Eric & Pat Beheim’s AMTRAK Trip Report
San Diego, Ca. – Toledo, Ohio
Toledo, Ohio – San Diego, Ca.
June-July 2016
Prologue February 2016To get from San Diego to Toledo, it is necessary for us to take three different trains using three different classes of accommodations. First, we take a Pacific Surfliner (unreserved coach) from downtown San Diego to Los Angeles. There, we catch a Southwest Chief (deluxe bedroom) to Chicago, where we connect with a Capitol Limited (reserved coach) to continue on to Toledo. The return trip uses these same trains and accommodations, but in reverse order. For this trip, our travel plans had us departing from San Diego on Wednesday, June 29th and arriving in Toledo on Friday, July 1st, right at the start of the 4th of July weekend. Anticipating that AMTRAK passenger traffic would be especially heavy around the beginning of a long holiday weekend, we made our reservations in February so that we could be sure of getting deluxe bedrooms on the east and westbound Southwest Chiefs we planned to take. After calling AMTRAK’s 800-USA-Rail number, we had no trouble getting through to an agent, who booked all of our train reservations, including the connecting trains. An e-ticket was e-mailed to us immediately and, once it was printed out, we had tangible verification that our 2016 rail adventure was a reality.
May 2016On May 12th, we received both an e-mail and an automated phone message from AMTRAK, giving us revised departure and arrival times for the northbound Pacific Surfliner we had booked passage on. Receiving courtesy updates like this is a service we greatly appreciate. Some years ago, we almost missed one of our trains because its schedule had changed after our tickets were issued. Under the new schedule, our train arrived earlier than the time printed on our tickets. We were never informed of this change and, had our train been running on time, we would have missed it!
June 2016A week before we were due to leave, Eric went to the On-Track On-Line website to get the latest radio frequencies (and their corresponding American Association of Railroads channel numbers) being used by the trains we would be traveling on. This information was used to update the frequencies already programmed into his little Uniden SC230 scanner, which he always brings with him whenever we travel by train.
Part 1: San Diego, California to Toledo, Ohio
Stage 1: San Diego to Los Angeles (June 29)
We arrived at San Diego’s historic, mission-style station at 11:00 a.m. to catch Pacific Surfliner No. 777, scheduled to depart at 11:57 a.m. At the ticket counter, we presented our e-ticket to an agent and, after showing our photo IDs, were issued separate roundtrip tickets for each of the trains we’d be riding on. We also checked two large pieces of luggage that would be traveling to Toledo as baggage. Although San Diego was experiencing unusually warm weather, a cool breeze from the ocean kept the waiting room very comfortable. By 11:10 a.m., coach passengers for Train No. 777 were already starting to line up outside, so we got into line, too. In addition to a contract security guard, we saw two members of AMTRAK’s K-9 police force with a bomb-sniffing dog, checking out a baggage cart with items due to be loaded onboard Train No. 777. One of the officers had a tennis ball on a cord and would periodically use it to play with the dog. (We assumed that this was some sort of “quality of life” thing to help keep the dog happy and alert.) While we were standing in line, several San Diego trolleys rolled passed, including some that had large advertisements completely covering their sides. An outside AMTRAK electronic sign provided Surfliner arrival and departure times and also listed the carryon luggage requirements: two personal items @ no more than 25 pounds each and two bags @ no more than 50 pounds each. (What airline allows its passengers this much carryon weight?) The 11:35 a.m. southbound Surfliner arrived on time and detrained a noticeably large number of passengers, including two Amish couples wearing their traditional 19th Century garb. A second bomb sniffing dog and its handler appeared on the platform and walked the length of the waiting line so that the dog could sniff passengers’ carryon items. (The dog was obviously well trained since it did not react to the lunch that Pat had packed in our carryon bag!) The boarding call for Train No. 777’s unreserved coach passengers came at 11:48 a.m. and we were soon settled in our seats. Retrieving the scanner and a set of earphones from his carryon bag, Eric paused it on Channel 76, the primary AMTRAK road frequency used between San Diego and San Onofre. He soon heard our train being referred to as “Triple 7.” The “highball” message came precisely at 11:57 a.m. and we were on our way. The conductor used a handheld device to scan the barcode on our Pacific Surfliner ticket, which we retained. At 12:28 p.m. we began paralleling the ocean. The day was sunny with