p&sr
OBS Chief
For the second section of my Rail Tour, the idea was to ride the entire North-East Corridor, including extensions at each end... Newport News and Virginia Beach to the South, and Portland, Maine to the North.
Day 1 began with Sunrise over the Atlantic Ocean. I walked along the Boardwalk at Virginia Beach to the Fishing Pier, and returned through the Amusement Park. The town is filled with bars and restaurants and tattoo-and-piercing parlours, and places selling "exotic knives". Signs along the street advise "no swearing". Pretty peaceful this early in the morning, however.
I caught the 7:00 AM Amtrak Bus right behind my hotel. The streets heading west are named Atlantic, Pacific, Baltic, and Mediterranean. Back through Norfolk and Portsmouth, with long bridges and a couple of tunnels. Groups of fighter jets were seen and heard patrolling the skies around the port complex. At the Station in Newport News, we saw the Train backing in from the yards: 1 engine, and 8 single-level cars. The first was "Business Class", then 2 coach, then cafe, then 4 coach.
Retracing yesterday's scenic run from Washington, the views of downtown Richmond and the James River turned out to be better in this direction. In Ashland I noted the small business district and historic depot (now a visitor's center) with its clock standing outside. The weather was sunny and clear, giving great views of the wetlands along the Potomac River. At Lorton I saw the Auto Train in its depot. And just before crossing the Potomac at Alexandria, I caught a glimpse of the Pentagon. Planes landing at the Reagan National Airport flew right over us on the bridge. We arrived at 1:25 PM, and I saw the Capitol Limited pulling in to the Station.
Breakfast on the Train was a hot dog and Pepsi. Lunch in the Food Court at Union Station was at the "Rice Bowl" Chinese place... beef with broccoli over combination rice and noodles, and a Sprite... delicious!
I bought an all-day pass for the Metro (the third machine finally agreed to accept my cash transaction), and rode the Red Line to Silver Spring and Glenmont. We passed the yards for VRE, MARC, and the Metro, and followed the tracks for the Capitol Limited as far as Silver Spring. Then I took the Orange Line to East Falls Church, Virginia (the first station after the line emerges from underground and begins to run down the middle of a freeway). My Econolodge Motel was conveniently but obscurely located just a block away. This involved going up stairs from the station's parking lot, crossing the Bike Path, following a residential street, turning on a dead end, rejoining the Bike Path next to the Freeway, and walking across a construction site. One house along the way had a front yard grown dramatically wild (like a little piece of prairie), with a sign declaring that it was a "certified wildlife habitat" (so there!).
Dropping off my luggage, I headed straight back downtown, exiting at "Federal Triangle". I found my way to the Smithsonian's Natural History Museum by 4:40 PM, and was delighted to see that they would stay open until 7:30 PM. I enjoyed the Gemstone and Mineral exhibit in some detail, then took a quick look at everything else on display. For souvenirs, I picked up a beautifully illustrated book about the Gemstone Collection, and a small pearly fossil Ammonite from Madagascar (Gondwanaland). The Dinosaur exhibit was also a classic!
Then I walked along the Mall, "America's Front Yard". There were lots of folks out walking, running, and playing team sports. I could hear the Trains on the near-by tracks just to the south. There were a couple of flashy motorcades with police escorts on motorcycles. I walked to the base of the Washington Monument, with views of the Capitol, the Lincoln Monument, and the White House. At Smithsonian Station, I caught the Metro, Blue Line to Red Line to Rockville and Shady Grove, again seeing the tracks for the Capitol Limited. Then the Yellow Line, crossing the Potomac for that classic view on a sparkling fresh night.
At Pentagon Station I transferred to the Blue Line to Franconia-Springfield (end of the line). On return, there were dramatic but brief views of the Capitol from the Reagan Airport. Transferring to the Orange Line, the train was absolutely packed with Hockey Fans in their bright red shirts. Very sorrowful, as their team had just lost. The freeway to Falls Church was jammed as well, including lots of Hockey Fans who were honking at the Fans on the Train. Also on board were Police in a wide variety of uniforms, in town for a national convention of Police Officers. Returning to the Motel at 10:30 PM, it turned out there was no chance for dinner as the "nearby" restaurants were not within walking distance.
