p&sr
OBS Chief
The Homeward Journey began Sunday May 17th in Portland, Maine. The idea was to cross the country to California as quickly as possible... three overnights on the Train, with no stop-overs. The first day included the Downeaster to Boston, the Regional to New York, and the Lake Shore Limited, transferring to the California Zephyr at Chicago on Day 2. Routing via New York adds the scenic interest of the Connecticut Shoreline and the Hudson River, and transfers two hours of waiting time from Boston (which I had just seen) to Manhattan (which I hoped to explore). An additional factor was that the "Train" from Boston direct to Albany was to be a Bus on that day.
Up at 5:00 AM, I took the Hotel Shuttle to the Amtrak Station because of the continuing heavy rain. Consist same as yesterday... cafe plus 4 coaches, and an engine on each end. Old Orchard Beach looked exceptionally quiet, early on this rainy off-season Sunday morning. I ordered my usual Breakfast in the Cafe Car, and the attendant asked, "Would your Mother let you have a hot dog for Breakfast?" I answered, "No, that's why I take the Train!" and the Conductor added, "He's got you there!" I was shocked, however, to find that the Downeaster does NOT serve Pepsi, but only the other brand (separate food contracting through the State of Maine). So for Breakfast I had a Hot Dog and a Ginger Ale... definitely a first!
It was a very relaxing cruise across rich green land, and good to be homeward bound. After crossing the Merrimack at Haverill, the Conductor's Radio reported "Express to Boston". When the City Skyline appeared, the tallest buildings were poking up into the low cloud cover. At North Station, I transferred to the MBTA, which required just 15 steps outdoors in light rain. Entering the Subway, I heard the tail end of some announcement, something about service disruptions due to signal failure, "use Back Bay Station instead" and apologizing for the inconvenience. This left unclear what line or station was having the problems. Fortunately, there was still time to connect to my Regional from South Station on foot if needed.
So I took the first Train through the Station, a Green Line (no point waiting for the faster but less-frequent Orange Line if the whole system has just been put into question). At Park Street I figured I would take the Pedestrian Connection to Downtown Crossing, so as to be close to South Station in case the Red Line was not operating. But while trying to find the Connection, I ended up on the Red Line platform at Park Street, and along came the Train, so I just got on board. A couple of minutes later I was at South Station in plenty of time for the next Regional to NYP. (The connection was "not guaranteed", but there was also a later Acela Train that would still get me to NYP on time.)
We pulled out on schedule, getting a farewell view of Boston. Once underway, I ordered a Full Lunch on-board: Hot Dog, Chips, and Chicken Cup-o-Noodle. One interesting observation is that the Cafe Crew do not consider the latter to be "soup". On more than one train, I asked what kinds of soup they serve, and they said None. I asked, not even Chicken Noodle? No, no soup of any kind anymore. Then I pointed to the Cup-o-Noodles stacked on the counter, and they admitted they did have that kind (as if anybody would want it?). Actually, it's just the thing to round out a meal from the Snack Car.
In Rhode Island I saw folks canoeing in a pond. West of New London there were some lovely, quiet beaches. Coming in to New Haven the engine briefly died, so we coasted silently in the dark for a few minutes until they regained power. At New Rochelle there were large crowds waiting to go to New York, but they all wanted the Metro North. Entering the Bronx, I saw three ancient shipwrecked wooden barges stuck in the mud at low tide. A "subway" train crossed over us on a bridge, and we then crossed over to Long Island. Views of the Manhattan Skyline included the Chrysler Bldg, the Empire State Bldg, and the United Nations.
Just after joining the LIRR at the beginning of the Sunnyside Yards, our engine died again. This time we coasted to a standstill and sat there for five minutes, after which they were able to re-start successfully. We arrived at NYP at 2:00, about 10 minutes behind schedule.
I walked up through the intermediate level above the tracks, which led into the subway station and the food court at the North-West Corner of Penn Station, then upstairs into the Station proper. I stepped out to the corner of 8th Ave and 33rd St where the Taxi Stand is. After about five minutes in line, I got into a Cab and said, "United Nations please", just like Cary Grant in "North by Northwest". The ride was slow, through heavy traffic (about half of it being Taxi Cabs) and with red lights at every block. We passed a large, dangerous-looking street protest (in both English and Spanish) declaring support for "Family Values". They were so angry, I think anybody who could not claim a cozy, nurturing Family of their own would probably have been torn limb-from-limb as an Enemy of the People.
So we arrived at the United Nations and I stepped out. Half of my allocated walking time was gone already! So I figured I would just have to walk a little faster than usual to make it up. I headed up to the Visitors Center at 1st Ave and 46th St. It was closed, of course, but the little Plaza was open, so I could stand there for a few moments on "International Territory" (Diplomatic Immunity and all that...). Then back to the U.S.A. as I passed the Embassies of Brunei and Bhutan, then turned West on 42nd St. I just tried to "blend in", weaving through the crowds while carrying all of my luggage and walking about twice the pace of the other fast walkers.
At the Chrysler Bldg I peered in to see the elegant gold-trimmed Art Deco lobby which extends clear through the building. A few blocks further on, I could look back and see its classic tower. Then I came to Grand Central Terminal. I stepped in, walked through the Main Concourse, and saw the big famous Clock in the center (just like in the Movies... again, "North by Northwest"). I could even see some trains and tracks and platforms through the north doors. I found another way back to 42nd St, and continued West.