some slight haze. The San Diego County Fair, always a well-attended event, was in full swing when we went by the fairgrounds in Del Mar. Passing through the little resort communities of Solana Beach and Cardiff-by-the-Sea, we were surprised to see that the beaches and campgrounds were only moderately busy. Nor was there much traffic on the Pacific Coast Highway. Looking off to the west, we occasionally saw small airplanes towing advertising banners for the benefit of beachgoers. We arrived at Solana Beach, our first scheduled stop, at 12:33 p.m. At 1:02 p.m. Eric heard a trackside radio alarm detector (RAD) announce that we were traveling at 94 miles per hour and that our train had 28 axles. The car’s air conditioner must have been set to the maximum since we eventually found it necessary to put on the light jackets that we had packed along. Just before reaching San Juan Capistrano, the road frequency changed to Channel 30. Surprisingly, our train was not as full as we expected it to be. After going by the old El Toro Marine Corps Air Station, Eric heard our engineer punctuate his “Clear of El Toro” radio report with an “ah-ooooo.” Departing Fullerton, the road frequency changed to Channel 36. Shortly after passing the RAD at milepost 144.45, we crossed the Los Angles River and made the sharp turn to the right for the approach to Los Angeles Union Station. Looking off to the right, we noted that the concrete walls lining the Los Angeles River were still free of graffiti, just as they had been two years ago on our last trip east. (These walls, a favorite place for graffiti artists to practice their art, once bore a collage of graffiti that went on for miles. It was still there in 2009 when we rode AMTRAK north to attend a wedding in Monterey. Apparently someone finally decided that enough was enough and ordered that all of the graffiti – some of which dated back many, many years -- be painted over.) We passed Mission Tower at 2:31 p.m. and came to a stop at Union Station two minutes later.
Stage 2: Los Angeles to Chicago (June 29-July 1)
Making our way inside, we found the stairway leading up to the Metropolitan Lounge. After climbing three flights of stairs with our carryon items, we discovered that there was also an elevator that we could have taken. (We made a note of this for our next trip!) Once inside the lounge, we were able to relax in air-conditioned comfort while waiting for the Southwest Chief to start boarding. (Eric used the opportunity to break out his laptop and start working on this trip report.) At about 5:27 p.m. Eric heard on the scanner that Train No. 4 (i.e. The Southwest Chief) had been released and was making its way from the service yard to the station. Red caps arrived shortly thereafter and we, along with our carryon items, were able to catch a ride onboard a 6-passenger cart to the approximate location on the platform where our sleeping car would be spotted once the Chief pulled in. Sure enough, when it came to a stop, our sleeper #32009 George M. Pullman (the only sleeping car in the consist with a name painted on its side) was close to where we were standing. By 6:06 p.m. we were settled in our bedroom. Our car attendant was Steve. Because baggage-loading operations took longer than expected, we didn’t get underway until 6:24 p.m. Shortly afterwards, Brian, the dining car steward, came by and took our reservations for the 7:00 p.m. seating. The train crew was now communicating on Channel 36. The dining car staff included three servers in addition to Brian, and the service was prompt and efficient. Our dinner companion was a man heading for Harper’s Ferry and the farm he owned near Gettysburg, where he raised Holstein cattle. We both ordered the AMTRAK Signature Steak. For dessert, Eric ordered the chocolate cream tart while Pat had the Greek yogurt cheesecake. As was the case with our Pacific Surfliner coach, our sleeping car’s air conditioning felt like it had been set to the maximum, and we were glad that we had packed along light jackets and long pants. When Steve made up our bed, we asked him for an extra blanket. We awoke the next morning just before the Chief’’s arrival at Winslow, Arizona. We noted that the Winslow station had several vintage passenger cars on display including the Louis Sockalexis, far from its home on the Pennsylvania Railroad. At 6:26 a.m. the Wigwam Motel of Route 66 fame flashed by on our left. Crewmembers were now using Channel 72 for their radio communications. Breakfast was served on a “first come, first served” basis and, by the time we arrived at the diner, there was a waiting list for seating. Opting to wait in the lounge car, we found two adjoining seats just as the Chief departed Gallup. We used the opportunity to set our watches ahead an hour to Mountain Time. Eric was now hearing the crew on Channel 36. Our companions for breakfast were a woman and her daughter-in-law who had gotten on in Flagstaff and who were returning home to Topeka. The