Chicago Layover

[NorthShore]

It kills me that while the hotel was named after the London House, a dinner club/jazz club that occupied the first floor for years, and was home to many classic jazz recordings of the 50s and 60s, they didn't actually open a jazz club anywhere on the property. Lost opportunity.

They do, however, regularly host small jazz groups on the rooftop and in the lobby.

 

[NorthShore]

Many of the best breakfast places are in the neighborhoods. Some even have sidewalk cafe service.

 

[RSG]

3) Let me preface my next point by saying that it could be me as much as anything...but...all three places had a sort of...hmmmm...trust fund kiddie, Big Ten fratbro vibe to them. Could be the time I went. Again, it could be me. Just putting that out there.

It's not just you. Perhaps it's better on weeknights during autumn. *fingers crossed*

I agree that the London House has the best view, but man... the Chicago Athletic Association is just GORGEOUS.

I was at a reception held at the Chicago Athletic Association in June. I will third it as a place to visit to see what they've done with the place. It rates up there with Palmer House, et al, as an example of "what it used to be like". But I found the layout confusing. I first took one of the public accessible elevators up to what I thought was the event space, and shared the elevator with one of the above described types and his female companion who were going to one of the bars, which I found was the only location that the elevator went to. I then returned immediately to the lobby and wandered around trying to figure out how to get upstairs (even by using the staircase I had seen on the bar level) when I noticed fellow attendees wander in and who got the bouncer/host for the restaurant to use the mandatory keycard to allow elevator access to the function spaces.

Later during my stay, when I searched for late night dining spots, the restaurant there (whose name escapes me at the moment) always popped up on the list. But that was the restaurant that everyone was queued in line for when I visited, with most of the women ("chickadees", as a female friend would call them) in cocktail dresses. As a solo visitor, I found the 'scene' very intimidating (but less so than if I were of the age group of most of the clientele that night).

Suggestion: visit in the afternoon or on an off night (I'm guessing that would be Monday or Tuesday) when the hordes of young beautiful people with too much money are not out to see and be seen.

 

[Mystic River Dragon]

I forgot all about the Palmer House--I would like to see that lobby. Whatever I do, it will definitely be lunch on a weekday--I'm not a night person and would never go out at night by myself anyway.

I found another place all by myself : the Walnut Room at Macy's--I am hoping to have one lunch there. I am old enough to just vaguely remember the lovely restaurants in department stores and was so sad when most of them disappeared.

There's so much to look at that, after I find the Tribune Tower, which I don't want to miss, I may just wander and look at whatever I come across.

 

[MisterUptempo]

The Walnut Room is very nice. Many memories of going there growing up, when it was still Marshall Field and Co.. At Christmastime, we'd head over to the Walnut Room after visiting Santa at the Cozy Cloud Cottage. Usually ordered the chicken pot pie. My parents and I carried on that tradition with our nieces, and I hope it's still there when they have families.

img src - flickr.com

While you're at Macy's, ask an employee to direct you to the Tiffany Dome, which sits high above a large atrium.

img src - flickr.com

You mentioned you are visiting during autumn. If you're here on October 14 & 15 (Saturday and Sunday), The Chicago Architecture Foundation is presenting "Open House Chicago", in which many of the city's more architecturally unique buildings will be open to explore. It happens in many neighborhoods around town, but the largest group of open buildings will be in the downtown area. It's free. More info is available at the following URL - https://openhousechicago.org/

If you won't be in town for "Open House Chicago", The Chicago Architectural Foundation has guided tours all year long, though a fee is charged. The link to the available CAF tours is as follows - https://www.architecture.org/experience-caf/tours/

You also mentioned that you are staying at the Hilton Garden Inn at 66 E. Wacker Pl., correct? If you get just a minute or two spare, maybe while waiting for a cab/uber, just stick your head inside the Hampton Inn hotel, which is the building immediately to the east of yours, 68 E. Wacker Pl.. It is yet another converted office building. It served as the home of the Chicago Motor Club for many years, and is a very fine example of Art Deco. The lobby/lounge has a great map of the United States, just above the elevator bank. I wouldn't suggest going out of your way to see it, but since you will be staying right next door, it's worth a moment of your time.

img src - urbanremainschicago.com

 

[Mystic River Dragon]

Thank you, MisterUpTempo,

Those are wonderful suggestions! I will be there for part of the day Oct. 14, so I will visit some of the free buildings. And I absolutely love Tiffany, so will look at that gorgeous ceiling! I did read that the Hampton Inn was Art Deco and will poke my head in and look at it. (I thought of staying there because of the free breakfast, but when I checked the rates, it was $20 more than what I had booked, which pretty much negated the free breakfast idea!)

