p&sr
OBS Chief
I was fortunate to be aboard the California Zephyr for the recent Rare Mileage Trip up the Feather River Canyon on September 9th. I rode from Martinez to Elko, and back the next day on the Zephyr's usual route over Donner Pass. The Trip was not very widely known, as there was only a small contingent of RailFans on board, and most of the Passengers were surprised to learn about the Detour.
The Geography of the Feather River Route is interesting. The Train follows the River very closely, allowing for a steady but gentle climb into and through the Sierra Nevada Range. The River actually cuts through the Sierra Crest, with its Headwaters well to the East of the Mountains. And where most of the High Sierra country is solid Granite, here the Granite section occurs mid-way up the Canyon, with a return to Gold-bearing Rock further east.
The first contact with the Feather River is just north of the Town of Oroville, and just upstream from the Thermalito Diversion Dam (part of the vast California Water Project). This is the area of a famous Train Disaster from 1965, which you can read about at: http://members.tripod.com/~djkuba/index-5.html
As the Train climbs the foothills, there are views of the areas downstream flooded by the Diversion Canal.
The West Branch of the Feather River is crossed as an arm of Lake Oroville (behind the massive Oroville Dam), on the lower level of a Bridge whose upper level carries Highway 70. Then there is a series of short tunnels through very rugged hilly country, with occasional views of the Lake (which has extremely low water levels this year). Finally there is a major tunnel through the Mountain, from which we emerged into the Feather River Canyon (along the North Fork of the River) well upstream from the Lake. The main source for this Fork is Lake Almanor (near Mt. Lassen National Park), but the RailRoad (and Hwy 70) instead follow the East Branch of the North Fork up to its origin at Paxton, then heading Southeast along Spanish Creek (and Greenhorn Creek, which feeds into it).
Just as there is no more Creek to follow, the route goes through the Spring Garden Tunnel (7344 ft long), emerging onto the Middle Fork of the Feather River, still a rather large River at this point. Downstream from this area, the Middle Fork is very rugged and entirely wild, with no access at all by Road, Railroad, or even Trail. The Route follows this Fork upstream, east of the town of Portola (with its famous RailRoad Museum), to its headwaters in the wetlands and marshes east of the Sierras.
Enough for the Geography, now back to my Trip Report.
We set the Alarms early that Tuesday Morning, to allow for Coffee and Toast at home while finalizing my packing... just a small day-pack for this overnight trip with no hotel stay (a new concept in Train Trips called "Sleepless Travel"). Out before dawn, my Travel Companion, Moonlight Express, dropped me off in time for the day's first Amtrak Bus through our hometown. The bus was a Charter Bus rather than the usual Amtrak model. After a stop in Vallejo, we either missed our turn or took an Alternate Route, across the new Carquinez Straits Suspension Bridge on Hwy 80. I could see the training ship "Golden Bear" in port at the State Maritime Academy below us. We climbed the Cummings Skyway over the hilltops to connect to Hwy 4, which leads to Martinez.
Along the way, the door of the bus kept popping open. Each time, we would pull to the side and the driver would close and fasten it again. Finally he tied it shut with some sort of a strap. When it popped open again, there was a distinctive metallic clash and clunk. We stopped a mile down the road and the driver announced that the Strap was his keychain, and all of his keys had just fallen out of the Bus onto the Highway shoulder. So we enjoyed the scenery (grassy hills with forested canyons below) and the fresh morning air while the driver ran back and ultimately did recover the keys. This time when he tied the door shut, he used something less indispensable. He called in and explained that we had been delayed but that we would be arriving in a few minutes. We then circled the back way around town and came in the usual way from the east (more freeway, but avoiding a long trip through Town on city streets). Just as we were pulling in, we saw the 8:00 Capitol Corridor Train pulling out west-bound. We were supposed to be there at 7:50, but that train was not considered a "guaranteed connection" for us, so they did not hold it to wait for the bus.
