There was a train derailment on the Portland and Western (not Pacific and Western) that caused the L&C to be cancelled all last weekend, so I rescheduled my trip to yesterday00Sunday Septenber 12, 2004. I was concerned about the weather: several newscasts predicted rain--lots of rain, but actually there was very little and it was actually quite beautiful (sunny) in Astoria.
The train uses old RDCs previously own by BC Rail (with BC Rail lettering, signs and paint scheme still visible in places). The train travels mostly along the Columbia River from Linnton--a mile or so north of the St. Johns Bridge, about two miles from where the BNSF tracks swing northward to cross the Willamette River. Shuttle buses take passengers from Portland Union Station to the L&C train depot. Passengers can also drive to and park their cars at the Linnton depot site. There is no real depot, just a platform. The train is made up of 3 RDCs. The train backs out onto the mainline and the moves forward toward its destination of Astoria.
The train never goes very fast; the fastest I saw was between 30 and 35 mph. These are speed restrictions by the P&W railroad (and FRA). There are three drawbridges (actually swing bridges--that are still operated by hand) for which the train must stop then proceed at under 10 mph. Then after crossing the bridge, the train once again picks up speed.
The train is not always within sight of the Columbia River (or the Willamette Slough--an arm of the Willamette River before it joins with the Columbia). Instead it often travels through verdant fields, farms, pastures, forests, and wetlands (some connected to the Columbia). There are a number of wetland and wildlife refuges along the way. I saw deer (including one that darted out from the front of the train--almost getting hit) and lots of birds. especially Blue Herons. I didn't see any bald eagles this time, but people have on other trips.
The only problem I had is not being able to get a window seat on the water side. At first, I had to sit with an old lady and look over her to look out her window; later I got a seat by the window on the other side (away from the water/river), supposedly with the deal of getting a window seat on the river side on the return trip. On the return trip, it was only an aisle seat on the same side of the train as the river--but no seat next to the window looking at the river!
However, there were a lot of nice things to see on that side of the train. We passed through the towns of Columbia City, St. Helens, and Rainier. In Rainier, the train runs down the middle of the street! There were constantly people all along the route that waved to us. We waved back.
However, at the rear of the train, there was a vestible where I could stand and look out the windows both toward the river and behind the train and enjoy the scenery that way--that worked nicely! I could also roll down the window and breathe in the fresh, country air.
When the train returned to Portland (Linnton), this became the front of the train, and again I could stand here and look out the window at the river and the front of the train as it traveled. This is with the engineer! There were a few other guys (one filming the ride) also in the "cab." The engineer let us blow the whistle at crossings a few times.
Many times, the train is right next to the water--Columbia River; and often it is only the railroad that is there (with high cliffs on the other side). It was great getting that close to the water. I could see several oceangoing ships on the river; we seemed to be pacing each other as we almost were neck in neck in speed. There were also tugs and various pleasure craft out on the water, fishermen were plentiful. I love being near the water and all the different shades of colors, lights, reflections, various scenes, sights across the river. We did get a little rain in both directions at about where the river crosses the Coastal Range (they too provide a bit of a rain shadow--where clouds and moisture come off the ocean and meet the mountains and let off some of their moisture before heading farther inland and eastward). And these are places that ONLY the train goes--no cars; Highway 30 most often is routed inland.
Next Monday is the last run for the season, but they are planning to run the train again next year for the 200th anniversary of the Lewis and Clark Expedition (the Expedition spent the Winter of 1805-06 near present-day Astoria). The roundtrip fare from Portland is $58. You can go by train one way and then take a bus or boat back, and you don't have to come back on the same day. Many people are going to Astoria on the train and spending the night (or nights) there. So, if you can take this trip, I suggest you do so. Next year will be the last season this train will operate. Before last summer, this line had not seen regular passenger train service since 1952!!!
