City of New Orleans, connecting from/to Wolverine, Feb. '24

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Part 1. There is something wrong with my copied and pasted format below, I can't figure out what to do with my pictures, but let's get this party started.

A confluence of factors lined up in short order to form this rather impromptu trip to New Orleans on its namesake train. The timing was ideal given various obligations, the fares were low, and the weather was favorable, meaning less likelihood of cancellations. Also, the possibility of canceling was not a discouragement. Hotel rates were also lower (enough days ahead of Mardi Gras) and I had a reservation that could be cancelled with 24 hours notice. After watching train videos for a few weeks, it was time to go! AGR redemption one way and paid ticket on the trip back. I was going to New Orleans for a solo adventure! I wouldn't be there for long, 2 nights and one full day, but that would be enough to do some exploring and just enjoy the change of scenery. Not to mention the fun of boarding a train out of Chicago at night. Now, the menu items on the CONO didn't look particularly promising. In my younger days I wouldn't have batted an eye and happily consumed the cafe offerings, but time marches on and things change. Not really food allergies per se, not going to the hospital or anything, but still have enough of a sensitivity to many of the additives in processed food items, and as a result, generally try to avoid to minimize the reaction. So the night before I prepped carrots, celery, cucumber slices, orange and apple slices, cheese and crackers, and a slice of homemade apple pie, in ziplock bags and placed them in a small softside cooler in the fridge. The next morning I grabbed the cooler along with some napkins and sanitizer, all of which fit in my suitcase.

Having been dropped off at the Ann Arbor station close to departure time, it was chilly but with the bright sun, not unpleasant to wait outside on the platform. Wolverine 352 soon appeared, gleaming in the sunshine. I made a decision to go in BC, after having first booked the segment in coach, then realizing that without one of my kids to help me hoist the rollaboard in the overhead, and not wanting to ask anyone for help, that it was a good idea to have the extra room so the bag could just stay with me. The BC car was half empty, and the cafe attendant told us in greeting that the BC ticket gave us one free nonalcoholic beverage plus unlimited coffee or tea. Yes, some clarification there after mixed messaging last year. I had a cup of coffee, slowly waking up while watching the scenery. A couple of train lurches spilled some on my lap, but, oh well. Jeans are washable. Blotting with napkins and sanitizer seemed to help, at least enough to make it not noticeable as the liquid dried. One cup of the strong coffee, mixed with a little water, was enough to do the job, and I got out the laptop to do some work. Lo and behold! I had no trouble connecting to the Amtrak wifi, and it was remarkably consistent for most of the trip. This might have been due to it being not as full of a train, perhaps. In any case, it was very fortunate. The work that I needed to finish, got done an hour before arriving in Chicago, which meant I could use the layover time to go out in the city instead of working in the lounge, which would have been my backup plan. I packed up the computer and had lunch consisting of the apple pie, some of the carrots, and few of the crackers with cheese, with a Lacroix from the cafe.
Arriving into Chicago, the hallway leading to the Great Hall and the Metropolitan Lounge was divided into 3 corridors by various scaffolding and construction underway. There was also a major project outside on Canal St. It will be interesting to see the results when these are complete! I dropped off my bag at the lounge and set out to explore. First I looked around the station to see what else was new, no changes noticed at the concessions, although there is a Sbarro next to the Chick FilA. Not sure that was there before? Wasn't hungry yet or that would have been tempting. Love their strombolis! They also have a Jersey Mike's ("A sub above") which had a long line, as always. I went back downstairs to the Great Hall to watch a couple of the afternoon LD trains boarding, then headed out of the Clinton street exit. Chicago was also sunny and warmer than average for this time of year, comfortable with just a coat and no hat or gloves. I don't give up on wool socks, though, until later in the year. Unhurried, taking in the sights, I crossed the river and walked around various streets in the Loop. before returning to the lounge for a bottle of water and to use the bathroom. As the afternoon sunlight began its magical descent, I thought about getting dinner, and left the station again. I was walking towards the Ogilvie center and the French market, where there are lots of options, and passed a Five Guys. Well, a burger sounded good, it's not my favorite of the burger chains but it's dependable, and I could see through the storefront it wasn't crowded. Got a seat in the window and had dinner without any need to hurry, finally heading back to the station as it started to get dark and increasingly chilly, with an hour earlier sunset from my home time zone. There was still plenty of time before the CONO boarding for a final email check, family text chat, and to have a Kind bar which was among the available snacks. Boarding was announced at 7:30ish and the agent led us through the station construction maze to the track.
There it was, our Superliner! Got settled into the roomette quickly, and met our Dave, our SCA. Dave is a hardworking, knowledgeable, and unfailingly cheerful individual. Amtrak is lucky to have him. He came around to take everyone's dinner orders, to my surprise, dinner is available on this train even though it doesn't leave until 8 pm. I wasn't hungry but happily accepted the dessert to stow away in my suitcase, and also the free beer. Sleeper car passengers can get one complimentary beer, wine or mixed drink. as well as other complimentary nonalcoholic drinks. Similar to the Capitol Limited. There were 2 water bottles in my room so hydration was well taken care of. Leaving Chicago on a train at night has got its own brand of city magic, and I watched the scenery and just lived in the moment for many miles. It was a breathtaking kind of feeling, not being concerned with the past or future worries.
Well, for a while. Then it was time to annoy poor Dave. On boarding, none of the bathrooms contained soap, which I consider a Chicago cleaning crew failure. The SCAs are busy from the getgo with bringing dinner orders to the sleeping car passengers, which seems to be more and more the process now, although if someone asks to eat in the lounge I'm pretty sure they can. I just wonder if this is more helpful with maximizing the lounge availability so that the coach passengers can get meals too. It's definitely more work for the SCAs, though. I would have been happy to put soap bottles in the restrooms had there been any in evidence, but I ended up having to pester Dave. Note for future, bring emergency soap from home, not something I've ever considered. In any case, he brought the soap bottles for all the restrooms, and Chicago did provide ample paper towels. There were also no bars of soap in the shower, which would have been an issue had I not showered at home. It had been a long day and I was ready to call it a night. I sanitized the bathroom counter, brushed my teeth, and cleaned up some with one of the provided towels and hot water/soap. In that space of time, Dave had made up the roomette for the night, and it was so nice to curl up in bed and watch the nighttime landscape while texting. Woke up periodically to see some of the intermediate station stops, but mostly had a surprisingly good sleep.
 