Day 2 was the actual North-East Corridor. I ended up riding the Subways in Rush Hour, both in Washington and in Boston on the same day. Up at 5:00 AM to catch the 5:45 AM Orange Line to Metro Center, then transferring to Union Station. I toured the Station, enjoyed the Great Hall, and saw the Capitol out the front doors. For breakfast I got a roast beef sandwich on a baguette, and orange juice, at "Au Bon Pain", located near Amtrak's "Gate A". Lunch on the train was my usual hot dog and Pepsi.
I caught the 7:25 AM Regional, arriving in Boston at 3:15 PM. The weather was overcast with intermittent light rain, but good visibility at ground level. Using detailed maps of the route, I followed the trip closely, identifying the significant features and landmarks along the way. In particular, I appreciated more of New York City than on previous trips, having studied the layout of things in better detail.
The coast of Connecticut is one of the scenic highlights of the trip... many harbours and estuaries with forest and wetlands, and views of islands and Long Island Sound beyond. Everything is lush and green for Springtime. We passed a couple of flocks of wild Turkeys, and some attractive small beaches. We crossed Massachusetts at top speed, about 125 mph.
On arrival, I bought a day-pass for the MBTA. I tried out the new Silver-Line Bus service to Logan Airport... what a fraud! They bill it as a high-speed direct route with its own tunnel under the Harbour. In fact, it just clunks along in ordinary traffic. Of the one-hour round trip, a grand total of 150 seconds each way (by actual count) was spent in the special tunnel under South Station. More enjoyable was the Red Line to Ashmont, where I rode the "Mattapan High-Speed Trolley", a classic old-fashioned "PCC" Streetcar on a scenic route through a Cemetery, past the wetlands of the Neponset River, and on a private right-of-way between backyards and a small forest preserve. The trip is no longer free, but is covered by the day-pass.
Returning to Park Street, I took the Green Line, D-Riverside to the end of the line and back, through outlying historic areas including a forest preserve and a golf course. It was still daylight when I returned downtown to check in to my hotel... the Millner at 78 Charles St. I had an outstanding dinner at the nearby "Legal Seafoods" Restaurant... a bowl of New England Clam Chowder, with rolls and butter, and "Blackened Raw Tuna Sashimi", pan-seared and sliced with sesame-chili vinaigrette, seaweed salad and wasabi (plus pickled ginger in abundance!). A bargain for only $20! The hotel was comfortable, European-style with small rooms in an older building (with non-level floors). We were close enough to South Station to hear the Train Whistles!
Day 3 was a successful exploration of New England. After a good Continental Breakfast at the Hotel, I walked to the Boston Common and caught the Green Line at Boylston, riding first to Lechmere (end of the line), then back to North Station. There I caught the 7:37 AM Train for Rockport, on Cape Ann just past Gloucester. The route was particularly beautiful beginning just past Salem. There are small towns with rock-lined harbours and lovely New England architecture, plus extensive forests and occasional views of rocky islands and lighthouses offshore.
At Rockport, I took a walking-tour of the Town, heading down Broadway through the Town Center to the Harbour. I walked out on the stone pier to see "Motif #1", a much-photographed red fishing-shack. http://www.rockportusa.com/motifone/art/motif_021102.jpg Then I walked out to the tip of Bearskin Neck (founded 1695), a district filled with shops for art and pottery and fresh strudel, plus wonderful smells from the candy shop. I could see open sea clear to the horizon, and a light house out on the Cape. Lobster is available for 40% of Boston prices. I climbed down to a beach inside the Harbour, walking on the rocks among the brown seaweed. I touched the water, and collected a Mussel Shell to take home.