woman told us that she had worked for the Santa Fe Railroad for over 20 years. Her grandfather, father, brother and sister had also worked for the S.F. Pat had the Railroad French Toast and Eric had the 3-egg omelet with O’Brien potatoes. Looking to the north, we could see a line of red sandstone bluffs. We returned to the lounge car at about 9:55 a.m. Eric had just turned on the scanner when he heard the engineer call for an emergency stop. Additional radio traffic between the engineer and the conductor revealed that something was lodged in an axel of one of the rear coaches that could possibly impact the braking system. An announcement was made that we had stopped in order to make an outside visual inspection of the train. While we were stopped, we briefly lost electrical power. By 10:12 a.m. we were back on the move again. Listening in on the scanner, Eric learned that some “animal debris” had been found lodged in an axel. It had been overcast for the most of the morning and, just before passing Pyramid Rock, we briefly encountered some light rain. We arrived in Albuquerque on time. This being a 40-minute extended service stop, we used the opportunity to get off and stretch our legs. Walking the length of the train, we took note of the cars in the Chief’s consist: Engine 5, Engine 78, Baggage Car 61059, Sleeper 39027, Sleeper 32009 (George M. Pullman), Sleeper 32059, Diner 36024, Lounge Car 33008, Coach 34099, Coach 34805, Coach 34026 and Coach 34039. A large contingent of Boy Scouts and their leaders were waiting to board one of the coaches. (We assumed that they were heading for the Philmont Scout Ranch in New Mexico but later learned that they were heading for a Scout camp in Wisconsin.) On the platform, we encountered our companions from breakfast who, knowing that we had a scanner, were curious to learn more about the emergency stop that we had made. When we told them that it had been caused by “animal debris,” the woman who was the 20-year veteran of the Santa Fe remarked that perhaps it would be served for lunch! During the service stop, our sleeping car’s windows were given a quick cleaning by someone using a squeegee on a long pole. At 12:01 p.m. the scanner reported, “AMTRAK mechanical crew all in the clear.” At 12:10 the dispatcher gave the engineer permission to proceed and the “highball” signal came at 12:11 p.m. Lunch was by reservation. Our dining companions were a young couple from Orange County, whom we learned were a brother and sister traveling to Chicago for their vacation. Both were graduates of the University of California, Santa Barbara, the same school our son Bret had graduated from. Following lunch, we returned to the lounge car. After departing from Lamy (pronounced Lame-ee), the crew began using Channel 32 for their radio communications. After passing through Apache Canyon at about 1:43 p.m., the scanner reported that a high wind warning was in effect to the east of us “from Springer to Milepost 709.” Eric also heard the engineer being given instructions for meeting Train No. 3, the westbound Southwest Chief. By the time we reached the Santa Fe National Forest, the weather was sunny and clear and ideal for viewing the scenery. At 2:18 p.m. we stopped to wait for the westbound Chief. In this area, the mainline consists of only a single track, making it necessary for Train No. 3 to move onto a siding before we could proceed. While we were stopped, it was announced that orders were being taken for a “Just for You” meal being offered “for coach passengers only.” Those who ordered this special meal, consisting of fried chicken, mashed potatoes & gravy, vegetable side, large chocolate chip cookie and a bottle of water, would have it delivered to their seats. By 2:38 p.m. Eric could hear Train No. 3 communicating with our train and our conductor telling them that the siding switch was “lined and locked.” At 2:42 p.m. Train No. 3 eased passed us on the siding and a minute later we were back underway. Shortly afterwards a RAD reported that our train had 48 axels. The dispatcher also reported that the high wind warning had expired. At 3:14 p.m. we traversed the famous S curve west of Starvation Peak. Arriving in Las Vegas, New Mexico, we noted that the famous Castaneda Hotel dating from 1898 was still closed and completely fenced in to keep out trespassers. At 4:30 p.m. we briefly encountered rain. More Boy Scouts boarded the train in Raton (pronounced Raa-tone.) During the assent up to the Raton tunnel, a RAD reported that our train now had 52 axels. (Since it had had 48 axels earlier, we assumed that a helper engine had been added.) Elk were seen on a hillside to our left. We passed through Raton Tunnel and into Colorado at 6:14 p.m. Another RAD reported that our train once again had 48 axels, and we assumed that the helper engine must had dropped off while we were moving, since no stop had been made. Later, our car attendant Steve told us that no helper engine had been used and we