There were great views of the Empire State Building just a few blocks to the South. I passed the New York Public Library and Bryant Park, then crossed Broadway and 7th Ave. This triangular junction is "Times Square", home of the famous New Year's Eve Party, and one claimant to being the Center of the World. It was now 3:00 and all my time was used up. I would have to return to Penn Station as quickly as possible. Looking around, seeing lots of slow traffic, no ready cabs, and no evident Subway entrances, I decided the quickest way back was on foot. So off I went, down 7th Ave.
There were lots of street-vendors, particularly for Pretzels and for Middle-Eastern Kebabs being grilled right there. They smelled delicious. I picked up a Sprite to drink while walking, and continued on my way. It was a busy, vibrant Sunday afternoon, cloudy but not raining, with diverse crowds. I figured I was not really "out of place", because they've clearly seen everything else, so I just sort of "complete the set"... scurrying along on a chilly day with all the luggage, wearing only short-sleeves (just like in California). I stopped along the way to pick up a booklet about guided tours of the City. They asked how long I was going to be in town. I said, About twenty minutes. And on my way again, with good views of the Empire State Building, now to the East.
I passed Madison Square Gardens and stopped at 32nd St. I planned to get back into the station through M.S.G., but the way was blocked by some kind of College Graduation Ceremony. So I re-traced half a block up 7th Ave and used the Stairway there down into the Station. Heading back to the Amtrak area, I saw my Train listed for Departure On-Time, "Track to be Announced". I took a seat in the Waiting Area, and caught my breath. 3:15 PM, 1/2 hour before Departure and 20 minutes before Boarding for the Lake Shore Limited. So now I can say I took a walk and saw Manhattan. Looks like Audacity wins again. PS -- For anybody else on a similarly tight schedule, I don't actually recommend this.
It was a pleasant afternoon cruising North along the scenic Hudson River, past the Palisades and the Tappan Zee Bridge, leaving all of the coastal cloudiness behind. Wow, just like in "North by Northwest"! Our consist was Engine (first one electric, then two diesels after Albany), Baggage Car, Viewliner Sleeper (for passengers being bussed from Boston), 2 coaches for through passengers to Chicago (the first for those from Boston, the second for those from New York), a "Dinette" (snack and lounge car), 3 coach cars, a "Cafe" (Dining Car), 2 sleepers, and an extra unused Baggage Car.
At 5:00 PM they announced "First Call for Dinner in the Diner", no reservations, just come on by. On the Western Trains the Poultry Fare was Herb-Roasted Chicken... acceptable... one time it was cold, and one time it was extra hot and delicious. On this Train, the Poultry Selection was Chicken in white wine sauce with white grapes, on Pilaf Rice with savory vegetables (broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, and something crispy and yellow). Coffee and Real New York Cheesecake for dessert! Outstanding! Unlike in former years, they had no Fruit Topping for the Cheesecake. But at least the Cheesecake was Real, as opposed to the Western Trains which only had some kind of "raspberry brulee" (pre-swirled). Remembering also the excellent Jambalaya on the Crescent, I'd have to say that the Eastern Trains come out ahead for Dining on this trip.
There are lots of interesting sights along the River, including a little island with a Victorian-Style Light House and Keeper's House... red brick, with black slate roof. There were even some Kayakers on the Water. There were beautiful views of the Catskills by evening light, and good views of Albany from the Station (above the Tracks). While changing engines, I stepped into the Station there and picked up some nice PostCards of New York City. There was golden light of late afternoon at Schenectady, and a sunset glowing red and orange reflected in the water as we followed the Erie Canal westward across Upstate New York. At 8:35 PM there was an Emergency Stop. We sat there for 12 minutes, then resumed our trip without explanation. After dark, I saw a lit-up Barge on the Canal, and an old New York Central Steam Locomotive at Utica.
Day 2 began with a Prairie Dawn over Ohio, and Sunrise at Toledo. I had my regular Hot Dog and Pepsi Breakfast, and saw an interesting Train Collection at Elkhart, Indiana (including a Steam Engine and some sleepers from the New York Central RR). There seemed to be a lot of freight traffic. Farms and forests continued until we approached Gary, Indiana and the outskirts of Chicago. There were several brief but clear views of Lake Michigan, and of the Chicago Skyline. We arrived at Union Station 9:15 AM. I saw the Great Hall, and exited at the North-East corner of the Station (by the McDonalds).
I crossed the Chicago River and passed the Sears Tower, finding Quincy St on the far side of the Tower and continuing another short block to Wells, where the L-Station is. I rode the Brown Line Train South, around the Loop, then North across the River, with great views of the Hancock Tower and the area of North Michigan Ave. We zig-zagged North-West, saw the Metra Line to Kenosha, and crossed the Chicago River again in a residential area with a rural appearance (lots of trees, and private boats and docks). After five grade-level crossings, we arrived at Kimball, the end of the line, at 10:15 AM.
