[SIZE=14pt]Amtrak Summer Western Trip 2015[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14pt]Cleveland-Chicago-Denver-Wyoming-South Dakota Montana Denver-Chicago-Cleveland[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14pt]August 24-September 2, 2015[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Monday August 24[/SIZE][SIZE=12pt]After months of planning and some last minute changes due to extreme weather conditions in the West, we were off to Cleveland on a rainy Monday morning for our next Amtrak adventure. Amtrak Capitol Ltd #29 was on time into Pittsburgh and we hoped for a similar situation in Cleveland. We found a good parking spot under a light and luckily the rain stopped as we unloaded and entered the station. A new agent was behind the desk, an older gentleman who reminded me of one of the porters in a long ago remembered Pullman car. The other agent was the younger man we had met on some previous trips. Both were friendly as we checked on train status and found that 29 had found some freights near Alliance and was now running over an hour behind schedule. Such is life on Amtrak. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]The Cleveland station had its regular array of travelers, from Amish to seniors to young travelers with their backpacks, all waiting for the train to somewhere. One lady seemed to be hyped up on something and she continued to talk for the next hour about her life, Amtrak’s poor performance, and her need to have a smoke.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]She started going from passenger to passenger giving out Amtrak’s phone number so that everyone would call in and complain about the late train. She tried to convince everyone that we would all get a “free trip” if we called. When she got to us, after we had moved outside to get some “fresh air”, I informed her that it was highly unlikely that anyone would get any free trip and that only vouchers would be provided if Amtrak thought it was justified. I explained to her that a train that was an hour late did not qualify. She did not like that answer and moved on to other passengers. Most of our fellow travelers just rolled their eyes and left her to her projects. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]As we were waiting, an announcement from the intercom noted that we needed to come to the desk. I was hoping nothing serious had happened, but was greatly encouraged when the agent said he had good news. The conductor on 29 had looked at his manifest and determined that we were doing the “Toledo Shuffle” due to riding on Guest Rewards tickets and he called to say our bedroom was unoccupied and that we could see him at the sleeper and could go immediately to our room. Wahooo!!. That is the first time in all of our CL rides that we were able to get an early start on the sleeper room and not do the “Shuffle”. A good start to what would be a great train trip. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]The rain had stopped and after watching the agents get the baggage cart ready for the platform, I surmised that our train was nearby. Ah, yes, the sound of P-42s whistle and headlights in the distance gave us the confidence that our train was flying into the station, albeit over an hour late. Our head loco was P-42 #201 but our HEP engine was an old P-32-8 #514. It is obvious that the locomotive fleet is under pressure with all the accidents and electrical failures in the aging engines. We did have one of the brand new baggage cars.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We waited at the door of our sleeper and the conductor said to go on up as he scanned our two sets of tickets. Up the stairs to Room E, Car 2901, where the beds were ready for the tired travelers. It was now after 4am, but still time to catch a couple of hours of sleep before breakfast would be served at 6:30. Our car was a refurbed Superliner 1 and was in pretty good shape with nice bathroom, carpets in good shape and no rattling doors. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Since I am always a bit hyped when we get on the train, I stayed up and watched our train cross the Cuyahoga Bridge and move out past the airport on a starry night. But I finally succumbed to exhaustion and crawled up in the top bunk after Elyria. Next thing I remember is arriving in Toledo and being glad we were in our beds instead of running up the platform from our coach to the sleeper (Toledo Shuffle). Thank you, Mr. Conductor.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We arrived in Toledo around 6:30, now an hour and half late. The big bus to Michigan was waiting for its passengers to shuttle them off to Detroit and Ann Arbor and those who were boarding were now encouraged to move quickly as the train would be ready to leave as soon as a new conductor and engineer were aboard. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We decided to get up and go down to breakfast and also met our SCA Dave V, who was a nice guy and asked if we wanted our beds put up for the day. We said yes and headed for the diner. We were seated with Mary in the CCC car and our server was Paula. I ordered the cheese omelet and croissant while wife had the same with grits. This was probably the worst omelet I have been served since it was a small mass of egg and stringy cheese. Wife’s grits were not fixed properly, which was also a first for her since she usually loves Amtrak grits. So other than a good conversation and a personable staff, it was not one our better breakfasts. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We worked our way back to our sleeper and Dave had everything back in day mode with water and clean towels and coffee brewing in the hall. I did my regular restroom check downstairs and they were in great shape, a sure sign that the SCA is doing his/her job. We talked of the changes about to occur in Guest Rewards and that we would probably no longer participate in the Toledo Shuffle. He laughed and said that was a good thing.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We arrived in Waterloo, Indiana around 8am still running 90 minutes down. A few Amish passengers boarded here and off we went. Another hour and we were in Elkhart. Always like to see the freight and passenger cars at the NY Central museum on the south side of the tracks. A lot of freight traffic along the way, but not losing any more time. Arrived in South Bend about 8:30 and only a few passengers detraining here. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Lots of NS action in the steel yards as we moved closer to Chicago. It was a nice sunny day, but a bit windy as we passed the Amtrak yards and into the dark tunnel of Union Station. There were quite a few locomotives in the yard including #s 837, #29, #127, #157, #100, #134, #517 & #594. Several new baggage cars and some old heritage bags ready for the bone yard. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We said goodbye to Dave and walked past the loud locomotives into the station and down the hall to the Metro Lounge. The attendants were friendly and told us to be back for boarding our California Zephyr by 1pm. The lounge was relatively empty. We checked our bags in the Red Cap Room and decided that since it was already 10:30 we would pass on our original plan to ride the Architectural Tour Boat on the Chicago River and just do some walking downtown. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We first walked over to the Great Hall to see the new Legacy Club lounge. An attendant at the door welcomed us in and said he would give us a tour and that I could take pictures. A very impressive, visually pleasing series of rooms with nice furniture and chandeliers and TVs on the walls. There was no one in the lounge-not one soul, as our guide showed us the separate sitting room with its cool lighting. It was $20 each to use the lounge and he noted there was going to be a membership arrangement whereby the overall costs would be lower. I can see where some people would like this more elegant seating and quiet compared to the Metro Lounge, but I am not sure we will pay the $40 for the two of us to utilize it. We thanked the gentleman for the tour and moved out to Jackson St for our walkabout.. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Decided to go over to the Harold Washington Library to see the building with the ornate architecture that we view each time we ride the EL. They were having an art show called “Chicago On Parade” by Christopher Tuscan. We enjoyed his unusual depictions of various characters he found on the streets and met a friendly library employee who gave us the directions to see various parts of the library. What a huge place compared to the little library I worked at in our town. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]It was now time for lunch and unfortunately we waited too long and found a long line at the Potbelly Sandwich Shop on Adams where we like to sit, eat, and watch boats on the river. We opted instead for a Panera Bread nearby without a big line and I had my mac & cheese while wife had the bagel & cream cheese. We enjoyed watching boats on the river and then headed back to the Metro Lounge to retrieve our baggage and wait for the boarding call for #5.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Speaking of engine problems, it was announced that there would be a delay in departure of the CZ since one of the locomotives had electrical issues and would need to be replaced. So we waited until nearly 2:30 before we were ushered out to Track 24 and our waiting train. We found Car 532 near the rear of the train and our SCA Kenny waiting to say hello. CZ sleepers are at the rear instead of front as with many Amtrak trains. 32069 was our car number and found it was the last number for Superliner 1 cars and was once called Seneca Rocks. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We moved upstairs to Bedroom D and got settled. Since we were running late, I did not have time to run up to check out our locomotives. I did eventually determine that our head engine was P-42 #93 and #77 was doing HEP service. At 2:48 we started moving, past the Amtrak yards and around the big curve heading west. Kenny came up to say hi and asked if we needed anything. He saw my Amtrak hat and pins and determined we were veteran riders. He was a personable guy and proved to be an excellent SCA. Our first stop was Naperville where a few passengers boarded, but we moved quickly through the Chicago suburbs and on to Princeton, maintaining our 60 minute deficit throughout the remainder of the trip to Denver. Lots of BNSF freights on sidings and on the other main track as we enjoyed the trip on this beautiful sunny day. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We had a reservation for 5pm in the diner and as we passed through Galesburg, the call came for supper. We were seated with Marshall & Janice from Texas who were going to Denver to visit friends and relatives. He was a former rancher in Wyoming before their move to Texas. We enjoyed a good steak dinner over conversations about train riding. Our dining car crew was excellent and efficient in getting everything to us timely and hot. We returned to our room and watched as we crossed the Mississippi River at Burlington, Iowa.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]A nice suspension bridge up river as we cross an old style railroad bridge that was rebuilt in 1892. It was a through- truss bridge with a swing span that was originally built by the CB&Q RR back in 1868. In 2012 BNSF replaced two of the spans and put in a lift to replace the swing bridge. According to railroad records the bridge lifts 300 times each month to allow river traffic to pass. We stop in Burlington, still an hour late, around 6:30pm and see lots of BNSF action in the yards. A MVPX switcher sat waiting its next order as well. Some predecessor line Santa Fe and Burlington Northern units were also working the yards. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Our next stop was Mt Pleasant, Iowa around 7 pm and then the long awaited (by the smokers) stop in Ottumwa at 8pm. Crews change here and so there was a little time to walk the platform and get some fresh air. We see Burlington Junction RR Loco #714, an old GP-7 sitting in the yards in its red color scheme. Talked to Kenny a few minutes and enjoy the sunset as the call to board means it’s time to jump back on the train and head west. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]It had been a long day and we had Kenny put our beds down around 9pm. I thought I could stay awake until we got to Omaha, but soon discovered by body was still on Eastern Time and it was way past my bedtime. Good night.. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Tuesday August 25[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]It was a tough night of sleeping as the tracks across Nebraska were rough. We awoke around 5:30 just east of Ft Morgan, CO and went down for showers and then to the diner for breakfast. We joined Steve and Margaret from New Zealand for breakfast. They had traveled across the country, up the east coast and now were returning to California where they would fly back to NZ. They told of their experiences in the larger US cities and their train rides in Australian. The omelets were back to quality on the CZ and wife had the French toast which was also very good. Our dining car crew was cheerful and made the experience a very positive one to start our day. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We were now about 90 minutes late as we made our way into the suburbs of Denver. Lots of BNSF traffic and many locos at the engine service buildings. We started our backup move into Denver Union Station and had a chance to see the new construction at the platforms. Large white dome architecture and nicely paved walkways and new tracks with concrete ties. We arrived in Denver at 8:30 am MDT and moved into the station. Quite an impressive change since our last visit a year ago. The modern Crawford Hotel complex with multi-story balconies and beautiful lighting certainly add to the ambiance of this classic station. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We phoned our Enterprise Car Rental office and they sent someone over to pick us up. We were given a nice Chrysler 300 with push button everything and a huge trunk. After checking the maps, we were off for Golden, Colorado and our first stop at the Colorado RR Museum. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Traffic was heavy on I-25 and I-70 but managed to get to the museum complex around 10am. An impressive display of railroad memorabilia and a very nice model railroad layout on the lower floor. We then went outside to view a wide array of steam engines, rolling stock, MOW equipment on a 15 acre site that has a roundhouse, turntable and tons of railroad history. Narrow & standard gauge from Denver & Rio Grande, CB&Q, C&NW, Union Pacific and many other roadnames. On weekends they have train rides and a garden scale railroad is operational. Only $8 admission and well worth the price. We spent a couple of hours here enjoying the day which was quickly becoming quite hot. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Started back east and stopped at the Brass Armadillo Antique Mall where I found a lantern for my collection. Lunch at Burger King and then north to Fort Collins for some sightseeing and train watching. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We stopped at the Wyoming Welcome Center and found some nice displays on state history and plenty of handouts on attractions. Back onto I-25 for a brief ride up to Cheyenne where we encountered lots of Union Pacific freights just a few hundred feet from our hotel. We stayed at a nice Hampton Inn on the old Lincoln Hwy Rt. 30 and ate at the Outback Steak House across the street. I do believe the steak on Amtrak was better than the one I had that evening. We drove around town until the sunset signaled our move back to the hotel. After a couple of nights without a good sleep, we enjoyed the nice beds that did not move. Some TV watching and it was time for sleep. Good night. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Wednesday August 26. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We started our day with a good breakfast at the Hampton Inn and then headed north on I-25 for what would be a long day of sightseeing and train watching. Since the speed limit in Wyoming is 80 mph we were zooming up the road at a good pace. When we reached Chugwater, we started encountering a train line operated by BNSF running parallel to the highway and with a large amount of freight traffic. About 100 miles north of Cheyenne we turned onto US 26 and began our study of the Oregon Trail, Mormon Trail near Guernsey, WY. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We found several historical markers designating the route and history of these pioneer pathways. Stopped at places where the wagon grooves still existed from those 19th century voyages and where settlers have inscribed their names in the rocks above. The Pony Express also traveled this route and had a stop at Fort Laramie. A significant BNSF yard facility and engine house also was located near Guernsey. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We then traveled to Fort Laramie for an interesting tour of this military site developed in the 1840s. A good film documented the history of the fort and its importance to the relationship between the Indians, settlers and military for the next 40 years. We visited several of the buildings and got a private tour from one of the reenactors who showed us some areas generally closed to visitors. It was about 95 outside and although we drank a lot of water, it was still getting very hot. So after a two hour visit we decided to return to I-25 and head north toward Douglas, WY. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Train activity continued to be heavy as we approached the southern end of the great Powder River coal fields. A stop in Douglas for lunch and then we turned north on SR 59 which brought us into the main arena for coal mining and rail transport. The main line weaved its way back and forth across our roadway and there were numerous opportunities for photos. Four tracks shared by BNSF & Union Pacific railroads provided multitudes of 125 car coal trains both loaded and empty. Except for jack rabbits, antelope and some deer, the area is devoid of civilization as there are no towns except for a small spot in the road named BILL. There is a general store, a post office and a modern looking diner named Penny’s across the road. There is a hotel behind the diner called the Oak Tree Inn, which I suspect is where train crews have their rest. BILL is a major rail yard facility as well as being near oil well operations in the area. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We drove on northward into the Thunder Basin National Grasslands and continued to see large mining operations, and lots of trains. Just south of Wright we turned eastward on Rt. 450 which brought us to one of the largest coal fields in the world. Thunder Basin had numerous coal loading towers and large surface mining operations along the highway. