The Canadian March 2005

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panamaclipper

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I spent two nights in Toronto before taking The Canadian. It was the second week of March and I was expecting the temps to be okay. Wrong.

It was in the mid 20s during the day and I don't want to think about how cold it was at night.

I was staying at a hotel about six blocks from the train station - an easy walk.

The day before my departure I went to the station and looked around to find out the check in procedure.

I would be leaving at morning rush hour so I wanted to find out where the passenger lounge was, etc.

After dinner and a good night's sleep I arrived at the station about at about 8 a.m.

The VIA Rail folks checked my ticket and told me to wait in the first class lounge until 8:30 boarding.

The lounge in Toronto reminded me of the Metropolitan Lounge in Chicago. It was a little smaller but had the same type of furniture, refreshments, etc. I had some coffee and juice and waited for the boarding call.

When the announcement was made I headed up the ramp to track 19 and The Canadian.

I was in a sleeper called Draper Manor, which was just ahead of the Tweedsmuir Park car.

I put my stuff in bedroom B and the attendant, Bob, introduced himself. Bob would be with me until Winnipeg when the crews changed.

Before departure I had a chance to take some more pictures out on the platform. The Toronto station at 8:30 was very busy with VIA trains, GO commuter trains and even an Amtrak train on the platform across from The Canadian.

My train left at 9 a.m. on the dot and I went to the tail end of the park car to watch Toronto slide by the curved windows.

Soon the Home Depots and apartment blocks were replaced by first fields and then snowy woods.

I chatted with the folks in the park car for about an hour then set out to explore my sleeping car. The four roomettes were at the end next to the park car, with the bedrooms in the middle. At the opposite end were three sections and a shower and changing room that occupy space originally taken by another section.

Except for the shower, the car was pretty much like it was when it was built in 1954. The interior was all done in cool blues and grays and none of the fixtures had been changed. It was really a rolling time machine.

Today's train had the park car, three sleepers, the diner, a dome lounge car, two coaches and a dorm baggage car. Two F40PHs were heading up the train.

I walked the whole train which was in great condition. The coaches were about half full, but few of those passengers where going the whole 3000 miles.

One lady in my sleeper who was going to Vancouver - she was moving - had her cat in a cage in the baggage car. She would walk forward through the train into the baggage car several times a day to visit the cat. She said there was also another cat and a dog riding up there.

I took the first lunch seating and the food was just great. I had some seafood chowder and a turkey wrap. For desert there was sherbet.

Our first significant stop on day one was in Capreol, Ontario. It's a big CN division point and there were large yards and lots of rail crews.

The train stopped at the small station for about 20 minutes and I had a chance to walk along the platform. Not much to see in the way of a town.

At dinner the first night I had prime rib. Another night I had haddock. Every dish was well prepared and presented. The dining car chief said the head cook was a former hotel chef. I could believe it.

While I wasn't there for the real thing, it was easy to believe the food and service were on par with what you would have received in the 50s.

After some time visiting in the park car and sitting in the upstairs dome watching the moon and stars overhead, I decided to head to my bedroom.

The bed had been pulled down from the wall and was made with a comforter and two pillows. There were even a couple of chocolate mints on the pillow. I was surprised how large the bed was.

The bed faced the window so that I sat and watched some small towns go by.

The CN tracks we were riding on were in much better shape that I am used to in the U.S. There was none of the serious pitching and shaking that wakes me up some nights.

Instead I slept soundly until about 6 a.m.

I got dressed and was at breakfast by 6:30. French toast that morning. Eggs benedict the next day. The breakfasts were quite large and they were always offering extra sides, fruit and such.

The first morning I sat with a retired engineer and his wife from Toronto. He told me quite about the line we were on and how the trains operate in Canada. Was great luck meeting him.

Our next stop was at Sioux Lookout, Ontario. They had a nice old wood paneled station that was unfortunately closed. But I had time to dash across the street to a drugstore to buy some batteries and a newspaper. I also took photos of them refueling the locomotives.