I returned along Sandy Bay and Kings Street. The entire town is a New England Classic, and there are plenty of Motels, Inns, and B&B's for visitors, plus a beautiful Mill-Brook Park with a flowing stream for several blocks. Back at the Station, I got a Boston Kreme Donut (with chocolate frosting) and heard my train approaching. I left on the 10:00 AM Train, riding as far as Beverly ($3 fare). There I got off at 11:00 AM and had a delicious late Breakfast at Borah's Corner Grocery and Luncheonette. I walked up Broadway past some beautiful historic homes, and came to the commercial district at the corner of Cabot and Abbot. I passed the Town Hall and several churches, with cemeteries from the 1700's. I followed Atlantic Ave to the Atlantic Ocean, and found my way down the Seawall onto the beach at low tide to touch the water once again. There were beautiful waterfront estates, rocks and beaches and sea-islands, with views of Salem and Marblehead just across the water.
I returned along Thorndike St past classic homes with lovely gardens... azaleas, rhododendrons, and fragrant lilac were all in bloom. One house bore the following plaque: "On this site in 1897... Nothing Happened". Back at the town center, a lady was selling hot-dogs and sauerkraut on the sidewalk, but it looked like business was pretty slow. The Beverly Depot is now a Restaurant and Saloon, specializing in "Bridal and Baby Showers".
I caught the 11:53 AM Train to Newburyport (my special "Bonus Train" for the day, again with a $3 fare). We passed through a series of beautiful small towns, then between Ipswich and Rowley came to extensive marshlands with deep-cut tidal channels (reminding me that this is in fact the other end of the famous "Bay of Fundy" tidal system). At Newburyport, I walked north towards the Town Centre. There were fine houses, an old cemetery, and a granite quarry. I made it as far as "Bartlett Mall" (a green common with a pond), and returned through the Old Hill Burying Ground ("with over fifty soldiers and sailors of the Revolution"). I got back in time for the 1:07 return train (same trainset), this time riding all the way to Boston using the other half of my eight-zone round-trip ticket.
At one grade crossing, the sign said "Do Not Cross Tracks when Gates are Down". Good idea, I guess that's what the Gates are for. They might as well post another reminder to say, "Read This Sign before Proceeding". Back in Town, I rode the Orange Line to the Blue Line, and took that to Bowdoin (end of the line), then to Aquarium, where I caught the 3:00 PM Ferry from Long's Wharf to the Charlestown Navy Yard (home of Old Ironsides). The Inner-Harbour Ferry is covered by the MBTA Day Pass. Back by 3:30 after fine views along the Waterfront. I boarded the Blue Line again (in the very last minute of validity for my 24-hour Pass), riding to the end of the line at Wonderland (4:05 PM), where I walked at Revere Beach... Atlantic Surf and open horizon, being completely outside of Boston Harbour.
Then I took the Orange Line north through Malden Center to Oak Grove (new since my last trip there), and out to Forest Hill (also new for me, replacing an ancient elevated railway that was over-due to be torn down). From Back Bay to Forest Hill, the Orange Line follows right alongside Amtrak's North-East Corridor, sharing the same trench through town.
Returning to my hotel, I switched to Sandals and at 6:30 PM began the Freedom Trail Walk, from the Statehouse to the Charlestown Bridge. I passed the Frog Pond in the Boston Common (a Wading Pool in Summer and a Skating Rink in Winter), and the grave of Sam Adams. The Old City Hall is now occupied by Ruth's Chris Steak House. I enjoyed the Old State House (with its Lion-and-Unicorn emblem), Faneuil Hall and the colorful Quincy Market.
This was Graduation Night for many colleges, and everybody was enjoying the night out together, dressed in their finest. I had an excellent Greek Combination Plate for dinner in the Quincy Market, then continued on to the North End (the old Italian neighborhood). Everything is bustling and vibrant, with crowds enjoying the evening, trees sparkling with lights, and more restaurants and pubs than ever before. The "Big Dig" project is now complete, replacing an unsightly and divisive elevated freeway with a fresh stretch of parkland. Beyond the Old North Church, I reached the Waterfront (and a pier with good views of the Harbour), then followed the shore to North Station, where I caught the Green Line back to my hotel in the "Theatre District", getting back just after 9:00 PM.