I returned to the Loop (with magnificent views of the entire downtown area) and rode around to Madison and Wabash. From there it is one block to the Millennium Park, where I walked around and under the Bean and admired the many reflections of people, buildings, and sky... with distortions and inversions like a fun-house mirror. 11:15 AM. I walked around the Pritzer Pavillion and across the BP Bridge for a view of Lake Michigan and the City Skyline (including the "Urban Wall" of Michigan Ave), then back to the Pavillion and North to the Aon Tower.
There is a musical sculpture there with swaying metal rods to represent wheat on the prairie. To me, they looked rather like Bullrushes in a marsh. It was windy enough that the rods were touching each other as they swayed, creating a piquant sort of "wind-chime" music with a full, reedy tone. I enjoyed the Fountains and Sculptures around the courtyard there, and exited to the North-West, continuing North between the two sections of the Hyatt Regency Hotel, to the River. I took the lower level walkway on Wacker Drive west to Michigan Ave, then crossed the Bridge (on the upper level, because the lower level was closed for maintenance). I expected the friendly Water-Taxi Service there would give me a quick ride back to Union Station. To my dismay, I discovered they only ran during Commuter Hours, and would not start up until 4:00 PM. So, continuing with Plan B.
Heading South on Michigan Ave, I walked through the gold-trimmed Art Deco lobby of the Carbon & Carbide Building, then the lobby of the modern Smurfit-Stone Building. On Randolph St I turned West, past the Library (now a Visitors Center) and the outdoor sculpture there, to catch the Green Line west to Clinton. There were great views of Chicago's Loop and Landmarks, including new buildings since I was there last Summer. In particular, there is a new wing of the Art Institute, with direct footbridge connections to Millennium Park.
At 12:15 I was walking through the Ogilvie Station (picking up a Sprite to drink) and heading along the River towards Union Station. On arrival there, I found the Gold Coast Hot Dog place in the Food Court, and ordered a Jumbo Char Dog "Chicago Style" with everything. A delicious and memorable Hot Dog experience! I finished Lunch at 12:45, walked through the Great Hall once again, and checked in at 1:00 PM for the California Zephyr. The Train did not arrive until our 2:00 departure time. We boarded quickly, and were underway by 2:17 PM. Consist was 2 engines, baggage car, 3 sleepers, diner, lounge, and 3 coaches.
It was a pleasant sunny afternoon, with relaxing travel. Dinner in the Diner was the usual... Salad, a Roll with Butter, Herb-Roasted Chicken with Rice, Spiced Corn, Coffee and Vanilla Ice Cream. Actually very pleasant. While in the Diner, we crossed the Mississippi. There was high water, above some of the tree-trunks along the Banks. After Burlington, Iowa, we climbed up onto the Prairie. We passed lots of Coal Trains, and had a clear sunset. That night we crossed the Missouri River, passed through Omaha at 11:00 PM, and then crossed the Platte River.
Day 3 began with a golden sunrise over eastern Colorado. We quickly came within view of the snow-capped Rocky Mountains, including Pike's Peak far to the South. After we backed in to Denver's Union Station, there was time for a brief walk around the Downtown Area (past the light-rail station and crossing another rail line on a cable-stay pedestrian bridge with a good view of the city's skyline).
Pulling out from Denver, we passed Fox Junction, then Utah Junction, then headed North-West through Arvada towards the Mountains. I finally saw the famous windbreaker cars on the curve where the tracks just enter the mountains... loaded with rocks and welded in place, to protect the Trains from episodic high winds there. Into the Mountains, with views of the Prairies, then after a series of tunnels turning West to climb up Boulder Canyon. After the Moffitt Tunnel, there were high peaks all around us. I saw beaver dams and lodges in the Fraser River as we took the back way down to Granby. At that point we joined the Colorado River, which we would follow for the next 240 miles through a series of dramatic canyons.
There were dramatic views down Glenwood Canyon, bright sunshine pouring down between thunderstorms, with great crags overhead and tremendous turbulence (and high water) in the River. Stopping in Glenwood Springs and in Grand Junction (with time to walk at both Stations), we passed through Ruby Canyon into Utah by afternoon light. Climbing out of the Canyon at Cisco (6:05 PM), they said that Lightning in the area had knocked out all the signals. We proceeded very slowly and lost an hour. Out in the desert (near Thompson) I saw some Pronghorn Antelope. Shortly before Green River, the signals were working again (we had seen lots of people working on them all along the way), and we resumed our normal speed. Climbing out of the Desert, we came to the town of Price, Utah at sunset, 8:15 PM. Meals on board were as on previous days, plus a Sam Adams Beer for bedtime.
Climbing the Mountains above Helper, Utah, we could see the Train's headlights shining on the canyon walls. It was a long, slow climb to the Summit, then a steep descent that gave the impression of a "runaway Train", speeding and bouncing downhill in the dark. After what seemed like ages, we finally emerged at the bottom of the Canyon and continued on through a series of towns to Provo, Utah and Salt Lake City.
Day 4 began with the town of Elko by early dawn. There was a morning crescent Moon above the Planet Venus. It became light in time to enjoy the Canyons of the Humboldt River near Carlin. By sunrise, we could see snow-capped mountains around us in the Desert of central Nevada. This early in the year, the desert itself is still green. I was the first one served for Breakfast in the Cafe Car, at 6:00 AM for my regular Hot Dog and Pepsi. We stopped at Winnemucca to change engine crews, then headed across open country (with some beautiful wetlands near Hazen) and into the Canyon of the Truckee River east of Reno. We passed the tiny former depot at Sparks, and got views of Reno itself before descending into the Downtown Trench. At the Station there, they warned all the continuing passengers NOT to heed the "call of the Wild" by taking "just a minute" to "play the slots" in town, because they would miss the Train for sure. Evidently it happens all the time.
