Memphis-Reno

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J

John

Guest
[SIZE=14pt]Memphis-Reno, Sunday March 15, 2015-Wednesday March 18[/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]My someday was that Sunday and I was not going to be late. It had been over 16 years or so since I got off the Coast Starlight in Emeryville after doing an overnight down from Portland while on a business trip. Earlier on that same west coast trip went from Las Vegas to L.A., then left L.A. and went up to Seattle on the Coast Starlight. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]So, here I am, many years later, walking into the station in Memphis at 8:55p.m., overnight bag and golf bag in tow. Strictly pleasure, not business and ready to enjoy the luxury of time, resources and permission from my red headed boss. The CONO to Chicago doesn’t leave until 10:40 p.m.. Let’s just say I had my choice of seats in the waiting room and still did until about 9:30. Nice building, clean, well- kept and very quiet! The station building also happens to the home of the Memphis Police Central Station. The parking lot is loaded with police vehicles and officers coming and going through the front entrance to the station about 50 feet to the right of the Amtrak entrance. I felt very safe and secure there.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]CONO was a little late arriving. Looked like a crew change and refueling stop while the 50+ passengers had tickets checked and boarded. Boarded my sleeping car, reluctantly left the golf bag downstairs and went up to find my roomette. The SCA was hurriedly making up several rooms apparently just vacated by departing passengers there in Memphis. So, along with a few others, we waited in the dining car until we were called to our respective rooms. Not a big deal, I was on a train, we were moving! This was really happening![/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]Had stopped on the way to the station and picked up some O.J. and snacks for the ride, had my Vodka ready to pour into my “sippy” cup, just needed a little ice. So, time to see what the ice deal was with this particular SCA. And the deal was go see the LSA. LSA says SCA shouldn’t tell you that. OK then, how about a Vodka and O.J. in a tall glass of ice. ..save myself a trip back to my roomette—not tonight—no vodka—it’s Sunday night she says. OK then, I’ll have a Pepsi and a tall glass of ice on the side. Problem solved—for me anyway! So, after a few cocktails in the lounge car, I went to bed. Little rock and roll through the evening but slept OK. I had read about the “availability” of ice here in the forum and also the track conditions, so boarded with “reasonable expectations” and was not disappointed. Up in the morning and down to the dining car for breakfast. I had breakfast with a nice man from the Champagne area who had some business in Chicago and prefers the convenience of the train versus driving. Nice conversation and enjoyed the world going by out the window. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]Stopped downstairs in the sleeping car to use the facilities and check that my golf clubs were OK. They were. I was not. Had one of those, oh no, what have I done moments. Lot of rock and roll downstairs, little up and down movement, ok, to be expected I said to myself. This noise however, loud, clickety, clack,clack, clack! Didn’t notice the noise upstairs, but down there, way too much.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]So what’s the problem—I checked the fares a day or 2 before leaving and found a great deal on a family bedroom, plenty of room, can put the clubs in the room with me-2 more overnights on the train,etc., so I booked it. This may have been a big mistake I thought. The family bedroom is downstairs! Turned out it wasn’t a problem, more on that later.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]Pulled in, backed into Chicago almost on time, got a redcap and took the ride up to the Metropolitan Lounge. Good choice, good service, nice lounge, friendly and efficient staff. Checked in and was told boarding for the California Zephyr would be at 1:15p.m. with departure at 2:00p.m.. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]Scouted around the station, outside for a couple of smoke breaks, Chicago dog for lunch, plenty of time in the great room, just a beehive of activity. Across the street to Walgreens for essentials, O.J.,etc. and back to the lounge to hurry up and wait and then hurry up-big time![/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]Spent a good deal of my career in operations and have always been interested in what makes things work and what doesn’t. When you introduce people into the equation and a few last minute variables or changes to the plan—the fun, the challenge, the opportunity to excel or fail enters the picture. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]On that day, the staff in the Metropolitan Lounge was impressive. I would compare it to a typical airline lounge with one major exception. The staff is also charged with getting the passengers to the correct platform at the appointed time (which can change) along with their luggage—all of it! Not an easy task. This day and I am pretty sure on others, the usual hard of hearing and hard of thinking were along for the ride.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]The plan calls for the conductor to come to the lounge to check the tickets of the first class passengers to make sure everything is in order. Great plan! However, the conductor was running late that day, it may have been an equipment or manifest issue, never really heard. The staff was very accommodating and made plenty of status announcements, in addition to checking in the late arriving, out of breadth passengers.