Pensioner's Progress: Visiting India on a Pension...

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I think I remember reading this one (or has there been more than one general strike immediately upon your arrival?). I am sure your wife would have missed you, if you had not returned alive from the trip...
I always enjoy your travels!
You have confused me, Jennifer!
I don't have a wife, and the general strike was a different trip, when I started in Trivandrum. No strike in this tale. I don't think I posted this on AU before, but may well have done, my memory is not what it used to be. (I can't remember what it used to be...)
 
Ah, I just went to the link, and it looked like the one I had read before -- maybe I should go back and check again, I need to read all your tales.

And I think I may have done a little misremembering based on having read your friend's blog of his train trip to Thailand. I'll bet that's where I read about the wife-left-at-home.

Have you ever taken the train to India from Britain? Is that even possible?
 
You still have to cross Lake Van by boat and there is no commercial passenger service between Zahedan in Iran and some point in Baluchistan west of Quetta that I can't quite remember off the top of my head.

On the plus side you can cross the Bosphorus by train now.
 
Ah, I just went to the link, and it looked like the one I had read before -- maybe I should go back and check again, I need to read all your tales.

And I think I may have done a little misremembering based on having read your friend's blog of his train trip to Thailand. I'll bet that's where I read about the wife-left-at-home.

Have you ever taken the train to India from Britain? Is that even possible?

A Short Walk in the Hindu Hush... *

All understood Jennifer. The quiet and deserted Tanjore that I found on my arrival might have been taken for a strike in progress if one was having a quick look, but was the day after the Diwali celebrations.

Ian, of Thailand trip fame, still travels widely, usually with his wife, and has driven his home converted small camper around Europe and to Morocco, where it had to be abandoned after breaking down!

The train travel book that I most enjoyed was Paul Theroux's "Great Railway Bazaar." He travels to India and all over by train where possible, but I don't recall which sections of his route were off the rails. Sadly what was posible in the recent past has changed through politics, but the routes through the former USSR satellite states are probably easier these days.
I would like to take the train route to Istanboul one day, I think the ferry across the Bosphorus might be more fun than the train tunnel underneath.

* Title from Eric Newby's "A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush" Recommended read for mountaineering fans!
 
But then again, being able to go through the Stans will not get you to India by rail (even theoretically), without going through Iran and Balochistan (part of Pakistan).

Speaking of Istanbul, you'll have to change trains there anyway, so might as well stop over for a few days, and then you can cross the Bosphorus multiple times by multiple means. Crossing it by road via the suspension bridge is not a bad experience either.

As a Brit you might find it marginally easier to negotiate Iran than we from across the pond here in the US. At least you do have an Embassy in Tehran, and don't have to operate through the Pakistan Embassy to get visas and stuff, when you can get one that is, and not also get the FBI and the CIA and the DHS and half a dozen other alphabet soup get excited about you 😬
 
I think I would be very happy indeed to spend a few days in Istanbul, I have only flown direct to the Turkish holiday resorts so far.
I don't imagine that I will be going to Iran anytime soon, although I think we only hear one side of the story, as always... The UK got paid for some military hardware that we didn't deliver, and didn't refund either, so probably Brits are not too welcome either. I should obtain an Irish passport under the Irish diaspora rules, welcome everywhere and still be in the EU!
 
Jishnu and Eddie, I am enjoying your delightful convo about traveling in the east! Ed, I followed Ian's blog all the way to Thailand and now I do remember that his wife flew there to meet him at the end of it, didn't she? The trip was just so fascinating, including the boat across the lake, and the rail gauge changeover. I don't remember all the details, but I remember being awed by how much of a planning challenge it must have been, and by how many cultures he navigated successfully.

I will not likely ever get further than western Europe (maybe not even that far after this), but I enjoy dreaming about visiting my friends in more far-flung places (Moldova and Australia). And India has always fascinated me.
 
The UK got paid for some military hardware that we didn't deliver, and didn't refund either, so probably Brits are not too welcome either.

Is that the two battleships the Ottomans were having built by the British in 1914, and which the British seized before they could be delivered, thus ensuring that the Ottomans would side with the Germans?