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]It was now close to 5pm and we still had about 75 miles to go to our hotel in Custer SD so we left the rail facilities and headed east toward South Dakota. The town of Newcastle is an oasis in the eastern grasslands and provided an opportunity to gas up and find a Walmart for supplies. We then drove into South Dakota and a very scenic ride into the Black Hills. We reached Custer and our Comfort Inn around 6pm. Found a little Pizza Hut downtown and enjoyed our seat at the window watching the traffic on the town streets. Each corner had a cowboy boot painted with some historical event and we looked forward to exploring a bit of the town before we left for Mt Rushmore tomorrow. The hotel was very nice and would recommend staying there if you are visiting the Black Hills. Good night. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Thursday August 27[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]After an excellent breakfast at the Comfort Inn, we drove out to some of the rock shops in town so wife could satisfy her lapidary interests. Several of them had some fine specimens and even some Indian memorabilia. Stopped at the old depot where a Burlington Northern caboose was located along a bike trail that was once the CB&Q right of way through the Black Hills. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We now drive north on Rt. 16 to the Crazy Horse Monument located about 10 miles to the north. This impressive sculpture was started back in 1948 by Korczak Ziolkowski and after many years of work, progress toward finishing the arm and horse still goes on. The museum, shops, and displays in the many buildings on the site are quite impressive and still controlled today by the family. We spent almost four hours there looking at the extensive collection of Indian artifacts and handicraft works. Had lunch on the grounds and enjoyed the experience.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We next drove along Rt. 244 through some spectacular scenery to the Mt Rushmore Memorial. It was special to be able to see this historic place in person and appreciate the enormity of the task involved in its construction. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Our next stop was Keystone, SD where we rode the 1880 Steam Train through the valley to Hill City, SD. Some nicely restored coaches and a collection of steamers made this an interesting trip. Our locomotive was #110, A 2-6-6-2T articulated Mallet built by Baldwin Locomotive Works in 1928. It is the only one of its kind still operating anywhere in the world. We traveled along a route once used by the Burlington to service mining camps and lumber facilities along the valley and in nearby mountains. Our trip to Hill City took about an hour and then after watering our engine and boarding new passengers, we started back up the long grade toward Keystone on our return. We arrived back at Keystone around 5pm and enjoyed the trip back into history. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Decided to drive the Old Hill City Road which follows the railroad line and enjoy the scenery from the car as well. A nice drive that covered some areas where the train did not venture. Spent a little time driving around Hill City, but decided we needed to move on as we still had over fifty miles to get to Spearfish and our hotel for the evening. A nice drive along the scenic Rt. 385 as we view mountains and streams along the way. Arrived in Deadwood around 6pm and decided to come back tomorrow to visit. We arrived in Spearfish around 7pm and found the Hampton Inn to be a friendly and nice place. Drove over to Roma’s Italian Restaurant and had a great lasagna for dinner. Back to the hotel for a restful evening after a long day of exploring the Black Hills. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Friday August 28 [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]After another great Hampton Inn breakfast, we drove back to Deadwood, SD to spend the morning exploring this historic western town. We parked at the old Fremont, Elkhorn & Missouri Valley Depot that had been refurbed and also served as a Chamber of Commerce office. We decided to follow part of the walking tour and found many old buildings with historic plaques, stepped in to some of the numerous casinos that pervade Main Street and enjoy the sunny, but very warm morning. We found a couple of antique malls, an old Texaco station that had been converted to a coffee house, some neat old hotels, and of course, lots of t-shirt shops that especially catered to the Harley fans who come here in droves when the Sturgis Motorcycle festival is held in early August. Located a store with a great model railroad display in the basement. The lady sitting at the top of the stairs looked like Miss Kitty from Gunsmoke. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We were taken in by the building where Wild Bill Hickok was killed, our guide being a bit bewildered by our questions.. As we learned, much of Deadwood had been destroyed by several fires and that only a few of the current buildings date into the 19th century. But it was still a good morning to view the town. We did not stay into the afternoon for the gunfights since we had miles to go before we slept again.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We especially wanted to take the Spearfish Canyon Scenic Hwy and thus grabbed our car and headed south and then northeast through this beautiful drive along Spearfish Creek. Rt. 14A was a delight to drive as we saw high cliffs, waterfalls, and some old historic buildings along the former right of way of the Burlington RR. [/SIZE]
In 1893, the Grand Island & Wyoming Railroad Line opened Spearfish Canyon for the first time. The line consisted of three hundred and seventy five curves of sheer up and downhill climbing. In all, the thirty-two mile 'Spearfish Spur' left Deadwood, rose 1,886 feet in six miles to Trojan (then known as Portland), then down 2,778 feet in twenty-five miles spanning thirty-three bridges to Spearfish. Shortly after its construction, the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Railroad bought the line for $2-Million.