Just as well, since this avoided any tempation I might have felt to travel West and catch the Zephyr at its departure from Emeryville... the connection there was tight enough that a few minutes delay would have ruined the whole trip, with no recourse.
So I settled in to enjoy my Home Station until the arrival of the Zephyr at 9:34. Everything seemed to be in order, the Zephyr was expected on time, and the Feather River Detour confirmed. I enjoyed a Poppyseed Muffin and a 7-Up at the little Stand inside the Station. (The Cranberry Muffins are better, and to be recommended, but had already sold out). I watched an eastbound Freight Train pull through, and then the 8:19 Train from Bakersfield, then took a walk out to the Waterfront. It was a beautiful morning, low overcast but clear at ground level. Out on the Pier, by the former FerryBoat landing, folks were fishing and I saw a 2-foot Striped Bass on one fellow's line. At 8:45 there were Capitol Corridor Trains both eastbound and westbound, passing through the Station at the same time. From the Wetlands I watched the eastbound Train approaching, winding along the Shores of Carquinez Straits, and then departing for Sacramento across the huge Benicia RailRoad Drawbridge. Pointing this out to a local jogger, she was quite interested and said she had never seen that before... in fact, didn't know they HAD any Trains at Martinez. This shows that we have a long ways to go in letting people know about Amtrak and Train Travel, since Martinez has more daily Amtrak Departures and Arrivals than any station West of Chicago!
At 9:30 there was another Westbound Capitol Corridor. As I was watching it pull in, the Assistant Conductor asked where I was going. I said, "The other way, I'm just watching". We chatted a bit, and I mentioned the Feather River Detour. He then repeated that to the Senior Conductor (who had just arrived), referring to me as a "foamer" (RailFan). Then he said, "No offense, the Conductor here is one too", which the Conductor then affirmed. So I guess now I'm officially in the Club.
We had a smooth departure on the Zephyr as scheduled at 9:34, with fine views of Suisun Bay and the Ghost Fleet as we crossed the Drawbridge. Passing the Refineries and the areas for transferring imported Automobiles from Ship to Train, we took the low route rather than the Trestle Bridge next to the Freeway (on return we took the Trestle, so evidently both routes are still in use). At Suisun/Fairfield we passed a Westbound Capitol Corridor Train. In the Wetlands beyond there, I saw a flock of white Pelicans. Crossing the farmlands on the way to Dixon there were tall fields of corn, and acres of Sunflowers.
At Dixon we saw the old Depot, and the signs for "Historic Route 40" (from San Franciso to Atlantic City, NJ). Crossing Putah Creek, we entered the Campus of U.C.Davis, passing close by the new Mondavi Center for the Performing Arts, and then stopping at the Town of Davis (10:27 AM, just 11 minutes behind schedule), seeing another Westbound Capitol Corridor Train there. Pulling out from town, I noticed the tracks leading north through town to Woodland, connecting there with one of the Tourist Trains of the Sierra RailRoad.
Seated across from me was another RailFan, who had boarded at Emeryville. He was well prepared with route information from Altamont Press. For myself, I was bringing AAA maps which showed the route in great detail. Nobody else in our Car seemed to be aware of the Detour, or of its historical significance. One couple boarded at Davis for Reno, and they were caught completely by surprise when they found out they would be taking a Bus from Sacramento. Others quickly became interested when we explained about the beauty of the route we would be taking, for that one day only... including a fellow on his way home to Boston (via Chicago and the LSL), and a pleasant lady from Salt Lake City who delivers School Busses around the country, returning home by Train when she gets the chance (hello C.!) It's always a pleasure to find interested people who enjoy looking at the maps and hearing about the points of special interest along the way.
Crossing the Yolo Causeway and passing through West Sacramento (with some interesting Cactus Gardens next to the Track), we crossed the River by the RailRoad Museum and pulled into Sacramento at 10:45 AM... ahead of Schedule. I was able to say hello to A.U. Member Alice from Oroville as she was boarding her sleeper. We visited several times during the Trip, and thanks to her Scanner she was always up-to-date about Train movements.