Day 4 was to reach the Northern and Eastern extremes of the Trip. Up at 7:00 AM with Breakfast in the Hotel, I rode to North Station with time to spare and explored the near-by areas of the waterfront on foot, seeing Old Ironsides and the Coast Guard Station, and Logan Airport across the way. I crossed the Charles River atop a set of three locks for boat traffic (the sign says, don't try this when the locks are open, which is probably a good idea). On the Charlestown side, I saw the new Paul Revere Park and the "Constitution Marina", with great views of Downtown Boston.
At 8:50 I caught the Down-Easter Train to Portland, Maine. We crossed the beautiful Merrimack River at Haverill, then entered wild forested country. We saw the University of New Hampshire at Durham, and lovely Rivers at Exeter and Dover. At Saco there was a pair of artificial waterfalls left over from mill days, with tidal flats below the falls. At Old Orchard Beach, we could see the Ocean (briefly). There was lots of resort lodging, mini-golf, an Amusement Park (much nicer than the ones at Virginia Beach), the Beach itself, and a Pier. Behind the town is a salt marsh, which we crossed to enter Portland via industrial districts and the Guilford (Pan-Am RR) Yards. Just over the Inner Harbor (near the Airport), we arrived at the Amtrak Station. Consist: engine at each end; 3 coach cars plus cafe car to the rear.
My hotel (Clarion Airport) was right behind the Station, thanks to a connecting shortcut through the Parking Lots. After checking in, the Hotel Van took me to the Casco Bay Ferries on the historic Waterfront downtown. I was in time for the 12:15 run to Peak's Island (my special "Bonus Ferry" for the day), which was very lovely through light fog. We passed an old Fort on its own island with extensive shoals, and "House Island" which contains three houses, two forts (on opposite sides), and some old military tunnels. Our load was seven cars, lots of bikes, and miscellaneous freight delivered by forklift. At Peak's Island, I walked down to the beach, touched the water, then out onto a pier with a floating dock, and back in time for the return trip. The return load was one truck, three cars, and the forklift.
Between ferries, there was time for lunch at the "Portland Lobster Company", a fish-shack kind of place on the colorful waterfront. I had their one-pound Lobster Dinner (with butter, lemon, fries, and coleslaw) plus an interesting local wild-blueberry-flavoured Wheat Ale. They gave out little lobster-shaped pagers to notify you when your order is ready to pick up... they buzz and the red lights flash. It turns out that "they cannot serve alcohol", so to pick up the Ale you have to go outdoors onto the dock and walk to the Bar next door where they fill the order. Then the sign says "No Alcoholic Beverages Beyond This Point", so you have to stay outside and eat in the fog, on picnic tables with a partial tent for shelter and some heaters with limited effectiveness. But the meal was delicious, and a lot of fun.
Then back to the Ferry Terminal for the main event of the day: the 2:45 PM Mail-Boat Run. The sign says, "Carry-on Freight Limited to Groceries and Personal Items Only, Carts Must Not Be Over-Loaded". The boat had its own carts for light freight (checked items), and a crane for occasional heavier cargo. There would be room for a small truck on the rear platform. And they actually do carry the U.S. Mail, coming and going. We passed the Fort again, this time rising directly out of the water at high tide. The boat was filled with locals and their families, plus a few families just out for the cruise.
I was able to set foot on each Island where we stopped... Little Diamond, Great Diamond, Long Island, Cliff Island (the eastern-most point on my Trip), and Great Chebeague Island (my northern-most point) with its beautiful sheltered bay. We saw Lobster Boats anchored in the cove, and others at work in open water. We passed several other islands along the way, some uninhabited and others just without Ferry Service. The houses were all in classic New England style. Long Island uses cars, and some of the smaller islands use Golf Carts. Returning to Long Island, a lot of people got on board heading for the Mainland. We approached the two Diamond Islands again,but did not dock because nobody appeared on the pier when the whistle sounded.
We got back to Portland at 5:15 PM, now with thick fog. I found my way on foot back to the hotel through historic and colorful residential neighborhoods and along the shores of the Inner Harbour. I got there just in time, as a heavy rain set in and continued all night. I enjoyed Dinner in the Hotel, with home-baked deep-fried Fish and Chips with Tartar sauce and real Malt Vinegar for the Chips, also Coleslaw and Coffee. Ready to begin the Homeward Stretch in the Morning!
