On my way to the Canadian

[MARC Rider]

Off to the Great White North!
I'm now rolling along in Northeast Regional 164 on the first leg of my Canadian Circle trip. Changing trains in New York for a ride up the Hudson Valley on the Ethan Allen Express, and then spending the night in Albany. Omorrow morning it's the Maple Leaf to Toronto.

The train left B-more on time, and we're now rocking through northeastern Maryland at full speed, but when we get to New Jersey, this train becomes something like a New Jersey Transit Express, stopping at Trenton, Princeton Jct., New Brunswick, Metropark, Newark Airport and Newark before it rolls into New York. The trip is almost 3 hours! Still faster than driving, though. I'll have a 1:30 layover at Moynihan. More than enough time to get an authentic NY pastrami sandwich at the new Pastrami Queen in the food court.

 

[MARC Rider]

Moynihan at 1PM is a total zoo, but I guess it can be explained by the fact that an Empire Service, a Keystone, and an Acela were all boarding at the same time our Northest Regional arrived.

The lounge wasn't quite as busy.

They're serving salad in plates, but no other sandwiches. Fortunately, I stopped at Pastrami Queen in the food court.

Good pastrami, and they gave both a half sour and full sour pickle, but the service needs some tweaking. I asked for mine on rye and got it on a club roll. Somebody needs to write what's inside the wrapped sandwich. I mean, the club roll was good, but I really wanted rye, and I think there's another customer out there who's expecting a club roll and is going to be disappointed when he finds he had a pastrami on rye.

 

[MARC Rider]

Now in Albany, in my hotel room. The ride up the Hudon was OK, but the 75-year old Hickory Creek I rode the last time I took this route had a lot smoother ride than the less-than-50 year old Amfleet 1 business class cafe assigned to today's train. The Airos can't come soon enough. The rocking and rolling didn't agree with my pastrami sandwich lunch, but now that I'm off the train, I'm OK. I'm in a nice hotel, but downtown Albany is like a ghost town, which is kind of weird, considering that it's the capital of one of the largest states in the Union. The restaurant at the hotel is only serving at the bar, but I think I'm going to try a place across the street. Another little bump in the road: When I checked my bag, I found that I forgot to pack my toiletry kit, which I think was sitting on the bed this morning for me to pack. Fortunately, I packed my CPAP and prescription meds. The hotel was accommodating, and provided me with a comb, toothbrush, toothpaste, razor, and shaving cream. This is good, as the nearest drug store is not within walking distance. Did I say that downtown Albany is a ghost town? I guess I'll have to pick up more permanent replacements in Toronto, although I might have to wait until Tuesday, as there's no convenience stire in Union Station, and all the drugstores in downtown Toronto seem to close at 6 or 7 PM, if Google maps can be believed.

Well, off to dinner and then to bed to get up for my Maple Leaf ride and border crossing experience tomorrow.

 

[Willbridge]

Now in Albany, in my hotel room. The ride up the Hudon was OK, but the 75-year old Hickory Creek I rode the last time I took this route had a lot smoother ride than the less-than-50 year old Amfleet 1 business class cafe assigned to today's train. The Airos can't come soon enough. The rocking and rolling didn't agree with my pastrami sandwich lunch, but now that I'm off the train, I'm OK. I'm in a nice hotel, but downtown Albany is like a ghost town, which is kind of weird, considering that it's the capital of one of the largest states in the Union. The restaurant at the hotel is only serving at the bar, but I think I'm going to try a place across the street. Another little bump in the road: When I checked my bag, I found that I forgot to pack my toiletry kit, which I think was sitting on the bed this morning for me to pack. Fortunately, I packed my CPAP and prescription meds. The hotel was accommodating, and provided me with a comb, toothbrush, toothpaste, razor, and shaving cream. This is good, as the nearest drug store is not within walking distance. Did I say that downtown Albany is a ghost town? I guess I'll have to pick up more permanent replacements in Toronto, although I might have to wait until Tuesday, as there's no convenience stire in Union Station, and all the drugstores in downtown Toronto seem to close at 6 or 7 PM, if Google maps can be believed.

Well, off to dinner and then to bed to get up for my Maple Leaf ride and border crossing experience tomorrow.

Stand-alone state capitals that otherwise would just be regional service centers are often quiet outside of business hours. That's been especially true since travel improvements encourage legislators and staff and lobbyists to head home for the holidays and weekends. I know from the experience of being one of the junior staff who couldn't afford to get out of town.

 

[AmtrakMaineiac]

Sounds like a fun trip. One of those situations where one might miss the old Montrealer that you could board in Baltimore early evening and arrive in Montreal late morning after a refreshing night in a roomette and a substantial breakfast while viewing the Vermont countryside.