We had about 30 minutes in Sioux Lookout. There were a couple of bars, a hotel and a few shops along the main drag and that was about it.

This area of Ontario has hundreds of lakes. But in March they were all frozen over and the only recreation was snowmobiling - there was a lot of that.

In Winnipeg we had about 45 minutes stop. The old station downtown was built in 1911 and was designed by the same architect that did Grand Central Station in New York.

It has a huge dome in front and is across the street from the historic Fort Garry Hotel - an old railroad hotel that has been restored.

I walked up the street to a convenience store for some snacks. And out the back door of the station there was a marketplace of some kind.

They also had some old restored heavyweight passenger cars on display out there.

We headed out from Winnipeg with a new train crew and three more sleepers. They were deadheading at the front of the train. All three were the duplex style Chateau sleepers. The crew unhooked the engines and hooked up to the cars on a separate platform in the Winnepeg station. They hooked the HEP back up and we were ready to roll.

The new crew had a great park car attendant named Diane who knew everything about the history of the route plus the operation of the train.

She had a great personality and entertained us all with stories of winter snow-ins, train wrecks and such.

I had already noticed that many of the switches along the line had propane heaters on them to keep them thawed. Every switch we had also had a broom with a pick on one end and a shovel hanging there so crews could clean out a snow or ice covered switch.

The second night I watched a movie on my lap top before falling asleep. Everything went great until about 5:30 in the a.m. when I flushed the toilet in my bedroom. The valve jammed open and the darn thing wouldn't stop flushing. I fiddled with it a while before running to my sleeper attendant Tony for help. I knew if we didn't stop the flushing that all the water in the car would be lost.

Tony sent me to the park car for coffee while he removed an access panel under my sink so he could turn off the water.

As it was the car ended up very low on water. When we stopped at Edmonton we took on extra water to fill the tanks back up.

Edmonton was dismal. Not only was in snowing heavily and cold, but some sharpy had decided to move the train station from downtown to a new building at the airport. Great. It was sitting in the middle of a huge parking lot with nothing else around but runways and snow. At least the station was manned and had a gift shop and such. I went inside for some postcards and newspaper before deciding to return to the train.

By the time we got to Jasper it had quit snowing and the sun was out. It also seemed much warmer.

Jasper is in a national park and is a beautiful mountain resort town. Across the street from the large restored station there are about two blocks of shops, cafes and such. I mailed my postcards purchased in Edmonton and went for a looksee in some of the shops. Not much besides usual T shirts and such.

But in the train station they had a small railroad shop with books, models, magazines, etc. It was a great little shop with lots of Canadian rail stuff.

Before we left Jasper the train picked up two more deadheading cars. This time it was another park car and a sleeper. The two new cars were added in front of the three sleepers we took on in Winnipeg. It looked odd to see that rounded in observation car at the head of the train.

Leaving Jasper we had some of the best scenery through the mountains.

The dome section of the park car was full for the trip by Mount Robson, Moose Lake and Yellowhead pass. Really beautiful area. And they even slowed the train my some extra nice bits like a waterfall and lake.

Before long it was time for my last dinner on the train - a steak with company from a couple of tourists from Australia. On the trip I had also visited with passengers from Ireland, Germany, Britain and Jamaica. The train was about half older folks and the rest young people on spring break. There were a couple of families with small children. One of the families had folded back the wall between two of the bedrooms to create a very large compartment during the day.

After dinner I spent about an hour sitting in the dome watching the train in the dark. It was great seeing for the signal changes and the oncoming freights.

The trip was just about over and I was sad to be nearing the end.

Day four was busy. The train was getting into Vancouver almost an hour early. About a quarter to six they cut off all the water to the sleepers. It was part of the deal with the city of Vancouver who didn't what folks flushing their toilets on the tracks which ran near homes and roadways.

After crossing a grand old bridge over the Fraser River, we snaked through the suburbs and then backed the final leg into the station.

For this maneuver one of the engine crew came back to the tail car with a radio.

He opened the back door in the park car and sat there in the open door directing the progress of the train. I got some great photo shots around him as we pulled into the old Pacific Central station.