never did learn why that one RAD had reported those four extra axels. Our dinner companions were a couple from El Cajon, California who were heading to Indianapolis, where the man would be attending a model train convention and his wife would be visiting relatives. Arriving in La Junta, we were met by an ambulance with flashing red lights. As we were making our way from the diner back to our bedroom, we found the way blocked by emergency personnel treating a passenger from one of sleeping car roomettes. (To reach our sleeper, we ended up walking back to one of the coaches, getting off, and then walking forward along the side of the train.) Before going to bed, we set our watches ahead an hour to Central Time. When we woke up the next morning at about 6:45 a.m., it was sunny and clear. The right-of-way was running along side a wide river, which we assumed was the Missouri. Shortly afterwards, we saw a corn field with the stalks well on their way to being “knee high by the 4th of July.” The train crew was now using Channel 69 for their radio communications. Our companions for breakfast were a couple returning to Massachusetts after a month-long tour of the west, during which they had used various AMTRAK trains to get around. Our server that morning was Linda, whom we learned had been with AMTRAK for 32 years. (She told us that, earlier, she had managed Pacific Surfliner lounge cars.) We were running 46 minutes behind schedule when we left Kansas City. We crossed over the Missouri River at 8:59 a.m. The train crew was now using Channel 30. After lunch, we went to the lounge car to get a better view of the passing scenery. We were now moving along at high speed, causing the car to sway noticeably. (It brought to mind a line from that old-time railroad ballad Casey Jones: “I’ll run her ‘til she leaves the rails.”) We arrived at Fort Madison at 11:33 a.m. and started across the Mississippi River at 11:55 a.m. Shortly after departing Galesburg, Eric, listening in on the scanner, heard a crewmember report that a passenger in the “12 car” was going through other people’s bags. Someone else responded that they were on their way there to investigate. Our companions for lunch were a couple from Albuquerque who were heading for Naperville. Before departing the diner, we complemented both Brian and Linda on the good service we had received during all of our meals there. We were back in the lounge car when the Chief arrived on the “depot side” of the Princeton, Ill. station, a beautiful, well maintained brick building dating back to 1911. The lounge car closed after we left Naperville and we went back to our sleeper to get ready to detrain in Chicago. We arrived there at 3:41 p.m., about 26 minutes behind schedule.
Stage 3: Chicago to Toledo (July 1)
Making our way into Chicago Union Station, we checked our one carryon bag through to Toledo so that we wouldn’t have to carry it on board with us. Heading up to the food court, we ordered two smoothies from a Jamba Juice stand. From there, we made our way to the AMTRAK waiting room and Gate C, where we would be boarding the Capitol Limited (Train 30) scheduled to depart at 6:40 p.m. Among the passengers waiting to board were several Amish families including some small children. While we were waiting, Eric used his scanner to monitor the Chicago police frequencies, which seemed exceptionally busy on that Friday afternoon. The boarding call for Train 30 came at about 6:10 p.m. As we were walking to our reserved coach, we noted that Silver Foot, a “private varnish” car once operated by the Sierra Railroad, was hooked onto Train 30’s last coach. (Railfans have reported seeing it in the consists of other AMTRAK trains including Meteor and Crescent.) Once we were settled in our seats, we set our watches ahead an hour to Toledo time. Turning on the scanner, Eric heard the dispatcher on Channel 13 telling our engineer that it was OK to depart on time. He also heard a reference to the “glass house,” which we assumed was where the Chicago Union Station train dispatcher is located. We got underway on time at 6:42 p.m. An announcement was made that the train was filled to capacity and that every available seat would be needed. Once outside of the station, Train 30 started using Channel 46 for its radio communications. When the conductor scanned our ticket, we asked her about the Silver Foot and whether or not any rich and/or famous people were onboard. She wasn’t sure. A RAD reported that we were running on tracks owned by the Norfolk Southern Railroad and that our train had “no defects.” Once out of Chicago, we were soon up to express train speed, eventually reaching Toledo at 11:50 p.m. more or less on time. After collecting our checked luggage, we caught the one lone taxi that had been waiting outside and were soon on our way to our hotel. The driver told us that the Greyhound bus station had recently been relocated next to the Toledo train station, which was now open 24 hours a day.