Day 1 began with Sunrise over the Atlantic Ocean. I walked along the Boardwalk at Virginia Beach to the Fishing Pier, and returned through the Amusement Park. The town is filled with bars and restaurants and tattoo-and-piercing parlours, and places selling "exotic knives". Signs along the street advise "no swearing". Pretty peaceful this early in the morning, however.
I caught the 7:00 AM Amtrak Bus right behind my hotel. The streets heading west are named Atlantic, Pacific, Baltic, and Mediterranean. Back through Norfolk and Portsmouth, with long bridges and a couple of tunnels. Groups of fighter jets were seen and heard patrolling the skies around the port complex. At the Station in Newport News, we saw the Train backing in from the yards: 1 engine, and 8 single-level cars. The first was "Business Class", then 2 coach, then cafe, then 4 coach.
Retracing yesterday's scenic run from Washington, the views of downtown Richmond and the James River turned out to be better in this direction. In Ashland I noted the small business district and historic depot (now a visitor's center) with its clock standing outside. The weather was sunny and clear, giving great views of the wetlands along the Potomac River. At Lorton I saw the Auto Train in its depot. And just before crossing the Potomac at Alexandria, I caught a glimpse of the Pentagon. Planes landing at the Reagan National Airport flew right over us on the bridge. We arrived at 1:25 PM, and I saw the Capitol Limited pulling in to the Station.
Breakfast on the Train was a hot dog and Pepsi. Lunch in the Food Court at Union Station was at the "Rice Bowl" Chinese place... beef with broccoli over combination rice and noodles, and a Sprite... delicious!
I bought an all-day pass for the Metro (the third machine finally agreed to accept my cash transaction), and rode the Red Line to Silver Spring and Glenmont. We passed the yards for VRE, MARC, and the Metro, and followed the tracks for the Capitol Limited as far as Silver Spring. Then I took the Orange Line to East Falls Church, Virginia (the first station after the line emerges from underground and begins to run down the middle of a freeway). My Econolodge Motel was conveniently but obscurely located just a block away. This involved going up stairs from the station's parking lot, crossing the Bike Path, following a residential street, turning on a dead end, rejoining the Bike Path next to the Freeway, and walking across a construction site. One house along the way had a front yard grown dramatically wild (like a little piece of prairie), with a sign declaring that it was a "certified wildlife habitat" (so there!).
Dropping off my luggage, I headed straight back downtown, exiting at "Federal Triangle". I found my way to the Smithsonian's Natural History Museum by 4:40 PM, and was delighted to see that they would stay open until 7:30 PM. I enjoyed the Gemstone and Mineral exhibit in some detail, then took a quick look at everything else on display. For souvenirs, I picked up a beautifully illustrated book about the Gemstone Collection, and a small pearly fossil Ammonite from Madagascar (Gondwanaland). The Dinosaur exhibit was also a classic!
Then I walked along the Mall, "America's Front Yard". There were lots of folks out walking, running, and playing team sports. I could hear the Trains on the near-by tracks just to the south. There were a couple of flashy motorcades with police escorts on motorcycles. I walked to the base of the Washington Monument, with views of the Capitol, the Lincoln Monument, and the White House. At Smithsonian Station, I caught the Metro, Blue Line to Red Line to Rockville and Shady Grove, again seeing the tracks for the Capitol Limited. Then the Yellow Line, crossing the Potomac for that classic view on a sparkling fresh night.
At Pentagon Station I transferred to the Blue Line to Franconia-Springfield (end of the line). On return, there were dramatic but brief views of the Capitol from the Reagan Airport. Transferring to the Orange Line, the train was absolutely packed with Hockey Fans in their bright red shirts. Very sorrowful, as their team had just lost. The freeway to Falls Church was jammed as well, including lots of Hockey Fans who were honking at the Fans on the Train. Also on board were Police in a wide variety of uniforms, in town for a national convention of Police Officers. Returning to the Motel at 10:30 PM, it turned out there was no chance for dinner as the "nearby" restaurants were not within walking distance.