We climbed up the Truckee River Canyon into the Sierra Nevada Range, and the State of California. There were beaver dams, and yellow sage blossoms. They showed us the foundations of a famous Brewery in the ghost-town of Boca, and an Eagle's Nest above Donner Lake. There were clear blue skies with sparkling views of snowy Peaks and the Sierra Crest.
The Tunnel under the Summit is two miles long. Exiting the Tunnel the Train goes right under the Chair Lifts for a Ski Resort. We saw some small lakes, and fresh streams cascading down the mountains. The steepest section of track is said to be at Blue Canyon, with a 2.4% Grade. There were views of the American River at the bottom of that Canyon, deep green with large rapids. At Magra we passed the Eastbound Zephyr, and at Colfax we saw the first California Golden Poppies (our state flower). Just past Colfax there were great views back to the snowy peaks of the Sierra Crest, both to the East and to the South-East. Near Auburn we saw some old water-flumes left over from Gold Rush Days. The foothills were very lush and green. On the Valley Floor at Roseville there was one final view back to the High Country. We arrived in Sacramento at 2:24 PM, ahead of schedule.
Mission accomplished, from Maine to California non-stop by Train. Now to catch my breath and rest up for a better-timed return home the next day. So I bade farewell to the Zephyr and set out on foot to visit "Old Town". Passing the RailRoad Museum and its restored historic Depot, I took the Bike Path north along the Sacramento River, to the American River and crossed that River on the Bridge in the Park where they join. On this warm, sunny afternoon there were lots of folks out fishing (with boats small and large, also standing all along the banks), and kids and families playing on the beach and wading in the River.
I checked into my "Motel 6" on Jibboom St, and walked to the near-by Stonebrook Coffee Shop for dinner: 10-oz Rib Eye Steak, with salad and potato pancakes and cottage cheese, plus two fresh honey-wheat rolls with butter. A welcome change from Train-food.
Day 5 of this Section (Day 15 of the Trip) was for Homecoming. I set no alarm for the morning, since the schedule was flexible just this once. I was up at 5:20 anyway, and out for Breakfast at Six O'Clock: Ham & Eggs, Hash Browns, Coffee, English Muffin and Marmelade.. Very Civilized! I walked along the Sacramento River and past the RailRoad Museum to the Amtrak Station. I saw one train arrive from Martinez, but the Conductor said my Train would be the next one, about to pull in from Auburn. They arrived at 7:30 AM, with a California Engine and the cars Oak Grove, Sacramento River, San Fernando Vally, Pajaro River, and Mt. San Gorgonio. We departed at 7:40 AM for Martinez (and Oakland).
In West Sacramento there was a large Cactus in full bloom, like a night-blooming Cereus. There was a hint of morning fog above the coastal hills. At Benicia, we took the northern tracks (as usual for westbound trains), right next to the Freeway, with a long curved trestle which we could appreciate by watching our shadow. There was sunshine on the waters of Suisun Bay by the Ghost Fleet as we crossed the Bridge into Martinez. At the Station there I bought a Sprite to drink while walking, and a delicious fresh Blueberry Muffin for later in the morning.
I walked past the Beaver dam and lodge by a restaurant downtown. (The Beavers there have their own website, at http://www.martinezbeavers.org ) Then I walked down Alameda Creek to the Tracks, seeing a couple of turtles in the creek, took the road next to the Tracks west to the beginning of the Yards (where they have the first overhead signals), then North through the shoreline park to the waters of Carquinez Straits... a back-water of San Francisco Bay. Cutting through the marsh and across a very soft, soggy beach, I was able to touch the water for my Pacific Homecoming. I took the footbridge across the Creek and returned past the Steam Engine to the Old Depot. In the park along the way was perhaps the strangest sighting of the whole trip... a toy stuffed baby Bandicoot perched upside down inside the knothole of a Chilean pink-peppercorn tree! Curious indeed.
Blue skies, sunshine, and a lovely fresh breeze made Martinez a fine place to wait for my connection. At 9:30 another Train arrived from Sacramento, and around 10:20 there were several trains pretty much at the same time: one from Bakersfield (with the Point Reyes Car and the Mount Baldy Car), one to Sacramento (with the Mattole River Car), and one from Sacramento (with the Colorado River Car and the Moonstone Beach Car). This was the one with a Bus connection to the North Bay. So I boarded the Bus, and then saw the Eastbound Zephyr arrive and depart (same Trainset I had been on the previous day), also an eastbound Freight Train. Shortly after that the Bus pulled out through downtown (past a busy Farmer's Market) and on towards Home, with all the familiar landmarks of the area. On arrival, there was a refreshing breeze and bright sunshine. I enjoyed the Blueberry Muffin from Martinez, and set out on foot across town for home...
