Detroit, MI

[Madzoo]

I want to take a short trip to downtown Detroit to look at some of the architecture and sculptures. I would take a cab (or if I'm lucky, a hotel shuttle) to and from the station, but after that, I just want to walk around at look at stuff. Are there usually cabs available at the station in the afternoon?

I have five things that I really want to see: the Guardian Building, the Penobscot Building, the Renaissance Center, the Spirit of Detroit sculture, and the Joe Louis Memorial. Are these all within safe walking distance of one another? Are there other cool things in the area? I also think it would be fun to ride the People Mover to get a view of the city.

If any of you have information about downtown Detroit that you'd be willing to share with me I would appreciate it.

Thanks.

 

[the_traveler]

I moved your question to our main forum for you.

 

[SarahZ]

Everything but the RenCen is just off the Financial District People Mover stop. They're all within a block of each other, right along or off Woodward. If you're going during the day, that area will be full of tourists and locals. I've walked along those streets many times, and I've never felt scared. Just be vigilant and smart, as always.

The RenCen has its own People Mover stop. I definitely recommend carving out some time, as the River Walk is nice, and you're just a hop from Greektown (my favorite area). You can take the People Mover or walk. Again, I feel comfortable in that area, even during the evening.

If you can, I highly recommend going to Lafayette Coney Island for a coney or two. I LOVE that place. Their arch-rival, American Coney, is right next door, so you could have one coney at each and decide who's your favorite. (We prefer Lafayette.) They're at the corner of Griswold and Lafayette, just north of the Penobscot Building.

 

[SarahZ]

This is how they carry the orders of coneys at Lafayette. I've never seen them drop one, and they walk FAST. The place is hopping every time we go in there.

 

[Bob Dylan]

Sarah covered Detroit well and if you have a Passport consider taking the tunnel bus over to Windsor, (its totally safe @ night) and eat @ the Tunnel Bar-B-Q joint, its Canadian eh ?with Real Beer! Plus the Windsor Casino is fun too, if you happen to win its Tax Free! LOL

Also, back in downtown Detroit, the restored historic Fox Theater is worth a look see and the two new Stadiums, Ford Field for the Lions and Commercia Park for the Tigers ( fun to watch a game!) is across the street on Woodward Ave on the way to the Amtrak Station?

 

[Steve4031]

Don't forget the Motown museum if you like music. You need a cab for this one.

 

[Madzoo]

Thanks everyone! I'm starting to feel like I may want to spend more time there than I originally thought. I just read that Woodward is going to be closed while they lay tracks for the light rail. I'm a little concerned about that, but I'm guessing it won't matter to me that much as a pedestrian.

 

[montana mike]

I lived in the Detroit area for 12 years. As the other folks said--that specific area you are considering is "generally safe during the day". I would NOT be there at night, however. Much of the former downtown and center city, and I was just there a few months ago on business, is either abandoned, vandalized or has been torn down. I grew up in Dearborn (just 10 miles away) a number of years ago and we used to enjoy the many amenities of downtown Detroit. Those days are long gone, sad to say. When I lived there as a child there were over 2 million inhabitants, now there are less than 700,000 (and as many of the locals say: they must have counted the rats!!).

I would also highly recommend the Henry Ford Museum and Greenfield Village, just a few miles away as an outstanding example of American history and the industrial revolution. Very well done and totally safe.

 

[amtrakmichigan]

I live about 20 miles from downtown Detroit. I very rarely (as with most suburbanites) visit Detroit as the city is FULL of violence, poverty and as many know is now bankrupt. The cities police chief has publicly suggested that citizens should be armed and know how to defend themselves and there homes because the police department can't keep the citizens safe. That being said, I wouldn't even consider venturing outside the areas you are considering to visit.

As others have mentioned the areas you are planning on seeing should be half way safe during the day, but DO NOT venture out the aprox. 1 square mile area you are considering to visit. The People Mover is really the only public transportation the city offers and it's a VERY small system that doesn't travel very far. Another public transportation option is the Smart Bus, but I would avoid that at all cost due to safety (bus drivers have been beaten and killed on the bus system recently).

Taxi cabs can be hard to find even in the downtown area. Cabs are not available in even the downtown area as you might expect. You may want to consider calling a cab company to make arrangements prior to your arrival.

 

[Madzoo]

It would definitely be during the day and only in that small area. I already told myself if I really don't feel comfortable, I'll just hang out in the hotel room. I'd still get a train ride out of it.

 

[caravanman]

I am not surprised that the restaurant which serves coney was hopping... Over here a coney is a rabbit...