 

[PVD]

Now in Albany, in my hotel room. The ride up the Hudon was OK, but the 75-year old Hickory Creek I rode the last time I took this route had a lot smoother ride than the less-than-50 year old Amfleet 1 business class cafe assigned to today's train. The Airos can't come soon enough. The rocking and rolling didn't agree with my pastrami sandwich lunch, but now that I'm off the train, I'm OK. I'm in a nice hotel, but downtown Albany is like a ghost town, which is kind of weird, considering that it's the capital of one of the largest states in the Union. The restaurant at the hotel is only serving at the bar, but I think I'm going to try a place across the street. Another little bump in the road: When I checked my bag, I found that I forgot to pack my toiletry kit, which I think was sitting on the bed this morning for me to pack. Fortunately, I packed my CPAP and prescription meds. The hotel was accommodating, and provided me with a comb, toothbrush, toothpaste, razor, and shaving cream. This is good, as the nearest drug store is not within walking distance. Did I say that downtown Albany is a ghost town? I guess I'll have to pick up more permanent replacements in Toronto, although I might have to wait until Tuesday, as there's no convenience stire in Union Station, and all the drugstores in downtown Toronto seem to close at 6 or 7 PM, if Google maps can be believed.

Well, off to dinner and then to bed to get up for my Maple Leaf ride and border crossing experience tomorrow.

Lots of election action Tuesday, most State folks are around their "home territory"

 

[jiml]

I'll have to pick up more permanent replacements in Toronto, although I might have to wait until Tuesday, as there's no convenience stire in Union Station, and all the drugstores in downtown Toronto seem to close at 6 or 7 PM, if Google maps can be believed.

Not sure where you're staying in downtown Toronto, but the closest drug store open in the evening is at Queen St. and University Ave. (Osgoode subway stop on the University line - 2 stops from Union.) The ones near Union Station primarily serve office workers and other commuters, and face crowd issues during sporting events with all major venues nearby.

 

[MARC Rider]

At ALB waiting for 63. They made me get a printed eticket and the Amtrak border crosser luggage tags. The tags apparently have number stickers, one of which goes on the eticket, the other remaining on the tag. I guess this allows one to match luggage with passengers, although why CBSA would bother with that when I'm going to personally present myself to an agent with bags in hand, I don't know.

 

[MARC Rider]

Sounds like a fun trip. One of those situations where one might miss the old Montrealer that you could board in Baltimore early evening and arrive in Montreal late morning after a refreshing night in a roomette and a substantial breakfast while viewing the Vermont countryside.

In the Penn Central days and earlier, the New York - Toronto train was also an overnight run.

 

[jis]

In the Penn Central days and earlier, the New York - Toronto train was also an overnight run.

In 1940 apparently there were two night trains and one day train that one could avail of for travel from Toronto to New York. There was even a through Sleeper to Philadelphia on one of them.

 

[MARC Rider]

There was some nice looking private varnish sitting in the yard just north of the Albany station. Passed by too quickly to catalog them, but there was a dome car with Northern Pacific livery and an observation car with Mew York Central markings, among others. Business class on the Maple Leaf is 100% full today.

 

[MARC Rider]

Today's consist on the Maple Leaf: 3 Amfleet 2 coaches, one Amfleet 1 coach and a split cafe/biz class (2x1 seating) car. If I had known that they had Amfleet 2 coaches, I might have thought twice about paying extra for business class. The coaches are really full, except for the first one, I sthat where they stick the coach cleass border-crossers? We're running about 15-20 minutes behind schedule -- we were going great until we got to Hoffmans, which I think is where CSX takes over running the railroad. Held up for a few minutes there, and now, just west of Rome, we're creeping along, but apparently just switched tracks. Maybe we'll actually pass a freight train.

UPDATE

So the problem wasn't a freight train, there was a CSX crew out on the tracks apparently doing work on a signal. They smiled and waved to us as we went past. We're now back to 70+ mph running.

 

[jis]

Eager to read about the Niagara Falls ON border crossing experience with CBSA.

In all likelihood it will be trouble free, but of course carting all baggage off the train to go through C&I and then cart it all back is a hassle.

 

[lordsigma]

Eager to read about the Niagara Falls ON border crossing experience with CBSA.

In all likelihood it will be trouble free, but of course carting all baggage off the train to go through C&I and then cart it all back is a hassle.

Yes please let us know your experience. I will be doing this on the Maple Leaf myself in a few weeks. (Mine is a circle trip via the Maple Leaf, VIA Corridor, and the Adirondack.)

 

[MARC Rider]

We're approaching Buffalo-Depew, and they're closing the cafe car until after departure from Niagara Falls, ON.

 

[PVD]

We're approaching Buffalo-Depew, and they're closing the cafe car until after departure from Niagara Falls, ON.

On the Canadian side the cafe (and the rest of the train) is manned by VIA, and they actually switch product.

 

[Brian Battuello]

Great reports! Have been all these places, including downtown Albany. Glad it is going well so far!

If anyone else is thinking of staying in Albany, I can recommend a very interesting hotel.