No hangover, in fact, no Bourbon street. But here's the second installment, and I will try to get some pictures in from a different device.
Second train day and arrival.
Not only was that a good night's sleep. I wasn't really keen on getting up. Thought about it, around 7 am or so, but lay back down and went to sleep until 8:30. Felt really rested by then, and went upstairs and got a cup of coffee, then settled back in bed to watch forests and small towns in Mississippi from the window. Breakfast would have been available starting at 6:30, but after a while I decided to just wait until lunch. Jackson, MS is one of the lengthier fresh air/smoke stops, so it was quite nice to go out in the warm sunshine and walk along the tracks. We were cautioned not to leave the platform, though. Another passenger was telling me they were having a little trouble with the rough tracks and side-to-side motion. Forgot where they were sitting and which car, it was not something I noticed at all, although that would change on the return trip. And I'm not sure why, since the sleepers were at the end for both trips. Our car was the next to last, in front of the transition car. At any rate, soon we were called to board and on our way. The LSA came around to take lunch orders, among the options there was an Asian noodle bowl, which turned out to be a cold noodle salad with some fresh edamame, red pepper, and scallions. It was decent, I'd get it again. Soon, the announcement made that we had crossed into "The great state of Louisiana" and I began to look forward to the lake crossing. This was a bucket list event and it was amazing. There is a 1980s song by the group Poco, called "Heart of the Night" that is about New Orleans and I have always wanted to see Lake Pontchartrain while listening to the song. So I did! It took me back to the 1980s me without a trace of unhappiness or regret, but yet, the words and music were a beautiful backdrop to a feeling of living in the moment in this year of 2024. Following the lake crossing, it wasn't long before we began to approach the city, although, as with leaving Chicago, there was some procedure that required the train to reverse direction for a while. We were on time, even early, it just may have felt to some like it was taking longer, plus the train had to stop for a while. Our conscientious and caring SCA, Dave, was entertaining the kids in the family room, trading jokes and riddles, making the time fly by until the train starting moving again, which was very kind of him. I used the time to line up the walking directions on Apple maps and do some more area research. Before you knew it, we were pulling into the New Orleans station. What a wonderful trip this was! I disembarked and walked through the station and exited to beautiful sunny weather in the upper 50s. My winter coat was already packed before leaving the train. I set off for my hotel. There were cabs aplenty to meet the train, but with the weather being so perfect, I figured I'd get some exercise and start the first chapter of sightseeing.
My hotel, a Courtyard, was located in the "Warehouse district" which was away from a lot of the tourist areas such as the French Quarter, but in good weather, easily walkable. It also is not far from the convention center, and it was certainly much more reasonably priced than staying in the more centrally located blocks. I am a big fan of the Courtyard brand anyway, and I really loved this one. There are reviews that mention a nearby nightclub being loud, which was a nonissue for my midweek stay. I can imagine that it would probably be more lively on the weekend, not to mention, when I was leaving the Mardi Gras revelers were arriving. All I can say is that coming to this city, just be prepared for a certain amount of human activity, at many different hours. It is part of the charm and NO is a very friendly and laid back city. I did bring earplugs which I ended up not needing. This was never envisioned as a silent retreat. But having said that, it was decently quiet on the side of town where I was, and it was perfect since I also wasn't looking to be in the center of main attractions anyway. Traveling alone, I also had no plans to be out late night, so being a bit off the beaten path didn't bring up any safety concerns.
Once checked in to the room, did some sanitizing, unpacked, and cleaned up some. Then went out on a meandering walk to no particular destination, taking in the architecture, as the afternoon light began to fade. NO is also oddly pedestrian friendly, even though many streets do not have Walk/Don't Walk signs, the drivers are more considerate than anything I'm used to. As it got dark, I realized I was famished, and the good cooking smells from a corner bar and grill drew me inside. No lectures about what I'm supposed to eat in NO :) I got a chicken quesadilla to go and enjoyed a cold Miller Lite while waiting for it. There were a couple of security guards at the entrance, maybe in anticipation of the night crowd. I got back to the hotel, and after covering 4 miles was a little tired. I had purchased another beer to enjoy with half of the quesadilla while listening to our basketball team surprisingly not lose a game. After that it was time for a shower, and after that, one of the brownies from the train. Stayed awake for a while, text chatting and planning the next day, and finally fell asleep. Like a rock.
Morning of my full day in New Orleans!
With no obligations except one afternoon Zoom meeting, I made a cup of coffee in the room, and then another. The rest of the quesadilla was in the fridge, and I had that plus an apple. But I was in NO and it was time to get outside. The plan was to find a walkable location for buying a "Jazzy Pass" which is like the CTA 24 hour pass, except it's only 3$, and covers all buses and streetcars. Also like the CTA (unlike Washington DC) it is a true 24 hour pass, no expiration at midnight. I found ticket sale locations including Walgreens and other stores, the RTA office, and ticket machines. Well, the ticket machines appeared to be the closest, less than a mile. So I set off to the nearest one and found the exact location, however, no ticket machine in sight. Finding a helpful RTA employee outside near the streetcar tracks, he said they weren't operational and that you could simply buy passes on the bus. Please note, this wasn't the only instance I found of Apple/Google maps being inaccurate or outdated. Following his directive, I walked to the nearby bus stop, boarded and bought my pass. The driver told me where I needed to transfer to get to my destination, City Park. Unfortunately, during my trip the streetcar service was paused for maintenance, so I never rode any. They must have wanted to get them ready for Mardi Gras crowds. But it was fine, I rode the bus down to the park, looked around for a while, and then found a bus back to Canal Street. I stopped in Cafe Beignet (on or near Canal Street, forgot) to get an order to go, this was apparently something you must do in NO, just so you can say you've had them. It was getting close to the time for my Zoom meeting so I hurried on foot back to the hotel. Yes, the beignets were good. Healthy? Certainly not. I ate 2 of the 3 (they come in 3s) after the meeting and while it wasn't a healthy lunch, you know, again, it was something that had to be done. Besides, it gave me plenty of energy to embark on the next adventure.
 
