What a birthday! Can you imagine! Actually, I, strictly speaking, was not in the Rockies when I turned 60 (9/21) but was one day closer East. One point for anybody thinking about a trip to Canada, do note that the more glorious scenery does not begin until around Jasper. Going west I left Toronto on a Tuesday morning and did not get to Jasper until Thursday afternon, Vancouver Friday morinng. But the other scenery is neat, also, lots of lakes, etc.
But I had to leave Atlanta first. The Crescent left on time and I was served in my room by John, a veteran of 26 great years.He is one of the best sleeping car attendants I have ever had. My T-bone steak that night was one of the best, as was the french toast and sausage the next morning. The angusburger for lunch was B plus.We arrived NYC about eight minutes late.
I checked into the Hotel Pennsylvania, where I had stayed last year during the power outage. I began feeling "funny" and decided to re-trace my steps which I took last year in the dark. I found myself walking down the 13 flights of stairs I had to do last year in the dark(up and down last year, just down this year, thank you).Evidently I needed some "closure" to that ordeal last year....and did not even realize it.
Next morning found me at Penn Station having my credentials(I chose to take my passport) and ticket looked over before boarding the Maple Leaf to Toronto. Everybody has to stand in line and have that done. They also put labels on your carry-on bags. I think they said you can't check baggage. I never do anyway.
From the Maple Leaf, I enjoyed seeing the Big City wake up(not that it ever goes to sleep) and the splendid view to be found along the Hudson River, boats and things, even a swan! Also, of course, West Point Academy.
I always dread customs but this went smoothly enough . The customs guy in my car tried to look and act mean, and he probably was, but I got by ok. I did go business class and the attendants were good in both countries( complete crew change into Canada and the same back) .They opened the snack bar for business class passengers first, as they should. (going out that is). I had had a nice conversation with the Canadian snack attendant, telling him what I was going to do in Canada. Arrival into Toronto was 1 hr. ten minutes down.
I had a room at the Strathcona hotel, a nice small hotel in the shadows of the much more famous Royal York, each one very near the station, (Royal York across the street). It was a hoot watching the news and the temps--they use celsius not fahrenheit. They claimed the temp outside was 17 and that Atlanta the next day was going to be 20!!! I eventually caught on. It was actually lovely weather in NYC and Toronto though kind of chilly further west , and I did go with both short sleeve and long sleeve shirts and a jacket, needed them all.
Tuesday morning 9/14 found me on the Canadian leaving at 9 a.m. for three nights west. There is a lounge in the station for sleeping car passengers similar to Amtrak's Club Acela. I am not sure if it was for first class on all trains or just the Canadian. One negative on board I noticed right away---it could use some carpet rejuvenation in places. I settled into my double bedroom. Very similar to a deluxe bedroom but no personal shower. Also no sofa during the day, just two chairs. Not very comfortable but one spends a lot of time in the domes and the lounges. Let me say up front that ALL crew members were helpful and nice, easy to engage in conversation. There is a complete crew change each direction in Winnepeg, so making the round trip as I did, one encounters four sets of crews, including your sleeping car attendant and the dining car staff. You remember to tip in Winnepeg as they are ready to deboard.
There were four hangers in my room, just what I needed with a little doubling up. There is a handbook directory of on board services in the rooms much as one finds in many hotels. A nice touch. My car was just behind one of the diners and just three in front of the "Park car", the domed Observation lounge. It is so named because cars of that type are named after parks. Somehow, as a marketing theme VIA has enhanced what is usually an obscure bit of info for railroaders ( the name of a car) into a very public word usage. Their sleepers are mostly named Manor, though a few are named Chateau. There is sign on the doors which says "Do not disturb" on one side and "Please make up this room" on the other.