After an hour enjoying the scenery we ended up in Spearfish and had lunch before moving westward back to Wyoming. We stopped in Sundance, hoping that Robert Redford might be roaming the streets, but alas, he was out of town, so we drove up another scenic road Rt. 14 toward Devil’s Tower, our next destination. The smoke from the western fires was more prevalent today and it was difficult to get a clear view of the edifice from a distance. But as came closer, the air cleared and we were able to get some nice photos of this large monument that is sacred to Indian cultures. (And also to sci-fi fans who enjoyed Close Encounters movie). We decided to get a National Park pass for $10 which is a bargain for seniors to visit all the national parks and monuments across the country.
Drove up the winding path to the park headquarters where several tour buses were loading passengers from many countries after a morning of exploring and hiking around the rock. Several groups from Japan and some eastern Europeans were part of the tour groups. We decided that at 97 degrees it was way too hot to do much hiking this afternoon and opted to walk up to the base and watch several climbers edging their way slowly up the steep slope. We read about the lore associated with this monument and sat in the shade sipping some liquid refreshment before deciding to head down the hill to the highway. We found several cars stopped in the valley watching a large prairie dog town in action. Several of the critters came out to the car for photo ops.
It was now getting late in the afternoon, so we took another scenic route past Keyhole Lake and back to I-90 at Moorcroft, WY. We had another 30 miles to reach Gillette, which is at the northern end of the great Powder River coal mining areas. Saw lots of BNSF action as we passed over the north-south lines, but decided that chasing trains would be left for another day. A stop for gas and a sandwich at Wendys, then another 70 miles across the Wyoming grasslands to our destination at Buffalo, WY Hampton Inn. I was anxious to see the hotel since it had such high ratings from all who stayed there. We were welcomed at the desk by friendly clerks and given a nice room on the top floor. The grounds around the hotel were landscaped into a park setting and a nice pool, exercise room, etc. were also present. Glad we decided to stay here two nights and use the hotel as a base for the next two days of exploring.
We decided to look for someplace have ice cream, but found the restaurant offerings somewhat lacking. Since we were not that hungry, we stopped at Mickey Ds for a sundae. The place was filled with a junior high football team that had just won their game and coaches were treating them for some sandwiches. Reminded me of my teaching days and coaching junior high basketball kids who went through pizzas like Grant took Richmond..smile. Drove around the little town and found some interesting old buildings that we would explore later. Now it was time to rest and get ready for the trip to Montana tomorrow. Good night.
Saturday August 29
Another Hampton Inn breakfast and we were off on our northbound trip to Little Big Horn on I-90. We followed several BNSF coal trains running along the highway and past Sheridan, WY where we planned to stop on our return trip. The forecast was for temps near 100 this afternoon so made our way to the park and arrived around 10am. We walked around the National Cemetery nearby and then listened to a very interesting ranger talk on the battlefield and events leading to the confrontation on the hill behind us. We had hoped to see a new bronze bust of Custer that was commissioned to my old high school friend who is a well know sculptor, but it was in storage waiting for a display case to arrive. That was a real disappointment!!
We bought tickets for the air conditioned van tour of the battlefield and awaited its 11am departure. A Crow Indian lady was the tour leader and she gave a very interesting interpretation of events of the battles. We drove out to the Reno and Benteen battlefield operations and saw the markers for where many soldiers and Indians remains were found across the five mile path of destruction. After returning from the hour long tour we ventured up the hill to the Last Stand site and also a monument and display for the Indians who participated in the event. It was so hot that any further walking had to be curtailed, but we felt we had an excellent interpretation from both sides of the issue.