Ottoman entry into World War I - Wikipedia

On 28 July 1914 Winston Churchill asked for the requisition of two modern warships being built by British shipyards for the Ottoman navy. These were Sultân Osmân-ı Evvel, which had been completed and was making preparations to leave, and Reşadiye. Despite questions about the legality of such a seizure, the request was granted at a Cabinet meeting on 31 July, together with an offer to Turkey to pay for the ships. On 2 August, the British requisitioned them, thereby alienating pro-British elements in Constantinople.
 
Have you ever taken the train to India from Britain? Is that even possible?

Just starting researching this and the flat answer is yes for a Brit providing having a minder while in Iran and taking a few chances through Pakistan is acceptable. Only at the beginning of working out how do-able in reality this is in current times (Covid aside), Pakistan may be the stumbling block though.

Ed and Jis have far more information than I especially from the Pakistan border onwards as it's not a journey we considered until very recently, although we have tried to visit Iran twice since 2001 and haven't made it yet for very different reasons.
 
The issues between Iran and Britain stem from more recent times:

Why Britain owes Iran £450m - and why it might finally pay it back

I agree with you, Jennifer, that Ian's trip was amazing. He is a very interesting guy, at one time he lived full time in a converted double decker London bus! He now lives on a small holding (mini farm) and brews his own beer. I am always waiting for his next project!

I am thankful for having been able to travel so much in the past, goodness knows if we will be able to overcome the present Covid scourge.

For folk wanting to view recent travel conditions in Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, etc, I highly recommend youtube "Indigo Traveller" channel.

Visiting Iran. Click here for video.
 
I loved Great Railway Bazaar! The characters were as memorable as the scenery. I still shudder at the thought of getting Duffilled (accidentally left behind at a railway stop). I found myself grabbing my passport, wallet and a warm jacket (and shoes, not slippers!) every time I stepped off the Trans-Siberian for a breath of fresh air. Just in case.
I saw two smokers get left behind on the Coast Starlight several years back. They had gotten on the wrong side of the conductor early and I think the early departure was a spiteful one. So I made sure to stay on the good side of the provodnik in Russia.
I still hesitate to step inside a train station en route to my destination for more than a quick recce for fear that the train will leave early, and leave me behind. LOL! It makes me smile just to think about getting Duffilled.

A Short Walk in the Hindu Hush... *

...

The train travel book that I most enjoyed was Paul Theroux's "Great Railway Bazaar." He travels to India and all over by train where possible, but I don't recall which sections of his route were off the rails. Sadly what was posible in the recent past has changed through politics, but the routes through the former USSR satellite states are probably easier these days.
I would like to take the train route to Istanboul one day, I think the ferry across the Bosphorus might be more fun than the train tunnel underneath.

* Title from Eric Newby's "A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush" Recommended read for mountaineering fans!
 
Question for Ed and Jis.

When travelling we eat less meat than is usual in our diet, I would say at home we eat a little more vegetatian than meat meals anyway.

Two questions really. Would it be easily possible to eat only vegetarian meals in India?

Are curry meals whether meat or vegetable the majority of meal options?

Don't mean to hijack your thread Mr caravanman but having the opportunity of having 2 experts in the same place is too tempting.

ps: I am ambivalent to curry, certainly wouldn't want to eat it every day.

pps: Pakistan possibly looks like being for the young and brave/foolish traveller, a tough nut to crack with so many areas carrying a high risk.
 
Hi Jamie,

I would say that the large majority of folk in India are vegetarian, and you will have no trouble at all finding vegetarian meals.
Most of the UK Indian restaurants are run by Bangladeshi people, so the impression we get is influenced by their cuisine, a Northern or Mogul, less vegetarian style.
South Indian food is quite different, and tends to be a lighter type of cooking, less oil, less breads, dare I say more vegetarian. Each state has its own style of staple food favourites.

As to curry itself, it is not exactly a concept in India. Indian folk seem to enjoy a level of "spice" in most of their foods, there are many different spices and flavours added to different dishes.
Some foods, for example "idlies" are plain rice cakes, and one adds some mild flavours to them with a choice of "sambar", a very mild sauce, or a coconut flavour sauce.