Day 2 was the actual North-East Corridor. I ended up riding the Subways in Rush Hour, both in Washington and in Boston on the same day. Up at 5:00 AM to catch the 5:45 AM Orange Line to Metro Center, then transferring to Union Station. I toured the Station, enjoyed the Great Hall, and saw the Capitol out the front doors. For breakfast I got a roast beef sandwich on a baguette, and orange juice, at "Au Bon Pain", located near Amtrak's "Gate A". Lunch on the train was my usual hot dog and Pepsi.
I caught the 7:25 AM Regional, arriving in Boston at 3:15 PM. The weather was overcast with intermittent light rain, but good visibility at ground level. Using detailed maps of the route, I followed the trip closely, identifying the significant features and landmarks along the way. In particular, I appreciated more of New York City than on previous trips, having studied the layout of things in better detail.
The coast of Connecticut is one of the scenic highlights of the trip... many harbours and estuaries with forest and wetlands, and views of islands and Long Island Sound beyond. Everything is lush and green for Springtime. We passed a couple of flocks of wild Turkeys, and some attractive small beaches. We crossed Massachusetts at top speed, about 125 mph.
On arrival, I bought a day-pass for the MBTA. I tried out the new Silver-Line Bus service to Logan Airport... what a fraud! They bill it as a high-speed direct route with its own tunnel under the Harbour. In fact, it just clunks along in ordinary traffic. Of the one-hour round trip, a grand total of 150 seconds each way (by actual count) was spent in the special tunnel under South Station. More enjoyable was the Red Line to Ashmont, where I rode the "Mattapan High-Speed Trolley", a classic old-fashioned "PCC" Streetcar on a scenic route through a Cemetery, past the wetlands of the Neponset River, and on a private right-of-way between backyards and a small forest preserve. The trip is no longer free, but is covered by the day-pass.
Returning to Park Street, I took the Green Line, D-Riverside to the end of the line and back, through outlying historic areas including a forest preserve and a golf course. It was still daylight when I returned downtown to check in to my hotel... the Millner at 78 Charles St. I had an outstanding dinner at the nearby "Legal Seafoods" Restaurant... a bowl of New England Clam Chowder, with rolls and butter, and "Blackened Raw Tuna Sashimi", pan-seared and sliced with sesame-chili vinaigrette, seaweed salad and wasabi (plus pickled ginger in abundance!). A bargain for only $20! The hotel was comfortable, European-style with small rooms in an older building (with non-level floors). We were close enough to South Station to hear the Train Whistles!
Day 3 was a successful exploration of New England. After a good Continental Breakfast at the Hotel, I walked to the Boston Common and caught the Green Line at Boylston, riding first to Lechmere (end of the line), then back to North Station. There I caught the 7:37 AM Train for Rockport, on Cape Ann just past Gloucester. The route was particularly beautiful beginning just past Salem. There are small towns with rock-lined harbours and lovely New England architecture, plus extensive forests and occasional views of rocky islands and lighthouses offshore.
At Rockport, I took a walking-tour of the Town, heading down Broadway through the Town Center to the Harbour. I walked out on the stone pier to see "Motif #1", a much-photographed red fishing-shack. http://www.rockportusa.com/motifone/art/motif_021102.jpg Then I walked out to the tip of Bearskin Neck (founded 1695), a district filled with shops for art and pottery and fresh strudel, plus wonderful smells from the candy shop. I could see open sea clear to the horizon, and a light house out on the Cape. Lobster is available for 40% of Boston prices. I climbed down to a beach inside the Harbour, walking on the rocks among the brown seaweed. I touched the water, and collected a Mussel Shell to take home.