Hunger was setting in but there were few places to eat in the area around the battlefield. We decided to drive north to the town of Hardin, Montana where we found a nice depot with a rail car decorated for the 1964 Montana Territorial Celebration. Found an unusual looking McDonalds for lunch and then since it was already after 2pm, we decided to head back to Wyoming and stop in Sheridan for the remainder of the afternoon. At the town of Ranchester there was a marker for the Connor Battlefield, a confrontation between troops from Fort Laramie and Arapaho Indians in the 1860s. They were sent to guard the Bozeman Trail nearby for the ever increasing bands of settlers moving west. After initial victories the army was forced to build a fort and came under constant attack by Indians.
We moved south to Sheridan where we found some old steam engine displays and a nice rail yard full of BNSF trains. The depot was having an art exhibition, so wife took in the art while I shot photos of coal trains. We then located the downtown which had several interesting buildings and some nice restaurants. Knowing the food selections in Buffalo were a bit slim, we decided to have dinner at Frackelton’s Restaurant, a nice place with a varied menu. We selected some pasta dishes and enjoyed the view from the front window. After dinner we walked the city and found many bronze statues depicting western characters, an old theatre and many historic markers. A nice place to spend some time if you are in the area.
It was now getting late and we took off down I-90 and stopped at Fetterman Battlefield site where US troops were ambushed by Indians on a hilly trail. We also stopped at Fort Phil Kearney site, but park was closing and did not have time to look at the monuments there. Back to the interstate and to our room at Buffalo Hampton. A long day of looking at history, trains and a nice dinner in Sheridan. Resting up for the long drive tomorrow back to Cheyenne. Good night.
Sunday August 30
Up early and down for breakfast as we prepare to leave on our southbound journey back to Cheyenne. We stop by downtown Buffalo to check out the Occidental Hotel (Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid once slept here..) A beautiful old hotel with classic furnishings, chandeliers and a broad staircase to the rooms upstairs. Rooms were $200/night, but might be worth a stay just for the ambiance. Several other historic buildings in the center city and some restaurants we missed on our initial trip.
But it was time to move down I-25 to Casper a 100 mile voyage through the Wyoming high country. No trains running today? We arrive in Casper and decided to stop at BK for a sandwich and then explore this large city. Stop at Fort Casper park where a replica of the old fort and some Indian teepees were waiting for visitors. Found an antique mall to check out the wares and then to the large BNSF offices in the former depot. Some engines sitting on sidings and a lone freight moving out of the yards. Someone was attempting to refurb some old coaches CEFX rental units 3185 & 3134 in brilliant blue were also sitting waiting for their next lashup. And a LoraM rail car set was also ready for Monday morning work.
We then moved to Douglas where we enjoyed a stop at the Douglas Railroad Interpretive Center. A nice lot of rolling stock including a 4-8-4 CB&Q steamer, several freight cars, Great Northern Empire Builder sleeping car, a CB&Q dining car, Union Pacific baggage car, an 1884 C&NW coach and many more railroad related items. Some nice docents told us about the park and we received an official JackaLope Pin commemorating the giant statue in front of the depot. Smile… The depot was also a former Fremont, Elkhorn & Missouri Valley RR similar to the one found back in Deadwood. It was now almost 3pm and time to leave Douglas and head down to Orin Jct. in hopes of seeing the giant Y where coal trains made their moves in and out of the Powder River Basin fields. But we were surprised that there were no trains, not one, moving as apparently the coal loading facilities are closed down on Sundays.
We still had 120 miles to go before arriving in Cheyenne, where we stayed at the Hampton visited on our trip last Tuesday. We found some UP freights moving on the main line, but it was time to find the mall and look for some food. Located an Applebees for some pasta dishes and perused the downtown again as darkness set in. Tomorrow we will spend the morning visiting sites in Cheyenne before our drive back to Denver to catch our train. It was a long drive today, but we saw some interesting history and a few trains too. Good night.
Monday August 31
Our last day of the western land adventure began with a run out to the east side of Cheyenne to check out some noted train watching areas. But did not see much and decided to move back into town and stop at some antique malls and then to city park where the great UP Big Boy 4004 was on display. There were 25 of these humongous steam engines built for Union Pacific between 1941 and 1944 to cover the mountainous territory in Wyoming and Utah. They are 4-8-8-4 articulated (two engines in one). There are eight surviving Big Boys, seven on static displays in parks across America and the 4014 which is being restored to make it operational someday. While at the park we met a couple from Carrollton, Ohio who had driven across the country on vacation. We talked about Amtrak and trains in general and later saw them at the Depot Museum.