Just out of Sacramento, I had my first Train Meal of the Day, a hot Bratwurst and a Pepsi from the Snack Bar.
I was pleased to see that we then headed for Roseville (rather than due North on the route of the Coast Starlight), since that meant we would be seeing additional sections of new Track. We arrived there about 11:30 AM, seeing hundreds of Engines in the extensive U.P. Yards there (more than ever before), as well as a large Rotary Snowplow. Immediately after the Depot, we headed North to begin our Detour. This allowed us to see some interesting and historic neighborhoods in Roseville itself, and the little town of Lincoln out in the middle of Farming Country. We crossed the Bear River as it leaves the Foothills, and the Yuba River (with extensive floodplains and levees) as we entered Marysville.
Heading through Marysville, we stayed on elevated Tracks so the Trains are not affected by the frequent floods in the town. We passed a park with a lake on the east edge of town, which was familiar from driving trips through the region. Just north of town we came to Binney Junction. This is where the northbound Starlight, heading north-east, turns north towards Chico, and where we, heading north, turned north-east towards Oroville and the Feather River. Again we cut across open country, with no roads nearby. There were extensive Olive Orchards along the way, and a few Rice Paddies. Through the town of Oroville we were again on elevated Track. Once we crossed the Feather River and began climbing the foothills, the views became spectacular.
Near the town of Cherokee there is a horseshoe curve where the track crosses Hwy 70 twice. The tip of the horseshoe is in a tunnel, and at the open ends of the curve the ridge is low enough to see Trains on the other side. On the approach we saw a freight train moving left ahead of us (where we would soon be), then moving right (between the hills). That train then waited on a siding while we passed. From there on we saw plenty of freight trains in both directions, but were given the right-of-way each time so we hardly ever had to wait for them.
After crossing an arm of Lake Oroville and passing through several tunnels, we emerged into the Feather River Canyon (North Fork). The canyon is very deep and very steep, with the tracks right near the River, giving great views of rapids and massive granite boulders and occasional deep pools. Passing a small hydro-electric plant (with a small and very remote access road), we eventually came to the settlement called Pulga. At this point Hwy 70 enters the Canyon and crosses the river to the east bank, just as the train crosses over to the west bank. From there on, we were generally in view of the Highway. There were railfans waving and photographing us all along the way, and in particular a bright red van that we saw time and time again, cruising alongside us or meeting us at crossings and other good viewpoints.
We saw the Highway pass through a number of long tunnels inside the solid Granite canyon-walls. At Rock Creek we crossed a high trestle bridge (one of many as we continued climbing into the Mountains). At Tobin we crossed back to the east bank, directly over the Highway Bridge as they crossed over to the west bank. At Beldin (in the Bucks Lake Wilderness Area), we waited for the Westbound Zephyr (#5) to pass, then continued up the final granite section of the Canyon. We saw a helicopter hovering nearby, then landing at a Highway Maintenance Station, and a little cable-car of some sort to allow utility personnel to cross the river (perhaps for a water-gauging station). All along the way were sparking waters, deep ponds as smooth as mirrors, and the perpetual Red Van.
About this point we turned onto the East Branch of the North Fork, and came back into Gold Country at Rich Bar, Virgilia, and Twain. We did see people searching for Gold in the Riverbed, using rafts (anchored in place) and suction equipment to dig through the gravel. We climbed high above the River at Paxton, where Hwy 70 meets Hwy 89 and where Indian Creek joins Spanish Creek to form the East Branch we were following. Heading Southeast from there, we approached the famous Keddie Wye with a series of tunnels and trestle bridges, seeing even more dramatic RailRoad bridges across the Canyon from us. Finally we emerged onto the Wye... a matched pair of high bridges curving across the River, one going northeast, and ours going southeast. The Wye is completed with a tunnel connecting the northeast and southeast branches inside the mountain.