So where were we... oh yes, a couple of beignets for lunch and Zoom over for the afternoon. It was time to lace 'em up and get going. Another nice day, too. This time I walked along the main road by the convention center, closer to the river. As this was a quieter time, and just before MG, the street was not thronged with conventioneers, although there were a few individuals and small groups outside, their conference lanyards flapping in the breeze. The plan was to walk up to the nearby stop for the riverside streetcar service, ride that up to the ferry terminal, and then take the ferry over to Algiers point, then ferry back and take the streetcar up to the French market or perhaps a little farther, before walking back to the hotel. Not all parts of the plan came to pass :) As I got closer to the streetcar stop, I turned to the right off the main street, in front of one of the major conference hotels. Did not take a photo but I think it was a Hilton property. The streetcar station stop was right in front, off to the side of the hotel entrance and valet. People were beginning to check in for the upcoming celebrations and there was much local color in the way of festive attire. It was fun just to hang out there and take in the action, but time was ticking by and no streetcar appeared. Other tourists were also milling about, and some were beginning to leave. Since it wasn't much farther to the ferry terminal anyway, I decided to just walk the rest of the way.
Once at the ferry terminal, which was an easy walk and easy to locate, I enjoyed the views of the Mississippi while waiting. It was so relaxing. Ferries depart on the :15 and :45, and the paper Jazzy pass is all you need to board. It's a fairly quick ride over to the other side of the river, and once there, you find yourself at a quaint outpost that looks back across the river to the city. The area has almost a residential feel, houses, shops, small businesses. I didn't really venture into the town itself, this impression is from the entrance to a small road leading into the town. There were people walking up the road to catch the ferry, though, some clad in the eye-catching purple, gold and green sequined attire. Adjacent to the ferry terminal, there was a public walking trail that I followed to its end, a decent walk, and which allowed me to live another childhood fantasy, actually walking along the Mississippi River. It wasn't exactly huckleberry and rainbow ends*, but it was a grand experience I will never, ever forget. There was no one else on the path except an occasional biker, and like the cars in New Orleans, I was pleasantly surprised how they all coexist with people on foot. When I got to the end, looking up at the magnificent bridge, the afternoon sun was above the clouds, lighting up the river, beginning its descent. It was still warm but a little windy, it felt like unbridled joy to be there, but time to turn back. I walked back to the ferry at a more brisk pace. The line was smaller for this departure, again a very short ride across the water, and I disembarked and walked a short distance to the next streetcar stop, to try and salvage that portion of the plan. Unlike the stop by the hotel, there was no one other than me. I waited for a while, no streetcars. However, there was a surprise train appearance. I will attempt to upload the video after this installment. That was loads of fun, I have never been that close to a freight train unless inside an Amtrak train, and it was positively surreal. After the long, long freight had passed, I wondered if the streetcars were even running, although a local had told me the river line was indeed operational even if the rest of the service was down for maintenance. I started to leave the stop and right then a streetcar appeared in the distance, and I hurried back to board. The driver advised me he was going the opposite direction. I asked him when one might come going the other way. "That's me" the driver said, "and there's only 2 of us today. It's going to take a while." I stepped off and sat down for a bit to ponder the options. Did I want to wait just to catch a streetcar? The Jazzy pass had more than paid for itself and it cost so little to begin with. Besides, maybe it was better not to wander even farther from the hotel, alone as the evening was coming on. No, it was time to explore some French Quarter ambiance, all on foot. It had already been an exhilarating, full day, and I could only do what was realistic.