 

[Brian Battuello]

The last time I did the Canadian, the train was so late arriving/departing that they put us up in the Royal York and gave us meal vouchers. No complaints here!

By the way, there is a really excellent Canadian Train guide book. They used to sell it at the Toronto station.

 

[PVD]

Great reports! Have been all these places, including downtown Albany. Glad it is going well so far!

If anyone else is thinking of staying in Albany, I can recommend a very interesting hotel.

My favorite in the area is the Desmond, but that is more suitable to meetings I drive to, it is far from the train. My trip up in May for the NYS Hockey meeting was at the Albany Rennaissance, which was pretty nice.

 

[MARC Rider]

Made it through Customs. Now rolling through Hamilton.

When we got to Niagara Falls, ON, the lights went off, and they made us stay in our seats. Then a VIA attendant came in, welcomed us to Canada, and had us collect our bags and get off the train. Fortunately, it had stopped raining; there was no platform canopy here, and detraining in the rain would have been nasty.

They took us inside and had us line up with our bags on one side of the hall and us on the other. One perk of business class was that we were at the front of the line. Then the security agent (he looked like a bearded hipster in tactical gear) let loose the drug dog, a friendly looking and well-trained chocolate lab, who sniffed at our bags and us. After finding nothing, they then let us at the customs agent. My interview lasted about 30 seconds. I told her I was on vacation by myself and was visiting Toronto and Vancouver. That was it. Then I was directed out another door back on the platform to walk around the station and enter the front door into the overcrowded waiting room. When the time came to board, they boarded the Amtrak business class folks first.

Back on the train, now a VIA train, they scanned our paper tickets. The cafe car was now had a VIA menu, with less selection, and no more free drinks for business class passengers. Sandwiches were C$10-15. I bought a hummus pack and a cup of coffee for C$8.50 to tide me over until I could get to Toronto.

Well that's it for my ride to the Canadian. I'm going to try the flaneur thing in Toronto tomorrow. and then on the Canadian on Wednesday.

 

[MARC Rider]

Just a couple of words about my day in Toronto. Of course, I didn't have enough time to see even the limited number of things I had planned, but I had a good. day. My smartphone pedometer says did I did over 20,000 steps and 9.5 miles! I checked out Roundhouse Park, which contains a number of static exibits of historical rail rolling stock, and got to tide the streetcars and the subway. I went to the old St. Lawrence Market and got a freshly baked Montreal style bagel with lox and cream cheese, a bargain at C$10. The Montreal bagel is a little skinnier and less bready than the New York variety. Then I went up to the Royal Ontario Musuem, mainly to see some slabs of rock from the Burgess Shale that contain the earliest known assemblage of complex fossil life. Some of the slabs looked very familiar to me, I think they're in all the introductory paleontology textbooks. They also had a good selection of dinosaur skeletons and fossil mammals, plus a really good American Indian display, which included a birchbark freighter canoe and one of Sitting Bull's war bonnets. (Sitting Bull apparently spent some time in Canada after the Battle of Little Big Horn, whcih explains the Canadian connections.) After that I walked through the campus of the University of Toronto and past the Ontario provincial assembly building. I ended the day with an early dinner at the Library Bar at the Royal York Hotel.

I found it a very interesting place in terms of urban planning. As we came through the far 'burbs while entering the city on the Maple Leaf, it seemed like there's the same ugly awful suburban sprawl that one sees all over North America. But the inner city itself looks like a textbook example of what all the New Urbanists are trying to get everyone to do. Al the glassy tower makes the place look like one of those future cities in Star Trek world, and you really have to look hard to find buildings from the 19th and early 20th centuries. That's in contrast with the older cities on the east coast of the US, Boston, New York, Philadelphia, etc. They've got glassy Star Trek World towers, too, but a lot of the fabric of the older city is still intact. Of course, New York has both Star Trek world skyscrapers and lots of 19th and early 20th century buildings, but then again, New York actually built a lot of their skyscrpaers in the early 20th century, heck, they started building skyscrapers in the late 19th Century.

Oh, and Monday night I took care of my toiletry needs with a stop at Shopper's Drug Mart, Canada's answer to Walgreens and Rite Aid. In addition, I was able to get my Presto Card (The Toronto transit fare card) upgraded to get the Senior fare. Of course, it doesn't really matter because the discounted senior single ride fare is 10 cents more expensive than the regular fare when using a Presto Card. Anyway, another transit farecard for my collection.

About the subways and streetcars: The streetcars are definitely a unique thing for us North Americans, quite and extensive system, but they're about as slow as buses in street traffic. They have TVMs and a place to tap your presto Card (or phone of credit card) at each door. The subways (or at least Line 1, which is what I rode) were amazing. They were the quietest subway trains I've ever experienced, either inside while riding or outside when they come into a station. Who built these? Could they send some to New York, Philadelphia, and Chicago, which all have some of the noisiest clattering trains around.