After the Wye, and a remote Depot in the U.P. Yards nearby, we followed Spanish Creek through a roadless area for some while, before emerging to "American Valley"... a large area of meadows containing the Town of Quincy. We were high above the valley floor, and saw the junction of the Quincy RailRoad which drops into the valley with a 4% grade. (The main route of the former Western Pacific was never more than 1%). Shortly thereafter, by Massack Road, we came to the Williams Loop. This (along with the better-known Tehachapi Loop) is one of only two RailRoad Loops in the United States currently in commercial use. We veered left across a meadow, then into a forested area as we completed the loop. Finally back to the same meadow again and crossing our own tracks with a bridge and embankment.
Next we came to the Spring Garden Tunnel, cutting through to the Middle Fork of the Feather River. While inside the Tunnel, they called the 5 PM seating in the Dining Car. From there to Portola I enjoyed their Roast Game Hen (aka "chicken"), with a good salad, and coffee and ice cream for dessert. Past the resort area of Graeagle, we crossed a high Trestle Bridge over Willow Creek near Clio, then turned east across more open country toward Portola, which was a crew change point. We saw some historic equipment there (including a large snowplow) at the RailRoad Museum, and pulled out of town at 6:00 PM. Crossing the wetlands east of there I saw a Beaver Dam, and there were fine views of the Desert Ranges of Nevada glowing red in the light of sunset. At Vinton we waited 20 minutes for a Freight Train to pass the other way, then at 7:00 PM passed through the Chilcoot Tunnel (6002 feet long... no connection to the better known Chilkoot Pass between Alaska and the Yukon) and entered the Great Basin at Reno Junction. We headed north for 25 miles near Highway 395, through Ranching Country in Long Valley... just a stone's throw from the State Line. Finally just at sunset we turned east at the Sierra Army Depot and began the crossing of the Nevada Desert. Very remote country as we worked our way north of Pyramid Lake toward Winnemucca. The last thing I could see was the Train's headlight shining on the hills, with a Green Light on the Tracks... All Clear Ahead!
To be continued in Part II.
The Geography of the Feather River Route is interesting. The Train follows the River very closely, allowing for a steady but gentle climb into and through the Sierra Nevada Range. The River actually cuts through the Sierra Crest, with its Headwaters well to the East of the Mountains. And where most of the High Sierra country is solid Granite, here the Granite section occurs mid-way up the Canyon, with a return to Gold-bearing Rock further east.
The first contact with the Feather River is just north of the Town of Oroville, and just upstream from the Thermalito Diversion Dam (part of the vast California Water Project). This is the area of a famous Train Disaster from 1965, which you can read about at: http://members.tripod.com/~djkuba/index-5.html
As the Train climbs the foothills, there are views of the areas downstream flooded by the Diversion Canal.
The West Branch of the Feather River is crossed as an arm of Lake Oroville (behind the massive Oroville Dam), on the lower level of a Bridge whose upper level carries Highway 70. Then there is a series of short tunnels through very rugged hilly country, with occasional views of the Lake (which has extremely low water levels this year). Finally there is a major tunnel through the Mountain, from which we emerged into the Feather River Canyon (along the North Fork of the River) well upstream from the Lake. The main source for this Fork is Lake Almanor (near Mt. Lassen National Park), but the RailRoad (and Hwy 70) instead follow the East Branch of the North Fork up to its origin at Paxton, then heading Southeast along Spanish Creek (and Greenhorn Creek, which feeds into it).
Just as there is no more Creek to follow, the route goes through the Spring Garden Tunnel (7344 ft long), emerging onto the Middle Fork of the Feather River, still a rather large River at this point. Downstream from this area, the Middle Fork is very rugged and entirely wild, with no access at all by Road, Railroad, or even Trail. The Route follows this Fork upstream, east of the town of Portola (with its famous RailRoad Museum), to its headwaters in the wetlands and marshes east of the Sierras.