Well, I made it. A little tired and a little stiff, but none the worse for wear. My beautiful Moonlight Express was pleased to see me, and we celebrated my return with a nice dinner out. Now it's time to finalize all the plans for our NEXT Adventure... just next week... when the TWO of us travel TOGETHER, taking the Coast Starlight, the Cascades Train, and VIA-Rail from Vancouver B.C. to Jasper Park in the Canadian Rockies! Full report to follow, right after we get back.
Up at 5:00 AM, I took the Hotel Shuttle to the Amtrak Station because of the continuing heavy rain. Consist same as yesterday... cafe plus 4 coaches, and an engine on each end. Old Orchard Beach looked exceptionally quiet, early on this rainy off-season Sunday morning. I ordered my usual Breakfast in the Cafe Car, and the attendant asked, "Would your Mother let you have a hot dog for Breakfast?" I answered, "No, that's why I take the Train!" and the Conductor added, "He's got you there!" I was shocked, however, to find that the Downeaster does NOT serve Pepsi, but only the other brand (separate food contracting through the State of Maine). So for Breakfast I had a Hot Dog and a Ginger Ale... definitely a first!
It was a very relaxing cruise across rich green land, and good to be homeward bound. After crossing the Merrimack at Haverill, the Conductor's Radio reported "Express to Boston". When the City Skyline appeared, the tallest buildings were poking up into the low cloud cover. At North Station, I transferred to the MBTA, which required just 15 steps outdoors in light rain. Entering the Subway, I heard the tail end of some announcement, something about service disruptions due to signal failure, "use Back Bay Station instead" and apologizing for the inconvenience. This left unclear what line or station was having the problems. Fortunately, there was still time to connect to my Regional from South Station on foot if needed.
So I took the first Train through the Station, a Green Line (no point waiting for the faster but less-frequent Orange Line if the whole system has just been put into question). At Park Street I figured I would take the Pedestrian Connection to Downtown Crossing, so as to be close to South Station in case the Red Line was not operating. But while trying to find the Connection, I ended up on the Red Line platform at Park Street, and along came the Train, so I just got on board. A couple of minutes later I was at South Station in plenty of time for the next Regional to NYP. (The connection was "not guaranteed", but there was also a later Acela Train that would still get me to NYP on time.)
We pulled out on schedule, getting a farewell view of Boston. Once underway, I ordered a Full Lunch on-board: Hot Dog, Chips, and Chicken Cup-o-Noodle. One interesting observation is that the Cafe Crew do not consider the latter to be "soup". On more than one train, I asked what kinds of soup they serve, and they said None. I asked, not even Chicken Noodle? No, no soup of any kind anymore. Then I pointed to the Cup-o-Noodles stacked on the counter, and they admitted they did have that kind (as if anybody would want it?). Actually, it's just the thing to round out a meal from the Snack Car.
In Rhode Island I saw folks canoeing in a pond. West of New London there were some lovely, quiet beaches. Coming in to New Haven the engine briefly died, so we coasted silently in the dark for a few minutes until they regained power. At New Rochelle there were large crowds waiting to go to New York, but they all wanted the Metro North. Entering the Bronx, I saw three ancient shipwrecked wooden barges stuck in the mud at low tide. A "subway" train crossed over us on a bridge, and we then crossed over to Long Island. Views of the Manhattan Skyline included the Chrysler Bldg, the Empire State Bldg, and the United Nations.
Just after joining the LIRR at the beginning of the Sunnyside Yards, our engine died again. This time we coasted to a standstill and sat there for five minutes, after which they were able to re-start successfully. We arrived at NYP at 2:00, about 10 minutes behind schedule.
I walked up through the intermediate level above the tracks, which led into the subway station and the food court at the North-West Corner of Penn Station, then upstairs into the Station proper. I stepped out to the corner of 8th Ave and 33rd St where the Taxi Stand is. After about five minutes in line, I got into a Cab and said, "United Nations please", just like Cary Grant in "North by Northwest". The ride was slow, through heavy traffic (about half of it being Taxi Cabs) and with red lights at every block. We passed a large, dangerous-looking street protest (in both English and Spanish) declaring support for "Family Values". They were so angry, I think anybody who could not claim a cozy, nurturing Family of their own would probably have been torn limb-from-limb as an Enemy of the People.
So we arrived at the United Nations and I stepped out. Half of my allocated walking time was gone already! So I figured I would just have to walk a little faster than usual to make it up. I headed up to the Visitors Center at 1st Ave and 46th St. It was closed, of course, but the little Plaza was open, so I could stand there for a few moments on "International Territory" (Diplomatic Immunity and all that...). Then back to the U.S.A. as I passed the Embassies of Brunei and Bhutan, then turned West on 42nd St. I just tried to "blend in", weaving through the crowds while carrying all of my luggage and walking about twice the pace of the other fast walkers.
At the Chrysler Bldg I peered in to see the elegant gold-trimmed Art Deco lobby which extends clear through the building. A few blocks further on, I could look back and see its classic tower. Then I came to Grand Central Terminal. I stepped in, walked through the Main Concourse, and saw the big famous Clock in the center (just like in the Movies... again, "North by Northwest"). I could even see some trains and tracks and platforms through the north doors. I found another way back to 42nd St, and continued West.