I returned along Sandy Bay and Kings Street. The entire town is a New England Classic, and there are plenty of Motels, Inns, and B&B's for visitors, plus a beautiful Mill-Brook Park with a flowing stream for several blocks. Back at the Station, I got a Boston Kreme Donut (with chocolate frosting) and heard my train approaching. I left on the 10:00 AM Train, riding as far as Beverly ($3 fare). There I got off at 11:00 AM and had a delicious late Breakfast at Borah's Corner Grocery and Luncheonette. I walked up Broadway past some beautiful historic homes, and came to the commercial district at the corner of Cabot and Abbot. I passed the Town Hall and several churches, with cemeteries from the 1700's. I followed Atlantic Ave to the Atlantic Ocean, and found my way down the Seawall onto the beach at low tide to touch the water once again. There were beautiful waterfront estates, rocks and beaches and sea-islands, with views of Salem and Marblehead just across the water.
I returned along Thorndike St past classic homes with lovely gardens... azaleas, rhododendrons, and fragrant lilac were all in bloom. One house bore the following plaque: "On this site in 1897... Nothing Happened". Back at the town center, a lady was selling hot-dogs and sauerkraut on the sidewalk, but it looked like business was pretty slow. The Beverly Depot is now a Restaurant and Saloon, specializing in "Bridal and Baby Showers".
I caught the 11:53 AM Train to Newburyport (my special "Bonus Train" for the day, again with a $3 fare). We passed through a series of beautiful small towns, then between Ipswich and Rowley came to extensive marshlands with deep-cut tidal channels (reminding me that this is in fact the other end of the famous "Bay of Fundy" tidal system). At Newburyport, I walked north towards the Town Centre. There were fine houses, an old cemetery, and a granite quarry. I made it as far as "Bartlett Mall" (a green common with a pond), and returned through the Old Hill Burying Ground ("with over fifty soldiers and sailors of the Revolution"). I got back in time for the 1:07 return train (same trainset), this time riding all the way to Boston using the other half of my eight-zone round-trip ticket.
At one grade crossing, the sign said "Do Not Cross Tracks when Gates are Down". Good idea, I guess that's what the Gates are for. They might as well post another reminder to say, "Read This Sign before Proceeding". Back in Town, I rode the Orange Line to the Blue Line, and took that to Bowdoin (end of the line), then to Aquarium, where I caught the 3:00 PM Ferry from Long's Wharf to the Charlestown Navy Yard (home of Old Ironsides). The Inner-Harbour Ferry is covered by the MBTA Day Pass. Back by 3:30 after fine views along the Waterfront. I boarded the Blue Line again (in the very last minute of validity for my 24-hour Pass), riding to the end of the line at Wonderland (4:05 PM), where I walked at Revere Beach... Atlantic Surf and open horizon, being completely outside of Boston Harbour.
Then I took the Orange Line north through Malden Center to Oak Grove (new since my last trip there), and out to Forest Hill (also new for me, replacing an ancient elevated railway that was over-due to be torn down). From Back Bay to Forest Hill, the Orange Line follows right alongside Amtrak's North-East Corridor, sharing the same trench through town.
Returning to my hotel, I switched to Sandals and at 6:30 PM began the Freedom Trail Walk, from the Statehouse to the Charlestown Bridge. I passed the Frog Pond in the Boston Common (a Wading Pool in Summer and a Skating Rink in Winter), and the grave of Sam Adams. The Old City Hall is now occupied by Ruth's Chris Steak House. I enjoyed the Old State House (with its Lion-and-Unicorn emblem), Faneuil Hall and the colorful Quincy Market.
This was Graduation Night for many colleges, and everybody was enjoying the night out together, dressed in their finest. I had an excellent Greek Combination Plate for dinner in the Quincy Market, then continued on to the North End (the old Italian neighborhood). Everything is bustling and vibrant, with crowds enjoying the evening, trees sparkling with lights, and more restaurants and pubs than ever before. The "Big Dig" project is now complete, replacing an unsightly and divisive elevated freeway with a fresh stretch of parkland. Beyond the Old North Church, I reached the Waterfront (and a pier with good views of the Harbour), then followed the shore to North Station, where I caught the Green Line back to my hotel in the "Theatre District", getting back just after 9:00 PM.
Day 4 was to reach the Northern and Eastern extremes of the Trip. Up at 7:00 AM with Breakfast in the Hotel, I rode to North Station with time to spare and explored the near-by areas of the waterfront on foot, seeing Old Ironsides and the Coast Guard Station, and Logan Airport across the way. I crossed the Charles River atop a set of three locks for boat traffic (the sign says, don't try this when the locks are open, which is probably a good idea). On the Charlestown side, I saw the new Paul Revere Park and the "Constitution Marina", with great views of Downtown Boston.