Along with a car barn full of rolling stock they were working on, there were also a large number of 50's Budd passenger cars along the station platforms. They also had an excursion train made up of dome topped cars that I believe were made by the manufacturer Colorado.

I took a few photos on the platform and then out front at the station. I would spend the night in downtown Vancouver before heading home to the states.

While it was the depths of winter in Toronto, in Vancouver it was spring with tulips and cherry trees blooming.

What a difference. I had just been to Vancouver in November so I knew my way around.

After talking to the train crews and all the passengers with experience, I decided my next Canada rail trip will be from Montreal to Halifax. I would like to see the Atlantic section of the country and find out what those imported European cars are like.

To sum up the trip, the train itself - which is 50 years old in April - is wonderful. Most of the scenery is good, especially day three through the mountains. But what really made the trip special was the train crews. The quality and amount of service they gave stands out above my trips in the U.S.
 
Great report - as I have mentioned elsewhere in the forum, I'll be on this one 5/3. I'll try to get a report put together, too, after we get back.

Where can we see the photos?
 
Alas, I don't have a website set up for pictures. I took more that 100 on my trip and downloaded them into my laptop enroute. The plugs in the sleeping car - there were two in my bedroom - were about chest high next to the mirror and were easy to use to recharge both my laptop and phone. I had brought an extension cord thinking I might need but the outlets worked fine without.
 
Aloha

You might want to consider this photo site. Here is my home page you can see my train pictures here. If you want their sales pitch then here is their home page.

Eric
 
Either of you fellows remember if they serve decaf coffee on the train? I can't have cafine. Sometimes I bring my own instant if I know they won't have low-test available.
 
I had no trouble getting decaf in the diner. But the coffee that was always available in the park car was regular. They do have hot water there as well. I didn't ask if they had instant decaf.
 
If you need anything in route, the first stop with easy access to a store is in Sioux Lookout. There's a little drug or variety store across the main street from the station. In Winnipeg there is a convenience store in the gas station across the street from the station. And out the back doors of the station to the right is a little marketplace mall with food, etc. In Jasper - the longest stop - there are a handful of shops right across the street from the train station. As I mentioned, Edmonton is a big let down - you can just see the towers of downtown way off in the distance.
 
Thanks for the tips. I don't want my wife to know she can get off and shop. B)

We get off at Jasper, travel to Banff and a couple of days later take the Rocky Mountaineer on into Vancouver.

Tom
 
panama clipper---after reading your post more carefully and enjoying it very much. I have a couple of observations.

First, you pointed out the bed was made with a comforter---I had forgotten what to call that---but I sure did enjoy it. I was facing surgery not long after my return from that trip and that certainly made it a lot more comfortable, the big bed, etc. Though it was, as you say, a smaller room than on Amtrak.

I was interested in the person in the Park car who entertained you with things like stories about snow ins---so I have a question---did you get the idea that the train is bothered with bad weather a lot?

Glad you got to visit the stations. I did not do much of that as my train was so long, and I was near the rear. I did plenty of walking within the train but not much outside. Though I did enjoy Jasper in the same way you did.

Anyway, glad you enjoyed your trip, and, again, there is a question within my rambling here. What did she say about the frequency of bad weather badly upsetting the schedule?
 
She talked alot about the problems keeping the tracks clear and switches unfrozen, etc. She told about a couple of snow ins in the last decade that sounded more like they had to do with equipment failures in the train during bitter cold weather - loss of HEP, frozen pipes, etc. She also talked like the VIA train crews have a lot of latitude when it comes to chartering buses, renting motels, arranging food, etc. when one of their trains gets bogged down. Of course, no one talks at great length about the 99.9 percent of the trips when everything is okay. And she did tell us the stories in response to questions from the passengers in the dome car who were watching it snow like the dickens and said "What if, etc." Again, I was so taken with how friendly both crews were on my trip. They were all telling stories and coming around to check on you and offering to do stuff. The dining car steward was walking by my bedroom one afternood and saw me sitting with my laptop. He said, "you could work easier with a table. I'll have your attendent set one up." He then checked back later to make sure it was done and ask me how I had liked the lunch menu. That's great customer service. And I made sure I tipped everybody well. I was surprised how many of my fellow diners - not hobos but people with money - left nothing on the table after their meals. It was embarassing and made me leave a little extra in that case. I guess I'm a softy when it comes to that kind of thing but I want these people to keep working hard.
 
