Kim Jong Il

[pebbleworm]

At least Kim Jong Il likes to travel by train- just do a web search for this and all kinds of interesting stuff will come up. I was pretty impressed with this article and picture:

http://www.dailynk.com/english/read.php?ca...00&num=6318

This was one clue that the Dear Leader was about to leave the country.

 

[PetalumaLoco]

Interesting.

The reason that station had a temporary fence:

"Kim has even gone as far as Moscow by train due to his fear of flying, on a twenty-four day round trip from Pyongyang in 2002. However, the real reason for this choice of transportation is fear of terrorism and assassination attempts, a paranoia common to most dictators. This despite the fact that in April, 2004, Yongcheon Station, through which Kim’s armored train had just passed, exploded. "

From Kim Jon Il fears and complexes.

 

[jamesontheroad]

On a tangent, but no doubt of interest to anyone with railways in their blood...

Back in 2008 two Austrian friends went on the adventure of a lifetime, and travelled by train all the way from Austria to Pyongyang in North Korea by train. Nothing special about that - tour operators that serve the DPRK often allow western tourists to fly into the country and then depart by train to Beijing. But these two pulled off quite a stunt (and almost certainly one that will never be done again). They entered the DPRK not through China, but via the country's only other international rail connection, the little used Hasan/Tumangan bridge between North Korea and Russia... the two countries share only a few km of border, and it's a pretty remote and unfriendly place to go!

Twice a month, a single North Korean passenger carriage is attached to one of Russian State Railways Moscow / Vladivostok train. These two knew it existed and had even previously travelled on it for a domestic journey within Russia. But using a few insider tricks (they work in the railway industry) they were actually able to get ticketed for the entire journey and stayed in the DPRK carriage from Irkusk to Pyongyang, including a number of lengthy stops as the carriages was unhooked from one train and hooked onto another. They don't share some important details (because they don't want to encourage people to repeat the journey) but you can read their entire odyssey here:

http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/

The journey's especially impressive because they did the unthinkable, and managed to spend 36 hours inside North Korea without a guide, something that is almost impossible to achieve in the paranoid communist state. Their journey took them through regions rarely seen by foreigners, and the photographs are incredible.

*j* :blink:

 

[George Harris]

Twice a month, a single North Korean passenger carriage is attached to one of Russian State Railways Moscow / Vladivostok train. These two knew it existed and had even previously travelled on it for a domestic journey within Russia. But using a few insider tricks (they work in the railway industry) they were actually able to get ticketed for the entire journey and stayed in the DPRK carriage from Irkusk to Pyongyang, including a number of lengthy stops as the carriages was unhooked from one train and hooked onto another.

AND: This includes change of track gauge. Whether by replacing the trucks under the coach or by having wheels that can move in, I don't know. There is also regularly scheduled service between Beijing and Moscow, so the equipment that can operate on both gauges exists.

Russian (and Mongolian) Track Guage: 1520 mm = 5'-0" (really not quite, as 1520 mm is 4 mm short of 5 ft even.

Chinese and Korean (both sides) track gauge: 1435 mm = 4'-8 1/2"

I will skip discussing the "Dear Leader"'s extensive paranoia and strange habits and phobias. However, for a descent into madness, look at the North Korean websites.

A few years ago, the National Geographic published a map of "The World at Night" Therre were two national boundaries on that map readily identifyable by a precise line of cessation of light: The boundary between North Korea and South Korea and the boundary between Egypt and Sudan.

 

[jamesontheroad]

AND: This includes change of track gauge. Whether by replacing the trucks under the coach or by having wheels that can move in, I don't know. There is also regularly scheduled service between Beijing and Moscow, so the equipment that can operate on both gauges exists.

The Vienna - Pyongyang blog mentions a very rusty but functionning re-guaging facility just across the border at Tumangan station. The two gauges run parallel with each other across the border as far as the Russian terminus at Khasan, but I don't think there's a regauging facility there.

They couldn't photograph the process because of heavy security presence, but once the two were left on their own (!!!) for a couple of hours they managed to get some shots.

Here's the page chronicling the border crossing: http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/...er-station.html

And here's a direct URL to a pic of the reguaging facility: http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/4305/20080919018aj5.jpg

*j*

 

[MikefromCrete]

Boy, talk about a train trip! These guys traveled to and through places I would need an atlas to find. I thought it was pretty interesting that after all the procedures, including heavy use of the military in crossing the border from Russia to North Korea that they were left alone to wander all over the place on the North Korean side of the line while everybody went to lunch. It was interesting that they were allowed to shoot photos rather freely from the train, but once in the capital they were escorted everywhere. Of course the writer made sure to hid his photos on his computer when leaving the country.

The difference between North Korea and China was astonishing!

 

[Devil's Advocate]

Talk about an exceptional experience... What a blog. I honestly haven't been able to put it down, so to speak. Thanks so much for sharing. Something new to add to the bucket list.

 

[Ryan]

With blogspot being blocked at work, I just got around to reading this last night at home.