Part 2: Toledo, Ohio to San Diego, California
Stage 1: Toledo to Chicago (July 12)
We were awake by 3:15 a.m., which was just as well since our hotel’s front desk forgot to give us the 3:30 a.m. wakeup call that we had requested. We immediately called AMTRAK to check the status of Train No. 29 (the westbound Capitol Limited) and learned that it was running on time. The day before, we had requested that a taxi pick us up at our hotel at 4:30 a.m. so that we would be at Toledo’s Central Union Station well in advance our train’s scheduled 5:22 a.m. departure. The taxi was already waiting for us when we arrived in the lobby at 4:10 a.m. (Since we had checked our large pieces of luggage at the station the day before, we only had to deal with our carryon items.) Once we had checked out with the hotel’s front desk, it was only a 5-minute drive from our hotel to the station, and we arrived at 4:20 a.m. Although it was still dark, the day was already warm and muggy, and promised to be a hot one. When we arrived, the waiting room was brightly lighted but totally deserted. There was no one behind the ticket counter and no contract security guard or AMTRAK police officers. Sitting all alone in a big city train station at 4:20 a.m. in the morning made us more than a little uneasy. Other passengers began to arrive at 4:41 a.m. and a ticket agent appeared from a back room. It was only then that we began to feel a little more secure. The Toledo station has a nice display of vintage photos of this and the previous Toledo train station. In addition, All Aboard Ohio, an organization that promotes train travel, has a nice display of HO passenger trains inside of a glass case. The Capitol Limited arrived early at 5:58 a.m. and we were soon settled in our reserved coach seats. It was still dark outside, and many of the coach passengers were asleep. Listening to his scanner (using earphones, as always) Eric heard the train crew and station personnel talking on Channels 13 and 39. We departed Toledo on time at 5:22 a.m. Once outside of Toledo, the train crew started using Channel 46 to communicate. Some kid at the front of the coach had a handheld video game and was playing with it with the volume turned up, even though other people were trying to sleep. This went on until the man sitting across the aisle from us got up and walked forward. The game music stopped shortly afterward, so he must have told the kid to turn it down or use earphones. Shortly after leaving Waterloo, we began to notice members of the Amish sect – men, women, beardless teenage boys, and young children – passing through our car in a steady stream on their way to and from the lounge car. Radio Alarm Detectors were heard about every 20 minutes or so. By the time we arrived at Elkhart at 7:25 a.m., it was already light and we got a good look at steam locomotive 3001, on display at the National New York Central Railroad Museum, located across from the Elkhart station. For the record, No. 3001 is a 4-8-2 "Mohawk" (i.e. Mountain type) locomotive built in 1940 by the American Locomotive Company for the New York Central. Just before reaching South Bend, an announcement was made that we would soon be entering the Central Time Zone and that we should set our watches back an hour. On his scanner, Eric heard the stationmaster at South Bend making arrangements with our conductor to pick up some express mail. At 8:06 a.m. Central Time, we started passed US Steel’s Gary Indiana steel mill complex, which seemed to go on for miles. At 8:18 a.m., Eric heard, “All stop 503” and we came to a full stop. When we got underway again four minutes later, it was at a greatly reduced speed. (We later learned that this was due to “track work.”) An announcement was made to the onboard staff that we would be arriving in Chicago at Track 28, with “west side unloading.” Someone on the radio advised the crew to, “Go to 13,” the channel used for station operations. We came to a stop inside Chicago Union Station at 9:03 a.m., about 30 minutes behind schedule.