There are many hotels that cater for the better off Indian guests in most cities, and one can find non spiced items on their menues. Those in tourist spots are aware that internalional visitors may prefer mild foods. One can ask for no spices in omlette, etc. There are many other styles of cooking to be found in India, such as Chinese influences, pizza, even KFC in larger cities.

I am lucky in that I enjoy Indian flavours, but I am not a foodie as such, and usually happy with a packet of Indian biscuits and a cup of tea for breakfast, or a dosa rice pancake with veg filling and a coffee.

I am sure Jishnu will have some input, being a more up market type of guy than myself. ;)
 
I am sure Jishnu will have some input, being a more up market type of guy than myself

Surely not, I think you are just understated.

Wonderful description, thanks Ed. I think from your description we could really enjoy trying all sorts of meals if we can get across very hot spices are not our best thing.

Had a Gumbo meal in Louisiana a few years ago, nearly blew my head off much to the amusement of other dinners, even got applause for finishing it. Maybe someone served up a 'special' version as I mentioned to the server that I had never tried it before...

You have given us confidence that we would survive India, just got to find a way of getting to India without using a plane and not from the north.
 
One further tip is to have a look at the guided tours available to India, from folk like Newmarket Tours, etc. They often state the names of the hotels they use, and these places will be sure to cater for western pallets.
There are many flavouful but mild dishes in India, it is not all about red hot chilli curry by any means.
 
One further tip is to have a look at the guided tours available to India, from folk like Newmarket Tours, etc. They often state the names of the hotels they use, and these places will be sure to cater for western pallets.
There are many flavouful but mild dishes in India, it is not all about red hot chilli curry by any means.

Smart idea, would at least have different options if we needed some.

Not sure we have western pallets though as probably our favourites are Cajun, Vietnamese, Thai, US BBQ and seafood when at the north Holland coast. Extremely rare for us to eat fast food in or out of the restaurants but often visit McDonalds in the US for a cup of tea (all over the US McD's tea has been excellent) but mostly without eating there.

The exception to not eating in fast fooderies is Wendys and Crackbarrel US style breakfasts which we eat most days we are there, as unhealthy as hell but tastes so good!

Thanks for taking the time, we both appreciate the help.

How are you doing now some of the restrictions were removed yesterday? From a distance there appears to be a lightening of the mood across the country.
 
Hi Jamie,

I would say that the large majority of folk in India are vegetarian, and you will have no trouble at all finding vegetarian meals.
There will be no trouble in getting a vegetarian meal.

But a majority of Indians are not vegetarians. A majority of upper caste Indians are vegetarians. But this is currently a politically fraught subject in India. Most tourists would not come by the invisible lowest caste Indians, so they can be excused for forming a wrong impression. ;)
Most of the UK Indian restaurants are run by Bangladeshi people, so the impression we get is influenced by their cuisine, a Northern or Mogul, less vegetarian style.
Irrespective of who runs the Indian restaurants, the normal north Indian cuisine served in them is northwest Indian. Very few Bangladeshi eat at home what they serve in those restaurants. Trust me, I am of the same ethnic group. A Bengali.

We generally eat tremendous variety of Fish, Rice, Daal, Eggs (Chicken and Duck) and a mind boggling variety of Vegetarian dishes too. Jokingly we say that we can make a Saag preparation out of virtually any pile of fresh leaves collected in the field.

On the meat side Goat, Mutton and Chicken are popular. Among the Muslims Water Buffalo and even some true Beef goes, but they are generally more expensive and there fore not a staple food like Fish.

The restaurant cuisine in the west has more to do with the British love affair with the so called "Martial Races" of northwest India than with what Indian in general eat. That tradition of Restaurant fare lives on after almost a century. It is actually quite hard to get real Bengali Cuisine in restaurants. Many Bangladeshi restaurants will serve it off menu in the back room if you ask them in Bengali. Oddly enough, until about 30 years back it was hard to get good Bengali cuisine even in upscale restaurants in Calcutta. Now the Bengali Cuisine restaurants are the rage in Kolkata.
South Indian food is quite different, and tends to be a lighter type of cooking, less oil, less breads, dare I say more vegetarian. Each state has its own style of staple food favourites.
Indeed, as you might have figured out from my short rant on Bengalis and Bangladeshis above.
As to curry itself, it is not exactly a concept in India. Indian folk seem to enjoy a level of "spice" in most of their foods, there are many different spices and flavours added to different dishes.
Curries in the present form were actually popularized by Railway Refreshment Rooms in India. There is even a thing called "Railway Curry" that is served even today. The popular non-veg menu items in the Delhi Jn. Non Vegetarian Refreshment Room in the '60s were "Mutton Curry Rice", "Rice Curry" (that was Goat), "Chicken Curry Rice" and "Egg Curry Rice". There was and is a separate Vegetarian Refreshment Room.