There were great views of the Empire State Building just a few blocks to the South. I passed the New York Public Library and Bryant Park, then crossed Broadway and 7th Ave. This triangular junction is "Times Square", home of the famous New Year's Eve Party, and one claimant to being the Center of the World. It was now 3:00 and all my time was used up. I would have to return to Penn Station as quickly as possible. Looking around, seeing lots of slow traffic, no ready cabs, and no evident Subway entrances, I decided the quickest way back was on foot. So off I went, down 7th Ave.
There were lots of street-vendors, particularly for Pretzels and for Middle-Eastern Kebabs being grilled right there. They smelled delicious. I picked up a Sprite to drink while walking, and continued on my way. It was a busy, vibrant Sunday afternoon, cloudy but not raining, with diverse crowds. I figured I was not really "out of place", because they've clearly seen everything else, so I just sort of "complete the set"... scurrying along on a chilly day with all the luggage, wearing only short-sleeves (just like in California). I stopped along the way to pick up a booklet about guided tours of the City. They asked how long I was going to be in town. I said, About twenty minutes. And on my way again, with good views of the Empire State Building, now to the East.
I passed Madison Square Gardens and stopped at 32nd St. I planned to get back into the station through M.S.G., but the way was blocked by some kind of College Graduation Ceremony. So I re-traced half a block up 7th Ave and used the Stairway there down into the Station. Heading back to the Amtrak area, I saw my Train listed for Departure On-Time, "Track to be Announced". I took a seat in the Waiting Area, and caught my breath. 3:15 PM, 1/2 hour before Departure and 20 minutes before Boarding for the Lake Shore Limited. So now I can say I took a walk and saw Manhattan. Looks like Audacity wins again. PS -- For anybody else on a similarly tight schedule, I don't actually recommend this.
It was a pleasant afternoon cruising North along the scenic Hudson River, past the Palisades and the Tappan Zee Bridge, leaving all of the coastal cloudiness behind. Wow, just like in "North by Northwest"! Our consist was Engine (first one electric, then two diesels after Albany), Baggage Car, Viewliner Sleeper (for passengers being bussed from Boston), 2 coaches for through passengers to Chicago (the first for those from Boston, the second for those from New York), a "Dinette" (snack and lounge car), 3 coach cars, a "Cafe" (Dining Car), 2 sleepers, and an extra unused Baggage Car.
At 5:00 PM they announced "First Call for Dinner in the Diner", no reservations, just come on by. On the Western Trains the Poultry Fare was Herb-Roasted Chicken... acceptable... one time it was cold, and one time it was extra hot and delicious. On this Train, the Poultry Selection was Chicken in white wine sauce with white grapes, on Pilaf Rice with savory vegetables (broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, and something crispy and yellow). Coffee and Real New York Cheesecake for dessert! Outstanding! Unlike in former years, they had no Fruit Topping for the Cheesecake. But at least the Cheesecake was Real, as opposed to the Western Trains which only had some kind of "raspberry brulee" (pre-swirled). Remembering also the excellent Jambalaya on the Crescent, I'd have to say that the Eastern Trains come out ahead for Dining on this trip.
There are lots of interesting sights along the River, including a little island with a Victorian-Style Light House and Keeper's House... red brick, with black slate roof. There were even some Kayakers on the Water. There were beautiful views of the Catskills by evening light, and good views of Albany from the Station (above the Tracks). While changing engines, I stepped into the Station there and picked up some nice PostCards of New York City. There was golden light of late afternoon at Schenectady, and a sunset glowing red and orange reflected in the water as we followed the Erie Canal westward across Upstate New York. At 8:35 PM there was an Emergency Stop. We sat there for 12 minutes, then resumed our trip without explanation. After dark, I saw a lit-up Barge on the Canal, and an old New York Central Steam Locomotive at Utica.
Day 2 began with a Prairie Dawn over Ohio, and Sunrise at Toledo. I had my regular Hot Dog and Pepsi Breakfast, and saw an interesting Train Collection at Elkhart, Indiana (including a Steam Engine and some sleepers from the New York Central RR). There seemed to be a lot of freight traffic. Farms and forests continued until we approached Gary, Indiana and the outskirts of Chicago. There were several brief but clear views of Lake Michigan, and of the Chicago Skyline. We arrived at Union Station 9:15 AM. I saw the Great Hall, and exited at the North-East corner of the Station (by the McDonalds).
I crossed the Chicago River and passed the Sears Tower, finding Quincy St on the far side of the Tower and continuing another short block to Wells, where the L-Station is. I rode the Brown Line Train South, around the Loop, then North across the River, with great views of the Hancock Tower and the area of North Michigan Ave. We zig-zagged North-West, saw the Metra Line to Kenosha, and crossed the Chicago River again in a residential area with a rural appearance (lots of trees, and private boats and docks). After five grade-level crossings, we arrived at Kimball, the end of the line, at 10:15 AM.
I returned to the Loop (with magnificent views of the entire downtown area) and rode around to Madison and Wabash. From there it is one block to the Millennium Park, where I walked around and under the Bean and admired the many reflections of people, buildings, and sky... with distortions and inversions like a fun-house mirror. 11:15 AM. I walked around the Pritzer Pavillion and across the BP Bridge for a view of Lake Michigan and the City Skyline (including the "Urban Wall" of Michigan Ave), then back to the Pavillion and North to the Aon Tower.