Stage 2: Chicago to Los Angeles (July 12-14)
Entering the station, we went to where we remembered the Metropolitan Lounge being located. It was no longer there, but a sign directed us to the new Metropolitan Lounge, located just off of the Great Hall. (According to an old floor plan of the station, the new Metropolitan Lounge is located in a room that was once the main ticket office.) After being checked in, we went inside and found two seats together. Eric set up his laptop and used the lounge’s free WiFi to send e-mails to family members, to let them know that we had arrived safely. He then worked on this trip report, while Pat read the morning’s newspapers. At about 11:00 a.m. we decided to check our carry-on items and go up to the station’s “food court” to grab a bite to eat. The checkroom is now self-service, with no attendant to give out claim checks. We didn’t feel comfortable leaving the laptop or Eric’s camera bag, and took those with us. When we returned, more passengers had dropped off their carryon items and there was little available space for latecomers to check their items. We retrieved our one carryon bag and went back inside. By 12:00 p.m., the Metropolitan Lounge was well on its way to being filled to capacity with passengers waiting to depart on Hiawatha, Texas Eagle, Empire Builder, and Southwest Chief. When it finally came time for the Chief to board, we again opted to use the assisted boarding service. Using a special cart, a redcap drove us, along with two other passengers and all of our carryon items, through the station and out onto the platform where the Chief was already parked. Just from the end of the platform to where the sleepers were spotted was a long way, and we were glad that we hadn’t tried to walk the distance from the Metropolitan Lounge to our sleeper. We had reservations for Bedroom A in sleeper #32002. Our car attendant was Cynthia. Shortly after we got settled in our room, an announcement was made that the train was sold out! At 2:55 p.m. and five minutes before we were scheduled to depart, Eric heard on the scanner, “We still have a whole platform of people.” Another crewmember responded, “Maybe someone should read the timetable.” He also heard the conductor and the engineer conducting a brake check. Someone reported that, “We do have markers on the rear.” At 3:00 p.m., Eric heard, “Platform clear,” and we got underway on time. Shortly afterwards, Bridget, the dining car stewardess, came by and took our reservations for the 5:30 p.m. seating. Just outside of Chicago we discovered that we had a problem: our toilet wouldn’t flush! We reported this to Cynthia, and she reset the breaker for the pump. Even after several tries at resetting the breaker, our toilet still wouldn’t flush. Nor would any of the other toilets in our car. An announcement was made to advise the other passengers of this problem, which would be fixed during the service stop in Kansas City. In the meantime, we had to use the restrooms in the adjoining cars. Listening in on the scanner, Eric heard a lot of radio traffic related to track work, which helped to explain why the Chief was going slower than usual. We arrived at Mendota 15 minutes late. At 5:13 p.m. a RAD reported that our train had 48 axels. Our dinner companions were a couple from South Bend who were traveling to Los Angeles. Although they had ridden on trains in Europe, this was their first time riding with AMTRAK. We both ordered the AMTRAK Signature Steak. At 6:53 p.m., while we were still in the diner, the Mississippi River came into view on our right and we started across eight minutes later. The crew was now using Channel 18 for their radio communications. At 7:31 p.m., we crossed the Des Moines River, at which time we set our watches back an hour to Mountain Time. Since it had been a long day for us, we had Cynthia make up our bed early and were soon asleep. The next morning, Eric woke up early and found that the toilet was now working. Cynthia later told us that the problem had “fixed itself” the previous evening and that an announcement had been made. (We had probably been asleep by then.) Holly, Colorado went by at 6:26 a.m. and we arrived at Lamar 29 minutes later. There was already a waiting list for breakfast, so we opted to have our breakfast orders delivered to us in our bedroom. We arrived in La Junta 20 minutes early. This being an extended stop for a crew change, Eric used to the opportunity to get off and walk the length of the train to note the cars in the consist: Engine 131, Engine 139, Baggage Car 61059, Sleeper 39032, Sleeper 32002, Sleeper 32097, Diner 38066, Lounge Car 33048, Coach 34031, Coach 31007, Coach 34109 and Coach 31002. We departed on time at 8:30 a.m. Eric heard the engineer report to the dispatcher that our estimated time-of-arrive at Trinidad would be 9:46 or 9:47 a.m. A short time later, the engineer informed the conductor that someone in a dark red car driving on the road paralleling the tracks was shooting video of the train. That car kept pace with us for over 30 minutes until the tracks veered off to the north and away from the road. (The driver was undoubtedly a railfan since he signaled a “goodbye” with his right turn signal.) Our departure from Trinidad was delayed by an incident that Eric was able to follow on the scanner. It had been discovered that an unaccompanied 13-year-old minor had been put onboard the train by her mother as an adult and without the proper paperwork. We had to wait for local law enforcement to arrive to remove the minor girl from the train and place her into protective custody. While this delay was going on, the Chief was blocking a major street, with a time limit on how long it could do so. We were approaching the end of that limit, and there was some discussion on the radio as