I visited Detroit a few years back on a day trip from Chicago, specially to see the urban decay I had heard about. Detroit is billed as the first post industrial city. I very much enjoyed my visit. I just took the bus from near the station to and from the downtown area. It was pretty much a flying visit as I had to get the train back the same day. I was most impressed with the Cadillac Tower and The Fisher building, both of which are near the station, and enjoyed my ride on the people mover.

I like Buffalo for similar reasons, the architecture is very grand but the city seems to be half empty of people?

Have a good time!

Ed

 

[Bob Dylan]

Good point about Buffalo Eddie and Rochester is another comparable Faded Rose in the Rust Belt!

Several times when connecting from the Lake Shore to the Maple Leaf I visited these two,and while sad to see deterioation and lack of people, found both to have fascinating buildings and histories!

 

[northnorthwest]

Perhaps Detroit has improved since I was there in 2003 or 2004. My guess is it has gotten worse. At that time I took a greyhound bus from Ann Arbor to spend the day there with the assumption that there would be places for me to stumble across and explore, including places to eat. There were not. I have never seen an American downtown like that. It was totally empty. The formerly grand old skyscrapers were just empty, abandoned, busted windows. There was nobody on the street. There were no stores or restaurants or anything. I was accosted in a very aggressive way by a homeless man. It just looked like the place went through the apocalypse. In fact, at another time passing through to take the train I was in the Amtrak men's room in Toledo, and another man commented that Detroit "looked like it got bombed out during the war." It really did. The people mover was like something at the local amusement park. Again nobody boarded it while I rode it. The whole place was a total ghost town, like a Twilight Zone episode.

All that said, I can recommend the DIA and the African American History Museum.

 

[City of Miami]

Gee, I plan to go in October. I'd be there 28 hrs to see an opera matinee, stay at the hostel in Corktown, and arr & depart on Amtrak. Am I making a mistake? Should I reconsider?

Is it worse than New Orleans after Katrina? That was pretty desolate.

 

[MikefromCrete]

Gee, I plan to go in October. I'd be there 28 hrs to see an opera matinee, stay at the hostel in Corktown, and arr & depart on Amtrak. Am I making a mistake? Should I reconsider?

Is it worse than New Orleans after Katrina? That was pretty desolate.

Don't let the naysayers get you down. Experience it for yourself.

 

[SarahZ]

Don't let the negative opinions sway you. Corktown is fine, and I've been going to Detroit since I was a kid. I've been to many sporting events and concerts along the section of Woodward the OP mentioned, and I've been on the People Mover at night.

As long as you're smart, avoid the sketchy areas, listen to your gut, and don't go exploring unfamiliar blocks, you'll be fine. Downtown has seen some revitalization (the Book Cadillac hotel is a great example), and if you hang out along Woodward and in Greektown, you won't get that "post-apocalyptic/Robocop" feeling that others mentioned.

On the other hand, that aspect IS pretty cool. To me, it's sad, because it was a beautiful city that I really wish could be populated and popular again, but the "I can totally picture zombies here" feeling is kind of fun.

 

[Bob Dylan]

I agree with Sarah and Mike John, what you plan for your trip to Detroit is fine! The one caveat I would say is to not walk the streets @ night away from the River front or away from Greektown! !(ask @ the Hostel about ideas, I haven't stayed in Corktown)I'd suggest using a cab to get to/from the Amtrak Station if it's dark and don't go to the Greyhound Station Area @ all!

As I've told others, Windsor is safe @ night, has good food and drink (and clubs)and is easy to get to by hoping on the tunnel bus! A passport is required!

 

[SarahZ]

Windsor is awesome. Back when it was much easier to cross the border (i.e. pre-9/11), we used to go there for dinner all the time. There were many nights we'd try to figure out where we wanted to eat, and I'd say, "Let's go to Canada!"

Plus, the drinking age is 19, so lots of young college students head over to Windsor on weekends.

If you do the RiverWalk, you'll be able to see Windsor across the Detroit River. It's only a half-mile from shore to shore.

 

[Madzoo]

I like Buffalo for similar reasons, the architecture is very grand but the city seems to be half empty of people?

I would also like to visit Buffalo. I especially want to see the Guaranty Building.

As for Detroit, I looked at the crime maps for the zip code I'd be visiting, and there were no big surprises. Outside of that area, it looks like it gets really bad. I still want to go. The tourism video I saw about downtown is working on me.

 

[Bob Dylan]

I like Buffalo for similar reasons, the architecture is very grand but the city seems to be half empty of people?

I would also like to visit Buffalo. I especially want to see the Guaranty Building.

As for Detroit, I looked at the crime maps for the zip code I'd be visiting, and there were no big surprizes. Outside of that area, it looks like it gets really bad. I still want to go. The tourism video I saw about downtown is working on me.

Be sure and visit City Hall in Buffalo and go up to the top of the Tower for the view! And there are lots of other interesting buildings downtown along with the Anchor Bar where supposedly Buffalo Wings were invented! The line forms early for lunch and happy hour but worth it as a Bucket List item!