There is a musical sculpture there with swaying metal rods to represent wheat on the prairie. To me, they looked rather like Bullrushes in a marsh. It was windy enough that the rods were touching each other as they swayed, creating a piquant sort of "wind-chime" music with a full, reedy tone. I enjoyed the Fountains and Sculptures around the courtyard there, and exited to the North-West, continuing North between the two sections of the Hyatt Regency Hotel, to the River. I took the lower level walkway on Wacker Drive west to Michigan Ave, then crossed the Bridge (on the upper level, because the lower level was closed for maintenance). I expected the friendly Water-Taxi Service there would give me a quick ride back to Union Station. To my dismay, I discovered they only ran during Commuter Hours, and would not start up until 4:00 PM. So, continuing with Plan B.
Heading South on Michigan Ave, I walked through the gold-trimmed Art Deco lobby of the Carbon & Carbide Building, then the lobby of the modern Smurfit-Stone Building. On Randolph St I turned West, past the Library (now a Visitors Center) and the outdoor sculpture there, to catch the Green Line west to Clinton. There were great views of Chicago's Loop and Landmarks, including new buildings since I was there last Summer. In particular, there is a new wing of the Art Institute, with direct footbridge connections to Millennium Park.
At 12:15 I was walking through the Ogilvie Station (picking up a Sprite to drink) and heading along the River towards Union Station. On arrival there, I found the Gold Coast Hot Dog place in the Food Court, and ordered a Jumbo Char Dog "Chicago Style" with everything. A delicious and memorable Hot Dog experience! I finished Lunch at 12:45, walked through the Great Hall once again, and checked in at 1:00 PM for the California Zephyr. The Train did not arrive until our 2:00 departure time. We boarded quickly, and were underway by 2:17 PM. Consist was 2 engines, baggage car, 3 sleepers, diner, lounge, and 3 coaches.
It was a pleasant sunny afternoon, with relaxing travel. Dinner in the Diner was the usual... Salad, a Roll with Butter, Herb-Roasted Chicken with Rice, Spiced Corn, Coffee and Vanilla Ice Cream. Actually very pleasant. While in the Diner, we crossed the Mississippi. There was high water, above some of the tree-trunks along the Banks. After Burlington, Iowa, we climbed up onto the Prairie. We passed lots of Coal Trains, and had a clear sunset. That night we crossed the Missouri River, passed through Omaha at 11:00 PM, and then crossed the Platte River.
Day 3 began with a golden sunrise over eastern Colorado. We quickly came within view of the snow-capped Rocky Mountains, including Pike's Peak far to the South. After we backed in to Denver's Union Station, there was time for a brief walk around the Downtown Area (past the light-rail station and crossing another rail line on a cable-stay pedestrian bridge with a good view of the city's skyline).
Pulling out from Denver, we passed Fox Junction, then Utah Junction, then headed North-West through Arvada towards the Mountains. I finally saw the famous windbreaker cars on the curve where the tracks just enter the mountains... loaded with rocks and welded in place, to protect the Trains from episodic high winds there. Into the Mountains, with views of the Prairies, then after a series of tunnels turning West to climb up Boulder Canyon. After the Moffitt Tunnel, there were high peaks all around us. I saw beaver dams and lodges in the Fraser River as we took the back way down to Granby. At that point we joined the Colorado River, which we would follow for the next 240 miles through a series of dramatic canyons.
There were dramatic views down Glenwood Canyon, bright sunshine pouring down between thunderstorms, with great crags overhead and tremendous turbulence (and high water) in the River. Stopping in Glenwood Springs and in Grand Junction (with time to walk at both Stations), we passed through Ruby Canyon into Utah by afternoon light. Climbing out of the Canyon at Cisco (6:05 PM), they said that Lightning in the area had knocked out all the signals. We proceeded very slowly and lost an hour. Out in the desert (near Thompson) I saw some Pronghorn Antelope. Shortly before Green River, the signals were working again (we had seen lots of people working on them all along the way), and we resumed our normal speed. Climbing out of the Desert, we came to the town of Price, Utah at sunset, 8:15 PM. Meals on board were as on previous days, plus a Sam Adams Beer for bedtime.
Climbing the Mountains above Helper, Utah, we could see the Train's headlights shining on the canyon walls. It was a long, slow climb to the Summit, then a steep descent that gave the impression of a "runaway Train", speeding and bouncing downhill in the dark. After what seemed like ages, we finally emerged at the bottom of the Canyon and continued on through a series of towns to Provo, Utah and Salt Lake City.
Day 4 began with the town of Elko by early dawn. There was a morning crescent Moon above the Planet Venus. It became light in time to enjoy the Canyons of the Humboldt River near Carlin. By sunrise, we could see snow-capped mountains around us in the Desert of central Nevada. This early in the year, the desert itself is still green. I was the first one served for Breakfast in the Cafe Car, at 6:00 AM for my regular Hot Dog and Pepsi. We stopped at Winnemucca to change engine crews, then headed across open country (with some beautiful wetlands near Hazen) and into the Canyon of the Truckee River east of Reno. We passed the tiny former depot at Sparks, and got views of Reno itself before descending into the Downtown Trench. At the Station there, they warned all the continuing passengers NOT to heed the "call of the Wild" by taking "just a minute" to "play the slots" in town, because they would miss the Train for sure. Evidently it happens all the time.