panamaclipper said:
The dining car steward was walking by my bedroom one afternood and saw me sitting with my laptop. He said, "you could work easier with a table. I'll have your attendent set one up." He then checked back later to make sure it was done and ask me how I had liked the lunch menu. That's great customer service.
That's incredible customer service. Just offering to tell the sleeping car attendant to bring you a table was above and beyond the call of duty. Coming back to make sure it was actually done, is awesome customer service.

panamaclipper said:
And I made sure I tipped everybody well. I was surprised how many of my fellow diners - not hobos but people with money - left nothing on the table after their meals. It was embarassing and made me leave a little extra in that case. I guess I'm a softy when it comes to that kind of thing but I want these people to keep working hard.
That is sad to hear, but all too often typical. Too many people don't acknowledge good service with a tip.
 
Well - I'm off to Toronto tomorrow AM and will board The Canadian on Tue AM. I will try to get a trip report and photos soon after we de-board.

Can hardly wait!
 
Have a great trip!

For your info, The Canadian is starting to get quite long again for the spring/summer season. Here's the consist departing Toronto this morning (April 30)

F40 6412

F40 6440

Baggage 8606

Coach 8126

Coach 8137

Coach 8129

Skyline 8516

Elgin Manor

Monck M.

Burton M.

Skyline 8512

Diner Fairholme

Bliss Manor

Lorne M.

Amherst M.

Osler M.

Cornwall M.

Thompson M.

Skyline 8507

Diner Palliser

Dunsmuir Manor

Jarvis M.

Sherwood M.

Assiniboine Park
 
The Canadian is starting to get quite long again for the spring/summer season.
That is pretty long. I don't know where we will be on the train other than in a bedroom. Hope its not far to the park car. Is that a total of 4 domes counting the park car?
 
MrFSS said:
That is pretty long.  I don't know where we will be on the train other than in a bedroom.  Hope its not far to the park car.  Is that a total of 4 domes counting the park car?
Yes that's four domes!

I might be able to tell your cars location if you know it's "line" number (115, 120 etc). It should be on your ticket.
 
MrFSS, if you are still where you can read this, here's to a great trip!!
Bill, I'm in a hotel about 6 blocks from the VIA station right now. We board tomorrow AM. Really excited.

Tom
 
This is where we will start the trip from.

Our tour took us past it this AM.

via.jpg
 
Hey all,

I wish you folks would stop all this Canadian stuff, I'm now desperate to go back up there and ride her again! Great pics, great dialogue, makes me wish I was there!!!!!

While some might think it odd to find Via Rail stuff on an Amtrak forum, I think it's educational to compare the two. We in America, as was pointed out in an earlier thread, could learn some things from our northern neighbors. Service for one thing.

Speaking of service, it's well known on this forum, and to anyone who frequents Amtrak, that some of the tenured employees seem not to care much about providing quality service. Having said that, I'll relate something that happened to me on the Empire Builder last year. By coincidence, I awoke in the sleeper car one morning and dressed in dark slacks and a blue dress shirt. I didn't think anything of it. It wasn't until later that day, when I had been asked at least 30 times if I could do something about this or that, or fix something, that I realized that my outfit was almost exactly like an Amtrak uniform. After hearing so many people whine about no cream for the coffee, or why are we 30 minutes late and so on, I quickly developed a whole new outlook on what it must be like to be faced with this stuff every day for years.

I'm not sure I have what it takes to be as jovial as some of these folks are. Hat's off to those who serve well and do so for years.

Frank

ps. I've worn colorful clothing on every train outing since.
 
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