I am getting excited about visiting Chicago, but between the Walnut Room pot pie and the Tiffany ceiling and my visitors pass for 10 percent off, I may never get out of Macys!

 

[Metra Electric Rider]

If you love Tiffany make sure you visit the Chicago Cultural Center (the former main public library) which has a massive Tiffany dome - largest of it's kind. It's a very ornate public building, to say the least. It's one block east of Marshall Field's (yeah, yeah, the M store now) on Michigan between Randolph and Washington and is also accessible from the pedway.

The Chicago Art Deco Society was very involved in the Motor Club restoration which turned out very nicely (disclaimer: this group has several cross members).

 

[Mystic River Dragon]

Oh my goodness.

At first I thought Chicago was going to be all Frank Lloyd Wright (who I blame for messing up a perfectly lovely waterfall that was minding its own business) and weird sculptures and didn't think there would be anything I'd be interested in.

Now it's the opposite problem--so much I want to see and so little time!

When I google map how to get from here to there walking, it keeps telling me to take the Pedway, which I gather is a bunch of pedestrian tunnels and stairs. Can you still walk along the sidewalks everywhere to get around, or do you have to walk through tunnels and up stairs on certain routes?

 

[Metra Electric Rider]

Oh my goodness.

At first I thought Chicago was going to be all Frank Lloyd Wright (who I blame for messing up a perfectly lovely waterfall that was minding its own business) and weird sculptures and didn't think there would be anything I'd be interested in.

Now it's the opposite problem--so much I want to see and so little time!

When I google map how to get from here to there walking, it keeps telling me to take the Pedway, which I gather is a bunch of pedestrian tunnels and stairs. Can you still walk along the sidewalks everywhere to get around, or do you have to walk through tunnels and up stairs on certain routes?

No, not allowed, sidewalks are so 20th Century! The pedway is actually kind of fun (though I think the stained glass from around Macy's have now been removed) but better for inclement weather - though it makes getting up to Illinois Center (east of Michigan Avenue) easier since it has escalators.

If you are walking on Michigan between South Water (location of Motor Club) and the Cultural Center check out the lobby of the Hard Rock Hotel (formerly Carbon and Carbide Building) - prime art deco and viewed from afar meant to look like a champagne bottle! Also worth a look if you can get in is the 17th Church of Christ Scientist at Wacker and South Water which is mid-60's but not FLW style or Miesian. It's right next to your hotel.

 

[MisterUptempo]

Oh my goodness.

At first I thought Chicago was going to be all Frank Lloyd Wright (who I blame for messing up a perfectly lovely waterfall that was minding its own business) and weird sculptures and didn't think there would be anything I'd be interested in.

Now it's the opposite problem--so much I want to see and so little time!

When I google map how to get from here to there walking, it keeps telling me to take the Pedway, which I gather is a bunch of pedestrian tunnels and stairs. Can you still walk along the sidewalks everywhere to get around, or do you have to walk through tunnels and up stairs on certain routes?

If you're looking for Frank Lloyd Wright, you'll find little of him in the downtown area. The most famous example of Wright's work downtown is The Rookery Building light court, and even that does not reflect his Prairie School style.

img src - therookerybuilding.com

If Wright interests you, taking the CTA Green Line or Metra-Union Pacific West to Oak Park would be your best bet, where a number of homes and the Unity Temple (which just received an extensive restoration) reside.

Within Chicago city limits, The Robie House is one of the better known Wright works. It's located within the confines of the University of Chicago Campus. I do not know what the tour policies are; though it is on the list of "Open House Chicago", it will only be available on Sunday.

The whole area is worthy of a day, really. The Oriental Institute, which is an incredible, but often overlooked, museum is right there. The Rockefeller Chapel, also nearby, sits along the Midway Plaisance. The Plaisance served as a carnival/sideshow midway during the Columbian Exposition of 1893. The U of Chicago campus sits on either side of the Plaisance, and links two massive city parks, Washington Park to the west and Jackson Park to the east.

On the west end of the Plaisance, sits Lorado Taft's sculpture, "The Fountain of Time".

img src - miarchitects.com

Another of Taft's works, "Fountain of the Great Lakes" can be found outside The Art Institute, a short walk from your hotel.

