slightly worse than the Amtrak omelet. Claudia had the blueberry pancakes but they were not up to standards and a bit cold. The old dilemma of convection cooking for some dishes remains. We said goodbye to the dining car crew and wished that Amtrak could clone these people for their staffs.
Kathy located a nice VIA hat pin for my collection but it looked like we would not have time to buy any memorabilia in Montreal with our close connection time. As we entered St Hyacinthe, our train was still running behind, but again the crew said they thought we would make it and our baggage would be transferred directly to Train #63 without a problem.
It was looking better as we arrived in St Lambert around 9:30am and started crossing the bridge to Montreal. We passed CN 7015 (GP9Rn) sitting on a siding waiting for us to pass so maybe we were finally getting some respect (smile). Some nice scenic views of Montreal as we are packed up and ready for a quick departure when we arrive at Gare Montreal. The AMT locos start to appear: #1354 on our left and we then enter the station. It is now 10am and we had 10 minutes to spare…whew~!
Say goodbye to Janet and Kathy and wish them well as we start down the platform and see our Car 6301 waiting. The car attendants check our tickets and we board. Looks like everyone has been sitting for a while as we are the only passengers filling the last double seat on this new business car. This car has single seats on one side and looks much nicer than the one we rode eastbound last week. We are in Seats 11A&B but when we get to the seats someone is sitting in them. The gentleman asks if we are seat 11, I say yes and he apologizes for taking our seat and moves across the aisle. Apparently there is a tour group from England and this person was hoping he could occupy our seats if not filled. O.K. at least it wasn’t like the Lake Shore where you need to threaten someone to get them to move out of your seat.
We put our luggage away and watch as the luggage wagons are moving quickly down the platform to get the suitcases transferred. Hope ours in one of them..smile. We are welcomed in French and English to Train 63 heading for Toronto and precisely at 10:10am our train leaves the station. A quick ride out to Dorval and then it is time for more hot towels, wine, snacks, before the luncheon menu. We are on time into Cornwall, Brockville and Kingston and the conversations among the English travelers is interesting as they are going to ride the Canadian across the country out of Toronto tonight. They had stayed a few days visiting Quebec and Montreal and were looking forward to their western adventures.
I had the low fat special diet meal which consisted of a chicken and rice dish with some type of lentels, lots of fruit and vegetables. Claudia had the beef dish with veggies and a chocolate dessert. More chocolate was distributed after the meal. We remained on time for every station the remainder of the trip. At 2:20 we arrived at our destination in Cobourg, Ontario on Track 1; so no trek over the walkway this time. There were only two bags checked from our train so the attendant did a quick look at our baggage tag and we were on our way to the car. Everything was fine and we loaded the luggage. Took some photos of our locomotive #916 as it left the station on its way to Toronto.
Our Canadian railfan friends were all waiting down at the west end of the track in their usual spot. We went down to say hi and were introduced to some new guys we had not met. We talked about our great trip and thanked them for keeping an eye on our car. Watched trains for an hour or so and filmed some CP action on the adjoining track. Then it was time to say goodbye. Some of them come to Ohio to railfan and hoping we will see them again sometime this summer or fall.
We decided to go over to our hotel at the Comfort Inn and check in before looking for a place to eat. Same congenial staff welcomed us back and we had a room across the hall from our former room. Freshen up a bit and then head downtown looking for sights and food. But unfortunately, most of the downtown restaurants are not open on Monday nights so after walking the streets for an hour or so and checking out the TV crew filming a PBS documentary on the courthouse grounds, we drove out to the mall area.
Our choice for this evening was a place called the Swiss Chalet. They specialized in chicken dishes and had a limited menu. It was a decent place to eat, food was good, but not much atmosphere. Wish we had returned to Mario’s for some good pasta. After dinner, we drove back downtown to walk the pier and go over to Victoria Park to watch some beach volleyball. A very nice park and beach with many campers parked right along the walk to the beach. Walked up to an ice cream store for a strawberry cone and did a quick tour around this quaint little town. They have several festivals during the year which we may partake in someday. Back to the hotel to watch some TV before retiring early. A long day of driving is in store tomorrow.
Tuesday June 16.
We awake and go downstairs for breakfast and then plot our course to get through Toronto. We decided to wait until 9 to avoid the majority of the rush hour traffic and then head west on Rt. 401 to Rt. 12 at Whitby and then catch Rt. 7 over to the 407 toll road. An easy drive with just a little traffic. 407 is again a nice ride and we stay on the road until we reach the QEW highway at Hamilton. Across the Skyway Bridge and heading for Fort Erie. We stop for a sandwich at Wendy’s and then prepare to cross the border into Buffalo over the Peace Bridge. There are six lanes open for US Border inspection, but it seems like the lane we are in is not moving at all. Lots of lane cutting by those used to this circus. After a half hour mostly sitting our line finally moves and when we arrive at the station we are asked a few quick questions, give them our passports, and he says o.k. to go. Stop for gas and then enter the NY Thruway to Pennsylvania and then down I-79. Hoping to stop at some antique malls but two are closed on Tuesdays so we head for home on I-80. Arrive back home around 7pm and say hello to Mr. Gato, who is waiting for his usual ear rubbing and treats.
Evaluation of the Trip: It is a long 500 mile trip from our home to Cobourg and probably if we had more time we would break that up into a two day drive. Cobourg is a nice town to use as a base for VIA travel with most commuter trains stopping there between Toronto and Montreal. Leaving the car there while traveling seemed safe. Business class on those trains is definitely the way to go if you can arrange for a good fare. Food was excellent, lots of amenities, staff top notch. The Ocean is a nice train and we enjoyed the trip. The staff members were first class in all departments, the rooms were a bit small, but certainly doable for a single traveler. We liked Car 38 for its convenience to the Park Car, but it was a very long walk to the diner and for WiFi access in the lounge car. Food on the train was mostly good. The convection oven cooking worked most of the time and the menu items were certainly far above anything you can get on Amtrak. The diner setup was also excellent where you had a choice to dine alone or with others. The trip had some interesting scenery but also long stretches where there was nothing but trees. Please VIA clean the front windows on the Park Car, a very noticeable negative to the ride. The programs in the Park Car were very interesting. Halifax is a great city to visit and there are many events and museums, quaint restaurants and fine seafood. At our age, I doubt that we would ride the Ocean again, but certainly would visit New Brunswick and Nova Scotia via ferry from Portland, Maine or driving our car through the area. We look forward to traveling on The Canadian across Canada in the near future and perhaps some of the branch lines that exist as well.