 

[SarahZ]

Yeah, it does decline pretty quickly once you get away from Woodward and the riverfront. Michigan Central Station is near the lot where Tiger Stadium used to be, but I don't recommend walking through that area. If you want to see MCS, get a cab. It was bad even in the 80s, when we went to a lot of Tigers games. We always borrowed our great uncle's old beater car instead of driving our family car.

If you love old churches, definitely hit up Old St. Mary's in Greektown.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g42139-d585076-Reviews-Old_St_Mary_s_Church-Detroit_Michigan.html

 

[Old MM]

It's not quite like a war zone? I think some of the impressions are overblown... on the other hand it's not been developed as a place for tourists to come visit. Or for most people to want to be outside at 5:01 pm. Not well planned or executed. Kind of makes my blood boil in a way, so much wasted potential.

 

[Marylee]

My sister, cousin, aunt and I were there 2 weeks ago. We drove to St. Anne's, 2 cemeteries (saw a fox at one) and the house where my mother was born in 1923. We had no problems and the neighbors were friendly even when 3 women jumped out of the car and started taking pictures! Even my sister, who isn't too adventurous did not feel nervous. Just be aware and use commonsense. Have a great trip. P.S. Also drove through Buffalo on that same trip.

 

[ARBKAL]

Surprised by the negativity on here by people who clearly haven't been there that recently. Make no mistake, it's no Boston or Chicago, but if you've never been, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. There has been a lot of revival in the downtown area these past couple years. I could list stats, but I'll spare you the time and respectfully offer a few rebuttals:

1-The city has had a lot built/renovated in the past 10 years, with several businesses moving in. Sure there is plenty of work still to be done, but it is literally a different city from what it was was in 03/04, so I wouldn't take northnorthwest's post with much weight. This is coming from someone who heads down weekly.

2- As to amtrakmichigan's post: It appears we both reside in the same suburb, yet my experience is far different. I can honestly say I don't have any friend from the suburbs that doesn't go to Detroit on at least a semi-regular basis, and that is no exaggeration. You'll find your suburbanites that swear they won't go, but anyone that has been down recently will tell you they'll be back. Sure there is violence, but the new chief of police has done an outstanding job reducing the crime rate. Furthermore, the crime stats over the last few years have consistently shown that nearly all violent crime in Detroit was committed outside of the Downtown/Midtown/Riverfront areas. Lastly, DDOT drivers have had issues in the past with unrully passengers, but these were on routes outside the main downtown areas (where you'll be). The death he refers to was actually the result of a medical condition, causing the driver to crash. It was actually pretty tragic, but not at all the result of violence.

The short version: There's violence, but what large city doesn't have their share? You'd have to drive outside the downtown area (more than just the "tiny 1 mile box" everyone is talking about) before you'd have to start worrying, and there's really nothing that would bring you out that way anyway. Many of the naysayers, both locals and visitors, don't frequent the downtown so they really don't have an accurate view of the current city. Go with what you have planned/others have suggested, and you won't be disappointed. In addition, if you're a food fan like myself I'd highly recommend checking out Eastern Market (http://www.detroiteasternmarket.com/), and definitely check out Campus Martius Park (it's right among many of the buildings you intend to see, easily with a minute or two walk).

 

[montana mike]

Hmmmm, I am in this area a lot each year, and lived just 25 miles north of Detroit for 12 years and must beg to differ. A good part of the "city" is still in ruins and even the fire fighters will not venture into many neighborhoods without a police escort. Yes, there are some bright spots, but not many. Sure, during the daytime most of the locations mentioned should be ok, BUT a word of caution. The city and its services are in failure mode. When I was there last (May) I spoke with several cops who said they have not seen things this bad in all the years they had been on the force. The night sadly belongs to the thugs in many neighborhoods. I saw first hand that most street lights in quite a few neighborhoods were either rout or even missing (stolen for parts), the water services are sporadic at best. Fire hydrants in parts of the city just don't work period, cops must go into certain neighborhoods in groups and car jacking is a "routine" event each day. The streets themselves in some parts have potholes that are legendary. This now relatively small city of 700,000 mostly poor people is saddled with a $19 Billion debt-a legacy of total mismanagement and crime for thirty years.

I don't want to paint an apocalyptic view, but a realistic one. It is what it is. Will the city come back I hope so, but--too early to tell. They just threw out the very corrupt mayor (now in prison), only time will tell. But so much is broken it is hard to imagine any quick reversal of fortune. It took 3 decades to destroy the city thru rampant corruption and criminal activity, so don't expect things to turn around quickly.

PS--The Eastern market is indeed a bright spot and is held during the day--I concur with that comment......