But indeed if you go to a north Indian home, they would generally not be eating curries too often. We seldom eat curries at home, though the spices used in curries are used in other preparations that taste nothing like the classic curry.
Some foods, for example "idlies" are plain rice cakes, and one adds some mild flavours to them with a choice of "sambar", a very mild sauce, or a coconut flavour sauce.
You need to make sure that you ask for a mild sauce. There are certain parts, coastal Andhra Pradesh comes to mind, where normally they will serve a sauce that will clear your bowels for the next two days. :D
There are many hotels that cater for the better off Indian guests in most cities, and one can find non spiced items on their menues. Those in tourist spots are aware that internalional visitors may prefer mild foods. One can ask for no spices in omlette, etc. There are many other styles of cooking to be found in India, such as Chinese influences, pizza, even KFC in larger cities.
Indian Railways IRCTC food service will generally have at least one item identified as "Western" on their fare which will be something like a roast Chicken with Potatoes and such, pretty bland stuff, for those that cannot handle spices.

Another dish that is quite popular for a quick meal these days is the Biriyani. It is a Rice preparation with some spices and a protein additive of your choice (if non-veg). It is a meal in itself, and you don't have to deal with separate sauces and what not. Nothing to spill. Usually may come with a bit of Achaar - a spicy preserve of Mango or other veggies. Just avoid the hot stuff.

Incidentally beware that a very popular additive to Omelettes is little pieces of green chilly, which can be hit or miss as far as the level of heat goes. They are completely unpredictable, but it is also easy to sort them out and avoid them even if they are in the Omelette. They usually do not propagate their heat to the rest of the Omelette. They do add a nice subtle flavor if you like such.
I am sure Jishnu will have some input, being a more up market type of guy than myself. ;)
Hope I obliged adequately :D Actually, though I would know more about down market street food and local food than up market anything since I seldom go to any restaurants in India. Those are for the tourists and foreigners and for extremely special celebrations where you want to spend a lot of money. :)
 
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Not sure we have western pallets though ...

How are you doing now some of the restrictions were removed yesterday? From a distance there appears to be a lightening of the mood across the country.

You are both very widely travelled, and I never imagined that you expected fish and chips or roast beef and yorkshire pudding on the menu , worldwide. :D By western pallets, I just meant that a variety of international and less highly spiced foods could be expected there.

I tend to eat fairly healthily at home, but am quite happy with a big mac or krispy creme doughnut when in America!

I have hardly been out much at all, but starting to think about local travel again, nothing possible for another 6 weeks at least in the UK. Enjoyed an al fresco picnic lunch in the park today, nice and sunny!

I have learnt something today from Jishnu too! I had always asumed that as Bangladesh is a Muslim country, and Muslims eat beef, that was the basis of the "British style Indian restaurant".

Anyway, getting there without flying, or not arriving via the north, seems pretty impossible? Why the "no fly" rule?
 
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I have hardly been out much at all, but starting to think about local travel again, nothing possible for another 6 weeks at least in the UK. Enjoyed an al fresco picnic lunch in the park today, nice and sunny!
I have been holed up for a year too. I took my first train ride on SunRail weekend before last, and had lunch with @pennyk at our old tried and trusted eatery in Winter Park outside of course.

I am booked for a round trip by Amtrak to New York end of April. I also just booked my tickets on Amtrak for the AU Gathering which will hopefully take place in Chicago in October. So we'll see.

I am expecting to visit India early 2022, but I also expect to get a booster shot before doing so, since I will be coming upto my one year anniversary for the vaccination by then.
 
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