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]So the conductor arrives, does his thing and leaves. The first boarding call and how it works announcement is made and the bees start swarming. Less than a minute later, a boarding call for another train is made and it is game-on.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]Basically, red cap passengers to the front of the lounge, others to the back for the escorted walk to the train platform. The call goes out for the red caps to come to the lounge. The bag room attendant is earning his money and quickly I will add. Further instructions are issued, this train to the left wall, that train to the right wall. The red caps will be here shortly—DO NOT GO OUTSIDE UNTIL YOU ARE TOLD TO. IF YOU DO—YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN! The significance of that last instruction soon became very clear.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]Slowly, the red caps arrived. The doors opened and a few departed. The doors closed. Then a few more red caps arrived, doors opened and closed. I should mention here that the sliding doors are not clear so when they close so does the world outside. Then it got interesting. Some passengers came back in—not enough room on the carts for them and their luggage. More redcaps—stat! The process repeats and the clock is ticking away all the while. People are getting a little antsy, I am ok and just a few of us left, no problem I think to myself. Then, the doors open and in walks the problem. A woman who had left a while ago, had not left. Not enough room on the cart for her and the red cap told her to just wait there for the next one. She did, and nobody knew she was there. The lounge attendant immediately called for a red cap- now-like- right now, so that she would make her train and she did. The issue was that it was our red-cap who took her.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]After that excitement, another red-cap is summoned, now, right now for us. We are the last passengers. The redcap stops at the first sleeping car to take care of the other folks and now I am the last one. I am still waiting on the cart after a few minutes. Nothing on the platform in front of me or behind me. Nothing and no one. In my hard of thinking mind I envision the train leaving without me. Last name is Murphy, am 65 and been down this road before. So, I take my clubs and bag off the cart and walk down to the next car and stand by the door, one foot on the train and one on the platform. Hey, it was the best plan I could come up with. I didn’t want to stiff the redcap or miss the train. I know it may sound ridiculous to some of you but fair is fair, he did the work, it just wasn’t quite done yet. The SCA was apparently tending to another passenger or other business. It worked out, the redcap had to haul a lot of baggage upstairs for the other folks, he was very apologetic for the delay. Got me to the family bedroom and less than 3-4 minutes later the train was moving and I was on it![/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]The SCA stopped by in short order, gave me the briefing and I was off to the lounge car to see the sights as we left Chicago. Plenty of ice in the sleeping car, plenty of seats in the lounge car, dinner reservations made, time to kick back, relax, figure out how to use the camera, and make the big decision on when cocktail hour started. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]The ride out to Naperville was uneventful. The ride was smooth and quiet. The lounge car was in very nice condition as was the sleeper. The sleeper on the CONO needed some work. We were moving right along and I thought it was time to see how bad, noisy it was going to be in the family bedroom. What a pleasant surprise I had in store. Amazingly quiet and a smooth ride. It remained smooth and quiet for the entire ride all the way out to Reno. What a relief![/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]Turns out that my SCA had come up to Chicago the night before on the same CONO all the way from New Orleans. I don’t recall however if he had been working in the other sleeper or just dead heading up to Chicago to start his assignment. Nice man, coming up on 30 years of service. He told me that the California Zephyr was one of his preferred routes. It is usually a good crowd and at this time of year mainly older retired singles or couples and with time on their hands so not too crazy or even interested about precise timing. The bigger issue is getting there and crossing another one off the “bucket list”. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]Very nice ride thru Iowa and Nebraska, smooth and the scenery was nice, same same scenery but still nice. A steady stream of folks in and out of the lounge car doing some exploring and visiting with other passengers---where are you from and where are you going—that kind of thing. Some turned into longer conversations—others did not and just ended with –enjoy the trip! [/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]There was one man on the train that wanted or just plain needed to talk with everyone. Anyone who would listen. A book toting fellow in a tweed coat and a pair of jeans. A flashback to my generation of TV that had “Danger Will Robinson” written all over him. In addition, his voice was the one you hear from the other side of the restaurant, word for word. Harmless, but no “off” button. He could and did talk about anything and everything and in his mind with great authority. This guy turned the lounge into what looked like a game of musical chairs. As he got closer to my end of the lounge car I just said to myself, John you have options here. This is not a plane—you can get up and move, so I did. I then decided it was time for cocktail hour and so it was! A nice set of options available on the train—no remain seated with your seat belt on for me.