Enough for the Geography, now back to my Trip Report.
We set the Alarms early that Tuesday Morning, to allow for Coffee and Toast at home while finalizing my packing... just a small day-pack for this overnight trip with no hotel stay (a new concept in Train Trips called "Sleepless Travel"). Out before dawn, my Travel Companion, Moonlight Express, dropped me off in time for the day's first Amtrak Bus through our hometown. The bus was a Charter Bus rather than the usual Amtrak model. After a stop in Vallejo, we either missed our turn or took an Alternate Route, across the new Carquinez Straits Suspension Bridge on Hwy 80. I could see the training ship "Golden Bear" in port at the State Maritime Academy below us. We climbed the Cummings Skyway over the hilltops to connect to Hwy 4, which leads to Martinez.
Along the way, the door of the bus kept popping open. Each time, we would pull to the side and the driver would close and fasten it again. Finally he tied it shut with some sort of a strap. When it popped open again, there was a distinctive metallic clash and clunk. We stopped a mile down the road and the driver announced that the Strap was his keychain, and all of his keys had just fallen out of the Bus onto the Highway shoulder. So we enjoyed the scenery (grassy hills with forested canyons below) and the fresh morning air while the driver ran back and ultimately did recover the keys. This time when he tied the door shut, he used something less indispensable. He called in and explained that we had been delayed but that we would be arriving in a few minutes. We then circled the back way around town and came in the usual way from the east (more freeway, but avoiding a long trip through Town on city streets). Just as we were pulling in, we saw the 8:00 Capitol Corridor Train pulling out west-bound. We were supposed to be there at 7:50, but that train was not considered a "guaranteed connection" for us, so they did not hold it to wait for the bus.
Just as well, since this avoided any tempation I might have felt to travel West and catch the Zephyr at its departure from Emeryville... the connection there was tight enough that a few minutes delay would have ruined the whole trip, with no recourse.
So I settled in to enjoy my Home Station until the arrival of the Zephyr at 9:34. Everything seemed to be in order, the Zephyr was expected on time, and the Feather River Detour confirmed. I enjoyed a Poppyseed Muffin and a 7-Up at the little Stand inside the Station. (The Cranberry Muffins are better, and to be recommended, but had already sold out). I watched an eastbound Freight Train pull through, and then the 8:19 Train from Bakersfield, then took a walk out to the Waterfront. It was a beautiful morning, low overcast but clear at ground level. Out on the Pier, by the former FerryBoat landing, folks were fishing and I saw a 2-foot Striped Bass on one fellow's line. At 8:45 there were Capitol Corridor Trains both eastbound and westbound, passing through the Station at the same time. From the Wetlands I watched the eastbound Train approaching, winding along the Shores of Carquinez Straits, and then departing for Sacramento across the huge Benicia RailRoad Drawbridge. Pointing this out to a local jogger, she was quite interested and said she had never seen that before... in fact, didn't know they HAD any Trains at Martinez. This shows that we have a long ways to go in letting people know about Amtrak and Train Travel, since Martinez has more daily Amtrak Departures and Arrivals than any station West of Chicago!
At 9:30 there was another Westbound Capitol Corridor. As I was watching it pull in, the Assistant Conductor asked where I was going. I said, "The other way, I'm just watching". We chatted a bit, and I mentioned the Feather River Detour. He then repeated that to the Senior Conductor (who had just arrived), referring to me as a "foamer" (RailFan). Then he said, "No offense, the Conductor here is one too", which the Conductor then affirmed. So I guess now I'm officially in the Club.
We had a smooth departure on the Zephyr as scheduled at 9:34, with fine views of Suisun Bay and the Ghost Fleet as we crossed the Drawbridge. Passing the Refineries and the areas for transferring imported Automobiles from Ship to Train, we took the low route rather than the Trestle Bridge next to the Freeway (on return we took the Trestle, so evidently both routes are still in use). At Suisun/Fairfield we passed a Westbound Capitol Corridor Train. In the Wetlands beyond there, I saw a flock of white Pelicans. Crossing the farmlands on the way to Dixon there were tall fields of corn, and acres of Sunflowers.