to whether or not we would have to pull forward. The “highball” message final came at 10:03 a.m. and we were once again on our way. As we were making our way up to the Raton Tunnel, we saw the railfan in the red car, shooting video from a hillside. We arrived in Raton at 10:59 a.m. A large contingent of Boy Scouts and their gear, bound for the Philmont Scout Ranch, needed to be unloaded. Also, the connecting Greyhound bus bringing passengers down from Denver, Colorado Springs and Pueblo was late getting in. Even so, we still departed on time. At 11:53 a.m., a RAD reported that the outside temperature was 103 degrees. Shortly afterwards, the engineer radioed the dispatcher to confirm the ambient temperature. (Apparently high temperatures can affect train operations.) We went by Wagon Mound at 12:18 p.m. Lunch was by reservation, and we were able to get in on the 12:30 seating. Our lunch companions were a man heading to Los Angeles, and a woman heading for Albuquerque. The man recognized us; he had been onboard the eastbound Chief that we had taken, and had even been assigned to the same sleeper. After lunch, we went to the lounge car in time for the passage through the Santa Fe National Forest with its fantastic scenery. At 2:34 p.m. we passed our sister train No. 4, which was stopped on a siding. Shortly afterwards, we started descending Glorieta Pass, later going through Apache Canyon. We arrived at Lamy at 3:06 p.m. When we reached Albuquerque, it was 105 degrees outside and we opted to remain in our air-conditioned bedroom. At 7:19 p.m. we went by the Fort Wingate Army Depot with its rows of ammunition storage bunkers constructed to blend into the hillside. These bunkers, or at least one of them, figures prominently in the plot of The Wailing Wind, a Tony Hillerman novel featuring Navajo Tribal policeman Lt. Joe Leaphorn. We arranged with Cynthia to wake us at 5:00 a.m. so as not to miss breakfast. (Because we were scheduled to arrive in Los Angeles at 8:35 a.m., the diner opened at 5:00 a.m. and would close at 6:30 a.m.) Our companions for breakfast were a couple from Indiana heading for Simi Valley to visit their son and grandchildren. This was their first time riding AMTRAK. While we were eating breakfast, we went by a large facility that raises ostriches commercially. We arrived at Fullerton at 8:24 a.m. Shortly after going passed milepost 144.45, Eric heard someone on the radio say, “Let’s go to the Disney Channel” (i.e. Channel 47, the one used by the Los Angeles Union Station.) We arrived at the station at 8:59 a.m., about 44 minutes late.
Stage 3: Los Angeles to San Diego (July 14)
The next southbound Surfliner was No. 768, scheduled to depart at 9:55 a.m. from platform 9, which was only one platform over from the one the Chief had stopped at. No. 768 arrived early, and we had no trouble finding two good seats together. We departed on time. The conductor noticed Eric’s scanner when he took our tickets and joked about all of the “chatter” on the Los Angeles station’s radio channel. Once we were clear of the station, the crew switched to Channel 36. The train was crowded and didn’t seem nearly as chilly as the one we had taken to get from San Diego to Los Angeles. (Perhaps it was all those extra bodies that made the difference!) At 10:28 a.m., we went by the Fullerton station for the second time that morning. A RAD reported that our train had 28 axels. As we were pulling into the station at San Juan Capistrano, an announcement was made cautioning passengers that the platform “had a lot of dips.” At 11:21 a.m., we made a stop at the San Clemente Pier. (We later asked the conductor if this was a special summer stop and he reply, no, it was year round, but not all trains stop there.) Eric was now starting to hear San Diego Trolley radio communications on the scanner. At Oceanside, an announcement was made (for the benefit of northbound passengers) that this was a southbound train. Detraining passengers were asked to pick up their trash before departing since the cars were starting to look like “battle zones.” It was also announced that the Del Mar racetrack would be opening the following day, and that all trains – both northbound and southbound -- would be especially crowded When the conductor came by, he tested Eric to see if he was listening to the radio channel currently in use. Eric replied, correctly, that it was 76, the one used between San Onofre and San Diego. We arrived in San Diego at 12:45 p.m., five minutes early, and soon took repossession of our checked luggage. A shuttle from the lot where we had parked car arrived about 15 minutes later and, once reunited with our car, we were on our way home. All in all, this had been one of our smoothest, most enjoyable cross-country rail trips, yet.
Post Script
Shortly after completing our passages both east and west onboard the Southwest Chief, we both received on-line surveys from AMTRAK, asking detailed questions about various aspects of our travel experiences on board the Chief. This was the first time we were ever asked to critique AMTRAK’s performance, and we made an extra effort to respond as fully and accurately as we could. For the most part, our answers conveyed our satisfaction at how well this year’s cross-country trips had gone. About the only fault we could find was that our eastbound sleeper’s air conditioning had made our bedroom a little too chilly for the summer wardrobe that we had packed along. Everything else had met or exceeded our expectations. (Judging from the service we received on our trains, AMTRAK is taking these surveys to heart and is making a best effort to address the concerns that passengers raise.) Our experiences with AMTRAK this year were, in fact, so positive that we are already planning on repeating this trip again in 2017.