*Extra credit for anyone who can identify the song reference. That's extra credit on top of reading this lengthy report.
 
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Following the freight train excitement, heading back into town. Had hoped to share my video but it just doesn't seem meant to be. Even trimming the file it says too large to upload (and it's less than a minute anyway!) so, well, time to continue the report while I still remember things!
Now maybe if the streetcar service had been running, maybe if I'd set off on foot instead of hanging around watching the freight go by, could have utilized the daylight better and gotten farther uptown. As it were, that ship had sailed, or, you could say, that train had left. I headed into town, as shown in the picture above. Similar to the convention strip, the streets were not packed, although there were small tour groups and lanyard-bearers here and there. Every other storefront appeared to be a souvenir shop of sorts. I was on the edge of the French Quarter, so turning left and away from the main road, things looked more interesting. Small diners and larger restaurants, a variety of shops, music clubs, galleries and signature wrought iron architecture. It was too early for most of the evening revelry, still some of the bars and diners were already starting to get a little lively. Interestingly, and this happened on all 3 days there in the heart of LSU country, my Michigan shirt drew a couple of "Go Blues" from several different outdoor cafes. Definitely was not expecting that! Was nice to hear and to see a friendly smile. Since I knew the direction of the hotel, did not bother with Apple directions or street names, just basically proceeded in that direction, changing to different blocks now and then. Yes, that carries some risk, especially for me, but I do try to maintain heightened situational awareness when alone. So I meandered on, stopping at a gift shop to get T shirts for the family.
 