Our consist west was: 2 locos to Jasper, three beyond
ne baggage dorm,3 coaches, one skytop dome (coach passengers eat there, not in the diners); one diner,3 sleeper, another skytop dome lounge, a diner, 5 sleepers, skytop lounge, another diner, 3 sleepers and the "park car"--Observation lounge-dome(also with a few sleeping car rooms). Twenty-one in all
I was going to record all menus but that would have been too much trouble.The food was good though sometimes the meals seemed a little unusual. I believe Steve4031 has said there is a place on line where you can examine the menus.
The dining was rather regimented. You ate in the same diner at the same setting each new day. I was always first setting when I could get it(once,
east bound, I could not). Each new dining car crew introduced themselves. A little ceremony once we were all seated. The menus had no prices on them, as only first class passengers ate in the regular diners and meals are included.
I have an internet friend in Edmonton, Alberta, and he arranged to come and meet me as my train stopped there for a 50 minutes fuel stop,etc.
Some randon notes---the toilets are not retention, they do flush out onto the tracks, I witnessed that several times. They do not flush directly onto the tracks, that is, you cannot see the track as you could on some equipment in the USA.
It is hard to say which is better, Amtrak's superliner or the old dome and observation car set-up. Let's just say each is different. On a superliner you are upstairs(in most cases) in your room or seat and if the lounge is too crowded you can always stay in your location and see quite well.
But in a dome you can see straight ahead(and behind) and that is neat. It is mesmerizing to sit there and watch the train go around curves (about one hundred million in Canada). It is neat at night when the dome lights are off inside, and you can see the lights of the train go around and around and around...........
We had a simple continental breakfast into Vancouver, about an hour late. VIA has to stop for freights too, sometimes. But it keeps the schedule fairly well, lots of padding. Lots of flag stops but in my experience it ignored most of them. I was told that it was not unknown for a canoeist or for moose hunters to flag the huge train down out in the middle of nowhere.
Had a neat stay in Vancouver, from Friday morning until Sunday night, Sept. 19. Took one of the types of Grayline tours which allow you to get on or off the various stops you choose. Good for two days. Vancouver has some interesting local transportaton but sorry to say I did not make time to get into that. I was not expecting it, and had plans otherwise.
I arrived at the Vancouver station to come back home about 1:30 for a 5:30 departure. They were already set up to take your ticket and relieve you of your baggage. It would be taken to your room for you. A neat touch. About 3:30 the doors swing open to another Club Acela type lounge with iced tea, lemonade and some snacks, part of it like a patio. Live piano music. The guy took requests and tried to specialize in railroad songs. However, he did not know "On the Atchison Topeka and the Santa Fe", my request. He did play songs like "City of New Orleans" and "Chattanooga Choo Choo".
The consist coming back east was 30 cars long(though three of them were deadheads). They were 3 deadheads, baggage dorm, 3 coaches, one skytop lounge, 3 sleepers, one skytop lounge, diner, 11 sleepers, sky top lounge, diner, 3 sleepers, observation car. For any who want them , I did record the eastbound sleeping car names. Some manor and some Chateau. Just ask if you want that. The train, being so long, was parked on two tracks, And , it did make some double stops along the way. Ultimately, though, we arrived back in Toronto about 20 minutes early.
I saw two black bears en route. Many more people wave at the train there. Many British, German, Asian etc tourists. Quite a few from the States.The train sometimes the only transportation available (true in the states,also, of course. Sometimes it is even the way to get people with medical emergencies to the hospital. All good arguments to keep such trains running, in either country. I especially enjoyed the long stop at Jasper, B.C. Lots of tour buses and some other trains branch off from here, for a bigger dose of the more exotic mountain scenery. We stopped at Parry Sound, the home of Bobby Orr of the Boston Bruins. They used the p.a. system with moderation, I would say. Of course I only have these two trips to compare. They did use it more on the eastbound so guess it depends on the crew.
A special note about dinner eastbound. The train arrives Toronto at 8 p.m., rather early to accomplish three dinner sittings and then have to close up shop. So they begin the first sitting at 4:45 rather than 5. Most importantly they ask you at LUNCH what your main course will be at DINNER. ALso, they only offer you ONE choice of things like fruit juice etc, so they bring the starters and such to the table and you take that one or nothing. But the result is, everybody leaves the diner feeling satisifed, they were not too rushed as we got our entree early, etc. It works. Guess when it is running three hours late it is just business as usual.