We climbed up the Truckee River Canyon into the Sierra Nevada Range, and the State of California. There were beaver dams, and yellow sage blossoms. They showed us the foundations of a famous Brewery in the ghost-town of Boca, and an Eagle's Nest above Donner Lake. There were clear blue skies with sparkling views of snowy Peaks and the Sierra Crest.
The Tunnel under the Summit is two miles long. Exiting the Tunnel the Train goes right under the Chair Lifts for a Ski Resort. We saw some small lakes, and fresh streams cascading down the mountains. The steepest section of track is said to be at Blue Canyon, with a 2.4% Grade. There were views of the American River at the bottom of that Canyon, deep green with large rapids. At Magra we passed the Eastbound Zephyr, and at Colfax we saw the first California Golden Poppies (our state flower). Just past Colfax there were great views back to the snowy peaks of the Sierra Crest, both to the East and to the South-East. Near Auburn we saw some old water-flumes left over from Gold Rush Days. The foothills were very lush and green. On the Valley Floor at Roseville there was one final view back to the High Country. We arrived in Sacramento at 2:24 PM, ahead of schedule.
Mission accomplished, from Maine to California non-stop by Train. Now to catch my breath and rest up for a better-timed return home the next day. So I bade farewell to the Zephyr and set out on foot to visit "Old Town". Passing the RailRoad Museum and its restored historic Depot, I took the Bike Path north along the Sacramento River, to the American River and crossed that River on the Bridge in the Park where they join. On this warm, sunny afternoon there were lots of folks out fishing (with boats small and large, also standing all along the banks), and kids and families playing on the beach and wading in the River.
I checked into my "Motel 6" on Jibboom St, and walked to the near-by Stonebrook Coffee Shop for dinner: 10-oz Rib Eye Steak, with salad and potato pancakes and cottage cheese, plus two fresh honey-wheat rolls with butter. A welcome change from Train-food.
Day 5 of this Section (Day 15 of the Trip) was for Homecoming. I set no alarm for the morning, since the schedule was flexible just this once. I was up at 5:20 anyway, and out for Breakfast at Six O'Clock: Ham & Eggs, Hash Browns, Coffee, English Muffin and Marmelade.. Very Civilized! I walked along the Sacramento River and past the RailRoad Museum to the Amtrak Station. I saw one train arrive from Martinez, but the Conductor said my Train would be the next one, about to pull in from Auburn. They arrived at 7:30 AM, with a California Engine and the cars Oak Grove, Sacramento River, San Fernando Vally, Pajaro River, and Mt. San Gorgonio. We departed at 7:40 AM for Martinez (and Oakland).
In West Sacramento there was a large Cactus in full bloom, like a night-blooming Cereus. There was a hint of morning fog above the coastal hills. At Benicia, we took the northern tracks (as usual for westbound trains), right next to the Freeway, with a long curved trestle which we could appreciate by watching our shadow. There was sunshine on the waters of Suisun Bay by the Ghost Fleet as we crossed the Bridge into Martinez. At the Station there I bought a Sprite to drink while walking, and a delicious fresh Blueberry Muffin for later in the morning.
I walked past the Beaver dam and lodge by a restaurant downtown. (The Beavers there have their own website, at http://www.martinezbeavers.org ) Then I walked down Alameda Creek to the Tracks, seeing a couple of turtles in the creek, took the road next to the Tracks west to the beginning of the Yards (where they have the first overhead signals), then North through the shoreline park to the waters of Carquinez Straits... a back-water of San Francisco Bay. Cutting through the marsh and across a very soft, soggy beach, I was able to touch the water for my Pacific Homecoming. I took the footbridge across the Creek and returned past the Steam Engine to the Old Depot. In the park along the way was perhaps the strangest sighting of the whole trip... a toy stuffed baby Bandicoot perched upside down inside the knothole of a Chilean pink-peppercorn tree! Curious indeed.
Blue skies, sunshine, and a lovely fresh breeze made Martinez a fine place to wait for my connection. At 9:30 another Train arrived from Sacramento, and around 10:20 there were several trains pretty much at the same time: one from Bakersfield (with the Point Reyes Car and the Mount Baldy Car), one to Sacramento (with the Mattole River Car), and one from Sacramento (with the Colorado River Car and the Moonstone Beach Car). This was the one with a Bus connection to the North Bay. So I boarded the Bus, and then saw the Eastbound Zephyr arrive and depart (same Trainset I had been on the previous day), also an eastbound Freight Train. Shortly after that the Bus pulled out through downtown (past a busy Farmer's Market) and on towards Home, with all the familiar landmarks of the area. On arrival, there was a refreshing breeze and bright sunshine. I enjoyed the Blueberry Muffin from Martinez, and set out on foot across town for home...
Well, I made it. A little tired and a little stiff, but none the worse for wear. My beautiful Moonlight Express was pleased to see me, and we celebrated my return with a nice dinner out. Now it's time to finalize all the plans for our NEXT Adventure... just next week... when the TWO of us travel TOGETHER, taking the Coast Starlight, the Cascades Train, and VIA-Rail from Vancouver B.C. to Jasper Park in the Canadian Rockies! Full report to follow, right after we get back.
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