We also found a display of an old French rail car donated to states in the US by the French government in 1949 to thank Americans for helping in World War 2. Forty men or eight horses could be housed in this small freight car. I believe my father may have ridden in one of these cars during the war on his way to the German front.
We spent the remainder of the morning at the Cheyenne Depot Museum where 80 trains a day pass by the platforms. The depot has been elegantly restored both inside and out and has an excellent museum, model railroad display, and railfan observation deck among its other attributes. We spent two hours there and then stopped for lunch before checking out the Lions Park where another nice steam engine was located. Union Pacific 1242 built in1890 was the last coal burning steam engine operating in Wyoming. A 4-6-0 American built in New Jersey and used on some logging railroads before running on UP lines in 1921.
After a few more minutes watching UP action on the old Lincoln Hwy Rt. 30 we decided it was time to head back to Denver. A thunderstorm was brewing and we ran into bouts of rain on our 100 mile trip back to Denver. Dropped our car back at Enterprise and they took us over to the Union Station around 5pm. Checked our large bag at the Amtrak office and then enjoyed the scenery of the beautiful station.
We had an interesting encounter with a young man who had Asperger’s and he spent the next hour or so explaining to us his journeys in life at a rather rapid rate of speed. He was a nice guy and we certainly respected his life long battle to cope. He would be heading to Chicago with us and then on the Cardinal to Indianapolis.
At 6:30 we were told it was o.k. to move to the boarding platform since our California Zephyr had been on time into Fraser and was expected to arrive within a few minutes. Of course with all Amtrak announcements, there may be a glitch in the system. Turns out a MOW crew decided to work on the tracks around Moffett Tunnel and therefore; delayed our train for an hour. Luckily the rain had stopped and so sitting out on the covered platform was not a real issue.
The Cripple Creek private rail car was being readied and I suspected it might be attached to our CZ 6 after it arrived, which of course would delay our train even longer. #6 finally arrived around 7:30 pm and after detraining several passengers and the need to ready some of the sleeping car rooms, we eventually boarded Car 632 Room D about 7:50. Our sleeping car was Superliner 1 #32065
We were told to go to the diner for our dinner meal by our SCA, P.J. and so we moved forward and met our dinner companions, Doris and her daughter Jeanette, an Amish family who had been visiting near Colorado Springs and would be riding to Chicago and then an Illinois Service train to Carbondale. We shared our stories about trains and the large Amish community in our hometown.
They were familiar with our Holmes County Amish and we enjoyed steaks and cheesecake as our train first pulled forward and then back into the siding track to pick up the Cripple Creek car.
We finally left Denver around 8:15pm and after finishing our meal we moved back to our room. P.J. was familiar to us as we had her for some other Amtrak trips out west. She is finishing her 36th year and will retire in October. She said she has seen a lot of changes over those years, but she will be glad to retire and enjoy life in Chicago.
We lost more time as we reached Fort Morgan and were nearly two hours down now, so after a long day we decided to get into our bunks and try to sleep. We would lose some relative time after passing into Nebraska and back to Central Time so Good Night.
Tuesday September 1
We awoke as we entered Lincoln, Nebraska around 6am, now nearly 2.5 hours down. Took showers and headed to the diner for breakfast. We sat with a couple of sisters from north of Ottumwa, Iowa who had been to California to visit their brother. Ruth and Helen were a joy and we talked about trains and their life in Iowa. Said they had never met Radar O’Reilly, a standing joke with Ottumwa residents. I had a good omelet and wife, the French toast. Both were excellent and our server Kathryn and her crew were friendly and efficient. There was a problem with the orange juice which had a strange taste that everyone at our table rejected.
We arrived in Omaha around 7am and most people got off for some fresh air amid the smokers fumes. The nice station there is being rehabbed and had lots of plastic around the corners of the building. No time to go inside or check out our locomotives. We made up some time with a quick stop, but then found plenty of freights in our way and dropped back to nearly 3 hours down by the time we reached Ottumwa. We passed the nice refurbed station in Creston Iowa and saw a few rental locos in the yards there.
At Ottumwa, I decided to walk the entire train so I could get off at the head of the train to get locomotive photos. I timed it so I was in the first coach when the train stopped and I had only a short walk to achieve my goal. It was now 11:50 and we were told 5-7 minutes is all we had. I was glad to see that among our consist was a new ACS- 64 # 656 running behind our two P-42s. #116 and #181. The train crews had been waiting for several hours to board so they quickly moved to the engines and a quick call to board. I had managed to photograph all three engines and walk back to our sleeper before the ALL Aboard.. I am getting too old for these quick morning runs…smile.