Coming back I stayed at the very glorious Fairmont Royal York Hotel, right across the street from the station, I had reserved a room at a good price,(well, sort of ). I heartily recommend it. Breakfast buffet next morning was splendid. If only I was not dreading having to sit still during customs, and not being able to use the restroom I would have eaten and drunk more. Customs coming back was ok, by the way.
On my Maple Leaf trip back, the same VIA snack car attendant was in the business class. He remembered me, I told him how great my trip was. The Amtrak attendant who boarded at Niagara Falls, NY, did not know what he was doing, had some attitude, and made one general announcement for everybody when he was to open,rather than letting us in business class have first grabs. Incidentally,I really enjoyed the smoked turkey sandwich in this car in each direction. This train got rocked somewhere, I think we were already in the states.
There was engine trouble of some sort out of Albany and we got to NYP 1 hr. 50 minutes late. Glad I only had to walk across the street to the Hotel Pennsylvania. This time, I went on to sleep, I did not need to find any more "closure".
Next morning I met up with Alan B. in the hotel lobby. We left NYP at 9:39 on #6227 Montclair Mid-Town Direct. Changed at Montclair Univ. to Dover.(Superliner Diner had joined us at Newark) We came back from Dover on M&E Local #628 to Hoboken.I really enjoyed the beautifully restored and/or maintained station at Hoboken. Reminded me of what stations used to look like all over the country. Superliner Diner left us here on shiny light rail cars. Alan and I took PATH back. Alan stayed with me to my hotel to retrieve my bags and walk across the street to Club Acela at NYP. I was going to grab a quick lunch but realized the Crescent would be boarding in an hour, I would be eating an early dinner and there were enough snacks in Club Acela.
The Crescent left on time but arrived ATl the next morning three minutes late. I ate breakfast with a man who actually still used the train for serious overnight business travel, he travels frequently from Washington to Atlanta. My meals in this direction were B-plus. They had been A-plus going north.
Finally, home again.It was one very great trip.
But I had to leave Atlanta first. The Crescent left on time and I was served in my room by John, a veteran of 26 great years.He is one of the best sleeping car attendants I have ever had. My T-bone steak that night was one of the best, as was the french toast and sausage the next morning. The angusburger for lunch was B plus.We arrived NYC about eight minutes late.
I checked into the Hotel Pennsylvania, where I had stayed last year during the power outage. I began feeling "funny" and decided to re-trace my steps which I took last year in the dark. I found myself walking down the 13 flights of stairs I had to do last year in the dark(up and down last year, just down this year, thank you).Evidently I needed some "closure" to that ordeal last year....and did not even realize it.
Next morning found me at Penn Station having my credentials(I chose to take my passport) and ticket looked over before boarding the Maple Leaf to Toronto. Everybody has to stand in line and have that done. They also put labels on your carry-on bags. I think they said you can't check baggage. I never do anyway.
From the Maple Leaf, I enjoyed seeing the Big City wake up(not that it ever goes to sleep) and the splendid view to be found along the Hudson River, boats and things, even a swan! Also, of course, West Point Academy.
I always dread customs but this went smoothly enough . The customs guy in my car tried to look and act mean, and he probably was, but I got by ok. I did go business class and the attendants were good in both countries( complete crew change into Canada and the same back) .They opened the snack bar for business class passengers first, as they should. (going out that is). I had had a nice conversation with the Canadian snack attendant, telling him what I was going to do in Canada. Arrival into Toronto was 1 hr. ten minutes down.
I had a room at the Strathcona hotel, a nice small hotel in the shadows of the much more famous Royal York, each one very near the station, (Royal York across the street). It was a hoot watching the news and the temps--they use celsius not fahrenheit. They claimed the temp outside was 17 and that Atlanta the next day was going to be 20!!! I eventually caught on. It was actually lovely weather in NYC and Toronto though kind of chilly further west , and I did go with both short sleeve and long sleeve shirts and a jacket, needed them all.