At Dixon we saw the old Depot, and the signs for "Historic Route 40" (from San Franciso to Atlantic City, NJ). Crossing Putah Creek, we entered the Campus of U.C.Davis, passing close by the new Mondavi Center for the Performing Arts, and then stopping at the Town of Davis (10:27 AM, just 11 minutes behind schedule), seeing another Westbound Capitol Corridor Train there. Pulling out from town, I noticed the tracks leading north through town to Woodland, connecting there with one of the Tourist Trains of the Sierra RailRoad.
Seated across from me was another RailFan, who had boarded at Emeryville. He was well prepared with route information from Altamont Press. For myself, I was bringing AAA maps which showed the route in great detail. Nobody else in our Car seemed to be aware of the Detour, or of its historical significance. One couple boarded at Davis for Reno, and they were caught completely by surprise when they found out they would be taking a Bus from Sacramento. Others quickly became interested when we explained about the beauty of the route we would be taking, for that one day only... including a fellow on his way home to Boston (via Chicago and the LSL), and a pleasant lady from Salt Lake City who delivers School Busses around the country, returning home by Train when she gets the chance (hello C.!) It's always a pleasure to find interested people who enjoy looking at the maps and hearing about the points of special interest along the way.
Crossing the Yolo Causeway and passing through West Sacramento (with some interesting Cactus Gardens next to the Track), we crossed the River by the RailRoad Museum and pulled into Sacramento at 10:45 AM... ahead of Schedule. I was able to say hello to A.U. Member Alice from Oroville as she was boarding her sleeper. We visited several times during the Trip, and thanks to her Scanner she was always up-to-date about Train movements.
Just out of Sacramento, I had my first Train Meal of the Day, a hot Bratwurst and a Pepsi from the Snack Bar.
I was pleased to see that we then headed for Roseville (rather than due North on the route of the Coast Starlight), since that meant we would be seeing additional sections of new Track. We arrived there about 11:30 AM, seeing hundreds of Engines in the extensive U.P. Yards there (more than ever before), as well as a large Rotary Snowplow. Immediately after the Depot, we headed North to begin our Detour. This allowed us to see some interesting and historic neighborhoods in Roseville itself, and the little town of Lincoln out in the middle of Farming Country. We crossed the Bear River as it leaves the Foothills, and the Yuba River (with extensive floodplains and levees) as we entered Marysville.
Heading through Marysville, we stayed on elevated Tracks so the Trains are not affected by the frequent floods in the town. We passed a park with a lake on the east edge of town, which was familiar from driving trips through the region. Just north of town we came to Binney Junction. This is where the northbound Starlight, heading north-east, turns north towards Chico, and where we, heading north, turned north-east towards Oroville and the Feather River. Again we cut across open country, with no roads nearby. There were extensive Olive Orchards along the way, and a few Rice Paddies. Through the town of Oroville we were again on elevated Track. Once we crossed the Feather River and began climbing the foothills, the views became spectacular.
Near the town of Cherokee there is a horseshoe curve where the track crosses Hwy 70 twice. The tip of the horseshoe is in a tunnel, and at the open ends of the curve the ridge is low enough to see Trains on the other side. On the approach we saw a freight train moving left ahead of us (where we would soon be), then moving right (between the hills). That train then waited on a siding while we passed. From there on we saw plenty of freight trains in both directions, but were given the right-of-way each time so we hardly ever had to wait for them.