If you haven't read it, stop what you're doing, and say goodbye to the next hour to read it - it's incredible (both from a railfan perspective and a peek into North Korea).

 

[jamesontheroad]

Just found an amazing snippet of news - buried in October 2010's updates on the invaluable seat61.com:

Odds & ends this month....
These are some of the issues that have come up this month...

North Korea: The weekly through sleeping-cars every Friday from Moscow to Pyongyang attached to the Moscow-Beijing train will be discontinued as from 16 October. However, it's reported that the twice-monthly Moscow-Pyongyang sleepers attached to the Moscow-Vladivostok 'Rossiya' and crossing direct from Russia into North Korea may be increased in frequency and opened up to western travellers (except US ones) as a result.

Obviously no improvement for the majority of readers of this American site, but suddenly it seems I could take this trip in my life time < kisses his EU passport >.

*j*

 

[Long Train Runnin']

Just found an amazing snippet of news - buried in October 2010's updates on the invaluable seat61.com:

Odds & ends this month....
These are some of the issues that have come up this month...

North Korea: The weekly through sleeping-cars every Friday from Moscow to Pyongyang attached to the Moscow-Beijing train will be discontinued as from 16 October. However, it's reported that the twice-monthly Moscow-Pyongyang sleepers attached to the Moscow-Vladivostok 'Rossiya' and crossing direct from Russia into North Korea may be increased in frequency and opened up to western travellers (except US ones) as a result.

Obviously no improvement for the majority of readers of this American site, but suddenly it seems I could take this trip in my life time < kisses his EU passport >.

*j*

If you ever head to Pyongyang be sure to write about it!

 

[jimhudson]

:help: As an American who has been in Korea all I want to ask is who in their right mind would wnat to go to the most repressive and ugly place on earth (some of the Muslim run countriues come close but N. Korea still reighns Supreme as Hell-Hole of the Universe!) Id think that being able to write about going there might come after getting released from prison when the persons Government sent their version Of Bill Clinton or Jimmy Carter over to bribe, er negotiate the release of their countryperson!

 

[rrdude]

:help: As an American who has been in Korea all I want to ask is who in their right mind would wnat to go to the most repressive and ugly place on earth (some of the Muslim run countriues come close but N. Korea still reighns Supreme as Hell-Hole of the Universe!) Id think that being able to write about going there might come after getting released from prison when the persons Government sent their version Of Bill Clinton or Jimmy Carter over to bribe, er negotiate the release of their countryperson!

It's exactly that Jim, the allure of the unknown, the "forbidden fruit". I just RE-READ the entire North Korea rail odyssey, and found my heart pounding, again. I read it months ago, and the same thing happened.
It's kind of like "what would I do in that situation" scenario. You CAN zoom in to the rail bridge between Russia and North Korea, even though Google Maps doesn't show a single city name in North Korea. if you enter these coordinates into the Google Map search-box (not the web search-box, just the Map search-box) it will take you right to the station in Tumangan, NK.

From there, you can literally "follow" the tracks all the way to the NK capital of Pyongyang.

 

[transit54]

Hmm...according to Wikitravel:

In January 2010, North Korea lifted the restrictions on American citizens who are now free to visit at anytime of the year

I wonder if that includes traveling by train...I would have to guess not, but it might be worth a look into.

And the people in my office think I'm insane for going to Colombia!

 

[jamesontheroad]

Koryo Tours, a British company based in China, have announced their 2011 tours to the DPRK, including this one, which by the description includes a journey from N Korea into Russia along the 'forbidden' railway described in the Vienna-Pyongyang blog. EUR1390 is about USD1900

http://www.koryogroup.com/travel_Itinerary_2011_12.php

Itinerary - Tuman Triangle Tour IIJuly 1 - 9 (Fri – Sat)

8 nights in China / the DPRK / Russia

Fri 1st July

AM: Flight from Beijing to Yanji, Jilin Province, transfer to Ryugyong Hotel

PM: Free time in Yanji

OVERNIGHT: Ryugyong Hotel, Yanji (China)

Sat 2nd July

AM: Drive to China/DPRK border via viewing points in Tumen city, stopping for lunch at a countryside restaurant just metres from DPRK

PM: Drive to Wonjong Bridge – border point between China and DPRK, cross into DPRK’s Rason zone, meet guides and continue to Rajin city, Rajin Central Square

OVERNIGHT: Namsan Hotel, Rajin (DPRK)

Sun 3rd July

AM: Pipha Island Area, Emperor Hotel, Rason Taehung Trading Corporation

PM: Rajin city market, Golden Triangle bank, Rason Revolutionary History Museum, Rajin Art Gallery

OVERNIGHT: Namsan Hotel, Rajin (DPRK)

Mon 4th July

AM: Fisherman’s House and Farmer’s, House at Revolutionary site, walking tour of Rajin city centre from Railway station to Golden Triangle bank, visit the bank for explanation of the different Economic system of the Rason zone