The streets close to the hotel were familiar now, as the sun set and darkness set in, I was within a few blocks. Despite a couple of reviews where some solo women travelers didn't like the warehouse district for walking alone at night, I never got any sense of anything to worry about. Then again, I wasn't out late at night, either. I did promise the kids to stick close to the hotel after dark and it was an easy enough promise to keep after logging 9 miles in one day. There was a cute little place a few doors down serving local fare from a takeout window (red beans/rice, poor boys) but they had staffing or stocking issues, not sure, as the worker advised they had no food other than burgers. A few patrons were at the bar indoors or having drinks at the sidewalk tables. I kept walking and found another small diner with mostly Mexican style offerings, and it was a relaxing atmosphere inside with a couple of big screen TVs showing college basketball. Oldies type music was playing, not overly loud, and I was more than happy to sit down and have a cold one with beef tacos, wrapped in 2 flour tortillas. Delicious, or I was starving, or both. In seriousness, quite good, with a perfect level of spice. Upon returning to the hotel, I also finished up the remaining bagged vegetables I had brought from home. It was great to get showered and settled for the night, updating everyone at home, and fall asleep knowing there was more adventure ahead for the next day.
And next day? Another beautiful morning. I was up fairly early, with the idea of getting out for a couple of hours before checkout. Alas, due to the impending festivities and high bookings, the hotel was not able to provide a late checkout, not even by an hour. Not even 30 minutes. So 11:00 it was. And certainly at that time, as I was leaving the hotel, even if rooms were not yet available, people were checking their bags and heading out to get a head start on the weekend fun. So I'm glad to have gotten an early start. At 7 am, maybe more like 7:30, I decided to go for a final walk, and get a good coffee somewhere along the way. It's nice having in room coffee available but on some days you just want something better. Apple Map showed several in the vicinity, all seemed to have good reviews, what was interesting is that none of them were open until 7. New Orleans is the only large city I have been to that doesn't seem to have that 24 hour vibe, at least not for getting an early coffee. The options all sounded like small local businesses which is what I was looking for, so I wandered in to the first one I found and got a large coffee to go. Yes, it was with a touch of regret that I was gong to be leaving soon, but you know, this trip was so nice I couldn't really feel sad. I returned to the hotel in plenty of time to finish drinking the coffee with the remaining beignet, pack up, and with no one with me to help me remember things, checked everything several times. I was ready to go well before the 1100 deadline, and headed down to the lobby to review the bill and check out. Here I did feel a little sad, but then again, being alone in a sea of Mardi Gras celebrations probably wouldn't have been as enjoyable, and as my son likes to remind me, I had plenty of stress waiting for me at home to catch up on. I left the hotel as carloads of guests were pulling up to the valet station, which had seen little traffic during my stay. By the time I cleared the dark garage and headed into the now bright sun, I was looking forward to the train ride back to Chicago. For lunch I picked up a pizza slice to go from a local grocery store and stored it in my tote bag. The streets closer to the station are less touristy but still a pleasant walk.
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When I had arrived, in my eagerness to get outside I had simply walked straight through the station and left immediately. Now, with an hour or so to spare before boarding, I had time to take in the surroundings a bit more. The waiting area is one large room, with ample seating, Amtrak on one side and Greyhound on the other. As you face the staffed counter, you will also see the boarding gates off to the side. In the hall leading to the waiting area there is a Subway and a gift shop, which I didn't investigate, opting instead to check out the Magnolia room. This is not a Metropolitan Lounge, let's just say. An Amtrak employee gives you the door code for entry, and the interior is about the size of a large living room. That may be a slight exaggeration, but it is small, and unstaffed. There was a counter on one side with I think, muffins and water bottles. More importantly, in one corner I spotted an outlet, so I sat down in a comfortable chair and fired up the laptop to take advantage of the internet connection and complete one last round of emails before boarding. Once this was finished, I left the lounge and went back to wait in the main area. Others were arriving and the space was quite limited, plus it felt a little confining. I believe the Sunset Limited leaves at the same time, although have not fact checked my recollection. At any rate, soon it was time to board the CONO back to Chicago. The trip back was a bit of a mixed bag. I got to experience the Transdorm, which was certainly, an interesting experience. Will go into some more details in the next post. (Advance warning: people who don't want to read any negatives about Amtrak should just skip the next installment). For now, I boarded and met the SCA, Jazzy, who was, like Dave, equally kind and gracious, with a very pleasant laid back demeanor. The train left on time, losing a bit of time as they did the backup and reverse maneuver, and waited for something else, before picking up speed as we approached the lake crossing again.IMG_1083.jpegIMG_1082.jpeg
 