After crossing an arm of Lake Oroville and passing through several tunnels, we emerged into the Feather River Canyon (North Fork). The canyon is very deep and very steep, with the tracks right near the River, giving great views of rapids and massive granite boulders and occasional deep pools. Passing a small hydro-electric plant (with a small and very remote access road), we eventually came to the settlement called Pulga. At this point Hwy 70 enters the Canyon and crosses the river to the east bank, just as the train crosses over to the west bank. From there on, we were generally in view of the Highway. There were railfans waving and photographing us all along the way, and in particular a bright red van that we saw time and time again, cruising alongside us or meeting us at crossings and other good viewpoints.
We saw the Highway pass through a number of long tunnels inside the solid Granite canyon-walls. At Rock Creek we crossed a high trestle bridge (one of many as we continued climbing into the Mountains). At Tobin we crossed back to the east bank, directly over the Highway Bridge as they crossed over to the west bank. At Beldin (in the Bucks Lake Wilderness Area), we waited for the Westbound Zephyr (#5) to pass, then continued up the final granite section of the Canyon. We saw a helicopter hovering nearby, then landing at a Highway Maintenance Station, and a little cable-car of some sort to allow utility personnel to cross the river (perhaps for a water-gauging station). All along the way were sparking waters, deep ponds as smooth as mirrors, and the perpetual Red Van.
About this point we turned onto the East Branch of the North Fork, and came back into Gold Country at Rich Bar, Virgilia, and Twain. We did see people searching for Gold in the Riverbed, using rafts (anchored in place) and suction equipment to dig through the gravel. We climbed high above the River at Paxton, where Hwy 70 meets Hwy 89 and where Indian Creek joins Spanish Creek to form the East Branch we were following. Heading Southeast from there, we approached the famous Keddie Wye with a series of tunnels and trestle bridges, seeing even more dramatic RailRoad bridges across the Canyon from us. Finally we emerged onto the Wye... a matched pair of high bridges curving across the River, one going northeast, and ours going southeast. The Wye is completed with a tunnel connecting the northeast and southeast branches inside the mountain.
After the Wye, and a remote Depot in the U.P. Yards nearby, we followed Spanish Creek through a roadless area for some while, before emerging to "American Valley"... a large area of meadows containing the Town of Quincy. We were high above the valley floor, and saw the junction of the Quincy RailRoad which drops into the valley with a 4% grade. (The main route of the former Western Pacific was never more than 1%). Shortly thereafter, by Massack Road, we came to the Williams Loop. This (along with the better-known Tehachapi Loop) is one of only two RailRoad Loops in the United States currently in commercial use. We veered left across a meadow, then into a forested area as we completed the loop. Finally back to the same meadow again and crossing our own tracks with a bridge and embankment.
Next we came to the Spring Garden Tunnel, cutting through to the Middle Fork of the Feather River. While inside the Tunnel, they called the 5 PM seating in the Dining Car. From there to Portola I enjoyed their Roast Game Hen (aka "chicken"), with a good salad, and coffee and ice cream for dessert. Past the resort area of Graeagle, we crossed a high Trestle Bridge over Willow Creek near Clio, then turned east across more open country toward Portola, which was a crew change point. We saw some historic equipment there (including a large snowplow) at the RailRoad Museum, and pulled out of town at 6:00 PM. Crossing the wetlands east of there I saw a Beaver Dam, and there were fine views of the Desert Ranges of Nevada glowing red in the light of sunset. At Vinton we waited 20 minutes for a Freight Train to pass the other way, then at 7:00 PM passed through the Chilcoot Tunnel (6002 feet long... no connection to the better known Chilkoot Pass between Alaska and the Yukon) and entered the Great Basin at Reno Junction. We headed north for 25 miles near Highway 395, through Ranching Country in Long Valley... just a stone's throw from the State Line. Finally just at sunset we turned east at the Sierra Army Depot and began the crossing of the Nevada Desert. Very remote country as we worked our way north of Pyramid Lake toward Winnemucca. The last thing I could see was the Train's headlight shining on the hills, with a Green Light on the Tracks... All Clear Ahead!
To be continued in Part II.