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]Dinner in the dining car was just fine, steak prepared the way I like it, service was prompt and courteous. Enjoyed the company of a recently retired man and his daughter on the way to California. The daughter was getting ready to graduate from college and start her career. The daughter had chosen to take the train trip with dad during her spring break rather than do the college thing in Cancun or wherever they go these days. It was pretty cool.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]Thought I would spend a little time in the lounge after dinner only to find the “Danger Will Robinson” sign was on. Talking man was still at it. Another great option, back to the room. Turned in and woke up later on, we were stopped at the station in Omaha. Got up and got off for a smoke break. There was a bit of a crowd at the end of the train watching while a special “Mobile Lab” car was being added. There was a bit of a problem with the cable connections so we lost quite a bit of time there.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]Nice breakfast in the morning on the way into Denver. This was the day I had really been looking forward to—seeing the much touted Denver station—and the trip up into the Rocky mountains. Research I had done here in the forum and clips on you tube really had me pumped up. The conductor informed us however that due to the unexpected delay in Omaha we were running behind and would be getting out of Denver ASAP. So, erring on the side of caution, no trip into the station for me. Good choice—funny story later about that![/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]Anyway, platform area in Denver is very nice. Clean as a whistle, very modern looking. Some track work still being completed, it’s just impressive. It was a beautiful clear, crisp morning and I took the time to walk the length of the train a few times and watch as the window washing team did their thing—fast and furious. Also got to see the “Mobile Lab” car that was added in Omaha and got some info. about it. In short, a previously retired car from the 50’s, retro-fitted to do track geometry measurements along the way. I believe the man said it was on it’s way to California. A gentleman who had gone inside told me it was a bit Spartan on the inside but outfitted with several computers that took and stored the measurements which could then be downloaded to the track maintenance units as needed. The issue in Omaha came about because the Superliner car cable was certainly long enough to hook up to another Superliner but a little dicey when hooking up to a single level car. The concern was that the upcoming curves in the track might cause the cables to pull apart. I had to chuckle a little when I saw the solution. Big cable ties wrapped around each of the cables from each car and then additional cable ties attached to the other cable ties to cinch them up so they could not come apart. Practical and it worked.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]We got the “all aboard” call and I was right there. We pulled out, got about ½ mile and I assume had to wait for permission to get on the mainline. That took about 20 minutes and we were underway. This being the reported highlight of the trip for scenery, the lounge car was full as you would expect, lots of cameras at the ready and lots of chatter. Noses on the windows.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]Lots of oohs and ahs as we climbed up into the mountains. Lots of information about the many tunnels we were in and out of along the way. The guide was quite good and the PA system good and clear. It was a while before we started to see any snow outside and as we climbed higher we got into some clouds and overcast that I hoped was just temporary and it was. Eventually more snow appeared but certainly not as much as my imagination suggested there should be. It was at this point that many conversations got started and continued all the way to Reno about the economic impact of the lack of snow. For many heading all the way out to California, the conversation(s) were more ominous centering on the already existing water shortage and the sure to come restrictions on water in the west. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]Sometime around lunch we were informed that we would be following the Colorado River for about 250 miles and would also be seeing long stretches of Interstate 70, considered by most to be the crown jewel of the interstate system here in the U.S.. I have to agree—it was spectacular! The guide kept us well informed without being too much information.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]At one of the stops I chatted with the LSA during a smoke break, a very personable young man. He echoed the same sentiments about this particular trip as the SCA had earlier. He went a little further and with great enthusiasm stated he would take this assignment anytime he could get it. It is always interesting, one of the more interesting and funny segments is coming up soon. He says, “we call it the moon river segment”. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]Apparently, a lot of folks put in their canoes on this upper portion of the river and feel obligated or tradition bound to moon Amtrak as it goes by. Some from the river bank and some of the more seasoned, sure-footed traditionalists standing up in the canoe in the middle of the river. Sure enough, a little while later we cruised by the “committed” or perhaps better said, the about to be “committed”. It was hilarious. It was also the only time on the trip that talking man was speechless! At the next smoke stop, the LSA and I just looked at each other and burst out laughing![/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]Dinner was very pleasant again highlighted by the conversation about the couple that just had to see the restored station in Denver. So they did and then they got to take a frantic $175 cab ride to the next station after missing the train. Let’s just say that at the next smoke stop, I wasn’t the only one with one hand on the train![/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]Got into Salt Lake late that evening. A lot had changed since my last trip there before the Olympics. The platform area is nice but looks like a bit of a walk from the station/waiting area. The SCA from the other sleeping car couldn’t tell me much about the old station I remember seeing years ago and in fact she did not know if it had been torn down or not. Anyway, got to stretch my legs quite a bit and then retired to the sleeping car for the overnight to my last stop in the morning—Reno. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]We made up time during the night and was informed we would be an on-time arrival in Reno. So, down to breakfast, pleasant small talk with the gentleman across from me who was going all the way to the end. As we looked out the window we were trying to figure out if the white on the ground was early morning frost or something else. The other man at our table said it was alkaline in the ground. One thing for sure, it looked very dry, desolate and we were in the middle of nowhere. Eventually, Reno came into view in the distance, before I knew it we were in the “trench”. Alas, time to get off the train! Unfortunately, not just a smoke stop this time![/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]Was it woth it? For me, definitely. Would I do it again? Tomorrow if I could.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]A few after thoughts and tips if you will.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]The availability and contributions made by the members and guests here at AU allowed me to plan this trip and have “reasonable expectations”. Tips on the pricing buckets were also of great help. In the end, checking back on the fares routinely, although admittedly, almost fanatically, did save me quite a bit of money and allowed me to upgrade to the family bedroom at the last minute, which if available, I would do again. It is unfortunate however, that booking well in advance doesn’t always net you a good price and I suspect that some may be scared off at the pricing when looking 6 or so months out. Had I not been here in the forum, I would probably not have thought to go back and check for possible price reductions. So, thanks for that.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]I did not dwell on the individual performance(s) of the SCA, LSA, Dining Car staff, etc. knowing that in the end, it is a job. No matter where you go, you meet some who are great and enjoy what they do, some who are very adequate and yes some who give you pause for concern. Where you draw the line(s) is a matter of individual taste and a matter of what matters most to you. For me, this was about doing what you can, while you can and when you can. Seeing more of this country at ground level vs. 30,000 ft. is worth it to me. Having the option to get up and move around or retreat to your room is great. So, I did not feel obligated to provide a performance review on all I encountered. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]On time performance was also not a major issue for me. I boarded knowing that there may be some delays at the intermediate stops but would likely arrive at the end point, in my case Reno, within an hour or so of the scheduled arrival due to the padding built into the schedule. So, I booked my connecting flight to Phoenix later in the day to avoid “stress by design” as I like to call it.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]I will say however, as a smoker, once you begin to run behind on the schedule it can make you a little anxious. You may not be able to get off the train to indulge as often as you thought you were going to. The “stay by the train” and be ready to board announcement takes on a new meaning. Your watch is of no value at that point—your ears are your best friend! Just be ready for that.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]All in all a trip enjoyed and well worth it. Currently, trying to stay current on the honey-do list so that next year I can do it again with permission and endorsement in that order![/SIZE]
 
Outstanding trip report, thanks for sharing! Also why not join AU as a member, its Free and the benefits are great!!

You'll want to complete the Zephyr route from Reno to Emrtyville through the Sierras, the scenery is equal to that in Colorado IMO, some would even say better!
 
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Great report, I enjoyed reading it. City of New Orleans to California Zephyr is my favorite Amtrak route and now I am doing it at least once a year and sometimes twice. My next adventure on this very route depart New Orleans May 27.
 
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