To continue and hopefully wrap things up today; apologies as I see a couple of minor editing issues above.
Riding back to Chicago, in the transdorm. It was certainly kind of cool in a way. About half the rooms were occupied so apparently this is overflow after the other sleeper is booked. And I enjoyed the view from the window at the end of the car, where you could watch the tracks receding. But the level of cleaning was abysmal, and sure, I am probably both a little more OCD about this than many, even before Covid, and also I don't even have high expectations to begin with which is why I travel with a good supply of sanitizing wipes. The level of grime in this car was unprecedented in any Amtrak experience to-date. Upon boarding the upstairs bathroom already smelled bad, I cleaned the sink surfaces and toilet seat etc. but the smell remained. There were other bathrooms downstairs that were a little better. The roomette had an interesting extra storage space adjacent to one of the seats, kind of an open cubby between the seat and the wall. Think twice before putting anything in it, as apparently, no one ever cleans there. I got soap and paper towels from the bathroom to try and tackle the caked on dirt and it took a while to make any progress, before going over the interior with wipes. I then left some paper towels to line the floor and stored my washable tote bag in the cubby. Other than that I didn't mind the transdorm and would not avoid riding in one again, although I need a better strategy since it was the very last car, the motion of the train affected me differently. More on that closer to Chicago. For now, with the room cleaned, I sat back to enjoy the scenery and the pizza I brought for lunch, which turned out to be a good choice as there was no food service until dinner. An announcement was made what time the cafe would open, but I didn't catch all of it. The pizza was good, with the bottled water in the room, and as the train approached Jackson I got ready to get out for a fresh air stop.
Fun view from the rear window
 

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Soon it was time for dinner. Jazzy had stopped by to take orders earlier, just as the SCAs did on the outbound trip. I got the Greek salad, which isn't really much if you're hungry, and I recommend more as a side, especially after I threw out the peppers and raw onions. Was happy that I had the pizza earlier and also that you could get a side of pretzels (or chips if one likes) which I did, and which went very nicely with the beer too. Dessert was butter cake which I stored for later, and it was a typical train evening, watching the changing landscape as the lights of cities and towns started coming on. I spent much less time on my phone for this trip, as the side to side motion was so much more pronounced that it was just better to put it away except when taking pictures. Occasionally I went to the rear window for a different perspective, one you don't normally see from the rooms. The cold Mich Ultra and pretzels also helped, although, I'm sure the medical people won't agree with that. I went to get a second one from the cafe car(first was free with dinner) and there was a long line of passengers, with one of the attendants managing traffic and letting a few people at a time down to the cafe. This is was a good system to ensure that all the coach passengers who wanted to could get a meal, too. Opting to return to my room and wait a while, again I noticed the train motion definitely called for some extra caution during some portions of trackage. When I did return to the cafe, the line had dissipated, and they were probably getting ready to close up for the night. I left the beer in the room with the rest of the pretzels and made my way down to the vestibule. The next stop would be Memphis, around 10 pm, and I was looking forward to seeing the station, which had been in the overnight hours on the trip down. The Memphis station has its own unique character, and its own hotel.
 
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