Tuesday morning 9/14 found me on the Canadian leaving at 9 a.m. for three nights west. There is a lounge in the station for sleeping car passengers similar to Amtrak's Club Acela. I am not sure if it was for first class on all trains or just the Canadian. One negative on board I noticed right away---it could use some carpet rejuvenation in places. I settled into my double bedroom. Very similar to a deluxe bedroom but no personal shower. Also no sofa during the day, just two chairs. Not very comfortable but one spends a lot of time in the domes and the lounges. Let me say up front that ALL crew members were helpful and nice, easy to engage in conversation. There is a complete crew change each direction in Winnepeg, so making the round trip as I did, one encounters four sets of crews, including your sleeping car attendant and the dining car staff. You remember to tip in Winnepeg as they are ready to deboard.
There were four hangers in my room, just what I needed with a little doubling up. There is a handbook directory of on board services in the rooms much as one finds in many hotels. A nice touch. My car was just behind one of the diners and just three in front of the "Park car", the domed Observation lounge. It is so named because cars of that type are named after parks. Somehow, as a marketing theme VIA has enhanced what is usually an obscure bit of info for railroaders ( the name of a car) into a very public word usage. Their sleepers are mostly named Manor, though a few are named Chateau. There is sign on the doors which says "Do not disturb" on one side and "Please make up this room" on the other.
Our consist west was: 2 locos to Jasper, three beyond
ne baggage dorm,3 coaches, one skytop dome (coach passengers eat there, not in the diners); one diner,3 sleeper, another skytop dome lounge, a diner, 5 sleepers, skytop lounge, another diner, 3 sleepers and the "park car"--Observation lounge-dome(also with a few sleeping car rooms). Twenty-one in allI was going to record all menus but that would have been too much trouble.The food was good though sometimes the meals seemed a little unusual. I believe Steve4031 has said there is a place on line where you can examine the menus.
The dining was rather regimented. You ate in the same diner at the same setting each new day. I was always first setting when I could get it(once,
east bound, I could not). Each new dining car crew introduced themselves. A little ceremony once we were all seated. The menus had no prices on them, as only first class passengers ate in the regular diners and meals are included.
I have an internet friend in Edmonton, Alberta, and he arranged to come and meet me as my train stopped there for a 50 minutes fuel stop,etc.
Some randon notes---the toilets are not retention, they do flush out onto the tracks, I witnessed that several times. They do not flush directly onto the tracks, that is, you cannot see the track as you could on some equipment in the USA.
It is hard to say which is better, Amtrak's superliner or the old dome and observation car set-up. Let's just say each is different. On a superliner you are upstairs(in most cases) in your room or seat and if the lounge is too crowded you can always stay in your location and see quite well.
But in a dome you can see straight ahead(and behind) and that is neat. It is mesmerizing to sit there and watch the train go around curves (about one hundred million in Canada). It is neat at night when the dome lights are off inside, and you can see the lights of the train go around and around and around...........
We had a simple continental breakfast into Vancouver, about an hour late. VIA has to stop for freights too, sometimes. But it keeps the schedule fairly well, lots of padding. Lots of flag stops but in my experience it ignored most of them. I was told that it was not unknown for a canoeist or for moose hunters to flag the huge train down out in the middle of nowhere.
Had a neat stay in Vancouver, from Friday morning until Sunday night, Sept. 19. Took one of the types of Grayline tours which allow you to get on or off the various stops you choose. Good for two days. Vancouver has some interesting local transportaton but sorry to say I did not make time to get into that. I was not expecting it, and had plans otherwise.