PM: Rajin city port, Kimjongilia Hothouse, local kindergarten, Souvenir shop, bookshop, drive to Chujin beach area for dinner and relaxation

OVERNIGHT: Chujin Hotel, Rajin, (DPRK)

Tue 5th July

AM: Morning at the beach at Chujin, Sonbong City walking tour of revolutionary sites in the city centre, Sonbong city port

PM: Lunch in the city, Drive to Tumangang town for train ride into Russia, arrival at Khasan railway station, meet local guide and drive to Andreyvka Village

OVERNIGHT: Andreyvka Resort, Andreyvka (Russia)

Wed 6th July

AM: Boat trip to islands in a nature reserve, formerly a WWII-era defense base, ruined artillery and seagulls nesting areas co-exist here, hike on the island with picnic lunch

PM: Return to the mainland for free time at the resort and in the village,

OVERNIGHT: Andreyvka Resort, Andreyvka (Russia)

Thurs 7th July

AM: Early morning ferry to Vladivostok, the centre of the Russian Far East, transfer to Vladivostok Hotel

PM: Rest of group arrives from DPRK by plane, Free time in Vladivostok

OVERNIGHT: Vladivostok Hotel, Vladivostok

Fri 8th July

AM: Funicular Railway to ‘Eagle’s Nest’ for panoramic view of the city, Heroic Submarine, City Square, Waterfront walking tour

PM: Fort number 7, one of a string of tsarist era giant subterranean bunker systems built to protect the city from Japanese or Chinese invasion, Free time in the city

OVERNIGHT: Vladivostok Hotel, Vladivostok

Sat 9th July

AM: Departure by plane to Beijing. End of tour.

OR

Continue on ‘Chollima to Kolyma’ Tour – details at (coming soon)

TOUR COST: EUR 1390

VISA FEE: CNY 400 (to be paid at the pre-tour meeting)

PRE-TOUR MEETING: TBA

Room upgrades available – please ask for more information.

TOUR FEE INCLUDES THE FOLLOWING:

Flight Beijing-Pyongyang, train Pyongyang-Beijing

All meals on the tour except on the train out of DPRK – see below

Hotel accommodation

All entry fees

Two guides and a driver per group

All transportation in DPRK

NOT INCLUDED IN THE TOUR FEE:

Optional single room supplement of EUR 40 per night

Spending money for drinks and souvenirs

DPRK visa fee CNY 400

EUR 50 surcharge for the train to Beijing

EUR 50 surcharge for the plane to Beijing (or Air China surcharge EUR 120)

Tip for the guides (approx EUR 20-25 total)

Meals on the train out of DPRK - (bring your own food or eat dinner and lunch in the buffet car approximately EUR 5 per person)

Entry tickets for Mass Games and special events if applicable – for example Revolutionary Opera if being staged, or a visit to the funfair

The lift up the Juche Tower EUR 5

Meals will have a complimentary beer but you will have to pay for extra drinks above those provided. If you are vegetarian or have special dietary requirements then please inform us beforehand

 

[Devil's Advocate]

It's exactly that Jim, the allure of the unknown, the "forbidden fruit". I just RE-READ the entire North Korea rail odyssey, and found my heart pounding, again. I read it months ago, and the same thing happened.

Exactly. The appeal is strictly emotional, not logical. I have a strong curiosity for the unknown but my conscience counters some of this curiosity with the knowledge that any money I spend reaching and traveling through NK would probably end up in the hands of the very people who are shoving their boot down on the neck of the citizenry. Not something I'd ever be punished for, but something I'd be internally ashamed of.

 

[George Harris]

It's exactly that Jim, the allure of the unknown, the "forbidden fruit". I just RE-READ the entire North Korea rail odyssey, and found my heart pounding, again. I read it months ago, and the same thing happened.

Exactly. The appeal is strictly emotional, not logical. I have a strong curiosity for the unknown but my conscience counters some of this curiosity with the knowledge that any money I spend reaching and traveling through NK would probably end up in the hands of the very people who are shoving their boot down on the neck of the citizenry. Not something I'd ever be punished for, but something I'd be internally ashamed of.

Precisely! Which is why I have no intention of ever touring Vietnam, or last of all, working there. While there, I was in a position to have a group of locals working with me, and got to knwo some of them. Are any of these people still alive? Considering the way those that worked with the Americans were treated after the South was overrun, probably not. The current government is the same invading and conquering government.

 

[Anderson]

Just read the travelogue. I skipped most of the Russian section, but the Korean parts...it's astounding, really. I think that trip might have been the most uncontrolled Western access into NK in the last few decades, especially with respect to the photos shot. Amazing.

And yes, the appeal is emotional, not logical: Part of it is the "forbidden fruit" aspect...and part of it is actually being able to see a part of the world that has more or less not changed in the last half-century. I'll also say that getting to the Chinese part of the trip...it really is jarring to see two nominally Communist countries, but one that's using oxcarts and decades-old trains, and the other that more closely resembles the US or Europe.