First call for lunch, so we moved to the diner and met Andy who was an interesting guy. He lived in Fort Collins and was an avid fisherman and outdoorsman now that he was retired. He had lost his wife a few years back and was going to Chicago to meet a friend who was coming from Michigan.
They were going to ride trains and do some sightseeing and catch up on their long friendship. We had the Amburger and Andy had the Veggie burger in our abbreviated luncheon menu. There was one lone piece of cheesecake left and Kathryn said she would get it for me before someone else grabbed it..smile. We had an enjoyable conversation with Andy and wished him well.
Lots of track work being performed between Mt Pleasant and Burlington Iowa and we were still running 3 hours down. A little worried that any further delays might jeopardize our connection with the Cap Ltd. We arrived in Burlington at 1:30pm and again had a stop for a few passenger exchanges. A couple of old E units on a back track and a Citirail unit alongside a few BNSF pumpkins graced the yards this afternoon. At 1:37 we were crossing the mighty Mississippi River over the bridge and now in Illinois.
We arrived in Galesburg around 2:30 pm and made a quick stop before moving eastward. It was looking better as the conductor noted we would probably be in Chicago around two hours down, plenty of time to make our CL connection. We moved into Princeton and did not stop since no one was scheduled to detrain and now we are moving fast toward Naperville. Lots of BNSF units along the way, but the freights are letting us get by. Saw three Surfliner cars from California waiting in the Amtrak yards as we turned the curve into the Union Station.
We arrived in Chicago a little after 5pm amid the hustle of all the Metra units. We said goodbye to P.J. and wished her well in retirement. The fumes from all the activity in the underground tunnel was nearly overwhelming, the worst I believe we have ever experienced. We arrived at the Metro Lounge, checked in, but decided to stay in the lounge, watch some TV and wait for our boarding call at 6pm.
We signed up for a 7:30 dinner reservation. Most of the western trains had left so the lounge had plenty of choice seats available. At 6:15 a call to board from the desk and we made our way out to our car 3001, Room E. We met our SCA, Elliott, who proved to be a great guy. We had previously met him when he worked the diners and now he had moved up to SCA. We explained to him and the conductor about our “Toledo Shuffle” situation and he said we should just stay in the bedroom since he had three empty bedrooms in our car and no one was scheduled for our room in Toledo or Cleveland. Yahoo!!
I made a quick trip up to check out our locomotives P-42s #132 and #122 and then back to our car. We left right on time and observed our #6 with its private car and ACS-64 still attached in the Amtrak yards. Moved out of Chicago briskly and when the call for 7:00pm reservations were made, the dining crew decided to call 7:30 as well. That’s good as I was very hungry. Again we had the steaks and I got my cheesecake. So all is right with the world.
We had Elliott put our beds down after Elkhart and although we stayed close to on time, we always anticipate delays. I woke up when we reached Toledo and really enjoyed not having to move to coach. When we arrived in Elyria, the conductor and Elliott stopped by to see we were awake. We were ready to go and it was great to see us move past the airport and over the Cuyahoga River bridge without stopping. We said goodbye to Elliott with a fine tip and walked to our car. Our old friend agent was on the baggage cart and welcomed us back to CLE. We grabbed our checked bag and off down the road we go. We arrived home around 3am and our cat was happy that we were back.
Some thoughts on the trip.. Unlike our trip last spring, when we had numerous engine and crew problems, the rides on the Capitol Ltd and California Zephyr went well. Our SCA’s were all top notch, the dining car crews were friendly and efficient and although the menus were getting a bit old, the steaks were good and with the exception of breakfast on 29, the eggs and French toast were good as well. Enjoyed seeing the new lounge in Chicago, but doubt we will ever use it. Also loved the new Denver Union Station and want to plan another trip to Denver to take in the city, ride the light rails, and do some exploring of museums there as well.
And of course, the land excursion throughout Wyoming, South Dakota, Colorado & Montana was fantastic, albeit a bit warm for our tastes. Saw many national parks and monuments for the first time and so many COAL TRAINS for my rail-fanning bug. We are looking forward to our next trip to the Gathering in October and another Florida adventure in January. Hope we can accumulate enough points under the new AGR system to continue to ride Amtrak all over the country..
Last edited by a moderator:
. If they are about somewhere I've been, they bring back great memories. If (like this one), they are about somewhere I am not likely to go, they allow me to enjoy those places from afar. Your details are wonderful, and I always look forward to enjoying (and learning from) your reports.