I arrived at the Vancouver station to come back home about 1:30 for a 5:30 departure. They were already set up to take your ticket and relieve you of your baggage. It would be taken to your room for you. A neat touch. About 3:30 the doors swing open to another Club Acela type lounge with iced tea, lemonade and some snacks, part of it like a patio. Live piano music. The guy took requests and tried to specialize in railroad songs. However, he did not know "On the Atchison Topeka and the Santa Fe", my request. He did play songs like "City of New Orleans" and "Chattanooga Choo Choo".
The consist coming back east was 30 cars long(though three of them were deadheads). They were 3 deadheads, baggage dorm, 3 coaches, one skytop lounge, 3 sleepers, one skytop lounge, diner, 11 sleepers, sky top lounge, diner, 3 sleepers, observation car. For any who want them , I did record the eastbound sleeping car names. Some manor and some Chateau. Just ask if you want that. The train, being so long, was parked on two tracks, And , it did make some double stops along the way. Ultimately, though, we arrived back in Toronto about 20 minutes early.
I saw two black bears en route. Many more people wave at the train there. Many British, German, Asian etc tourists. Quite a few from the States.The train sometimes the only transportation available (true in the states,also, of course. Sometimes it is even the way to get people with medical emergencies to the hospital. All good arguments to keep such trains running, in either country. I especially enjoyed the long stop at Jasper, B.C. Lots of tour buses and some other trains branch off from here, for a bigger dose of the more exotic mountain scenery. We stopped at Parry Sound, the home of Bobby Orr of the Boston Bruins. They used the p.a. system with moderation, I would say. Of course I only have these two trips to compare. They did use it more on the eastbound so guess it depends on the crew.
A special note about dinner eastbound. The train arrives Toronto at 8 p.m., rather early to accomplish three dinner sittings and then have to close up shop. So they begin the first sitting at 4:45 rather than 5. Most importantly they ask you at LUNCH what your main course will be at DINNER. ALso, they only offer you ONE choice of things like fruit juice etc, so they bring the starters and such to the table and you take that one or nothing. But the result is, everybody leaves the diner feeling satisifed, they were not too rushed as we got our entree early, etc. It works. Guess when it is running three hours late it is just business as usual.
Coming back I stayed at the very glorious Fairmont Royal York Hotel, right across the street from the station, I had reserved a room at a good price,(well, sort of ). I heartily recommend it. Breakfast buffet next morning was splendid. If only I was not dreading having to sit still during customs, and not being able to use the restroom I would have eaten and drunk more. Customs coming back was ok, by the way.
On my Maple Leaf trip back, the same VIA snack car attendant was in the business class. He remembered me, I told him how great my trip was. The Amtrak attendant who boarded at Niagara Falls, NY, did not know what he was doing, had some attitude, and made one general announcement for everybody when he was to open,rather than letting us in business class have first grabs. Incidentally,I really enjoyed the smoked turkey sandwich in this car in each direction. This train got rocked somewhere, I think we were already in the states.
There was engine trouble of some sort out of Albany and we got to NYP 1 hr. 50 minutes late. Glad I only had to walk across the street to the Hotel Pennsylvania. This time, I went on to sleep, I did not need to find any more "closure".
Next morning I met up with Alan B. in the hotel lobby. We left NYP at 9:39 on #6227 Montclair Mid-Town Direct. Changed at Montclair Univ. to Dover.(Superliner Diner had joined us at Newark) We came back from Dover on M&E Local #628 to Hoboken.I really enjoyed the beautifully restored and/or maintained station at Hoboken. Reminded me of what stations used to look like all over the country. Superliner Diner left us here on shiny light rail cars. Alan and I took PATH back. Alan stayed with me to my hotel to retrieve my bags and walk across the street to Club Acela at NYP. I was going to grab a quick lunch but realized the Crescent would be boarding in an hour, I would be eating an early dinner and there were enough snacks in Club Acela.
The Crescent left on time but arrived ATl the next morning three minutes late. I ate breakfast with a man who actually still used the train for serious overnight business travel, he travels frequently from Washington to Atlanta. My meals in this direction were B-plus. They had been A-plus going north.
Finally, home again.It was one very great trip.
