When the Northern California RailFest was first announced, I wanted to find some way to join the group for at least part of the trip. The Zephyr detour through Wyoming was my opening. Good airfares was the second piece of the puzzle. Room availability on Amtrak and at desired hotels in Denver and Reno was the next piece. Finally, less than three weeks prior to the Fest, I pulled the trigger and booked the trip. Fly to Denver, Zephyr to Reno, fly home. Four days, four flights, two hotels, and one train. My family thought I had lost my mind.
On Saturday, July 14 I flew from Philadelphia to Denver via Pittsburgh (nice flights, on-time) and spent the night at the Oxford Hotel located one block from Union Station. The next morning I was up at 5:30, went out for a quick run, and then hit the nearby Starbucks for breakfast. At 7:45 I checked out and walked to Union Station. The train had already arrived and the station was busy with the arriving passengers passing through and the departing passengers queuing up for check-in. In one of those "it can only happen to me" situations, there was a double booking with my assigned room. Two of us had the same car, same room. But it was quickly resolved and I settled into my Roomette for the trip west. The train left Denver at 8:20: 15 minutes late.
The scenery along the detour route lacks the spectacular mountains of the Moffat route, but large portions of the Moffat route are not spectacular either. The highest point of the route, Sherman (elevation 8013'), is the summit of a grade in an otherwise pretty plain area. You travel through prairie, past small towns, along historic US 30, and into increasingly desolate areas as you proceed west. Sometimes you are next to busy I-80, and other times you are off in the middle of nowhere. The scenic highlights are Echo and Weber canyons in eastern Utah that are reminiscent of Glenwood. I, for one, enjoyed it. It is classic West.
The UP line across Wyoming and into Salt Lake City is all double track. The Overland Route is big-time railroading with numerous double-stack and other trains moving at speed. The UP moved us along very well, often running us left handed. One stop was made at Green River for smokers and to get some fresh, although very hot, air. The speed of the Wyoming route was proven when we arrived in Salt Lake City at 8:20pm, nearly three hours early. This was despite the fact that the detour is over 40 miles longer than the Moffat route. This gave us a long stay at Salt Lake City.
We left Salt Lake on-time at 11:35pm and I called it a night about an hour later as we passed the casino hotels at Wendover on the Utah - Nevada border. I slept pretty well in my comfortable little room. The next morning I got up as we approached Battle Mountain, Nevada. Winnemucca was reached just a bit late, but extra padding added between there and Reno resulted in us making up so much time that we had to sit on a siding at Thisbe (NV) to avoid arriving over an hour early at the UP rail yard stop at Sparks. Finally, Reno was reached at about 12:30, just a few minutes late. After some quick goodbyes to the Fest folks (most of whom were having lunch), I stepped off the train at the new Reno trench station. Except for my one-night stay at Harrah's (located right at the station) and my on-time flights home, my mini-fest was over.
The Roomette proved to be far more comfortable than I had thought it would be. It is really a very nice accommodation for a solo traveler. I did not miss the in-room toilet and sink facilities of the Bedroom as much as I feared, but did miss the ability to look out both sides of the train as you can with a bedroom. My car (same as AlanB's) had some air conditioning issues that worsened after the fresh air stop at Green River. By the time we approached Salt Lake City, the car was just plain hot. I feared a sweaty, sleepless night. But the situation improved during the three-hour stop and by the time we left Salt Lake, the car was comfortable. Our car attendant was quiet and efficient. He was not chummy, but I do not need chummy. He did a fine job, and kept us well stocked with bottled water: a necessity in the dry, high altitude air. In the morning he had my room changed back to day mode before I even went to breakfast. Good man.
Food service was a mixed bag. The food itself was quite good. My choices were: lunch, Angus Beef Burger (a little dry but OK): dinner, Beef Bourguignonne (with wine, and very good!): and breakfast, the Continental (I miss the pancakes, but I added sausage patties and it was fine). No complaints about the food. Service was a bit haphazard. There is a lot of work for the food crew: probably too much with a full trainload of passengers. Reservations were taken for lunch and dinner and seatings spanned a long time period. Lunch seatings, for example, ran to 3pm with nothing earlier than 2:15 available when they got to me. Once seated, the service was not exactly speedy but was not horrible either. You are on the train, so who really cares if you have to wait a bit. Particularly at dinner when the sleeper AC was misbehaving, it actually was nice to linger in the nice, cool diner.
The Zephyr trip was very, very nice. It was great to share a part of the RailFest and see the UP's big-time Overland Route in action. It was a spur of the moment deal (my specialty), and I am glad I did it, even if it did leave family and friends shaking their heads.