Washington Park contains the DuSable Museum of African-American History. I must confess that Washington Park is located in a somewhat rough patch of town at the moment, so if you consider visiting the park, best do so during the day.

On the east end of the Plaisance is Jackson Park, which was the location of the famed "White City" of the Columbian Exhibition. Jackson Park will be the future home of the Obama Presidential Library.

Within the park sits the Garden of the Phoenix, located on the north end of Wooded Island. The island sits in between Jackson Park's east and west lagoons. A pavilion built by Japan for the Columbian Exhibition once stood on the site of the garden. The pavilion was destroyed by fire shortly after WWII.

img src - gardenofthephoenix.org

Just south of Wooded Island stands The Statue of the Republic, a 1/3 scale reproduction of a statue that stood in the "White City"

img src - flickr.com

The north end of Jackson Park is the location of The Museum of Science and Industry, which one easily could spend a day or two exploring. The museum was originally the Palace of Fine Arts during the Columbian Exhibition, and the sole surviving structure from the "White City".

Among the museum's permanent collection are a captured WWII German U-Boat, a United Airlines Boeing 727, and, of interest to rail fans, the original Burlington Prairie Zephyr,

img src - chicagomusicguide.com

as well as an impressive model railroad display. The model display features a scale model of the portion of the Loop where you will be staying, by the way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ckBBmJhouzE

source - youtube.com

The whole area can be accessed by Metra Electric District trains, at both the 55th-56th-57th Street and the 59th Street stations. Pick up the Metra Electric at Millennium Station, which is a hop, skip, and a jump from your hotel.

Forgive the novel, but it's difficult to mention one destination without mentioning all the others nearby. Considering the limited amount of time you have, just save this for the next trip to Chicago.

ETA - video attribution

 

[Metra Electric Rider]

You forgot the most important part of getting to Hyde Park - a train every 20 minutes on weekdays, though if she's coming on Saturday the schedule has been reduced.

Robie House is now run by the FLW Foundation and I believe they run frequent tours.

Plenty to see and do in Hyde Park - the U of C campus is very attractive and has two nice free art galleries, one is primarily avant garde.

But it sounds like she thinks FLW might be a smidge overrated, there is still plenty to see in that corner of downtown.

 

[Mystic River Dragon]

Thank you both

Yes, perhaps I wasn't completely clear. I want to avoid Frank Lloyd Wright as much as possible, plus that Gehry architect who seems to be responsible for a pavilion in Chicago that looks like a giant alien grasshopper and whose design the Philly Museum of Art is about to adopt and that will result in the Rocky Steps looking like they have a missing tooth. But I digress.

I love Art Deco, Louis Comfort Tiffany, the Gilded Age, anything elegant and traditional, although I can appreciate some modern stuff (a sleek and beautiful skyscraper, for example).

The photos are beautiful, and I am looking forward more than ever to visiting. I think I've got enough to keep me busy for weeks, let alone a couple of days. Maybe I will come back .

 

[Asher]

Thank you both

Yes, perhaps I wasn't completely clear. I want to avoid Frank Lloyd Wright as much as possible, plus that Gehry architect who seems to be responsible for a pavilion in Chicago that looks like a giant alien grasshopper and whose design the Philly Museum of Art is about to adopt and that will result in the Rocky Steps looking like they have a missing tooth. But I digress.

I love Art Deco, Louis Comfort Tiffany, the Gilded Age, anything elegant and traditional, although I can appreciate some modern stuff (a sleek and beautiful skyscraper, for example).

The photos are beautiful, and I am looking forward more than ever to visiting. I think I've got enough to keep me busy f or weeks, let alone a couple of days. Maybe I will come back .

All of the above are fine places to visit, I hope you have wonderful time. Before leaving you may need to slide back into the real world With a trip to Maxwell Street for a change of scenery and a Polish dog

 

[NorthShore]

If you love Tiffany make sure you visit the Chicago Cultural Center (the former main public library) which has a massive Tiffany dome - largest of it's kind. It's a very ornate public building, to say the least. It's one block east of Marshall Field's (yeah, yeah, the M store now) on Michigan between Randolph and Washington and is also accessible from the pedway.

The Chicago Art Deco Society was very involved in the Motor Club restoration which turned out very nicely (disclaimer: this group has several cross members).

Which reminds me, Friends of 261 have some cars coming into Chicago on the Empire Builder 10/14 as part of their Fall Colors trip down the Mississippi from St Paul.