At 8:50 I caught the Down-Easter Train to Portland, Maine. We crossed the beautiful Merrimack River at Haverill, then entered wild forested country. We saw the University of New Hampshire at Durham, and lovely Rivers at Exeter and Dover. At Saco there was a pair of artificial waterfalls left over from mill days, with tidal flats below the falls. At Old Orchard Beach, we could see the Ocean (briefly). There was lots of resort lodging, mini-golf, an Amusement Park (much nicer than the ones at Virginia Beach), the Beach itself, and a Pier. Behind the town is a salt marsh, which we crossed to enter Portland via industrial districts and the Guilford (Pan-Am RR) Yards. Just over the Inner Harbor (near the Airport), we arrived at the Amtrak Station. Consist: engine at each end; 3 coach cars plus cafe car to the rear.
My hotel (Clarion Airport) was right behind the Station, thanks to a connecting shortcut through the Parking Lots. After checking in, the Hotel Van took me to the Casco Bay Ferries on the historic Waterfront downtown. I was in time for the 12:15 run to Peak's Island (my special "Bonus Ferry" for the day), which was very lovely through light fog. We passed an old Fort on its own island with extensive shoals, and "House Island" which contains three houses, two forts (on opposite sides), and some old military tunnels. Our load was seven cars, lots of bikes, and miscellaneous freight delivered by forklift. At Peak's Island, I walked down to the beach, touched the water, then out onto a pier with a floating dock, and back in time for the return trip. The return load was one truck, three cars, and the forklift.
Between ferries, there was time for lunch at the "Portland Lobster Company", a fish-shack kind of place on the colorful waterfront. I had their one-pound Lobster Dinner (with butter, lemon, fries, and coleslaw) plus an interesting local wild-blueberry-flavoured Wheat Ale. They gave out little lobster-shaped pagers to notify you when your order is ready to pick up... they buzz and the red lights flash. It turns out that "they cannot serve alcohol", so to pick up the Ale you have to go outdoors onto the dock and walk to the Bar next door where they fill the order. Then the sign says "No Alcoholic Beverages Beyond This Point", so you have to stay outside and eat in the fog, on picnic tables with a partial tent for shelter and some heaters with limited effectiveness. But the meal was delicious, and a lot of fun.
Then back to the Ferry Terminal for the main event of the day: the 2:45 PM Mail-Boat Run. The sign says, "Carry-on Freight Limited to Groceries and Personal Items Only, Carts Must Not Be Over-Loaded". The boat had its own carts for light freight (checked items), and a crane for occasional heavier cargo. There would be room for a small truck on the rear platform. And they actually do carry the U.S. Mail, coming and going. We passed the Fort again, this time rising directly out of the water at high tide. The boat was filled with locals and their families, plus a few families just out for the cruise.
I was able to set foot on each Island where we stopped... Little Diamond, Great Diamond, Long Island, Cliff Island (the eastern-most point on my Trip), and Great Chebeague Island (my northern-most point) with its beautiful sheltered bay. We saw Lobster Boats anchored in the cove, and others at work in open water. We passed several other islands along the way, some uninhabited and others just without Ferry Service. The houses were all in classic New England style. Long Island uses cars, and some of the smaller islands use Golf Carts. Returning to Long Island, a lot of people got on board heading for the Mainland. We approached the two Diamond Islands again,but did not dock because nobody appeared on the pier when the whistle sounded.
We got back to Portland at 5:15 PM, now with thick fog. I found my way on foot back to the hotel through historic and colorful residential neighborhoods and along the shores of the Inner Harbour. I got there just in time, as a heavy rain set in and continued all night. I enjoyed Dinner in the Hotel, with home-baked deep-fried Fish and Chips with Tartar sauce and real Malt Vinegar for the Chips, also Coleslaw and Coffee. Ready to begin the Homeward Stretch in the Morning!
